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Kevin, those quail look fantastic! I adore quail!!! Sorry about the fish soup disappointment, brodettos just make my heart pound....I love a good fish soup. Its comfort food for me. And you MADE olive ascolana??? THAT is impressive!! Found any Umbrian wines??

The weather in Umbria just sucked this August! Rain, rain, cold, rain. I wore my fleece all of August!!!! The porcinis have been fantstic. The uova (spelling?) are incredible. The black truffles....people are giving them away they have so many. And that's the funghi report from northern Umbria.

Ciao tutti. Pecorino: yeah, we have it. Its almost like a catch all name for cheese in my part of Umbria. I'm exaggerating, but the cheese man at the market has at least 15 variations on pecorino. Pecorino and mostardo. Pecorino and honey. The above are reasons to either not skip appertivo or to skip desert. Porchetta: bah. Porchetta in Rome. bah. Tuscany. sorry, Tuscany has tripe trucks. We have porchetta trucks. The real deal prochetta trucks. Warm, salt, garlicy heaven. Umbria is the center of all that is porchetta and I defy anyone to argue with me on this one! This is one dish I wouldn't even think of trying at home. You NEED a whole pig, you NEED the grasso and the magro, you NEED that dead awful salt free bread roll to soak up the juices. You even need that brown paper to wrap up the warm meat. All porchetta comes from porchetta trucks, these guys are masters. And its like a diner, you go where the line is the longest. mmmm.....porchetta. p.s. try and track down some Verdichio di Matellica. (Jesi's Verdichio is buttery like a chardonay, Matellica's is flinty). ciao-ciao!

Hmmmm...too bad about the bunny. Coniglio should be gamier, more flavorful, firmer texture than chicken. Somewhere there is an indepth discussion of rabbit recipes on eG...but I'm on dial up and I can't find it. Ore, Kellytree and Divinia all pipe up with excellent versions. Don't give up on the bunny. Now, if you could just find some lepre.... Umbrian and Le Marche food is so simple, and so ingredient driven that I think in a strange way these are two of the hardest regions. You can't fudge anything because there are so few ingredients to begin with. I've been involved in deep discussions on whether it is at all possible or desirable to have any more than 3 ingredients in any one dish. Roasting carrots and fennel together would be total heresy according to these Umbrians or Marchigiani. I'm not saying that I don't ever put more than 3 ingredients in an Umbrian style dish, I'm only mentioning this for some insight into the cuisine. When we first started spending time here, I found it down right scary to cook Umbrian, you have to have everything perfect or it doesn't work, there's just no way to fudge it with a little butter or sauce, if you know what I mean. Backing off from lots of ingredients was hard for me. Still is.

Your ribs look terrific...I only wish I could smell them too! What about crostini?? or bruschetta? Bruschetta in this part of the world means toasted bread rubbed with raw garlic a smear of olive oil and some salt. Divine. Addicitive. Resist the temptation to garlic both sides of the bread.

Restoration taking tooooooooooo long...costing toooooooooooooo much euros...............

Elie...you don't stuff those suckers...you just put them in with some fennel!! Lumachine (little sea snails) or Raguse (big sea snails) in porchetta: Ingredients: olive oil, garlic, tomato paste, carrot, olive oil, thyme, marjoram, parsley, and wild fennel, salt, pepper, peperoncion, dry white wine, fish stock. If you can get your hands on some sea snails, I'll give you the whole run down on cleaning them etc. etc. Basically you clean the snails, and then stew them in the ingredients above. This turned out to be one of my all time favorite dishes! Can you locate some "stocafisso"? Air dryed codfish...not salted baccala. It makes a huge difference. Hmmm....vincigrassi....when we made it, it was a whole other thing. Namely it was made with organ meats. Here's a list of ingredients from one of the recipes that I have: ground veal, cocks comb and testicles, chicken liver, veal brains, sweetbreads, one back (as in chicken or veal...as you like), carrots, onion, garlic, celery, prosciuto, pomodoro passata, wine, milk, brodo, dry porcini, butter, salt, pepper and parmigiano. But, in looking thru one of my references, I see a Vincigrassi di Matelica that is basically a white lasagna made with pork, lamb, and veal. Since Kellytree is in the mountains...and pretty much shares the same cuisine as we do, do you mind if I share some info on "brodetto"? Basically fish stews, but man, as these guys territorial!! Per esampio: Brodetto di San Benedetto: This version has green and red peppers, and green tomatoes and pepperoncini Brodetto di Porto Recanti: this is a creamy and mild brodetto that uses saffron and has a lovely color (to me...its a little bland) Brodetto all Fanese: relies on tomato paste to differentiate it, also uses peperoncino Brodetto all'Anconetana: probably the 'base line' brodetto, it has olive oil, onion, garlic, peperoncino, vinegar, parsley, some canned tomato and some fresh. The Fanese is a stronger tomato base brodetto. OH! OH! Try this: Vongole alla Poveraccia Chop up some garlic, anchovies (preserved), chili peppers and parsley Heat up some olive oil Add the clams and cook until the clams open, add some black pepper Simple, but really tasty. The anchovy flavor just brings a whole new dimension to the tried and true steamed clam. I'm paraphrasing these recipes as some come from school, and some from books and I don't want to step on any copyright toes...if you know what I mean. I'll look thru some meat books tommorow. But, don't go for those 'clean' cuts...try to find meat that has some character (bones, gristle, fat). Hard to explain, but those processed cuts found in the U.S. just lack the "texture" of the meat in Umbria. We went to a local festa this summer, and I swear we were served 'bone sandwiches". The lamb chunks had been grilled and then put into a big roll, but the lamb chunk to meat ratio was about 80% bone/gristle to meat. Apparently, only we stranieri were bothered by this, everyone else gnawed around the meat, tossed the bones and ate the bread with all the juices soaked up. And one more short story, then I'll be quiet, I promise: this morning, I came home from the market and there on my doorstep was a box of salad, cucumber, celery that had been left there by my neighbor. Sort of like a visit from the vegetable fairy. Now, I've lived in New York City for the past 150,000 years, so stuff like that just makes me smile all day!

Robert, we went to Locanda Gambero Rosso and had a lovely meal and a lovely time. As we were travelling around (coming from Stia across that spectacular mountain pass!) we even stayed at the Locanda over night. We had the tasting menu, and everything was fresh and delicious....if a bit too 'bread-centered'. Panzanella to start...some sort of papa pomodoro, etc. Next time, we will order off the menu. The porcini mushrooms at the next table looked just about perfect, we were seriously about to ask him for just a little taste. And the entire staff and family simply could not be more pleasant and welcoming. By the time we left in the morning, I had an invitation to come and work in the kitchen for a week if I wanted. Now, that's a good invitation, don't you think? By the way...they love you and your wife!! thanks for the recommendation.

Alacarte, can you read Italian? I have a gorgeous reference, cookbook: "Specialita' d'Italia" Le Regioni in cucina", looks like the publisher is "Konemann" Also Slow Food does a series of books on meat, cheese, etc. that has great regional reference info. Like what a cut of meat is called in different areas...but, again I'm not sure if its available in English.

Ciao Ore! funny...I was just thinking about you and wondering how you were doing! The funghi season has begun here in Umbria, but its unseasonably cold...so you are just much, much better off in Calif!!

Yo! Kellytree...we need to help this guy out!! You do the fish...I'll do the meat. OK? First thing: what's your access to really good salumi, sausage, prosciutto, fresh porcini, guanciale, pancetta? Try this for an antipasto: guanciale with fresh bay leaves. Get pan hot-hot. Toss in the guanciale and melt the fat, don't scorch, when you have enough fat in the pan, and its hot, toss in the bay leaves. They should only need a few seconds to get crispy. Finish with a little white wine vinegar. Eat quickly. Seriously addicitive. Umbrian food is all about contadini food, and the orto. I'll dig around and pick out some of my best recipes. But, keep the 'brace' fire going...grilled meats is truly the taste of Umbria. And lots of lamb, on the grill or scotto ditto style. Right now we've had excellent conditions for early porcini, and every one is canning the pomodori. Its also apparently the season for chickens laying eggs....all of my neighbors have been giving me eggs...do I look protein deficient or something?? Frittatas and omelettes are big on the Umbrian home fire. I'll stop rambling and go do some homework for you, ok? ciao! P.s. to cook something 'in porchetta' in Le Marche speak means to cook it with fennel. Confusing if you ask me...

Well, Pontorno...since you asked..... I will try to explain my reaction to the University as best and as fairly as I can; bearing in mind that the school is brand new and the curriculum will undoubtably grow and change as time goes by. As part of the Ital.cook/Slow Food program, our class was invited to tour the University this spring. The Ital.cook program is geared to chefs and the University has entirely different goals. Now, here is where I get a bit fuzzy on the concept of the University. They are quite adamant and proud that there isn't a kitchen or pot or pan or bain marie in the entire facility. Alice Waters, who is on the board, was not permitted to plant a garden. The University is dedicated to the theories of gastronomy. My understanding, from speaking to a current student who was taking a course on the fundamentals of tasting was that after 2 or 3 months, they had worked up to their first tasting. What did they taste? Ketchup and Coca-Cola. Honestly, I'm not at all sure what to make of that. It truly depends on what you want to take away from the course. If your entire focus is on food journalism, this might be the place for you. Beyond that, I'm not at all clear what you would take away from this exceedingly esotertic take on gastronomy. My overall impression of the student body was that they are all quite young and this is not an especially demanding school. Read into that what you will, I'm trying to be diplomatic. But, all of us from the Ital.cook program were exceedingly bewildered by the decision not to have any hands on experience with food. Why? To theorize about a garden is one thing....but to feel the dirt...brings an entirely different understanding. Secondo me. Hopefully, someone who has actually participated in the school will come forward with more solid information than the impressions I came away with in one day. Best of luck! Warm regards.

We are just a little south of Citta di Castello...and yes, I'm a very lucky girl. Centrally located to lots of good stuff....truffles, sausage, salumi....

Linda, would you mind saying a little more about concrete and sealers? Why are they so bad? I'm asking because I've been working on one, and it been lovely to work on. Other than a big crack, the surface has held up well. Its only been a year that its been sealed, but it seems ok.... Thanks.

Thank you for taking the time and effort to report on these restaurants. We only live down the road a piece from Locanda Gambero Rosso...so guess where I want to go now.... p.s. I had no idea you were the Sage of eGullet. Impressive.

Ciao Kevin! The August onslought of guests has finished, the sheets are washed and ready for the next batch of visitors, and finally the computer is mine again! (by way of explaining why I haven't been around much). Your new house looks lovely, complementi! auguri! And an orto! Ortos are a wonderful thing. Do you think you can find SanMarzano tomatoes to plant next year? We've had such a good time with our first experimental orto this year, and the giant patch of artichokes went in last week to replace the onions and carrots. I'll think of you as they grow. I want to try and find some unusual varieties of vegetables for next year, and of course we are already planning on enlarging the orto... its addicitive. Back to Calabria: it all looks very, very good to me! Can you paraphrase that chicken arrabiata recipe? I'm kind of a weinie when it comes to chilies, but everyone I cook for likes their food spicy. And what's for dinner tonight?? p.s. I love the color of the dining room! If I wasn't on dial up I'd post a photo of my 'pumpkin bisque colored kitchen! Beige is just sooooo....beige, you know!

Funny thing about eating a restaurant, its not just about the food. Robert makes mention of feeling uncomfortable being one of only two other tables, and he's right, it is uncomfortable. Its like throwing a party and no one comes. But when a restaurant gets it right, its unforgettable. Just now I was searching eGullet for something when I came across Boris's description of Il Sole. That was a wonderful evening, from the moment we walked in. The head chef was enthusiastic and could not have been happier when we all agreed to just put oursevles in their hands. Go ahead, dazzle us, and they did. From the fantastic apertivo of an ice cold gin fizz sipped thru warm foam to each successive course of treats for the tongue, and that fantastic basil gelato. It was a fabulous evening, remembered for the food, the good company and the cheerful enthusiasm radiating from the kitchen and the wine cellar. I'd go back in a heart beat (and stay in the very comfortable lodgings). Thanks for reminding me, Boris! We had a similiar, magical kind of lunch at I Setti Consoli in Orvieto recently. Wandered in off the street, into the garden that seemed as if it were on a floating island far from the crowds, and proceeded to be dazzled by the kitchen and their enthusiasm for what they were sending out to feed us. There was a heavy reliance on beautiful vegetables presented at their peak. It was an unforgettable lunch.

Ciao Kevin!! I've been missing in action for a week or so. My house has been crammed with people...and either I've been cooking for them, or someone's needed the computer. Must be August in Italy! What happened to doing Umbria?? I love the sound of the watermelon gelee... I've done a few and they are lovely on a hot day. I'm still trying to find the time to make some cannoli to see if I get "stickage" on my new cannoli molds. Alberto, thanks god for you and your cheese info! Caciocavallo appears in every single market, and its always some variation on the same theme. Very region specific with a very generic name is my take on it. I know nothing about Basilicato ....even how to spell it is beyond me! But I do know about A Mano Primitivo, and it is good! We've had such large armies of mouths to feed everyday, I've taken to going to the local cantina for 'fill-er-ups", and now, I'm craving something that comes with a cork!! I loved the vegetables when we studied Calabria. Kevin do you have some info on roasting the vegetables over rock salt? Its a great way to do vegetables and I've been experimenting with all sorts of variations on it. Those sweet onions just make a bland soup...try some sort of agro dolce with your walla-wallas. Secondo me. OK, here are some of my requests for Calabria: pita in chiusa (a pastry, you make little pinwheels of nuts and raisins, and then pack them into a round pan and bake), the pasta that you make by wrapping it around a stalk of wheat, oh, and lots and lots of zucchini flowers!! Let me know if you need some recipes. And I agree with I think its Judith Umbria, the cookbooks that are regional are superior to the compilations. Ciao Judith!! I'm Judith too, and I'm living in Umbria. Piacere! Kevin, can you read enough Italian to decipher recipes? There's a lovely book on Umbria I can ship off to you. OK, and like what's for dinner???? And! my birthday is coming up...don't I get to suggest some sort of ingredient that you HAVE to work with? (see...it was much easier when I was quiet!!) ciao!! Happy Weekend...or Feroaugusto!!

We went to Castello di Sorci on Saturday night, and had a lovely, lovely time. Thank you Marlena. It was just as you described, long outdoor tables, open bottles of wine and food that just kept on coming. Excellent renditions of all the classics, crostini, tagliatelle, roasted meats etc. etc. And then the music started! A very gentle Fellini movie. Can't wait to go back.

Many thanks for the invite, and its lovely that you are co-ordinating this fun event again, but I can't make it. 'cause we're still in Italy. Have fun everyone!!

Good point Divina! I forgot about the tipo 00 factor. The other thing I was thinking about last night (see how we all think of you Kevin ), is maybe you should fry them longer than you might think is necessary. I know we fried ours a long time... they were very brown and crunchy. Part of the very brown though was due to using a red wine dough. But we didn't take them out of the oil until they were very nearly burnt. And we didn't wait for the tubes to cool down before handling, but honestly, a cool tube would be a whole lot nicer to work with....

OK, here's a question among friends: does anyone else dream scents? The other night I woke up smelling fresh sardines..which I happen to adore. But the scent was so strong, I literally had to get up to check to see if there was any fish in the bedroom. There wasn't. Sometimes, I'll just dream of my grandmothers scent: Jean Nate body splash with maybe a hint of onion. Tonight the house smelled of Thanksgiving! I had to to cook some turkey breast for tommorows lunch, and in the heat, the smell of Thanksgiving was just disorienting!

store bought cannoli tubes are nasty, usually. Do you slip the cannoli off as soon as it comes out of the oil? or wait for some cool down? I don't know what difference that would make, I'm just trying to figure out why they would stick. Further experimentation is required....

Buon compleano a Mrs. Kevin72!! What a feast!! Hey, my birthday is in a couple of weeks, can I suggest an ingredient too? I already live vicarously thru this thread....! We made a strawberry gelato brioche sandwich in class, and I truly only tasted it out of professional curiosity, I mean, it just sounds too weird. But, you know what, I went back and tried a lemon sorbetto brioche! Its a strange, but very good combo. Bummer about the cannoli tubes... I don't think its the tubes, maybe its the pasta recipe? Have you fooled around with that? What kind of filling/topping did you make? I'm no dolce maker either, by a long stretch, I just don't have a sweet tooth, but we made a filling that was just whipped ricotta and sugar, that's all, and it was light and delicious. But god they are a lot of work! Ciao!

Once again, eG to the rescue, very glad some one resurrected this thread! Yesterday, we noticed that the elderberry tree was just hanging with fruit. So we picked some, and as an experiment made 2 kinds of jam, one with sugar and one with local honey (I was going for DOC on this jam ). Both came out great, and tommorow I'm planning on putting on long pants and finding a ladder. Couple of questions: what's the difference between: jam-jelly-preserves-conserves? My canning books are all back in NY, and I'm in Italy...so I'm a little lost. I'm going to try and get some reference books, but by the time they get here, the season will be over, so please forgive my questions. Its been awhile since I've done serious canning, but the fruit right now is just fabulous and extremely cheap. Anybody know what can be done with watermelon? I've had the watermelon rind jelly, but it didn't exactly rock my world. I miss berries....all this talk of strawberry jam is making me homesick....