8Track

huh? she named it. she shared the name. then she responded when eG exploded in six directions on it, and mr. fisher picked up parts of the explosion and her response. I don't think that controversy was her goal....but even if it had been, eG was the entity that ginned it up. First of all, let me say that I think the name is funny and should be kept. But I recognize many have legitimate reasons to disagree. You can't convince me, however, that Gillian had no inkling the name might be a teensy weensy bit controversial. She knows she'd be vilified if she said she picked the name for the purpose of being controversial. So she, with a Cheshire Cat grin not visible on eG, explains that it was merely an innocent reflection of the way people in that neighborhood speak. Don't you think she at least suspected there might be some risk that the name might rub some folks the wrong way? Either she's sly like a fox or has a tin ear. I am more ready to believe the former than the latter. And, assuming for the sake of argument that she DID have a tin ear, then why would she go to lengths to defend the choice of name? If I had a tin ear and realized that people were offended by the name I had chosen, I'd likely back down from the choice quickly. After all, why risk alienating potential customers? I'm telling you folks, she's Madonna sly.

One thing for Chef Gillian, she's ginned up a hell of a lot of free publicity for her new store (sto?). The thing that continues to piss me off about DC is that in so many debates regarding potentially differential impacts to participants of different socio-economic strata, one side or the other will inevitably drag out the "R" word, thus triggering hysterical and over-the-top reactions from both sides. Marc Fisher is well aware of this phenomenon, and relies on it as fodder for often entertaining columns -- the stuff that sells newspapers. Savvy political operators and citizen activists know that they can rely on the "R"-bomb to get citywide attention at the drop of a hat. It's a self-perpetuating phenomenon. I know of no major city that continues to be as self-absorbed about matters of race as this one. And I don't mean that in a good way.

I've always thought it a shame that Sequoia wasn't more ambitious. It's a beautiful and dramatic space that could be spectacular if the cooking lived up to the view. I suppose it's a moneymaker because of the bar scene.

I've been racking my brain to come up with a smutty rejoinder to the "meat party" concept, but it's 5:30 on a Wednesday. My brain power is half gone, like the week.

I'm partial to Barolo, which on a good night can be very good.

I don't know if this is related or not, but Abramoff is in a heap of trouble for his astronomical fees for lobbying on behalf of Native American groups. He was fired by his law firm and there are Congressional investigations into the matter. I like Signatures (which by the way has a kosher kitchen as well) and hope it's not next.

Safeway is the pits of the World. I live on the Hill and go to a Safeway that I affectionately dubbed the Saigon Safeway during the more dangerous years. It's in a rapidly gentrifying, but it still sux. The have an entire wall of broken shopping carts and check out girls that are usually chatting with each other or on the phone while they S L O W L Y ring up your order. I have basically transferred all of my business to Harris Teeter on Pentagon Row. I was hitting the newer Brentwood Giant (near to the Home Depot, so I can kill two birds with one stone), which is pretty good and cheaper than Safeway, but the 9th street bridge up there is now out and will be for the next two months. For really cheap, you can't beat the Shoppers Food Warehouse in Alexandria Potomac Yards. Then again, you have to bag your own groceries there. But they have a decent selection of ethnic foods, altho their meat is atrocious.

Restaurants that use Open Table have this available to them. They do indeed. I was shocked last week when I had lunch at Chef Geoffs and both my dining companion and me were given gratis soup samplers because I was an "Open Table VIP." I nearly fell out of my chair.

Why does she sell the doughnuts in the first place? Have you asked her that? If she sells them in order to bring crowds into the bakery (and while they're at it, buy a focaccia or two), then she gets what she asked for. By dumbing down the patisserie in order to attract the riff raff, you can't complain that the riff raff doesn't appreciate your napoleons. On the other hand, she does it out of some sort of misguided community service (e.g., "I hate doughnuts, but do it because everyone loves them so much"), she should feel free to impose whatever restrictions she wants on their sale, bearing in mind that the level of goodwill she receives from the gesture will be commensurate with the amount of good will she shows in return. I empathize with her on the change issue, because the woman who complained sounds like a complete jerk. Surely, though, this issue can't be limited to the doughnuts. I'll bet she has cookies for $1.25. The best you can do if you don't have change is to apologize and decline the transaction.

I must say, rare is the recipe that I feel tempted to try from the Post food section. They typically devote a whole section to a particular ingredient and then offer three or four recipes with it. If you don't like the ingredient, you might as well toss the whole section in the circular file. I do consistently read Wolke's physics of food, although he seems to be running out of material as of late. I also read Franz's wine piece, although can never seem to find the wines he recommends. They really ought to expand the number of restaurant reviews though. One review a week simply is not sufficient for a town this size. We have the Sunday Post magazine, and then a tiny blurb now in the Wednesday section, which is less of a review than a preview.

Ollies Trolley! Seriously, the burgers are pretty decent.

The following phrase keeps popping into my head: "Would you like fries with that?" Or, better yet, "For 50 cents more, you could supersize that."

Filomena's. The Moms love it.

Friends of ours managed to get us into Charlie Palmers. Will update you on the service situation next week.

Like I said. I would NOT eat there.

Are you talking about the Royal Palace? They might serve food, but I wouldn't eat there.

Four of us would like to go out to dinner -- non-romance thing -- that night. Anyone know if the usual non-reservation places are maintaining that policy? I'm thinking Zaytinya etc.

It must have a lovely view of the Jefferson and Washington Monument, and the waterfront has a ten year strategic plan that will turn it around. I suppose it's a good location for joggers and others who can run around Hains Point. It's really convenient to the airport as well. I have no doubt that they got major tax breaks to do it. So, that may have been the thinking.

The website promises BIG BIG BIG stuff from that restaurant. Levels of culinary excellence and dining excitement never before seen in D.C. Nothing short of a revolution in dining. Not to mention that the attractive brunette in the picture perfectly fits the desired D.C. restaurant demographic. Chevy Chase type for sure. Lots of disposable income. Demure dress, but attractive in that non-threatening kind of way. Sticks to pricey French wines.

Has anyone been there yet? I am dying to hear whether it's any good.

I've eaten at Andale about four times. It's one of the better places for Mexican food in town. Probably one of only two or three spots I know of within District borders that serves mole. And the margs are authentic. No bottled mix there. It deserves praise for being a laid back, quality establishment.

I wanted to pose a belated thank you to Jared and the entire crew at Mendocino. They really went out of their way to make our night really special, starting with the specially printed menus saying "Happy 6th Anniversary," down to the champagne. We had the pleasure of meeting Chef Trautman, who presented a lovely amuse bouche of proscuitto wrapped, smoked fig, with a warm and mild cheese. Lovely. We followed up with the broiled Blue Point oysters, sort of a modern take on the classic Rockefeller. Terrific. My wife went meat and potatoes all the way, having the sculptural caesar sald and NY Strip on twice baked potato. First class, and the steak, which I tried, was absolutely tender and perfectly cooked. For me, I went the more girlie route, having the pumkin soup with tea smoked duck garnish and a dab of mascarpone(?). A lovely smoky finish on a great winter soup. Perfect for that wintry evening. I had papardelle with smoked trout, sundried tomatoes and flageolets (had a hankering for those, don't ask me why) and was not disappointed. The fish was mild and sweet, and the pasta just right. A nice mediterranean feel. We split a chocolate brownie and house made ice cream, with a Graham's 20 year old tawny. Everything was just great. I am so happy that the restaurant is doing well (it was full, despite the weather). My wife definitely wants to bring back ladies wine night there, a long lost tradition that needs revising.

It's interesting as far as food fashions go. Spanish food is now all the rage. Latin is still hot as well. That doesn't detract from Cafe Atlantico, which has been good for a long time. But the place is certainly enjoying a new surge of publicity that coincides with the culinary fashions.

The problem is that there is no really good one stop shop in D.C. I go different places for different things. The butchers in Eastern Market are pretty good, and I get good steaks from Canales and Union Meat. Stay away from the fish monger there, however. To be honest, for quality veggies and organic products, I think Whole Foods can't be beat. Go to the branch in Georgetown if for no other reason than that it's easier to navigate. When I am on a splurge, Dean & Deluca in Georgetown can trim up a fabulous roast for you (and you'll pay for it). I second the recommendation for Litteri's on Florida Ave., NE. It's got an excellent selection of Italian olive oils, wines and cheeses. Also, they make their own sausage there. I cry at the complete loss of Chinatown downtown, because there used to be a couple of authentic markets where you could get all the necessities for Asian cooking. I'll have to check out some of the suburban places mentioned above.

Really? I was at Ella's last weekend and really dug the prosciutto, smoked mozzarella pie. Granted, it's frou-frou pizza, but it's a welcome addition to a town that previously had very few good pizzas to recommend.