jamiemaw

Is the base for the stuffing bread, Jamie, & how long do you roast the pork? ← jayhay, Yes, it's a bread-based stuffing. Stale (two day old), smallish crumb, not sourdough, half-inch cubes. As to roasting there are two methods: 1. 425 degrees for 15 minutes. Turn oven down to 350, 15 (convected)-18 minutes per pound, so for a 7 pound roast, about 1:45 to 2 hours. We prefer it less well done. I've seen recipes that call for up to 2.5 hours but, in our opinion, that is too far gone--we're looking for great, moist chops. 2. My fiancee reminded me that the last time we prepped crown roast using a slow roast/lower temp method it was unstuffed. I'm loathe to suggest a slow roasting time for a stuffed crown. 3. Don't forget to foil the bone ends.

I'm definitely more of a vice versa kind of guy.

Richmond, that's where the airport is right? I thought I needed a passport to go there. I can honestly say I have never dined anywhere in Richmond, except at the airport Starbucks, and that's not really dining. For some reason when I think of going out to eat, Richmond is usually the farthest place from my mind (and house). ← I would venture that the dining in Richmond, in terms of diversity, value and even the odd whiff of exotica, over the past decade and with the exception of Vnacouver proper, has developed more strongly than in any other area of BC. But now I want to prove that thesis, and eat my way through it more thoroughly. We'll discuss the opportunity further on November 5th; F. Morris Chatters has kindly volunteered to act as squadron leader. He reports that he misses Sven the chef more than his wife and that he'd really like to have Sam for dinner.

A little OT perhaps? Having said that .... ... has anyone seen the "extras" on the Supersize Me DVD? You'll never eat those fries again! Getting back on topic ... I've never been to William Tell either I mention that because based on all the press it's been receiving (anniversary and all) it sounds like I'm one of the few who hasn't. A. ← No fry zone? McDonald's used to fry their spuds in beef tallow, but alas, political correctness intercepted umami. As for the fact that you've had 40 years to visit Erwin Doebeli, Daddy-A, only time Will Tell. But my suggestion is that you take the family for the Swiss Farmer's Dinner which plays every Sunday. Free advice: Don't eat lunch beforehand.

And, in fact, McDonald's fries are substituted occasionally in upstream restaurants. I was at a dinner at the old Moustache Cafe in North Vancouver when a dinner-mate had a sudden pang for steak frites. Only one problem--there was no discussion whatsover of the latter item on the menu. "No problem," said Mikel Kantor, the very amusing waiter (now maitre d' at Elixir). Kantor had chef fire a steak, then galloped two blocks west, supersized, and plated the meal. For clarity, he left the fries--excuse me, the frites--in their jolly red container. "Now, I don't suppose you have any ketchup?" my dining companion asked. "I'll be right back," Kantor announced to all.

Maw aussi.

Indeed. "Garden City" never really took off. Maybe they should rename some of those numbered streets while they're at it. Ellie's Place has a certain ring to it, while Chatter's Boulevard may not work for everone, although Curry Mee Home has a certain notion of gospel to it. But U-Pick Avenue sounds like a cheap pun. Truth be known, "by-the-sea" et al is not without its perils. You'll note that San Francisco is soft-peddling its old marketing moniker "Baghdad-by-the-Bay" these days. Free pint on November 5th to anyone who can answer what post-WWII restaurant had "by-the-sea" in its name? Free Hints: It was a room with a view and its successor restaurant had the famous Truman Stanyer tinkling the ivories. Keith, we've had GPS and sonar since I was riding a trike. But mysteriously, it always seems to cut out in Wyoming. But to bring us back on topic, who's up for a tour of Asian markets and restaurants in Richmond? I, for one, would like to get Shanghaied. J.

Do I detect another dinner coming on?? Let's discuss on the 5th. ← A dinner, Daddy-A? How 'bout we rent a van, start early, and get serious. I'm going to recommend Richmond. J.

Look forward to seeing it Marlene. As an addendum to my previous thoughts: 1. Mrs. H. S. Balls (regular or hot) is a good binding medium (chutney) for the stuffing but any decent Major Grey's will do. 2. For the stuffing, the best way to introduce the apple cider vinegar to the mix is to use it to acidulate the apple slices instead of lemon. Cheers, Jamie

Keith, Thanks for the directions. I've been driving out to meetings on Horseshoe Way (you know, next door to Nebraska) the past couple of months (yes, I pack a thermal blanket, sand and extra provisions in case I'm marooned), just knowing that, in the spirit of this thread, I'm passing superior dining opportunities by. No more. Had you just been quiet, we would have all assumed that the "Phenom" spelling was intentional, because of your enormous wit in other arenas, etc. But no, the Talent brand is founded on withering, unstinting honesty and, also in the spirit of this thread, you 'fessed up. We salute you. So at the risk of sounding a pedant, I feel compelled to alert you to another concern, this one a dangling modifier: This reads as though you served under Mr. V as education minister. In checking my notes of that Fan-tas-tic era, I can confirm to you that his cabinet, with the possible exception of Faye Leung, was completely devoid of Talent. We would now ask you to tuck that nasty dangler back in your sock. Seriously now, many thanks for the tips and techniques for circumnavigating the Flat Empire. Jamie

Comeback? It went away? After a long week the wife and I like to cut an iceberg in half, slather half a bottle of Thousand Island all over (Lighthouse brand is a superior product), open a case of beer and turn out the lights.

244 East Georgia Street east of Main; closed Tuesdays. Tell them you're a friend of Keith Talent. That and about $4.50 will secure you a prime table and an icy beer.

I will be. And I'm open to suggestions on how to do that ← Marlene, Your last party was such a glory that I'm almost loathe to make recommendations, but we've had the best luck with crown roast of pork: 1. Using a slow roasting temperature similar to your method for the boned prime rib, which we find keeps the beast moist. 2. Setting a coating paste over the roast of apple cider vinegar, whole grain mustard, olive oil and finely chopped sage (and just a hint--half clove) of garlic in the refigerator so that it sets up. 3. For the stuffing: We've enjoyed an apple-based one (Granny Smith) the most, with a subordinate chop of prunes and dried apricots, whole button onions with sage and a hint of cinnamon. Introducing a generous tablespoon or two of decent chutney binds, moistens, and adds complexity; a little more apple cider vinegar tweaks the high notes. 4. For the jus: Apple cider (not vinegar) and a little more whole grain mustard, chopped sage. 5. Vegetables: Roasted root vegetables and a chou rouge of red cabbage sauteed then braised in chicken stock and cider vinegar (dash of caraway seeds optional). On a slow day we might add in a spinach souffle. 6. Starch: Spuds a la dauphinoise, but we hike back slightly on the Gruyere component so that it doesn't overwhelm the pork. 7. Salad: Peppery greens like arugula, simpler the better. 8. Dessert: Lemon pudding lightens the load at the back-end. 9. A great cheese plate and Port to follow makes sense. Two other options: Head to Morocco (then your party pillows can multi-task) and substitute figs instead of prunes, cumin etc. for sage. Or towards Alsace, and use the red cabbage as a base for the stuffing. But that's a whole different story. The roast is such a traffic-stopper that you might want to think of serving wine in a large format too. And although there's a lot of acid in the early stages, after cooking it smooths and doesn't frighten the wine. Best wishes, Jamie

Keith, this is a great thread. These kind of humble admissions suggest a 12-Step program just ahead. You and the missus are on quite a roll right now given the meal you had in Richmond last week. I'm going to admit right now that I know there are places out there (including the one you mentioned and a Korean meat ball sandwich shop or two) that I've simply got to get to. I'm starting tomorrow--could you give me driving directions to a favourite sandwich shop please? Loved the clever spelling of "Phenom Penh." It reminds me of an evening in Hawaii a decade ago in a fake-Venetian restaurant replete with gondolas that were pulled on chains through concrete "canals." Our waiter, when he delivered my meal, said, "And for you sir, our signature awesome buco." It was rather Jurassic in scale I recall. Although his nametag said Mario, his real name, as I found out later, was actually Chip, even though I doubt that he participated in the technology revolution. We have taken many out-of-town food writers to Phnom Penh. Bryan Miller from the New York Times wrote a particularly memorable article about a dozen years ago (concidentally Redhead, he also included Villa del Lupo), citing many of the dishes that you enjoyed. We dined out on his fat expense account for nearly a week. By the way, there are recipes from Phnom Penh in Vancouver Cooks (and for Vij's lamb "popsicles too). I go about once a month, usually in a group. Great place for an inexpensive party too--we've entertained up to 30 people there and no matter how conservative (meat and three veg) they thought they were going in, they're all converts when they leave. Last week Helen brought out a platter of lotus roots. Phenomenal. I'm sure that Scott Mowbray, whom we called Melton during our brief overlap, returns when he visits from Brooklyn. Scott was also the subject of a hilarious food and drink roadtrip story to Seattle penned by a couple of characters. He had rented an early 90s Chevy Caprice, possibly the ugliest car ever made. The authors of the story took to calling him "Dad." A few other notes: Redhead, I'm not sure that I would call the izakaya restaurants strictly "bar food joints"--the word means bistro in Japanese and the food reflects it. I think you'll be quite impressed by some of the more upscale (but still reasonably priced) ones such as Shiru-Bay, Guu (Gastown) and Hapa--a quality night out with often sterling food. You can put another toe in the water at the Lumiere Tasting Bar. For $12 you can eat that kurri squash and mascarpone-stuffed ravioli that many diners liken to a superior sexual encounter. And lastly, Villa del Lupo is an exquisite restaurant. The food is top-drawer, very well-priced and ideal in this sort of weather. It is a slightly under-appreciated room and the chicken dish (you can watch Julio and me on Citycooks at 9am on the 28th) a tour de force of intense saucing. And the lamb osso buco (2 shanks) is, if I may say so, awesome. If not downright phenomenal.

Piccolo Mondo becomes Saveur I went to the soft opening of Saveur (850 Thurlow Street at Smithe) on Sunday evening. Chef Stephane Meyer, the first time I've ever seen him out of his whites, was casually dressed and greeting folks at the door. Guests were mainly old friends of Piccolo Mondo. Michelle Geris and George Baugh handed the restaurant over for next to nothing, and M. Meyer et sa femme have redecorated: painting, hanging fabric dividers, adding a small lounge area with soft furniture near the entrance, and a large communal table in the middle of the room. It's a softer looking room now, but with the same beautiful glassware, cutlery and linen. And Meyer has taken the menu to the left slightly, from Italy, across the Cote d'Azur to a more French-influenced place. The menu is a three course, $38 prix fixe but you'll be able to order a la carte from it very soon--although at these prices why bother. There are about a half dozen items proposed for each course; here's a random sampling from a highly skilled chef: Starters *Mediterranean fish soup (the best in town I think) with saffron ailoi *Lime-marinated salmon with smoked beach oysters, beet salad, salmon caviar, horseradish *Seared foie gras, cantaloupe, honeydew, scallions, pistachio, lemon myrtle salt ($5 supplement) Main Courses *Lightly smoked sablefish poached in tomato jus,thyme potao boulangere, artichokes, saffron creme fraiche *Lamb chops, braised lamb shoulder, roast fennel, barley, rosemary jus *Veal osso buco, potato gnocci, aspparagus Dessert *Dark chocolate torte, port ganache centre, red grape compote, whipped cream *Passion fruit nougat glace, vanill-poached mango, banana chips, dark rum froth *Almond/hazlenut dacquoise, apple cider caramel ice cream, Fuji apple raisin caviar *Honey-star anise crem brulee, lemon-marinated fruit, dried carnberry nougatine *Pistachio cake, bosc pear, Marsala sabayon, pistachio tuile, vanilla bean ice cream George Baugh's fabulous Italian wine cellar was not part of the bargain; the wine list is French-tilted but with lots of good BC bottles and reasonable by-the-glass prices starting at $5 to $6. I think it's got a good chance to become a neighbourhood favourite, but with destination traffic as well. Baugh and Geris will concentrate now on their profitable wine importing business. They introduced Farnese to BC a few years ago; reports are that it's back to No. 1 Red with about 50,000 cases sold last year. I marinate things in it all the time; occasionally even friends. They' re lauching a Sicilian white called Feudo d'Elini made from the grillio grape. They'll also be handling a lot of higher end wines. Bon chance to the two couples in their new roles and adventures.

Thanks for the tip, Montrachet. Tom and Jamie

Robb, They're far from rough and tumble, but the buildings have some history and are gorgeous: take a dozen at the Bibendum oyster bar (Fulham Road) or at J. Sheekey near Covent Garden. Gows in The City near Finsbury Circus (Old Broad Street?), Green's in Duke Street, Sheelan's in Charlotte Street (Fitzrovia) and WWI-era Bentley's in Swallow Street are dependable, but it's been a while since I made the complete circuit. Scott's (Mount Street, Mayfair near The Connaught Hotel) is extremely expensive and posh. I drink at The Audley down the street, but alas, no bivalves. And then join us please in Canada--Jamie Gallant at Rodney's Oyster House in Toronto knows every oyster shack extant in the Maritimes, especially PEI; and we have a few on this brawny coast where the beer is cold, the oysters briny and the shuckers jive. Cheers, Jamie

Heavens no, he only drinks that premium ginjo-shu artisanal stuff called Giggling Geisha. About $79 a pint as I recall from the last time he did me a favour. Tojo's? Kampaii! Jamie

This is usually about the time I run the tip of my index finger through the mandolin and have trouble locating it in the scalloped potatoes. Conundrum: Do you tell your guests? Answer: Only if they ask why you're having rice. Thoughtful of you to provide pillows. I had (mistakenly) thought sleepover dinner parties were a strictly Canadian invention, given the vast distances up here and all. Way cheaper than having a designated pilot too. Question: Horseradish or Keen's mustard? Jamie ← Um , I am Canadian Jamie Horseradish sauce ← Oops, i meant to say Western Canadian, Marlene. Chagrin is me.

Explorer, In matters of culinary sociology I frequently defer to my longtime colleague and friend Dr. Tom Celica, the acclaimed Japanese-Canadian Dean of the University of BC’s Faculty of Culinary Anthropology and Modern Living. What Tom doesn’t know about Asian cuisines in the New World doesn’t amount to a hill of azukis. And yes, to answer your next question, the Toyota Celica was indeed named after his grandfather, the famous automotive engineer who invented the 8-way electric car seat and the hatchback. I wasn’t surprised to find the disciplined, hardworking Celica at work at his office on a Sunday afternoon. Below is his report, but first it might be useful to explain to other eGulleteers that Kaiseki is a formal, highly-stylized, small plates Japanese dining dialect, based on both Buddhist and Tea ceremony traditions. “Dear Jamie, Good to hear from you with this interesting query. I trust the family is well. Despite the tremendous proliferation of both Japanese and Japanese (and for that matter Japanese) restaurants in Vancouver, Kaiseki dining never really got a foothold here as compared to Toronto for the following reasons: 1. Vancouverites (as opposed to Torontonians) have more a sense of taste than one of occasion: the formality of the kaiseki ceremony is not really something we feel comfortable doing in cut-offs and a wifebeater. 2. Vancouverites have much bigger appetites than Torontonians, borne out by Statistics Canada’s data that states that Vancouverites spend about 35% more per capita in restaurants than their eastern neighbours. Of course this explains a lot of things, but especially that Vancouverites simply don’t find the kaiseki morsels filling enough and generally go home only two-thirds full. But we’re not without manners. Many locals find it awkward, even disrespectful to the highly trained kaiseki master chef to stop for a Whopper on the way home. So many of us go to bed hungry after kaiseki. I mean, have you ever had a Japanese cheese course? 3. If you’ve been through a Japanese tea ceremony or a kaiseki ceremony once, it’s unlikely that you’d rush back the next night as the seating is uncomfortable. So Japanese restaurant proprietors in Vancouver have been investing in brand extension in other areas, such as airport neck massages, sushi vending machines and wasabi ranches. 4. Although the hockey strike has deeded us a lot of extra time, many Vancouverites are dedicating it to other pursuits this winter such as water-skiing and gardening. 5. Vancouver is not an expense account town on the scale of Toronto and few of us can afford kaiseki without government subsidy. 6. The vertical presentation that kaiseki affects has been out of favour here on the coast since the Eisenhower administration. We prefer a more “landscaped” look on our dinner plates and hence the popularity of whole fish such as halibut. 7. Once Air Canada put kaiseki in their “Hospitality” Class service, we thought it was time to move on. 8. And we thought that having Celine Dion as a spokesperson for kaiseki was a bit much. Marcel Dionne maybe. 9. Because we have drinkable wines at this end of the country, it represents another challenge. The profusion of rapid fire kaiseki micro-portions is difficult to marry to quality wines, so many Vancouver kaiseki patrons ended up just drinking Lucky Lager. And, needless to say, that didn’t really seem like going out. Notwithstanding the above, Jamie, there are Japanese restaurants such as Yoshi’s on Denman Street that will deliver a quality kaiseki experience. But I should share an amusing story with you. It seems that Yoshi, whose premises are immediately above a workout gymnasium called The Running Room, was having difficulty getting the gym sock and stale bra smell out of his restaurant. Apparently he tried everything, from Lysol to scented candles, each to no avail. So, in a fit of pique, he pulled the plug on his fish freezer and went on vacation for two weeks! You’ve got to love the guy. I trust this will answer Mr. Explorer’s query satisfactorily. Your comrade in izakaya, [signed--'Tom'] (Dr.) T. K. Celica Faculty of Culinary Anthropology and Modern Living University of British Columbia" Explorer--May I suggest that the next time you’re in town that you buy Dr. Celica a couple of pints for sharing these valuable insights. Hope this helps you out—Jamie.

Andy, no use crying fowl, because I know what you did last summer. You are so busted--and this isn't mere hearsay: We watched you polish off that confited duck shepherd's pie in record time at Feenie's last July. Remember how you revulsed us locals by asking for "a splash of HP Sauce, please" from the Condiments Sommelier? And when you threw that hissy fit when they brought you Mrs. H. S. Balls Extra Hot Chutney in lieu? How were you to know that HP Sauce is a controlled substance here, and only available by presription to men over 60 who wear bengal-striped shirts? I'm pretty sure you remember because it was the same night that you lost your shoes in the Skybar VIP Lounge and were forced to walk back to the hotel in your stocking feet. But perhaps you could resolve a couple of British butchery questions that--despite my frequent appearances in your neck of the woods--continue to bedevil me: 1. What cut exactly is the "chump" of lamb that I see so often on restaurant menus? Is it what we call the baseball sirloin here? 2. When one buys a "Best End of Beef", what cut is that? And further, what do they call the remaining bits? The "Other End?" "The Bitter End?" "The "Not-Quite-So-Good-End?" The "West End?" Perhaps we should agree on some neutral ground re the whole fowl-in-shepherd's pie controversy. Gamekeeper's Pie? Or is that something else yet again? Yours etc., Perplexed in Vancouver.

This is usually about the time I run the tip of my index finger through the mandolin and have trouble locating it in the scalloped potatoes. Conundrum: Do you tell your guests? Answer: Only if they ask why you're having rice. Thoughtful of you to provide pillows. I had (mistakenly) thought sleepover dinner parties were a strictly Canadian invention, given the vast distances up here and all. Way cheaper than having a designated pilot too. Question: Horseradish or Keen's mustard? Jamie

Two main questions here I think Chef Metcalf: 1. Yakitori restaurants actually preceded the ubiquity of sushi parlours in Vancouver. They may have even pre-dated the Ding Ho Drive-Ins (remember: where urban myth had it that neighbourhood cats mysteriously disappeared when they ran a special on sweet and sour "boneless pork".) For many of us, yakitori was the first reference point for "Japanese" cuisine, much as the exotica of the Ho Inn revealed the mysteries of China. And yakitori's main proponent, Kobe on Alberni--the house of the flashing knives--is still going today I think. It doesn't feature highly on my screen, because personally I can do without the histrionics aka "showmanship" -- I prefer my rythymic gymnastics to be demonstrated by young women twirling ribbons and not men with sharp cleavers. BTW, Kobe uses a huge griddle at each station, not a grill. You're seated around it, and if you're a good sport, sometimes with people you don't know. Pretty easy to replicate at home but use real charcoal and a slowish fire. If I remember the story correctly, the reason that you were presented your food on a paddle goes something like this: Japanese fishermen cooked their dinners at sea over hibachis but ate off their oars. No washing up, but tricky if a storm blew through during dinner. There are lots of robata dishes available around town. But sometimes the robata is performed in the back kitchen (or occasionally in front of you over those little BBQs that look like jimmied toaster ovens) where the tempura is also cooked. The most typical dish is miso-marinated smoked cod (sablefish), which, when properly done over a medium-hot grill, comes off like butter. My favourite of all time was at Yoshi's on West 4th; he is now at the Bluewater Raw Bar, although, come to think of it, I haven't ordered it from him there because I'm usually too busy with his albacore--straight up or gomae. Places with robatas: Aki at 745 Thurlow, perhaps the most authentic-feeling of the lot; Kamei Royale (1030 West Georgia, 2nd Floor); Mitsubishi (755 Burrard--entrance off Alberni) and Japone Japone (8260 Oak Street). The three most common cooking styles represented locally are sushi-dominant (I'm sure you have your favourites); izakaya (bistro food like Hapa, Guu, Shiro-Bay, Japone et al); and okonomiyaki cafes that serve Japanese "pancakes" and other kitchen food. The two best of these are Modern Club at 18th and Dunbar and Clubhouse at 2nd and Alberta. Here's an interesting website for young Japanese that describes favourites, many with an eye toward thrift. 2. How to order Chinese food is no more complicated than going out with Chinese friends or developing a relationship with a Chinese proprietor. Another alternative if you're worried that you're only seeing the Chop Suey/White Girl menu is to walk the room and, when you see something interesting, point and shoot, i.e. tell your waiter. That will guarantee that they turn up the heat and that you'll get plenty of tendon in your soup. But as a white guy with a Chinese name, there's no better way than getting to know, say, Allan at Sun Sui Wah, the guys at Pink Pearl (I had a formidable Chinese meal there last year including Monk-Jump-Over-The-Wall soup, which I'm still paying for), or just the place in your neighbourhood. I've got the guys so well trained at my local in ForMiCa (Triple XXX-tacy Fortune Gardens) that they call me when a fresh shipment of salmon eyes is inbound, or to warn me when they're about to change the pickling fluid for the fermented geoduck spleens. Makes a snappy vinaigrette. OK. Gotta go. The Seahawks are losing to the Cardinals, of all people, and clearly they require that I focus. Hope this is helpful, Jamie

Explorer, FYI, Here's a rather breathless review of Bis Moreno that we ran in conjunction with a Chef at Large (Michael Smith) installment on FNC. Jamie

An intersting observation Chef Metcalf, because while Japanese-styled restaurants (both sushi- and izakaya-driven) have bred quickly--there are now more about 315 in Vancouver), Chinese restaurants, especially at the fine dining level, have seemingly consolidated. So while Keith had a truly memorable izakaya-styled meal at Nan Chuu, it makes one wonder where, depite ubiquitous noodle shops, many of the high end Chinese restaurants went. To find out why, it's probably best to follow the money. Between 1986, when Hong Kong Chinese began to intensively invest here (with an eye to the turnover of their city in 1997) and the mid-90s, we saw the greatest surge of formal Chinese dining rooms, especially downtown. The Business Immigration Program (which allowed queue-jumping in exchange for invested capital in "approved" programs), fostered some of the growth. There were lin-ups for ESL programs in Lower Mainland elementary schools. Concorde Pacific began marketing its condo towers on the north shore of False Creek, often with show-and-tells in Hong Kong. Three hundred dollar bowls of shark fin and Monk-Jumpoing-Over-The-Wall soups, Johnny Walker Blue Label and expensive cognac lit up downtown nights. Why I remember it as if were only yesterday. But then something happened. The real estate market hit some speedbumps in the early 90s, other investment opportunities did not support the Chinese entrepreneurs who had moved their families here (they became known as astronauts--with kids in school here, they commuted to Hong Kong for work). But the killer for many new immigrants, especially entrepreneurial ones, was the very high Canadian taxation, anethma to someone used to paying little tax. The result was that some of the high-flying Chinese chefs who had followed the money here moved back home. In the face of diminishing competition, well-financed Chinese restaurants prospered, but several downtown, unable to pull the white crowd consistently, did not, and the nexus of Chinese fine dining, with a few notable exceptions, would move to Richmond. So why did sushi and izakaya win? I think because they're more accessible, less expensive and, at the most basic level, require less skill (it's sort of like vocabulary--we don't use that many words day-to-day and sushi diners seem to order the same dozen items). They fit the modern mold of casual dining in the Lower Mainland, and goodness knows the Japanese have been better marketers: plastic meal models and photographic menus are a national pastime, and have made it much easier for we occidents-waiting-to-happen to see in advance exactly what we are ordering. Jamie PS--Elsewhere on this sub-forum, we thrashed out exactly how to determine if you're eating in a Japanese or Japanese restaurant. Lesson One: Ask the cut-man where he got his knives. What you want to hear is "thirty years ago at the end of my seven year apprenticeship in Kyoto." If they say KIA or LG on them, you may be in in the wrong place.