Revallo

behind the boq. on c/ elisabets... right next to the camper hotel... (where the old ¨foodball¨used to be)

This Monday Euro-Toques and Slowfood will be conducting a two day conference. Guest speakers include Luc Dubanchet, Davide Cassi, Harold McGee and Albert Adriá among others. More info at Diálogos de Cocina

The mangosteen is one of the only fruits we eat before it fully ripens, as it begins to ripen the seeds start to form in the larger segments. Normally the smaller segments to not contain seeds. You could make the puree with the smaller ones and with the larger segments cut the flesh away from the seeds. In India I believe the seeds are roasted and eaten.

I posted your question on the Molecular Gastronomy Discussion List the other day and here is what they came up with.

I was there on Monday; we watched the elBulli presentation as well as Andoni and Charlie Trotter. Ferran started by explaining his philosophy on the books and documentation of elBulli. The way of photographing everything from the new products that comes in to the restaurant to each step of the new techniques. Also he presented the new book 2005 and a "molecular gastronomy" glossary that was published by elBulli and Alissa, a public laboratory that will be opening this next year. He showed a few simple techniques such as using a juicer, as well as a few plates from 2005. Charlie Trotter and Andoni did a fantastic presentation. Trotter started by explaining the Caesar Salad, its history and how it is classically prepared. Then went in to telling us how he would serve it today in his restaurant in 2006, by deconstructing it to its bare elements. The romaine in to a creamy green sauce that serves as base of the plate, garlic prepared 3 ways, the eggs in to a creamy meringue, the popular technique of cooking an at 62 degrees centigrade, and then rolling it in crumbs of brioche. This was the first time I have seen Trotter presenting, and he really made me proud to be an American working in Spain… Andoni went through the philosophy of his restaurant, to me it is very similar to Michel Bras by the use of herbs, and how deeply integrated the restaurant is in nature. And also a few of the new techniques such as using the essential oils of plants and herbs. He took basil and deconstructed it in to 5 different aromas, each one different. But together they are the complete basil aroma. I only have Sunday and Monday off and for this I was able to get down to Barcelona…

The secret to Rafa's is simple. He only buys the best fish he can find, normally line caught. If he can't find what he likes he won't open. While I was living in Roses I ate there once a month, to see the variety in the season of the sea. After you eat at Rafa's fish will not be the same. You will always find defects in the fish you will eat in the future, whether if it was overcooked, a little old, maybe the fish drown in the net and even though its the same sea bass you ate at Rafa's its a world apart. By only having four tables he can ensure that what you eat is of the best quality possible. Here are a few photos of Rafa's in the summer of 2005 Start with an anchovie from roses y pan con tomate and a white wine from Penedes These are tallerinas, he cooks them on the flattop with olive oil and sea salt. When we go, normally we get two plates of these. For me, the calamari is the single best plate at Rafa's. They are hand caught and are not cleaned. You eat them as they come out of the sea, with its ink, its eyes and brain. The most incredible thing I have ever tasted. Tuna. The first and only time I have eaten fish with butter here. Normally he uses only olive oil and sea salt.

The chickens are about 1 year old when they are slaughtered. As for thier diet, I was told they normally hang out by the compost piles and hunt for worms. Grain is also provided, but they prefer the lettuce from the compost. I will post some pictures of the woodcock (becada) soon. Unfortunently they are not allowed to be sold on the menu but are made for family and friends of the restaurant.

I believe that grain is provided for the chickens but they normally eat bugs and worms. I am not sure of the age they are slaughtered, I am in Italy now and will return next week. Bux, the breast meat is slightly darker then the normal chickens, it is the legs that are the real difference. They are dark closer to the bone but lighten after it is cooked. I will get more information on the chicken when I return to Spain.

Go to Rafa's, it will change your life RAFA 972 25 40 03

What I actually meant by wild was that these birds are of such a high quality that they could be mistaken for a wild animal with thier dark flesh and thick skin. When I first cleaned one of these birds last year I had a hard time believing this was a chicken. Growing up in the US I developed a strong dislike for chicken and the dried Thanksgiving turkeys.... But to me there is such a strong diference between these chickens and the chicken I remember as a child that there should a different name. Also wild could be used to describe the taste and texture of the meat. Its not unlike grouse, not as tender as you would think but has texture of well aged red meat.

The day before the birds go in the ground. The slices of truffle are slid under the skin. Stuffing the birds with the truffle mixture Bon Profit!

Bux was right classically it is poached in a light broth. But Josep Maria prefers to slow roast it in the oven. He was telling me about when he spent a winter in Vermont when he was in his 20's he learned how to make a traditional American Stuffing with butter and bread crumbs. At the restaurant we add a lot of grated truffles as well. It is fairly new, I believe this is the restaurants 4th season.

I have returned to the Pyrennes and I am living in a small village called Puigcerda on the french Boarder and I am working for the second winter for Josep Maria Masso. I am going to explain a traditional technique for preparing chicken in the winter in the Cerdanya Valley. The chickens from Pages are an extordinary animal. Not your typical ''Free-range organic chicken'' these chickens are wild animals. The chickens are hung in our walk-in for about a week to dry out a little and concentrate the flavor of the meat. Slices of black truffles are inserted between the skin and meat of the chickens. They are as well stuffed with an mixture of bread crumbs foie gras, milk and black truffles. The chickens are then wrapped in linen. On the morning of Christmas Eve, we drove them to a forest where truffles grow. A whole is dug and in go the chickens. They will stay here for 2 weeks. Depending on the tempurature. (0 - 4 degrees celcius) A little cava for good luck! This is a very old recipe that has been practiced here in the Pyrennes. It was believed that when you rebury the truffle in the ground it will continue to release its perfume in to the meat of the chicken.

You can try Kokotxa, its a new up and coming restaurant in the parta vieja. The chefs name is Danny. He speaks good english as well. Here is the address: Kokotxa Campanario, 11 Tele: 943 42 19 04 Restaurante Kokotxa

Orial Castro is responsibilile for the creativity and experiments that take place in elBulli. He and Ferran are the only ones in the kitchen in the mornings, along with two stagiers helping set up the kitchen and to get what ever else they need. Dishes change and come and go daily, based on when the product is at its peak.