John Talbott

Hidden gem? I don't think so, although Pierre45 swears by the Cafe du Commerce Is it still possible? Of course. Traditional brasseries? Flo Group - Coupole, Julien, Terminus Nord, etc. - just fine. Non-Flo ones - Brasserie Lorraine, Bofinger and over 30 others - good. All will offer you the "look" you want as well as and pretty standard hurried (in a nice way) service.Right now the Brasserie Lorraine's my favorite, but if coming in on the Thalys or Eurostar, I can easily be talked into the Terminus Nord. There's none except the over-hyped Lipp & Coupole & Balzar I would not patronize. The setting, food and service are such you cannot lose no matter which you pick; neither will you be surprised by some exotic dish.

Ah well then, check our past threads and you'll find lots of places recommended by eGullet members that fit your budget and are terrific.

The Week of October 24th, 2005 Monday in “A Nous Paris,” Jerome Berger reviewed Le Passage Chez Senderens, coordinates given already, which is a description of the tapas bar on the second floor (American numbering) of AS’s resto, where the menu-carte of tapas is 45 E. His colleague Philippe Toinard, meanwhile, went back to Flora Mikula’s place, coordinates also given, which is featuring the women’s only lunch for 45 E that was described above as well. They also mention Le Kiwi Corner and the Festival of Tea, at the Bourse du Commerce for 2 E. This week’s Figaroscope’s C’est nouveau gave the lead and photo but only two hearts to Maxan, 37, rue de Miromesnil in the 8th, (the old La Poêle d'Or space) 01.42.65.78.60, open every meal but Saturday at lunch; where they had the crunchy pork, scallops and adorable tartare of oysters and langoustines. A la carte = about 60 €; menu of two dishes = 30 €. The next three got 1 heart ; they included : the wine bistro Vin Chai Moi, coordinates given above, a Mexican place Hacienda del Sol in the old Marmite & Cassolette space in the 6th {EN:I loved it}, and a Cuban resto – Los Orishos in the 11th. A broken plate went to Bistot Victoires. Figaroscope’s Dossier was entitled From Décor to Food and discussed trendy décor in trendy places: e.g.: Le Georges Senderens-le Passage Gaya Pierre Gagnaire Bar du Plaza Athénée Murano Le Cab’ Le Kong Délicabar Etienne Marcel Flora Danica They also mention an exhibition « Second Skin » at the gallery Fraich’Attitude, for details see here, and the restaurant Bespoke, a restaurant elementaire by Pierre Gagniere and Christian Ghion serving lunch only at Printemps de la Mode on blvd Haussman from Nov 24 to Dec 24. Finally Francois Simon’s Hache Menu deals with an Italian place La Gazzetta, 29, rue de Cotte in the 12th, 01.43.47.47.05, which he says to go to (117 E for 2) if you live nearby. This Wednesday as well, Sebastien Demorand in Zurban devotes his major space to reviews of three hot spots: le Studio, 81, avenue de Ségur in the 15th, 01.43.06.20.20, closed Saturday noon and Sundays, lunch formula = 15 €, a la carte about 29, where in addition to the lounge décor and atmosphere, there are tapas; the Italo-Spanish Bobo café-brasserie La Gazzetta, see coordinates above; and the pricey but good-food serving, trendy but serious, Kodo, 29, rue du Bourg-Tibourg in the 4th, 01.42.74.45.25, open everyday, a la carte about 40-45 €, serving a terrine of octopus, Limousin lamb and a verbena tatin. In his “Casseroles” section, he reviews the Spanish tapas place reviewed by others recently – Cristina’s Tapas; the demi-bistro L’Épicurien, 86 bis rue Lepic in the 18th, 01.42.51.25.51, with a menu-carte at 27 €, serving so-so food, eg duck with orange sauce but a fine Morgon; and the La Ferrandaise, 8, rue de Vaugirard in the 6th, 01.43.26.36.36, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays with a menu-carte of 30 €, also serving so-so food like a terrine of ham and foie gras, langoustines with veggies but good, reasonably-priced bio wines. I’m not quite sure why Jean-Luc Petitrenaud of L'Express returned to {one of my old favorites,} Bernard Loiseau’s Tante places, Tante Marguerite, coordinates in the guidebooks, but his description of multiple dishes sounds terrific and the 34 E menu still sounds reasonable. He also reviewed the efforts of the new team at Au Pied de Fouet, coordinates in the guidebooks, serving confit de canard, veal kidney and home-made sausage – all for 18 E. Thursday/Friday, Jean-Claude Ribaut in Le Monde wrote up a restaurant in Chinon – Au Plaisir gourmand along with an article on Chinon wines. Friday, in Le Point Gilles Pudlowski has his usual mix of recipes, culinary artists and restaurants; three in or near Biarritz – Arostéguy, Philippe + 1746/Hégia the latter in Hasparren, run by the young Daugins; two in Paris “to follow:” A Casaluna + l’Assiette the former at 6, rue de Beaujolais in the 1st, 01.42.60.05.11, menu = 20, a la carte 45 E ; the latter at 181, rue du Château in the 14th, 01.43.22.64.86 a la carte = 90 E; and two in Paris that are in good shape: l’Espadon + le Copenhague, coordinates well-known. Friday, also, in Les Echos, Jean-Louis Galesne presented six new places {although the head says five}: Le Pergolèse, 40, rue Pergolèse in the 16th, 01.45.00.21.40, closed weekends, menu at 38, a la carte 80-90 E, serving “Classic Lyonnais” cuisine such as raviolis of langoustines, truffle salad, farm guinea-fowl; the charming but pricey retro bistrot Benoît, par Alain Ducasse, coordinates above, for leg of lamb, cassoulet, profiteroles for about 90 E (lunch menu = 38); Carte Blanche, 6, rue Lamartine in the 9th, 01.48.78.12.20, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, formula at 25, menu = 31 E for Basque coldcuts and cheeses, duck foie gras, Portugese-type scallops, etc.; Le Bar des Artistes, 10, rue Saulnier in the 9th, 01.47.70.50.88 closed Sunday and Monday, about 25-35 E for honest bistrot fare like andouillette AAAAA and other items on the blackboard; La Gazetta see above; and a Thai place Thabthim Siam in the 8th. Saturday/Sunday, John Talbott had a piece in Bonjour Paris called “You want me to go out where?” about restaurants a bit away from the center of Paris and Margaret Kemp had a piece on What’s New (this fall) in which she mentions: Citrus Etoile, Stella Maris, Benoit, Senso Compagnie des Comptoirs, 23, rue de Ponthieu in the 8th, 01.42.25.95.00, a Pourcel brothers’ offshoot, Le Jardin d’Hiver, Yannick Alleno’s bar-resto at the Meurice and the French-Asiatic place Chez Ly, 95, avenue Niel in the 17th, 01.40.53.88.38. Sunday’s New York Times featured an article by Ann Morrison “My Chateau is Your Chateau” that recommends several restaurants in the Burgundy wine country: Le Bon Acceuil, l’Alambic, La Buissonniere, Domaine Comte Senard + Olivier Leflaive. November’s Gourmet, says they will be making a reservation at Le Puits de Tresor in Lastours; also writes up the Daguin’s Hegia outside Biarritz; reviews the English translation of La Bonne Cuisine de Madame E. Saint-Ange: The Original Companion for French Home Cooking, Ten Speed Press, $40 and {bucking the trend} listed Liza as providing “superb” Lebanese food. November’s Conde Nast Traveler discussed new items created by Paris bakers: specifically the religieuse at Stohrer, the madeleine at Fauchon, the tarte tatin at Lenotre, the macaron at Laduree + Pierre Herme and the éclair at Sadaharu Aoki; published an article by Joseph Ward on champagne – “They’re the Top” {it will be posted sooner or later on their website}, in it were several restaurant recommendations: Royal Champagne, Hostellerie La Briqueterie + Millenaire; and in their special section on “100 Bests,” Paris is listed at the 5th top European city and the Four Seasons George V , is 10th on the list of best hotels worldwide but 2nd in Europe. This month (November’s) Paris Notes’s “Paris Bites” features reviews by Rosa Jackson of two places covered by others but with a different twist. She really panned Le Refectoire, calling it gimmicky cafeteria food {EN: she’s the only person I know besides myself who hasn’t liked it} and Goupil le Bistro which she liked and termed as good bistrot food. I missed it when it was posted on October 3rd, but Julie Baker of Paris Voice listed her favorites for the fall as: Stella Maris, Aux Crus de Bourgogne, Cap Vernet, Le Vauban, 7 pl Vauban in the 7th, 01.47.05.52.67, open daily with a menu at 34 E including gizzards and foie gras, terrine of rabbit and magret of duck {which is in no guidebook I have}. Recently Time Out Paris put a review of Gaya up on its site. Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

For folks searching this thread for good places to eat in Burgundy, Ann Morrison has an article in today's travel section of the NYT that recommends several restaurants in the Burgundy wine country: Le Bon Acceuil, l’Alambic, La Buissonniere, Domaine Comte Senard + Olivier Leflaive.

I just read the Saveur article as well, and Les Magnolias looks pretty amazing. A place I'd like to try, but is a bit above my budget, is Chez Jean in the 9th. Has anyone been? I've read good things. Carte: 60 euros. Or La Table du Lancaster would be in your budget. I can't comment on it though, since I haven't been. ← I liked the La Table du Lancaster both times I went and I agree with Felice that it and Chez Jean, esp. the latter, whose prices keep on inching up, may be over your budget though.

A fine idea; a great place and it's much closer than it looks (on a nice day, one can walk directly east from the Chateau de Vincennes Metro; about 6 km). I'd raise a question I often do; why the devotion to the Michelin ratings?; they make mistakes (eg Helene Darroze) like every rating system. That said, however, other one-star places that are within your budget, at least the menus are at lunch, are the Violin d'Ingres + Beatilles. And, still sticking to the Michelin; the Bib Gourmands that qualify are the Dome du Marais, Bon Acceuil, Cerisaie, Regalade, Beurre Noisette + Le Troquet (despite the over-salting we experienced last month.)

The gun was, to my knowledge, given to B. Loiseau by a gentleman friend of his. Besides, many people in the countryside are hunters and own guns. Some of them may be chronically depressed and hunters at the same time. ← I understand that Ernest Hemingway's wife gave him the key to his gun cabinet, she having held it for some time, the night before he shot himself. ← Gentle reminder, this being a food site let's stick to the topic; OK? Thanks

Wow, that's great. Thanks so much.

It's Pascal Remy’s “L’inspecteur se met à table,” Éditions des Équateurs, 2004, and the thread discussing it is here.

I'm pretty sure it's just lunch.

It sounds terrific, I'd love to see the photos.

This is a terrific idea Margaret. When Busboy put the thread up I tried to find ones in the area Colette and I had been in two weeks ago without success. So I think an eGullet List of Backroad Bistros would be great. I'm not going to merge the two because I think this thread will stand on its own. Again thanks.

I have posted this on the Events Calendar but a loyal member noted that many folks don't check it; so FYI: Festival du Thé Nov 5-7, 2005, 10 AM – 7 PM http://www.cooking2000.com/fr/event/festival-du-the.htm Entrance 2 E Open to All Chambre du Commerce et d'Industrie de Paris 38/40 rue du Louvre and 2 rue de Viarmes in the 1st Metro : Chatelet

The Week of October 17th, 2005 Sunday, in JDD, the newspaper featured the favorite reasonable Paris restos of the chef at L’Oasis in La Napoule – they are l’Epi Dupin + Le Pamphlet. In addition there was a piece on Russian food that featured two places – Petrouchka + Au Regal. Also, in its Version Femina section, Astrid de T’Serclaes wrote up Bouche a l’Oreille, 34 rue Gassendy in the 4th, serving French-Spanish-North African food, and the well-reported Le Refectoire. In Wednesday’s Zurban Sebastien Demorand reviewed the restaurant run by the best “no-star” chef of the hour – Alain Senderens, 9 place de la Madeleine in the 8th, 01.42.65.22.90, open lunch and dinner everyday, a la carte from 80-100 €, which he calls an upscale brasserie with three-star prices and where he liked the sardines stuffed with Moroccan spices and rice, encornets, tarte of confited tomatoes and tartar of veal and langoustines. In his “Casseroles” section, he reviewed Coté 9e, 5, rue Henri-Monnier in the 9th, 01.45.26.26.30, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, costing about 30 E a la carte for “average” neighborhood food such as sautéed girolles and trumpets of death, pork with potatoes and a nice Bordeaux; a trendy bistrot with great wines but poor food (he subtitles it “Pop and Flop”) – la Réserve, 141, rue St-Maur in the 11th, 01.48.05.78.15, formula = 19, a la carte 28E; and an Indonesian place with a Balinese dancer Djakarta Bali in the 1st. Wednesday, Emmanuel Rubin in Figaroscope’s “C’est nouveau,” gave the photo and text description but only two hearts to Cristina’s Tapas, 18, rue Duphot in the 1st, 01.42.97.53.04, but three hearts to Benoit, 20, rue St-Martin in the 4th, 01.42.72.25.76, open every day, where 80-90 E (menu at lunch = 38 E {Ed Note; but take it from me it looked most uninteresting in the window last week}) will get you frogs’ legs, girolles, ray that is not great but veal that is. One heart each went to a French neighborhood bistro Entre Nous, 89, bvd de Courcelles in the 8th, 01.43.80.78.22. closed Sundays; a sandwhich/wrap place Naked, 40, rue du Colisee in the 8th; and an Italian place – Sole Caffe e Cucina in the 9th. Meanwhile, Colette Monsat, Gilles Dupuis, Emmanuel Rubin, Francois Simon and Sylvain Verut in Figaroscope’s ”Dossier” gave pluses and minuses but no ratings to « 10 new wine bars » as follows : l’Appent Vino’s Le Porte Pot Le Louis Vin Le Vin de Soif Autour d’un verre Tandem Vin Chai Moi Le Cave est Restaurant Finally, Francois Simon’s « Hache Menu » discussed another such wine bar Les Crâneuses, 72 bis, rue Jean-Pierre-Timbaud in the 11th, 01.47.00.37.59, open everyday but Sundays beginning at 6 PM, where he does not ask his traditional question whether we should go, thus leaving us trying to figure out if his Simonspeak description of just a neighborhood wine bar is reason to go or not. Thursday, Jean-Luc Petitrenaud, in l’Express reviewed two out of town places: Le Piet à terre in Châteaumeillant and Les Arcades in Aigues-Mortes. Thursday-Friday in Le Monde, Jean-Claude Ribaut reviewed Senderens, coordinates given, stating that while he was central to Nouvelle Cuisine, having “given up” his stars at age 65, he’s “modernized” the place and given it a second life, open 7/7 with two sittings at dinner, like in NYC. Ribaut calls the chef, Frédéric Robert, gifted and liked everything he had from the sardines to the desserts, from cepes prepared three ways to the cod with chorizo. Friday, in Le Point, Gilles Pudlowski had his usual series of mini-reviews in and outside Paris, of new and old places, foreign and French - including: the famed Crocodile + le “R” in Strasbourg, the trattoria Ante Prima and Japanese place Aida in Paris and he also notes that Ducasse’s Relais Plaza + Le Boeuf Couronné are in good form and finally that Didier Elena, ex-Ducasse, Bocuse, Guérard, Essex House, etc, is doing a great job at Les Crayères in Reims, cooking dishes much like his “milk sibling,” Jean-François Piège at the Crillon. Saturday in his « Croque Notes » Francois Simon wrote up Taillevent, 15, rue Lamennais in the 8th, 01.44.95.15.01, where he spent 328 E for two dining on carpaccio of scallops, betteraves and celery, impeccable small Bresse chicken, dessert divided for two and an astonishing 42 E Givry. Also, the Salon of Chocolate runs October 22-25th) at the Porte de Versailles. Saturday’s Figaro has several pieces on chocolate; the fair’s website is www.salonduchocolat.fr. Sunday, Margaret Kemp in Bonjour Paris, wrote up Flora Mikula’s, 36 Avenue George V in the 8th, 01.40.70.10.49, closed Saturday lunch and Sundays, new seasonal 36 E menu which had four courses (there is also a woman’s lunch for 45 E that has three courses, include a glass of champagne and two glasses of wine; a formula = 26 E and the degustation menu at 60 E.) In addition, John Talbott wrote an essay on “When Should We Go?” Finally, John Whiting has a piece on Bergerac, I which he mentions: Lou Peyrol, L’Imparfait, Tour des Vents, + Chez Alain. I neglected to include two articles from the October 8th New York Times, the first by Julia Chapin called “Abuzz on the Canal St-Martin” that mentioned Chez Prune, Le Repaire, the Hotel du Nord, La Madonnina, + Le Cambodge; the second one about the town of Sanary Sur Mer where Antonia Feuchtwanger recommends the Café la Marine which was patronized by the foreign exiles that were the focus of her piece. This Fall 2005’s US-based France Magazine has four pieces of note by Alexander Lobrano: the first on “Ethnic Dining,” wherein he writes up: Liza, Samiin, La Mousson, Au P’tit Cahoua, 404 + Ile de Goree; the second on where to pick up the perfect picnic: La Cave de l’Os a Moelle, Les Vivres, l’Avant-Gout, Chez Michel, La Grande Epicerie, Lafayette Gourmet + A la ville de Rodez; restos in the 3rd – l’Estaminet + Café Baci; and finally places to go for brunch: Breakfast in America, Café Charbon, Alcazar, Hotel Meurice + Plaza Athenee. Amber Garrison in Postcards from Paris, raves about La Frégate, 1 rue du Bac in the 7th, conveniently located near the Orsay Museum, saying that while it looks touristy, it serves great food at reasonable prices. The American Saveur magazine has an article about Chez Panisse chefs David Tanis and Randal Breski’s favorite Paris restaurants (they live in Paris six months a year). They are: l’Assiette, Chez Georges, Chez Michel, + les Saveurs d’Asie, the latter for phở. There is a very nice description in English of the Atelier Des Chefs in this week's Time Out Paris. It notes that their website indicates what they'll be cooking the day you wish to go. Adrian Leeds recounted a 5-day food orgy on ParlerParis – it included meals at the Violin d’Ingres, Minh Chau, Les Fêtes Galantes + Bistrot Le Mazarin. Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

I regret not having picked this up before but better late than never; the Salon of Chocolate runs through tomorrow (October 25th) at the Porte de Versailles. Saturday’s Figaro has several pieces on chocolate and the fair; their website is www.salonduchocolat.fr.

Today's Le Point's Gilles Pudlowski has a very nice review/bio/tribute of/to Elena at Les Crayeres that certainly reads like he performs very well outside the Ducasse-empire and as Louisa states, serves food much like that of his "milk brother," Jean-François Piège at the Crillon.

There is a very nice description in English of the Atelier Des Chefs in this week's Time Out Paris. It notes that their website indicates what they'll be cooking that day.

Today's Figaroscope has the poop; three hearts, see here.

Actually j, you've raised an interesting point. Because eGullet is an American site, our style guidelines, only guidelines, mind you, call for no accents so that searches will be better. I searched a couple of Parisian restaurants with and without accents and indeed the results are different (one gets more English sites without accents and French sites with, which makes sense). Therefore, I guess I'd caution everyone who wants to search a resto to use both accents and no accents.

For this I would encourage you do go to past threads, say this one, as well as John Whiting's website and the Digests of 2004 and 2005.

If you go, get his specialty - a kouign-Amam; a Breton coronary bomb (used to be available only on weekends but now he seems to carry them all the time); Larher is from there; also the tartes are great.

You are both correct; I forgot downstairs.

A bashful member asked me the following question which I thought interesting enough to post. Well, I’ll spare you the mini-lecture on how one shouldn’t be restricted to one quartier or other because almost any place in Paris is reachable in 20-45 minutes; nor get into a favorite debate on this Forum – “What is a bistrot?” Instead, here are my thoughts for a place where 10 of you can talk and be heard and not disturb others too much: Au Bon Acceuil which has a small room that should seat 10 Bastide Odeon, where upstairs there is probably room for 10 and if not crowded - you’ll be alone. As for 6 of you; the options widen and include: Maison du Jardin, the table to the right of the door against the window, Ze Kitchen Galerie, the table in the back corner against the window, where the friends of M. Ledeuil usually dine. Mediteranee on the porch at the far end (West end) Other places where I’m afraid 6 would overwhelm the place are Cinq Mars, Les Papilles + Wadja. I’d also consider Auberge Bressane for special mention, simply because it’s the most classic bistro look in the 6th or 7th I know of, altho’ the food is not up to the atmosphere.

The Week of October 10th, 2005 In honor of “British Week, Monday in “A Nous Paris,” Jerome Berger reviewed tea rooms in Paris, awarding them, as follows: La Grande Epicerie de Paris + Kilali – 4/4 blocks. Tea Caddy, Ventilo Café + La Bague de Kenza – 3/5 blocks Les Cakes de Bertrand – 2/5 blocks Monday as well, in the freebie newspaper, Metro, the restos of the week were listed as: Citrus Etoile, coordinates already give, and Chez Pradel, 168, rue Ordener in the 18th, 01.46.06.75.48, featuring a new carte that has oddities such as a crème brulee with foie gras on lunch menus that run 12-16 E with wine. Sebastien Demorand, Wednesday, in this week's Zurban, devoted his major article to trying out recipes from Alain Passard et al's new book for children, Les recettes des Droles de Petite Betes, 11.40 E, that was released October 6th. The photo shows an example of a recipe for Corn soup with pop-corn. In his “Casseroles” though, he reviewed his usual three places: the classic Montmartre brasserie showcased in “le Fabuleux Destin d’Amelie Poulain,” La Mascotte, 52, rue des Abbesses in the 18th, 01.46.06.28.15, open everyday, running about 35-40€, where he enjoyed the oysters and bulots during the return of months with an “R;” a new Mexican resto – the Hacienda del Sol in the 6th and an Italian place, Italia Caffè in the 20th. Figaroscope’s Emmanuel Rubin, in “C’est nouveau,” awarded two hearts, the photo and the top text to a new place chef’d by an ex from Beauvilliers and front-room man from Gagnaire – called Carte Blanche, 6, rue Lamartine in the 9th, 01.48.78.12.20, closed Saturday lunch and Sunday, with menus of 25 and 31 E for amusing strange cans of tiny fish, veal and beef and St Pierre. He also gave two hearts to Le bis de Severo, 16, rue des Plantes in the 14th, 01.40.44.73.09, closed Saturday dinner, Sundays and Mondays, a la carte about 35 E, for cod of the day, tartare cut thickly and hyperactive service. One heart each went to La Goumandine, 29 rue Surcouf in the 7th, 01.45.51.61.49, closed Sunday and Monday lunch, serving a terrine of beef, veal liver and crème caramel for 35-40 and formula at lunch for 17 and dinner 29 E; a Japanese place, Wa in the 1st and a neo-brasserie Eugene, 166, bd Haussmann in the 8th, 01.42.89.00.13, closed Sundays, running 35-50 E with a formula at 19.50 E for a trilogy of gaspachos, ham (sad and pitiful) and chicken breast tika massala (not very tika but very dry). In the “Dossier” of Figaroscope, the group lists a number of new Italian places (they note that at least one a week opens): Tartufo Il Gallo Nero Amici Miei Croccante I Virtuosi Sole, Caffe & Cucina Il Settimo La Strada Settebello Taverna degli Amici and also Firenze Along this line, Francois Simon went to Ante Prima – one should peek in to see what it looks like. Friday, in Le Point, Gilles Pudlowski gives his usual brief reviews, including those for: Citrus Etoile, coordinates given already, where he calls Gilles Epié’s food - full of spirit, bourgeois and possessing a franco-californian new wave influence; le Fils de la Ferme, 5, rue Mouton-Duvernet in the 14th, 01.45.39.39.61, menus at 17 (lunch) and 26 E (dinner), a la carte 33, where he had smoked daurade and a seductive 5-hour lamb shoulder; Le Coq Noir, 92, bd Victor-Hugo in Clichy. 01.47.39.36.69, a la carte 35 E serving franco-african food; l’Astrance coordinates well known, where the creative chef Pascal Barbot served him pigeon with a chocolate-rosemary eggplant ravioli; and the well-known, at least since 1886, brasserie Bofinger, coordinates equally well-known, where he liked the ox tail with foie gras, andouillette and strawberry-vanilla vacherin. Friday, as well, Jean-Louis Galesne in Les Echos wrote up six places in Limoges – Le 27, Philippe Redon, La Table de Jean, Le Versailles, La Cuisine + Chez Alphonse - and I’ll refer you to their website for the details. Saturday/Sunday in Le Figaro devoted most of their “Gout” page to Alba (e.g. Italian white) Truffles, giving seven places to get them in Paris: I Golosi, Paolo Petrini, Le Sormani, Stresa, l’Osteria, Maison de la Truffe + Armani Caffé. Francois Sinon’s “Croque Notes” started out with an amplification of his and the group’s review of Carte Blanche, coordinates above, where in addition to describing the food, if I understand him, {and that’s not ever a given,} he lauds the inventiveness and precision of the food but says in any resto in its first days, it’s like a dancer who’s not looking at the public, just dancing for herself. His second comment is about the Meurice, coordinates well-known, which he calls worthy of three stars and “incontestably” the best great restaurant of the moment. Saturday/Sunday, as well, Nicolas Lander had a piece in the FT Weekend section entitled ”Silence is Golden: Quiet concentration and team spirit are behind the success at Le Cinq;” a subhead that says it all, after he spent considerable time in the kitchen watching how the team there worked. Sunday in Bonjour Paris, Margaret Kemp wrote an article called “Guy Savoy Buzz” that details Tony Blair’s meal at Les Bookinistes, coordinates well-known, as well as provides a nice history of Savoy’s journey up the culinary ladder. In addition, John Talbott {for search pruposes I’ll refer to myself in the 3rd person} wrote an essay on “How to Find Good Seafood in Paris” in his biweekly essay cum column - “French Food Folies.” He especially recommends: the Bistrot du Dome, Gaya, Ze Kitchen Galerie, l’Ecallier du Bistrot, + l’Huitrier. October’s Where has a couple of recommendations by Alexander Lobrano: Maxan, Citrus Etoile + Le Pergolese, coordinates already supplied. By now, it’s already a month old, but because this is the “Digest of Record,” I’ll recount that Adam Gopnik had an article discussing Alain Passard‘s evolution to growing and cooking non-meat/pro-veggie meals in an article in the Sept. 5, 2005 New Yorker, entitled “ Two Cooks: taking food to the extremes.” Not much new is revealed but it is a nice piece on a wonderful chef written by a great observer of the French scene whose “Letters from Paris,” which were so spot-on, are greatly missed. And to finish, the freebie magazine “Voyages d’Affaires” noted that three places had new decors and/or chefs: Noura, la Table du Baltimore + le Bel Ami as well as an exhaustive listing of the fine dining and quick lunch places on and off the Champs-Elysees. Please post comments here and not in the Digest thread.

Well, my friend and I "auditioned" it last week (that is, we looked at the menu in the window) and it seemed to be as if not more pricey for the same stuff they served 20 years ago. This week, the critics will weigh in. Stay tuned.