jamiemaw

Merlin, I'll gladly cede you Charlottetown as I ate mainly bivalves and crustacea, and several variations on the native spud (and not necessarily in restaurants), and had my eyes been closed I suppose it could have as easily been Kennebunkport as suburban Green Gables. But in Quebec City, each day we went to the farms (too bad the Globe missed Le Jardin des Chefs last week) and then followed the products back onto the plate that night--from foie gras to extraordinary vegetables. Distinctive: A sense of place via a sense of taste. And from the pans of guys who know when to get out of the way. I do think that our cuisine spins on a north:south axis, again because of ingredients and the accessiblity/casual factor. So for anyone requiring the shorthand that apparently plagues the media, Cascadia is likely as good a moniker as any. No doubt sub-woofers too Steve. As for me, when not making risotto in a canoe, I'm pretty much sticking to the micro-niches of Alternative Wallooon Gospel and Adult Contemporary Latvian Hillbilly. And Coop is absolutely right of course. Culinary Chauvinism is about as interesting a forensic science as sifting thru Don Cherry's cravate collection. But in saying that, the most interesting places to eat in remain for me the ones that identify themselves. And hopefully that runs a little farther than the metaphorical butter tart. Cheers, Jamie

Stovetop, An interesting discussion. In the aviation industry, Canada is known as a "long, thin route", i.e. the population and therefore the marketplace is peppered along the 49th parallel. In the US, the geographic market is as deep as it is broad. In dining in several Candian cities last summer with a variety of proprietors and food writers, one distinction became abundantly clear: some cities have a distinctive (or regional cuisine) whereas some do not. In the 'do' column, you would find Quebec City, Charlottetown, Vancouver and Victoria. In the 'do not' column, you'd find Calgary and Toronto. Montreal and the prairie capitals enjoy a quasi-regional cuisine, but it is much more apparent in the summer months. Vancouver might be the most exciting labratory of them all, because in addition to now enjoying a disitinctive local cuisine (quite different than, say, Seattle's, although the ingredients are similar), there are some other elements at work too: First, unlike Toronto and Calgary, we are not an expense account city. So it follows that expensive, imported ingredients are only featured in a few restaurants. It also follows that local chefs are more inclined to work with what they have on their doorstep (and is less expensive), especially now that it's fashionable to do so. Second, we like to eat casually and accessibly. In writing about the local tapas or small plates phenomenon six years ago, we found out that for chefs and food writers in other cities (New York, Los Angeles, San Francisco, Chicago) small plates weren't even on the radar. We got a stunned silence on the other end of the line. (If you were to unravel the culinary DNA of the trend, by the way, it would lead you to the corner of Davie and Burrar--to Bin 941). Third, we have a high ratio of restaurants to population. Fourth, since 1986 we have benefitted from a remarkable incursion of diverse cultures that have conributed distinctive flavours at hysterically low prices. Last, the cost of leasehold space is still fairly reasonable, especially as compared to London and New York. So add all these up and ask again: "Do we have a Canadian cuisine?" I don't think so, because all cuisines, like politics, should be local. I think we have much more in common with Seattle, Portland and San Francisco than we do with Toronto or Montreal. And that isn't just because we share those common ingredients, but also because we share a common attitude about what we eat and how we do it, and not just because of our pan-Canadian obsession with the butter tart. Cheers, Jamie

Haven't we just all been in a tizzy awaiting the arrival of Go Fish and Chambar? Well here's the deal as of a few minutes ago: Gord Martin is scrambling to open in time for the long weekend at Go Fish. The beer is cold, the pans seasoned, the larder full, and the stove burnt-in at Chambar. And, after scouring the city for some panic bars for the emergency exit doors, Chambar's proprietors were waiting for the city inspector to revisit this afternoon to sign off on their occupancy permit. Should be good-to-go tonight or tomorrow. Jamie

Hi halland These Parkside reviews might fuel your memories: here and encore! Cheers, Jamie

Whew, thanks for sharing halland. As demure Canadians we tend to keep these thoughts to ourselves. I had no idea that Piccolo Mondo was offering this new service--anything to drum up a little more business I suppose. Sorry to hear about the less than stellar evening at PM though, where over the years we've enjoyed some very good cooking from Stephane Meyer and the colour commentary from owner Michele Geris. I still rate their fish soup amongst the best in town. The wine list pricing problem is ironic, as Michele and her husband are the importers of an inexpensive Italian wine that retails for $7.95 and is one of the biggest sellers in the province. No excuse for your experience though. We were a little taken aback by your statement that Parkside hasn't gotten much play--it's been quite widely reviewed and in mainly laudatory form; Andrey's a great guy and cook. We've reviewed the restaurant twice in the last six months or so. Artigiano barrista and partner Sammy Piccolo just won second place at the World Barrista Championships in Italy. And yes, like you we enjoy it strong. Coop --you are doing yourself a disservice if you skip Lark. Jonathan Sundstrom is one of the cleanest cooking chefs in the PNW. He was a real credit when he was at Earth + Ocean at the W Hotel, although it was sad to often see the bar full and the restaurant empty. Go. Cheers, Jamie

Hey Coop, Excellent euphemism for 'Designated Driver', Coop. As long as he's allowed to stay up late--we'd hate to see a premature Coop d'Etat. Jamie

Daddy-A What a kind offer. And Chef and I will get to work on a reasonably priced four-courser that will promote flavour but not too much expense--the key being to turn out as many friends of this forum as possible without bankrupting our host. Once we have a menu and price, I suggest that we then publish a separate thread called something like Egullet Dinner Invitation--An Evening of Awesome Bucco. Or some such thing. Back to you shortly, Jamie

DameD, Presume that you're referring to the article in Bon Appetit penned by Nancy Grimes, the wife of William 'Biff' Grimes, who retired 8 months ago after a five year stint as restaurant critic for the New York Times. It's well written and full of pet peeves, several of them specific to New York: being held captive in the bar or vestibule, flat Champagne, hatred of one's own cooking and the usual service misfires . . . And she gets off an amusing line, "For most people, the job of food critic, like that of movie reviewer, travel writer, or mattress tester sounds like a dream come true--a never-ending vacation on somebody else's dime. For those who actually do the work (my italics), however, the dream can become a nightmare. When? In my case, about two years and two dress sizes after the first palate-teasing amuse ." You have asked if it's a love or hate thing for me. I can only answer that, of the four jobs that she cites above, I have only tried three (movie reviewing has little appeal), and that of the three my strong preference is to eat. And drink. Afterwards, the mattress testing comes easier than the layperson might think. Kindest regards, Jamie

May I suggest that anyone interested in both meeting Mr. Bourdain and meeting fellow egulleteers book for the Opus event from 5 to 7. Then we'll take a show of hands, work together with Chef Neil at the Hamilton Street Grill to design a four course menu, with drinks from 7:15 to 7:45, dinner following. Make sense? Jamie

Well, it seems that everyone’s hit most of the beefly hotspots to which I would add one, Earls, for its good value sirloin in front of hockey games, and embellish another. That’s because last week Eva and I had a very good meal at the Hamilton Street Grill Danish, she is fond of all the meat varieties and the entire dairy family. So get ready, because I’m about to tell you what Chef Neil is far too modest to. He started us with a chefly flourish—several items that he had prepared for one of his recent monthly wine tastings (for which he charges a measly $15 - $20): steamed oysters with jalapeno granita (Burrowing Owl Piot Gris); Pancetta-wrapped, butter-poached scallop (Tinhorn Gewurtz); and something else illegible but delicious judging by the splotch of sauce on my notes paired with Quail’s Gate Marechal Foch. I had a small taste of the smoked tomato soup. It was deeply flavoured but over-salted, which for me is making a statement. The main events were terrific—a great peppercorn New York steak ($28); 6 ounce tenderloin with a feisty gorgonzola demi ($28); and a truly Jurassic portion of lamb shank osso buco ($20—a steal). We had beautifully whipped potatoes (actually butter bound with a small amount of spud) and grilled vegetables rode shotgun. Breads were good, including a foccacia that could give the Sealy Posturpedic folks a good run. Wine glasses were big and wines were served at correct temperatures. Desserts were nicely made with a selection of housemade ice creams. The gingerbread cake dessert is a signature that Neil will never be able to take off the menu even if he wanted to. The next table shared a gorgonzola fondue with baguette as a starter for just $9. There are lots of seafood selections. Neil outfitted the room himself (including a 30-seat private room) which exudes warmth. The service, from a waiter named Walter, was very well-informed. It became pretty clear over the course of the evening that he and the other servers knew a lot of the customers well--they were clearly regulars in the restaurant. We have had lots of additional positive feedback from other parties, including a party of 10 that were in the other night. Nice going. Jamie

Jack and Jill, How was your weekend in Whistler? Anything exciting to report on? Did you make it to the Four Seasons or Apres? Do dish. Jamie

Scargo, Than you very much for sharing your dry rub recipe. And yes, we would like to see you chili recipe. But, with the greatest of respect, we have to take issue with this statement: Does this mean that you'll be taking George W. back in November? Please confirm. Yours, Jamie Maw

Thanks very much for your heartfelt (and detailed) input everyone. Jamie

Scargo, There are a number of casual dining opportunities available in HHS and area, and a few that are more elevated. The best all-round dining experience is at Rustica at 310 Hot Springs Road, a short and pleasant walk from the hotel. It's in charming premises (the oid Cote d'Azur) and is consistently good without breaking the bank. For lunch, I recommend a 15-minute drive to Rownena's Inn on the River in nearby Harrison Mills. The River's Edge Restaurant at the Sandpiper Golf Course (it's owned by Rowena's) is a very pleasant place to have a casual bite on the banks of the river. Lovely walk along the bank as well. We understand that Rowena's has a new chef, and that would provide a dinner opportunity but considerably more expensive. Either way, have your realtive take a peek inside the inn--it's charming in a Bob Newhart kind of way and the salon has two concert grand pianos. Back in HHS, the Black Forest has dependable if somewhat hefty German food. Charlie's on the Lake is fine for a drink and view but the food is not recommended. No visit to Harrison Hot Springs is complete without a visit to The Copper Room which is located within the resort. It's a retro supper club experience--prime rib and fish dishes, but well-prepared, followed by dancing to the fabulous Jones Boys who cover every get-up-and-dance hit from Elvis forward. We love it. My brother is an executive with the HHS Resort, and would be pleased to enhance your relative's visit and dining experiences. Please send me a private message via this site, including the name of the party and dates, and I'll relay his contact information to you. Kind regards, Jamie If you

Mr. Bourdain's handlers got back to us pronto via the PR director at Raincoast. He will not be available between 7 to 8 pm. There is a chance he might come along after the Bar None event. My suggestion would be to convene the dinner at 7 for 7:30 at Neil's fine establishment--a terrific way to put faces to handles. Cheers, Jamie

i just spoke to the PR person at Raincoast Books. I mentioned both the 7pm and 10pm slots. She's going to get back to me shortly. Idaelly, it might be best if he were able to join in for drinks and canapes (bison legs etc.) at 7, and perhaps return at 10 for dessert (Nanaimo bars, fruit leatrhers). Jamie

Neil, Chambar is opening on the 21st although they mis-installed Nico's stove today. The furniture has arrived, the painting's about to start, countertops installed etc. Most importantly though, the chill lockers for the beer are running like tops and, even better, the lines are short as the lockers are IN THE BAR. It's going to be a handsome room. Nicco's wife Karri has superb design sense and shopped in Italy and Belgium for all of the furniture (a blend of old leather tub chairs, a 10-foot button backed chesterfield, and sleeker dining room furniture) and tableware herself. Her father made the 40 dining room tables. Lots of interesting art, including a Marhta Sturdy sculpture, and a definite European feel, right down to the newspapers in the front lounge. Upon review, the menu's a treat too--combining Rwandan (Nico was born there) and other African flavours with his more classically-inspired Belgian repertoire. It struck me when walking the space on the weekend that, unlike a lot of North American cities, we've been the real beneficiaries recently of some smart but informal rooms serving great food at decent prices. Parkside, Cru, Bis Moreno, Aurora and a number of others leap to mind. friends who just returned from New York to plunder the crop of ballyhooed new rooms like Per Se certainly agreed. Per Se, by the way cost US $12 million versus CDN $500,000 for Chambar. The prices, of course, reflect the difference. Our friends were allowed to keep their seats for just under two hours at Babbo, whereas at Per Se it was an evening-long production, and although delicious, they got a little fatigued after course 11. Help me Rwanda, Jamie

Our favorites: 1. Bernie, who used to be on West 49th (near Magee High), then West 16th, then Richmond, has resurfaced to run the meat counter at Magee Grocery at 49th and West Boulevard. He has a particularly good handle on Oregon and BC lamb. 2. Jackson's on South Granville (the 4th Avenue location closed in the spring after almost a century in the same location; unfortunately Brian Jackson died shortly afterward.) But Geoff Jackson runs an immaculate shop. and it has the additional advantage of being next door to Mackinnon's Bakery and two decent Chinese grocery stores. For the summer, dial ahead and ask Geoff for well-aged "deep cut sirloins"--about 2 and a half inches thick (around two to three pounds). Start them over high heat and then move them to a cooler part of the grill. Just oil, salt and pepper. The most flavoursome steaks we've found, sliced on the bias they'll feed five or six people each. Good chickens and turkeys too. 3. Armando's, Granville Island. Where Rob Feenie buys his roasts (excellent prime rib) and short ribs. 4. Chutter Ranch organic beef from Merritt. This stuff needs lots of age and it's not for everyone. The sirloins have a chew and big beefy flavour. They're also quite lean--but we love the punch. 5. Safeway. What, you say? The sirloin steaks in the value-paks (four or five for about $25) are a delicious bargain, fried in oil and butter and finished with good salt. Jamie

On West 10th Avenue between Alma and Highbury, on the north side, unfortunately in that same space recently occupied by the enormously unoccupied Asia. Let's hope that someone has a lovely pair. Yours, etc. J D Maw

A few random notes on Tofino that I hope you find helpful: Andrew Springett, former (and excellent) restaurant chef at Diva at the Met is now at The Wick. I have to think he's going to do good things for that room. The other venues where we've had good success have been: Clayoquot Long Beach Lodge (although like everyone else I've been reading about their recent challenges) Shelter Sobo I'm curious about Pamplona and RainCoast and I'd be very interested in further suggestions, especially from Tofino locals, chefs or otherwise. Let's talk soon, Jamie

Here's the deal with Anthony Bourdain, at least as I understand it. Booksellers now 'bid' with the publisher to host well known/celebrity authors at their stores (typically now with a charitable component as well), although in this case Barabara-jo is obviously using two adjacent venues. Because her tender came with a cost attached, we can be assured that Mr. Bourdain will be signing books and gladhanding at Opus and Bar None at a high rate of knots. But you will notice that they have allowed an hour of downtime between the events (to scoot upstairs for a cleansing ale and some cobra hearts), and that the latter one is over at 10pm, which would mean an unusually early bedtime for the lad, even if he's in the middle of a 20+ city book tour. So therein lies the opportunity. Neil, I think you should approach Barbara-jo, invite her to join in the dinner at 10pm, as well as the Raincoast handler and Mr. Bourdain's roadie. Alternatively, perhaps we could price the Fowke/Wyles/Hamilton Street Grill dinner to include a book and ask him to attend at 7pm to kick things off. Cheers, Jamie

Paul Mitchell President's Choice has long been my preferred supplier.

Coop--welcome home. Clearly the International Conference of Marine Hardware Chandlers took longer than expected. Or was it convened in the Dead Sea again? While you were away, nothing happened. Nothing at all. Well, that's not quite true. It is the silly season after all: 1. Unbelievably, Mr. Keith Talent, swallowing his pride (and not a little seawater as it turned out), took the lesser Talents to Hawaii for a holiday. Appears he had discovered that the Harmony Airways all-inc package at the Waikiki Palms Royale ("A Sunny Place for Shady People" as they bill it) was actually cheaper than his pro forma week in Parksville--and no annoying ferry line-ups!) Gosh, the next thing you know he'll be off on a wine-tasting tour in the Okanagan. Knowing him, he'll take the lid from his Nyquil bottle to sample the wines and then complain bitterly that the vintners are cheating his palate. By the way, he gave an almost unilateral thumbs down to neo-Tiki cuisine. But emptying the sand out of his bathing suit raised the municipality of Richmond a helpful half-inch above sea level. 2. It was announced that Anthony Bourdain, the chef and culinary tourist, would be visiting Vancouver to promote his new line of "Les Halles" fine linens, steak knives and assorted hostess ware. But here's a Sophie's Choice for you, an absolute conundrum, a scheduling conflict of monumental proportion: It's the same night as the Judd Nelson Film Festival! 3. According to industry insiders, the editor of an intermittently published tabloid started a fake blogsite (masquerading as young groovy restaurateurs) with the express purpose of slagging her competitors. She was sniffed out in about 40 seconds and the blog disappeared in a puff of ill will. You may recall that she used to post on this site under another (ironic if not clever) fake name. Some called the petite fiasco a tempest in a stock pot while others said it was more of a laughing stock defrocked. 4. During the mid-July heat wave, James Beard appeared in the dreams of several Lower Mainland chefs, fervently admonishing them "to cook local." However one chef (Maurice Belcher-Hay of Horseshoe Bay’s Chez Hay!), who suffers a hearing impediment, thought The Great Man had said Searching Epicurious.com for cannibal recipes of the New Hebrides, he introduced a dish called Blackened Group the next night on his specials card but, not unsurprisingly perhaps, sold only two portions, which, as you know, is several short of a group.5. Rhonda Greatbatch-Jonker, the fleshily-thighed host of the new reality vegan cooking show, "No Harm, No Fowl" was busted outside the Broadway KFC with a bucket of all white meat under her arm. Busted by no less than intrepid investigative food reporter Ron Canola of the Food Underground Canada Network (FUCN). Canola, who bears an uncanny resemblance to a younger Colonel Sanders but with a damper handshake, apparently startled her by shoving his FUCN microphone in her face. Her flimsy defense: "Research purposes." 6. But in a week of journalistic glory, the courageous and outspoken Canola trumped that by scooping every other food reporter in town with an outstanding recipe for spruce bud worms. He even posted it on his blogsite free of charge! And no secret herbs and spices involved! 7. Ken Kostick, star of Ken Kostick and Company , who occupied the insomniac slot at Rude Food Network Canada, has seemingly had his show cancelled. Or maybe he's merely on summer hiatus. Whatever, graveyard-shift hairdressers and breakfast prep chefs across the country complained bitterly. Network staff are reportedly looking into the matter. 8. A Kerrisdale restaurant, The Sea Lion, specializing in aquatic mammals, opened and then closed quietly. 9. The first bottle of British Columbia non-ice wine to sell for more than $80 a bottle was launched with a splash at the Peachland VQA store. The White Knuckle Ridge Fire King Cellarmaster’s Selection is a meritage of grenache, white zinfandel and pinot nero. But apparently it was all a big mistake. Winery spokesman Niles Flush said, “It was all a big mistake. It’s a case that retails for $80. This is a low-priced, refreshing, consumer-friendly wine aimed at the entry level drinker. It is best served ice-cold or not at all. More sophisticated palates may prefer our K Syrah ($7.95).” Vancouver Sun summer replacement wine columnist Wyng Chow reported it as “having notes of classy raccoon urine and scorched pine resin—this wine is sure to gain dominance in its $6 price niche—hold for drinking until 2018.” 10. Vancouver, the No-Fun City, also reclaimed its lockhold on the title "Politically Correct Capital of the World". The BC Lions football team was assailed by PETA for its use of an animal as its name/mascot/logo etc. Citing this “crime against the animal kingdom, especially the large cat category,” PETA reportedly launched an injunction against the use of the Lion as emblem for the club. What surprised many observers though was how quickly Lions management capitulated. After testing many alternate names in focus groups, management held a press conference announcing the new name, The Vancouver Legumes. The club also debuted their new logo and slogan: “So Much More than a Hill of Beans.” Catchy. 11. F. Morris Chatters resigned abruptly as Communications Director and Celebrity/VIP Host for Skybar Lounge. Although the reasons, delivered tersely in a scant three sentence press release mentioned “personal reasons” it is widely rumoured that the resignation was the result of a rude letter that Chatters had sent to internationally famous food and wine writer Andy Lynes. The letter suggested that Lynes would only be welcomed back on the Skybar premises if he “posted a modest damage deposit” or “wrote a favourable review” of the lounge’s meat leathers and other bar snacks. Lynes was unavailable for comment, but it seems that just one angry overseas call from the influential journalist was all it took to send Chatters packing back to Richmond. 12. Heineken went on sale briefly for $20 per dozen. But with the Provincial Liquor Monopoly’s usual uncanny timing, that was the only day it rained this summer. 13. The Freybe Sausage Company, manufacturers of smoked meats and hockey snacks with a superior shelf life, turned 160. As I said Coop, nothing happened while you were away. Absolutely nothing at all. But welcome home anyway, Jamie

vandan Chambar actually enjoys a street level location with pretty easy parking right outside. They have a variance proposal before city hall to provide a small Euro-styled patio. The rooms will be gorgeous: high ceilings throughout, original hardwood floors. interesting colour schemme and comfortable furniture--they'll want you to stay awhile. The bar/lounge area is streetside (about 35 seats), a mid-section of dining seats will be located near the kitchen, and then a lovely dining area of 55 seats that will enjoy an unusual nightime view of the lights of Science World and Citygate through large picture windows. Cheers, Jamie

jackand jill Delighted to hear you’re going up the hill. May I make a suggestion in the form of a progressive dinner/dine-around? We found it a good use of our time, especially as much of the creativity was more apparent in the appetizer/raw bar menus. So here’s a list of places that you can access easily, order a couple of plates or more, then move on. It’s also more budget-friendly. Araxi Quattro Fifty Two 80 Zen or Sushi Village Val d’Isere Après Bearfoot Bistro Champagne Bar (Oyster special) Chef Bernard’s remains our favourite for reasonably priced breakfast—try it on Sunday and take in the market too. Here are some sample items from the Fifty Two 80 dinner menus: Raw Bar Oysters $2 Salmon Tasting $15 Seafood Platter $16/person Shellfish Platter $24/person Firecracker Roll $10 Sashimi plate $12 First Steps Onion Soup $9 Salmon Chowder $9 Moules Frites $15 Tuna Carpaccio/ asparagus/avocado $12 Crab Cocktail $16 Salads Valley Greens $10 Caesar $12 Bibb lettuce pear blue cheese, walnut dressing $14 Golden beet & Goat cheese $12 Large Plates Seaffod Pappardelle $18 Forest fettucine $18 Lobster $36 Braised halibut Artichokes/clams $28 Wild Salmon $28 Arctic Char/morels $26 Black Cod/sweet peas $26 Snapper Bouillabaisse $24 Coq au Vin $22 Spit Lamb leg $30 Chicken $26 Pork Roast top eye $26 Grills range from $26 for wild salmon to $48 for a 14 ounce New York Steak Sauces include béarnaise, red wine, peppercorn, tomato salsa There is a selection of additional vegetable sides at $5 per Desserts are $9 Wine Snapshot Gl Btl Sumac Ridge Brut 10 36 Blue Mtn Gold Label Brut 46 Mission Hill Pinot Grigio 9 36 Burrowing Owl Pinot Gris 46 Cedar Creek Plat Chard 16 64 Inniskillin Dark Horse PN 13 52 Black Hills Nota Bene 77 La Frenz Merlot 51 Kistler Chardonnay 185 Andrew Rich Pinot Noir 97 Cedar Creek Plat Res PN 70 Who knows, it might be fun to take a widely available BC wine and compare by the glass prices around the town. Hope this is helpful. Jamie