MartyL

I just found the alcohol in both the 89 and the 98 to be too much in this last tasting. They just seemed hot and overly fruity. The 90 is indeed a funky wine, but I find it deliciously so. I had it once last year with a very gamey lamb dish and it was a perfect match. Is that so? I didn't know Weygandt batted from that side of the plate. Anyway, it is unbelievable, but what do you expect the guy to do---admit that his tastes are completely out of synch with the Burg-drinking world and that Burg-drinkers don't take him seriously? It doesn't help when he's got troops full of followers who have no idea what the discussion is about but are ready to chime in any time with a personal attack against anyone who disagrees with him. Did you see the last CA issue of the Wine Advocate? Scan the pages and you'll see how many times a phrase like "DRC-like aromatics" or "dead-ringer for an Echezeaux" comes up when talking about Pinots from producers like Martinelli and Peter Michael. And this is in a lousy vintage! Seems clear to me anyway that the publication must have a pretty peculiar idea of what Echezeaux should taste like if they can print comments like that. I considered posting that point over there on eRP but I have no desire to mix it up with people and get involved in hostile exchanges there, especially about a point so obvious that it really needs no repeating.

I agree with Mike about the 3 wines from the 70s at the Beaucastel vertical. They didn't show that great, but it is hard to say whether they were good bottles. I personally found that the wines from the eighties (and the 1990) were the ones that were most "typical" of Beaucastel. All of those wines had that strong Mourvedre funk that I find so appealing and unique about this producer. In contrast, as Mike says above, all of the post-94 wines were made in a different style. They weren't bad at all (save for the awful 97), but they did seem a bit sanitized and plain-Jane-ish to my taste after drinking all of the older ones. As for older Rhones, I don't have nearly as much experience with them as I'd like, and virtually none with wines that are older than 20 years old. Still, in my limited experience, in a good vintage, the wines are so attactive and perfectly mature (and typical too) in their teens that it is hard to see a reason to cellar them much longer. In the last year I've had a couple of stunning 85 Cornas's and a few experiences with Chave from 83 and 85 that bear this point out. It would be interesting to test your theory on the 78 Chave, but the low-end of Acker's estimated selling price for a bottle is $350.

Sorry Steve, although we are completely on the same page when it comes to 93 Burgundies , I disagree with you on the Beaus. I hear the 78 is a pretty nice tipple if you can find a good bottle. I also like the 83, 85 and 90 a lot. In fact, I strongly prefer the 90 to the 89, which I find to be too hot and over-fruited. The 2000 tastes like an Aussie grenache to me at this point---a total waste to drink now, but will most likely be delicious with time. I wonder what the 98 will be like with age. I have some concern that it will be more like the 89 than the 90, but I'm still glad to have some put away. People who don't like barnyardy or bretty aromatics in their wines would do well to stick to the vintages Steve lists and avoid the ones I mention above.

Jean-Paul Hevin is a Parisian chocolatier who has three shops. Addresses may be found at the following link: JP Hevin webpage Many of Hevin's chocolates and other desserts include spicy, tart or savory flavors, which gives them a strong personality. His truffles are the best I've had, with perfect balance between the ganache and couverture, and incredible purity of flavor. He doesn't offer the kind of variety of baked desserts that one would find in a full-blown patisserie, but I had a "tarte aux quatre fruits rouge" there that was pretty fantastic.

Thanks for this post, Vivremanger. Have you been to any of JP Hevin's shops? I think he may be the new Herme.

Just wanted to interject in this thread a Happy Hanukah greeting from some of our Dear Israeli Brethren. Make sure your volume is on but not too loud and then click on one candle at a time. http://www.kings.co.il/newsletter/hanuka/h...py_hanukah.html And now, back to your regularly scheduled programming...

I find that with most people, as they gain more tasting experience, they become increasingly receptive to nuance and complexity and tend to enjoy and appreciate higher-end wines (and lower-end wines too) more than they did as novices. So while an $80-$100 bottle of Chave Hermitage may not mean much to a person who is just starting out in his or her wine tasting experience, and will seem at that point to be a rip-off, after a while, that same person may view it it as a bargain relative to the experience it delivers.

Just to do some more shilling for Gilles Robin---just got an e-mail from the Burgundy Wine Company. They have the 2000 Gilles Robin Crozes Hermitage Cuvee Alberic Bouvee on sale through the end of the month for $12.99. I have not had the 2000 vintage of this wine, and in general, 2000 is not as strong or age-worthy a vintage in the N. Rhone as 1999, but this wine was so good in 99 that the 2000 was a no-brainer buy for me, especially at this price. The 99, which is available around town for $16-$20, is a funky, meaty, bloody, rustic Northern Rhone Syrah with a core of violet fruit and enough acidity to marry well with food. I'd rather have a bottle of it than a lifetime supply of Guigal CDP, but than again I'd also rather watch Grand Illusion than Howard the Duck. I guess there's no accounting for taste...

Thanks for the bit of flattery above, Steve. For me there are two points to keep in mind when looking at WS's list, both of which have already been made by many of the posters in this thread: 1. When WS's top-hundred list is consistently loaded with wines by the likes of Banfi and Guigal and mass-produced California Cabs and Merlots of middling quality and prices that are high relative to the quality offered, one has to question whether the list was developed with some attention to potential advertising revenue for the magazine. 2. While I understand that "widespread availability" is a factor that WS has decided to take into account in constructing its list, my own view is that the best "value" wines (i.e. those in the $10-$20 price range, and often in the $20-$40 range as well) are usually made by smaller producers using low-tech non-interventionist (dare I say artisinal?) methods. If WS is going to focus on mass-produced industrial wines, then there is likely to be little on their list of interest to people who are looking for quality or bang for the buck. I should add that the "widespread availability" issue is the reason why I find so much U.S. wine journalism to be useless. The editors are only interested in pieces that will draw advertisers with big budgets. The feature articles therefore usually have to focus on the big industrial producers whose wines are available in every market. The sad thing is, Guigal CDP, which isn't really very good IMHO, is going to fly off the shelves if it hasn't already, and you can still find the terrific 98 Fortia around for $25. I almost didn't mention the 99 Gilles Robin Crozes Hermitage Cuvee Alberich Bouvee ($16) for fear of turning too many people on to a ridiculously fantastic wine that I want to buy many cases more of, but hey, why not? While I'm at it, consider the following: Brun Beaujolais (blanc or rouge) and Pepiere Muscadet ($9) Loire Cab Francs from Olga Raffault and Catherine & Pierre Breton ($12-$20) Huet's 98 demi-Sec (about $18) A whole host of German Rieslings (especially the recently released 2001s), from Selbach-Oster, Strub and Leitz ($10-$20) to the pricey(!) Christoffel and Donnhoff ($20-$35). You probably won't find these wines at your local Winn-Dixie, but on the other hand, they are readily available at numerous wine shops that have internet sites and ship nationwide.

I'm off to the in-laws for Turkey Day, and I'll be toting a number of things: A bottle of JJ Christoffel's 2001 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Kabinet, A couple of 2001 German Spatleses to be determined later (Strub, or, if I'm feeling a little lavish, Donnhoff or Schaefer) A bottle of Gilles Robin's 1999 Crozes Hermitage "Cuvee Alberich Bouvee," A bottle of Michel Ogier's 1998 "La Rosine," A bottle of Brun's 2000 Beaujolais "l'Ancien" (good idea, Steve), and a partridge in a pear tree. My thoughts are that the Spatelesen (and the Christoffel Kabinet, which is really more like a Spatlese in this vintage) should pair well with the sweet accompaniments like the cranberry sauce and sweet potatoes. They also will probably appeal to the people at the table who generally aren't crazy about dry table wines. I hope the Robin and Ogier will be a nice comparison of Northern Rhone Syrahs. I've only had them separately and not side by side, but both come from lesser appelations right on the cusp of the great ones, and they are both rustic wines that show off the gamey aromatics typical of the region. I hope they'll match well with the rich giblet gravy. The Brun is what I like to think of as the thinking man's Beaujolais. Its yummy and interesting and should appeal to wine novices and geeks alike. It also costs about $8! I picked up many of these wines on a recent (and my first) visit to PJ Wines in upper Manhattan (see link below). They have an excellent selection of wines under $20 (all of the wines listed above are in that category) and are well worth a visit. Note that their web inventory may not be up to date. Also, the sales help on the floor is not always that great. Best to know what you are looking for or browse carefully and help yourself. http://www.pjwine.com/

Hey Steve, thanks for reading carefully. Note also that I also only said it was my favorite "Tuscan" olive oil. I probably buy a bottle of the Volpaia twice a year. It is a very robustly flavored and aromatic olive oil that I would not want to use every day, but it is what I reach for when I want to really show off the flavor of the olive oil. It has a sentimental value for me and my wife because we stayed at a beautuful B&B near there (see link) and visited the estate. Other times I experiment. In fact, my most recent olive oil purchase (unopened still) was a bottle of Castello di Ama. I like their Chianti an awful lot so I figured their oil would be interesting . Found it at D&D, by the way, as I was looking for my Volpaia. It was pricey, but thankfully not approaching Casuccia territory. I live a few blocks away from that Oliviers & Co. store. I went in once or twice and sampled a few things. My sense is Bux's chain-related fears about them are spot on, although they do get a lot of good press from Patricia Wells (not that that means anything). I found it somewhat aggravating to find their outlets (and L'Occitaine too) on every other corner in Provence. La Locanda (B&B in Chianti)

I only stop in at Dean & Deluca if I happen to be in the neighborhood. As others have said, the cheeses can be hit or miss, depending on what is ripe and how knowledgeable and good natured the person who helps you is. Just recently, I picked up some beautiful Brie de Meaux there that tasted remarkably fresh and hay-like. I could have sworn it wasn't aged 60 days. The other thing I always pick up at D&D is my favorite Tuscan Olive Oil: Castello di Volpaia. I haven't seen it anywhere else in the city. If anyone knows a more economical source, please let me know.

Sorry all, but unfortunately I have to cancel. The irony is that it isn't work obligations that are the problem. We signed up a deal on Friday that should have freed me up for a few days. Alas, too many all-nighters at the office last week have left me with a depleted immune system and a fever. Sorry for the public whine too. My apologies to Nina and the other attendees and I hope to meet you all at some future gathering.

Great post Steve. The best chocolate truffles I've had recently were at Jean-Paul Hevin's place in Paris. The couverture was thin, lustrous and bitter, and the flavored ganache fillings (in particular the earl-grey tea) were intensely flavorful. The great thing about Hevin's truffles is that the couverture is so intense that it takes a few seconds after you bite into the truffle for the flavor of the ganache to emerge---then, you just get this wallop of the ganache flavor. I remember trying my first one on my way to the Rodin museum nearby on foot. It stopped me in my tracks. Maybe it was just the Paris effect (everything seems to taste better in Paris), but boy was it good.

I'm still planning to make it, although unpredictable client demands may yet wreak havoc with my plans. I'll bring some German Riesling and some bubbly too. Looking forward to it.

Sorry to chime in late. Either of those dates looks promising for me at this point, but I won't be sure I can make it until the last minute. If you can hold a spot for me, great, but if there is a space limitation, people who can commit in advance should get priority over me. Thanks for organizing, Nina.

I'm pretty sure Chez Georges is open late. The only trouble is that by that hour it will be pretty smoky in there.

Jill and I ate there tonight. Everything was delicious and the portions generous. The sides deserve special mention (especially the garlicky roasted mushrooms and creamy potato gratin). Mitchell London came over and was very gracious. We chatted a bit about wine (he likes Burgundy). Later he brought over some chocolate cake and lemon meringue pie for us. Not sure their BYO days will last long, as the waiter told us they are applying for a liquor license.

Lizziee, thanks for another terrific review. Members should note that Le Bateau Ivre is located in a beautiful Relais & Chateaux hotel called Ombremont. It is a picture-perfect place to stay in Savoie.

I spent an hour or so at Vinexpo on Tuesday. Aisles and aisles of mass-produced industrial supermarket wine, heavy on Chilean Merlot and Spanish quaffers. I found very little to be of interest. Frankly, the whole event was a depressing reminder of how much of the wine biz is devoted to selling vast quantities of soulless beverages. Unfortunately I was too busy at work yesterday to make it back for the 2000 Bordeaux tasting, which I think would have been worthwhile. If anyone attended, I'd be curious to hear what shone and what didn't. Others tell me that Gruard Larose and Lynch Bages were standouts and that Pichon Lalande was a big disappointment.

Today's NY Times reports that Mitchell London's upstairs cafe at Fairway (where I've enjoyed many a brunch) is now a steakhouse by night. According to the blurb, they serve pasta, fish and burgers as well. Note that they have no liquor license, so it is BYOB (but bring glassware unless you want to drink your wine out of tumblers). I haven't been, but am eager to hear any reports. Link to NY Times Blurb (may require subscription)

Nina, I'd be interested in an outing to Sripaphai. Unfortunately my work schedule is unpredictable so it would be difficult for me to commit definitively to a week-night outing in advance. In any event, as it is BYO, one suggestion I'd offer (whether or not I can participate) is to bring a bunch of 2001 German Rieslings, which are just showing up on the shelves. I love a good Spatlese with Thai food (of course, beer is good too).

Just another bulletin here from the bubbly shopping front: Sam's in Chicago (www.samswine.com) is holding its annual Fall warehouse sale through October 31. The sale catalogue is pages and pages long, and includes quite a few champagnes. Three that jumped out to me as good buys (not to mention good wines) in the NV category are: Billecart-Salmon Champagne Rose NV: $35 Egly-Ouriet Champagne "Grand Cru Cuvee Vielles Vignes Blanc de Noir" NV: $31 Jacques Selosse Champagne "Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs" NV: $36

I've got a pass and will try to duck in at some point when I can escape the office for a few hours. I'd really like to catch the 2000 vintage tasting being presented by the Union des Grand Crus de Bordeaux.

I use a ricotta-parmesan-mozarella based mixture along the lines FG describes above, and a slowly simmered sauce of gently sauteed garlic slivers and diced onions, san marzano tomatoes, red pepper flakes, oregano, red wine and a half a dash of cinnamon stirred in at the end. I often add a layer of Eggplant (roasted slices) and Zuchinni (sauteed in olive oil and a little white wine) to the lasagna Its always better the second day.