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oakapple

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Posts posted by oakapple

  1. The tables in this room have only placemats but fine wine glasses and a lovely vase w. a sole calla lilly.

    Even in a recession, hope springs eternal :-)

    Given Charlie Palmer's longevity in this business, I have to think the new Aureole was designed with a longer time horizon in mind than just the current recession.
  2. Unfortunately, the terms "brunch" and "memorable" seldom go together. Sneakeater is right about Norma's, but "expensive" is an understatement. If you want a memorable meal in New York, you'll have many more options at dinner time. For brunch, I would find the cheapest place possible, and save my money till later.

  3. Art's Scottish Egg was terrifying. I'm surprised he squeaked by.

    It struck me as a dish that could have worked, though obviously the lamb needed to be more done, and the egg less. However, I don't have the back-history with it that Jay Rayner does.
  4. . Did we miss something essential here??

    Yea, you missed it by about 20 years. Jeffrey Chodorow’s first place. Opened mid 80’s. Got some print praise in the beginning, fusion fare, big pretty space, but went downhill over the years. I think those who remember the heyday recall crazy packed happy hour on Thursdays catering primarily to the corporate set. Gotta think it’s running on tourist fumes these days. Amazing it’s still open.

    It's not really that amazing; there are many, many restaurants running on exactly that kind of business (like, practically the entire theater district). The OP ordered from the Restaurant Week menu, which means she probably wasn't getting their best stuff.
  5. Gail Simmons sat in for Jay Rayner for two of the episodes, 4 and 6.

    In an interview, Jay Rayner said that Gail sat in because he hadn't yet received his U.S. work papers. This implies that the two episodes Gail judged were shot first.

    Anyone care to guess why they weren't aired in order?

  6. By chance, has anyone who has been to Marea ordered the "whole fish", which they price by the pound?

    A few years back when Michael White was still at Fiamma, we ordered the "whole roast branzino".

    The fish came out headless...

    thats called "Bad service." if this is really what happened. even if it wasn't, that was your impression, and it sounds like they've got some attitude.

    for a restaurant of marea's caliber, he should have went to the kitchen and got you a whole branzino head and presented it to your table with flourish. you did ask for it.

    Just to be clear, I think the OP was referring to an incident at Fiamma, not at Marea. Michael White hasn't been at Fiamma for a long time.
  7. Last night I finally experienced the 11 course Gourmand menu at EMP.  One word describes it:  exquisite!

    Eater reported this week that Bruni has been spotted three times in recent weeks at EMP. As Eater noted, "either Fantastic Frank is milking his expense account for all it's worth, or Danny Meyer could have a four star restaurant on his hands."
  8. As mentioned upthread, I did not enjoy Marea the first time. A couple of dishes were over-cooked, another was served cold, and even the correctly prepared dishes seemed below the level of a purported four-star restaurant. I don't normally give second chances, but after reading all the glowing reviews I was willing to try Marea again, which I did last night.

    Marea was much better this time. I still do not see a case for four stars, but on the strength of this visit I would give three. Strangely enough, my friend and I rated the savory courses in the same order: pastas best, followed by antipasti, and then entrées. But we were very happy with everything, so it is all relative.

    The amuse-bouche was, I believe, a sliver of house-made salmon, served on a skewer. Last time, we didn't get an amuse, which I am fairly certain was a mistake.

    I loved the risotto with asparagus and mushrooms,, which had a rich, buttery taste. Then again, when you add so much cream and butter it's hard to go wrong. Scallop crudo had a bright, lively flavor. Hawaiian swordfish was just fine, but it seemed like a dish I could get at Tribeca Grill. Mind you, I like Tribeca Grill, but no one has suggested it is a four-star restaurant.

    Marea doesn't seem to take many chances with desserts, but they've been excellent on both visits. Last night, we shared a pineapple panna cotta. The petits-fours very good, but again, compared to other restaurants, Marea is solidly in three-star territory.

    I like the wine program here, especially the abundance of bottles under $50. The sommelier directed us to a bottle of Loire Muscadet for just $43.

    The spacing of the courses was better than the last visit. The whole meal stretched out over three hours, but I never really noticed the passage of time. The restaurant was full, but I had no trouble getting an 8:15 p.m. reservation on two days' notice. We arrived a half-hour early and were seated immediately.

    I don't have the knack for spotting celebrities, but the political pundit David Gergen was at the table next to ours. CNN broadcasts from the Time-Warner Center, a short walk away. I am assuming he's a regular, as he was in and out of there very quickly, which one wouldn't be likely to do on a first visit. Chef White appeared at his table about a nanosecond after he sat down.

  9. My cynical response to the question of why the published critics have a different reaction on Marea than many of us on this website do: The critics have been recognized and treated differently!
    The critics' reviews have generally tracked reports of other diners: mostly positive, with the occasional off-note. I would say it's pretty consistent.
  10. Critics tend to be very hard on places they see as "fancy" or inappropriate to the times when the current ethos is otherwise.

    Frank Bruni and Adam Platt have been skeptical of these places for their entire tenures, and we haven't been in a recession the whole time.
  11. Frankly, I think the reviewers questioned its value just because they were put off by how nice (in a traditional sense) the dining room is.

    Exactly. If the restaurant offered the identical food, with counter dining on bar stools and hard rock blasting out of the iPod, Allegretti would be praised as a genius.
  12. ...any chance we could get a description or thoughts on why your experience was so poor?  Was it an off night, or was the service and food just outright bad?  Thanks!

    As I've only been once, I can't say whether it was an off night or a typical night. Service was excellent, except that there was an extremely long pause between the primi and the secondi. There was no amuse-bouche, and the petits-fours were pretty anemic for a place purporting to aspire to four stars.

    There was something "off" about practically all the savory courses. Grilled octopus was rubbery. Sturgeon tasted like a dry sponge. Seafood with speck and smoked cod had no cod that we could detect. Another pasta arrived not warm enough, and though the description promised chilies, there was just one lonely chili. In a number of the dishes, we found the ingredients poorly calibrated and/or lazily plated. Desserts were just fine, but they were fairly routine interpretations of classics (cheesecake; panna cotta).

    The preview menu had something like 85 items, not counting desserts, which I knew immediately would be a problem. You can't serve 85 things, especially in a brand new place, without some of them being let-downs. The menu should have been about half that long.

  13. My sense is that, while none of those ideas is wrong, you can become a Regular simply by patronizing a place regularly. Obviously, if you slip a twenty to the maitre d' it could hasten the process, but it's not essential. It also depends on the place. I suspect it would be a lot harder to make a dent at Ssäm Bar, where they already have plenty of long-term regulars, and where they are perpetually full anyway.

    ETA: The irony is that the author if the piece, Ben Leventhal, gets treated like royalty wherever he is recognized, simply because of who he is.

  14. The four of us had dinner recently at this restaurant that does not seem to be on anybody's radar.Its a small place with choices from the south of france and Italy. Its good value for NYC with entrees around $30 and appetizers around $15,dessert $10,also a prix fixe menu @$39...The noise level however was quite high. Incidentally is this the case with most NYC restaurants?
    It is quite common, unfortunately.
    Overall, this restaurant is good value and I wonder why its not better known.

    It is reasonably well known. It received a favorable two-star review last year in the Times, and it even made the critic's list of the 10 Best New Restaurants of 2008.
  15. "Four stars?!" You must be joking. We dined at Marea last night and it was quite ordinary. The famous octopus, bone marrow sauce on the fusilli is basically tomato. There was no evident sea urchin in the crab sea urchin spaghetti. Marea seems to be a comfort food restaurant, like Convivio, but better located. The clientele reflected that also.

    I also found it quite ordinary, not because it's a "comfort food restaurant," but because it is uneven. The ambition is clearly at a higher level than Convivio, but the menu is too long. It is practically impossible for a restaurant, right out of the gate, to offer so many selections without some of them being mediocre.

    But a four-star rating is clearly in play. I think Ryan Sutton is the best critic in NYC right now, and he gave it four stars for Bloomberg last week:

    Marea, in the old San Domenico space on Central Park South, is precisely what some say New York doesn’t need amid a recession: an extravagant, expensive restaurant. I say it’s exactly what we need during a recession: an outstanding restaurant.
    Alan Richman doesn't do stars, but he said if he did, Marea would get four:
    The question is not whether Marea is a very good restaurant. It’s at least that. What I (and others) are wondering is whether Frank Bruni might like it enough to award four stars, punctuating his reign as Times critic, which ends next month. He’s been by far the flashiest writer to hold the position, and perhaps the most ambitious. He’s put his mark on every one of New York’s four-star restaurants (Per Se, Masa, Le Bernardin, Jean-Georges, and Daniel). All too often top ratings linger for years, critics coming and going without updating them.

    What I’m thinking is that he might want to do even more: become the first Times critic to give four stars to an Italian restaurant. He is perceived to be particularly appreciative of restaurants from the country where he once served as the New York Times Rome bureau chief. And he clearly admires the cooking of White, as does most of New York.

    Based on my one visit, I am more inclined to agree with Adam Platt, who gave a very weak three stars, but Sutton and Richman are two of the best, and one must bear in mind Bruni's well known bias in favor of Italian restaurants. Awarding an undeserved fourth star on his way out the door would be the perfect capstone to Bruni's career.
  16. To get there, you drive down a very long dirt road with vines on both sides to a shack at the end.  Worth it.

    This is the sentence that I would like to construct my weekend around.

    Found it:

    http://www.sherwoodhousevineyards.com/FrameSet.htm

    Nothing spectacular but very different than the big vineyards with huge tour buses coming thru.

    Yes, we loved Sherwood House too. There are a few like that, but Sherwood House is the best we've found.

    There are plenty that lack the long dirt road, but aren't overrun by limos and buses. We love the Tasting Room on Peconic Lane. The principal tenant is Comtesse Thérèse, but she also hosts a number of smaller wineries that lack a tasting room of their own. We have never seen a bus there. Diliberto is another that's very cute, and where we have never seen a bus.

    Sometimes, it's just hit-or-miss as to whether a bus is present. However, there are some places with "attitude" that we won't visit under any circumstances, including Pindar, Martha Clara, and Pugliese.

  17. Reviving this REALLY old thread - anyone have more input?  Heading out to Greenpoint for a weekend soon.

    The Frisky Oyster is probably the best restuarant in Greenport. We've been there a number of times (blog report here) and have always been pleased. This summer, the same management opened a slightly more casual satellite restaurant a couple of blocks away, to which we've not yet been.

    The only other Greenport restaurant with which we have any experience is Claudio's, a formulaic seafood place, which I do not recommend.

    Down the road, in Southold, is the North Fork Table & Inn (blog report here). It's run by Manhattan exiles, including former Gramercy Tavern pastry chef Claudia Fleming. It is certainly worth a visit.

    We found the Jedediah Hawkins Inn in Jamesport mediocre, and even in Manhattan it would be considered awfully expensive, with entrées topping out in the 40s.

  18. Woody Allen once said that 80 percent of success is just showing up. Rick Moonen ought to have remembered that. He lost last night by a mere 2½ stars, but that included a zero on the quickfire. Had he managed to serve just about anything in the quickfire, he likely would have received the 3 stars he needed to win.

  19. I am mildly curious what type of impact this show has on the careers of the contestants. I would not be surprised if some of a people who crashed and burned in the first round or made a really stupid sanitation mistake might lose his or her job over it.

    I have not heard of chefs losing their jobs over this. It's just a contest. People realize that under the pressures of a contrived, time-boxed challenge, a chef might not give his or her best performance. If anything, I suspect that even the losers are better off for having done the show.

    I do find the judges needlessly condescending. I'd love to see what Geoffrey Zakarian could do under these conditions.

  20. I'm not sure what it is with Top Chef Masters, but, as much as I love seeing what these chefs do with the challenges, the show is missing something.  Maybe we need to see more cooking, more real judges' deliberation? I am not sure, but I will keep  watching.
    I agree and that's why I'm not as interested as I thought I'd be. What I think is missing is the hungry competitiveness we've seen in Top Chef. There's bragging rights and a big donation to a charity versus an obscure chef competing for $100K and winning national television and magazine exposure.

    There is less at stake, so it feels less like a competition, and more like chefs having fun. Also, because it's four different people every week, there is no story arc.
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