SiseFromm

Alex Noir and I were chatting a bit in the "Cooking" forum about some spot prawns I recently acquired. He was wondering where they came from and I figured the source was actually worthy of conversation in this forum. One of my biggest complaints about Orange County (and even elsewhere in Southern California) is a lack of a really amazing source of fresh and local seafood. Santa Monica Seafood is a joke (they don't prepare anything onsite at the market near me in Costa Mesa and most of the fish is flown in from far away lands). Markets like MItsuwa and Marukai are have nice product but most of the best fish is meant for Japanese and raw preparations. Finally though, a friend turned me on to a local joint in Newport Beach called Pearson's Port. It's located off PCH and Bayside Drive (on the East side of the highway) tucked away next to a trailer park. It's sandwiched between the Dunes (Back Bay) and a launching site for a local kayak rental facility. A small walkway over the water leads you to a 15' x 10 shack of sorts with tanks pumping through fresh bay water. Inside you'll find fresh local and seasonal catches. Although I do believe they fly some salmon in, most of what is on hand is caught locally in waters between Dana Point and Santa Barbara. They might travel as far South as San Diego and as far North as waters near San Jose but you'll have to ask to verify. Right now the Spot Prawns are just delicious. Sweet. Plump. Lively (see feisty). Gorgeous. They also have a plethora of Rock Crab, Calamari, and Ahi. I was told that in a few months the Spiny Lobster season will be starting. The family that owns the joint are extremely nice and a pleasure to talk with. They're always helpful and love it when you show a real interest in what they're doing, where they're fishing, and how best to handle the product. I always love skimming the tanks with my own net for my fresh Prawns. Cooked in Court Bouillon then chilled and served with a house-made Cocktail Sauce, they're a real treat. I wish I had some pics to post but I promise I'll take my camera down with me the next time I'm looking for fresh seafood. In the mean time, you might want to check them out if you're in the area. I feel like I discovered a real gem and I'm embarrassed that in all my years of hobbyist cooking I didn't discover them ages ago.

While I'm at it, I may as well post our "Southwestern" dinner from last evening. This was an ode to my days working at Zuni Grill & Topaz Cafe back in the early nineties: Local Spot Prawn Taquitos Mango + Habañero +Avocado Cilantro-Lime Cream (2005 Chateau Montelena Potter Valley Riesling) Goat Cheese Relleno “Fondue” of Onion, Tomato Avocado Cremá (1997 Peter Michael ‘Belle Côte Chardonnay) Achiote-Grilled Pork Belly, Red Wine Jus Corn & Chive Pudding Jicama Rémoulade (2003 Kamen Syrah) “Margarita” Sorbet Cleanser Lime / Orange / Tequila Unfortunately we forgot to take pictures of the final dessert: Vanilla Custard-Filled Churros with Salted Drinking Chocolate Everything was great and it really reminded me of working back in the day when Southwestern food was hot in Southern California. Fun times!

Jason, I know you're going to tell me who you got the spot prawns from, right?? C'mon, give me the Southern California hook-up. Sweet sassy molassey, did you make all that in one day or space it out over the weekend? ← I would be HAPPY to tell you where I picked up the Spot Prawns. I was very excited to be referred to Pearson's Port for fresh seafood. A chef buddy of mine picked up some fresh-caught local Tuna and suggested I get down there asap. I was like a kid in a candy store checking out all their lovely seafood, much of it still live and nearly all of it caught locall (between San Diego & Santa Barbara I believe). The Spot Prawns are in full effect right now. They're feisty and sweet as great lobster. I think they're $20 a pound and weigh in around 10 per pound. We did a cold seafood cocktail with them a couple of weeks back then I decided to poach them in butter for the ultra-rich risotto. Pearson's Port is off PCH at Bayside Drive in Newport Beach, right next to the Dunes. They're located right next to a launch point for a local kayak rental outfit. If you call information I'm betting you can get their number. Right now they're featuring tuna, spot prawns, rock crabs, and calamari. I think they're coming up on spiny lobster season in a couple of months. To answer your other question, that was actually a single meal (I think 5 courses total if I remember). We do dinner parties once every couple of weeks or at least once per month typically featuring 4 - 6 courses.

That's an interesting discussion point. New wineries pop up all the time with $75 - $100 bottles. I wouldn't mind paying that price for the right kind of juice, but it's hard to take that leap of faith based on a label. Unless I've read specific press recommending it, I've got a friend with a trusty palette that's tried it, I've tasted it myself, or I'm a fan of the wine maker, I'm much more likely to pass than to buy. Bottles of Scarecrow are topping out at $625 now for an un-rated wine? Is it really that great? Is it hype? Is it based purely on real estate (those "old man vines" carry a lot of weight)? Tasting in the Valley these days is an expensive endeavor if you plan on purchasing anything beyond one or two bottles. It wouldn't be uncommon to shell out $400+ at a single winery for a half cases and that hurts! The wine market is hot in California right now and although it's an exciting time to be tasting, I wouldn't mind a cooling off period. I get multiple offerings every week and I need another super high-end bottle release like I need a hole in my head. All of that said, some of the expensive stuff really is delectable and worth seeking out. Worth the price tag? That's a subjective matter. Since I'm usually buying based on research, after tasting, or on recommendation from trustworthy staff at my local shop (Hi-Time Cellars Costa Mesa), I feel confident whenever I pay $30 - $150 a bottle. I can imagine though, that navigating the inflated California wine market without some sort of road map must be an awful thing. As for "mostly Bordeaux varietals", that continues to be a constant but there are other trends as well. Rhone varietals are popping up more and more in the Valley and in other hot spots (especially in Paso/Sonoma). I don't know if they've always been there and the market is heating up on them, or if they're more recent plantings based on market speculation. Pinot remains consistent, but I'm excited to see Rousanne, Viognier, Grenache, Mourvedre, and Syrah hitting a stride. I'm sure though that Cabernet and Chardonnay will continue to always reign supreme.

By the way, I just noticed the Strawberry Shortcake dessert on the Justin menu. It sounds a LOT like Keller's classic from the Laundry cookbook. Just saying.

Great resources! Those French labels are constantly challenging me. Especially the proper names!

I'm not sure there are any "fads" worth following, but a good bet is to cook seasonally and locally. I know that sounds cliche and standard, but it really couldn't be more appropriate for wine country. Hit the farmer's market's without a menu and create one on the fly with whatever looks the most delicious at that very moment. You can check out local farmer's market reports to see what some of the bigger market cities (like San Francisco or Santa Monica for example) are flush with. Last weekend, for me anyway, it was a plethora of beautiful stone fruit and plum hybrids, gorgeous cherry tomatoes, corn, melons of all kinds, apricots, golden yellow squashes, and ripe red and black summer berries. I can't think of a better menu foundation than some of those very key ingredients. Grilled Summer Plums with Creme Fraiche & Thyme? Cherry Tomato, Burrata, and Chive Vinaigrette? Apricot Tartlets with Almond and Sauternes? Frozen Golden Watermelon Pops? Grilled Yellow Squash with Opal Basil and Charred Corn? Crenshaw Melon with Serrano Ham & Charred Sweet Onion? Go nuts and let the market do the driving!

Interesting news and equally interesting to learn the value of a big Napa brand. Isn't there another trend though antithetical to this? The trend of small production wineries and ultra-boutique labels popping up at a rapid pace? 2006 & 2007 alone have seen massive quantities of smaller high-end labels enter the market producing as few as a couple hundred cases. The list of $100 bottle entries alone from such wineries must be in the 2 - 3 dozen range. Off the top of my head I can think of Scarecrow, Maybach, Husic, Ghost Block, Bridesmaid, Keever, Buccella, RN Estate, Pharoah Moans, Meander, Rivers Marie, Parallel, Vice Versa, and Coup de Foudre to start. All are just a few vintages old at this point and offer a great counter-point to large corporate handling of classic wineries in Napa and elsewhere in California.

Here's our dinner from the weekend: Butter-Poached Local Spot Prawns Crème Fraîche Risotto & Spot Prawn Bisque (2004 Varner Home Vineyard Spring Ridge Chardonnay) The spot prawns were purchased live and boy were they absolutely stunning. What a treat to have found an actual local fisherman with a great selection of fresh catches. Pan-Roasted Duck Breast Gnocchi Parisienne & Red Currant-Duck Jus Roasted Red Currants, Tat-Soi (2001 Domaine Robert Arnoux Nuits-Saint-Georges Burgundy) Seared Wagyu Tri-Tip Pureed “Butterball” Potatoes & McGrath Purple Carrots “Sauce Bernaise” (2003 Paraduxx 10th Anniversary) Bernaise is in quotations because it wasn't really a traditional hollandaise with a reduce tarragon/shallot vinegar, but rather a straight mayonnaise doctored up with a reduction of tarragon and shallot vinegar. A sort of Bernaise meets Aioli. Brillat Savarin Blueberry & Lemon Compote These blueberries were from the farmer's market around 5 weeks ago and have been resting in our freezer. They were this season's absolute best batch. Santa Monica Farmer’s Market Sorbets: Red Raspberry "Purple Reign” Plum “Ice Princess” Peach

Although I want to check out Craft eventually, I'd rather spend my money on true LA restaurants. I'm happy the likes of Batali, Collichio, and Tourondel are beginning to take notice at our restaurant market, but I find myself more drawn to LA originals and those chefs that have made their home here for awhile already. Call me crazy.

I hope that time will help grow the wine list at Marche Moderne. I feel it's very limiting and although there are a few gems by the glass that are both delicious and affordable, the winelist overall lacks depth. Many restaurants build their collection over time so I hope the development of the wine list is part of the growth plan. For now though, we'll just be bringing our own bottles, although that can be tough sometimes if you don't know ahead of time what you plan on eating.

We ate Tuesday at 118 Degrees, a new raw foods restaurant that opened in the Sobeca district at The Camp in Costa Mesa. 118 is one of several new restaurants that have recently opened at The Camp, including Mesa and Old Vine Cafe. It was an interesting meal, although the server we had was way off the mark and obviously under-trained and/or under-qualified to serve in a restaurant. When asked about his favorite dishes he nearly rattled off the entire menu, he was unable to speak with confidence about raw food concepts (a big bummer in such a concept-driven restaurant), and suggested a clunky Cabernet Sauvignon with food choices that couldn't be further away from needing a bold red wine. In fact, the lightness of the menu really demands white wines only as pairings but I digress. I would say that if you are unfamiliar with the raw foods concept, this restaurant isn't for you. Nor is any other raw foods restaurant for that matter. The concept of raw, if anybody is still wondering, is that foods are never heated above 118 degrees and thus retain all of their natural vitamins and enzymes. Raw foods are easily digestible and serious proponents will go into great detail about how the body is only supposed to metabolize raw foods . . . blah blah blah. The cuisine, as a result but also as a philosophy, is fully free of all animal products. Vegans rejoice. Menu items like "pasta" or "tortillas" are made with the care of a good cook and dehydrators. "Noodles" might be made of pressed/dried coconut sheets. "Cheeses" might be made from nuts. It takes a deft hand and a real commitment to execute food like this . . . but it all ends up tasting of similar vegetable flavors with a distinct sweetness. Clever food, but could I do it full-time? No way. Aside from being labor and equipment intensive, raw foods can easily slip into common pitfalls. I thought 118 Degrees needed the following to make the dishes complete: Texture (everything seemed "soft") Piquancy (some heat would offset the sweetness) Acid (a squeeze of lemon would wake up those flat flavors) Vegetable Variety (dishes tasted mostly of tomato and squash) 118 Degrees is a great place to dine after you've spent a night gobbling down fried foods at the fair. It would be a great respite from a weekend of binge drinking as well! If you need to cleanse the system or if you need a jolt of good and wholesome vegetables, you'll feel great after a raw foods meal from 118 Degrees. If your vegan sister is in town she'll be impressed when you take her there. If, however, you just ate at Cut the weekend before, you're probably going to be sorely disappointed.

Based on the dish descriptions in the Mesa review, I felt like there was a lot of confusion on the plates. What on earth is this exactly?: Halibut, mushrooms, figs, and braised meat ravioli? I totally get surf & turf dishes. I love combining meat with seafood, but this dish just doesn't sound right on paper. I'd love to find out what's going on exactly.

We've watched Mesa's location slowly transform over the last year or so from a somewhat divey sports bar that was out of place in The Camp's parking lot to one of the coolest looking patios in the area. I've been meaning to get over there and perhaps after our busy week in San Diego at Comic-Con we will. I just hope I don't have to stare at lame OC scenesters all night long. That party set drives me crazy.

We ate at Abode last Saturday afternoon. I don't think we really got the true Abode experience. They were serving a limited menu of only brunch items, which I thought was very weird considering we were eating at 1pm on a warm, sunlit day in breezy Santa Monica. Short Ribs Hash and Two Eggs with Toast and Sausage seemed like extremely odd choices for the afternoon. Luckily there was a very small selection of lunch entrees featuring mostly seafood. Holly had a salad of Arctic Char and Mixed Greens with Miso Vinaigrette and White Asparagus. It was fine, if not completely inspired. The Char was beautifully cooked and clean and the greens were definitely farmer's market procured . . . or at least inspired. My Halibut with Baby Summer Squash, Multi-Colored Carrots, and Roasted Baby Potatoes was slightly more inspired. The seasonal dish was perfect for the moment. The fish was cooked beautifully and the light nage or butter and stock emulsion (not sure what it was exactly, just guessing), was spot on. I had no idea what roasted potatoes were doing there though, especially since most of them were overcooked. I felt like the cooks took a big spoonful of the potatoes from the brunch menu and slapped them on the plate. They were clunky and misplaced. I hope that I sent a message when I didn't touch a single one after my first bite to satisfy my curiosity. The wine list was somewhat limiting I thought. Mostly standard names and a few select French wines. I would definitely bring my own bottle if I were heading back for dinner. We asked to review the dinner menu which seemed FAR more exciting than the meal we ate. I felt, especially after taking a look at some of the dinner highlights, like we were served a sort of half-ass menu for the slow, touristy weekend afternoons. The dining room was beautiful and I can imagine it just sparkles in the evening. Plush leather banquettes, warm woods, pink rock salt candle holders, and warm/creamy draperies accented the room. The bar lounge seemed particularly inviting. All in all, I"m not rushing back. With so many other new restaurants on my agenda, I think it may be awhile until I make it in again.

Puck and Goin continue to set styles and trends for the area, but all of the newer restaurants are headed up by younger chefs with fresh approaches. Most seem to have studied under amazing chefs but are now putting their own Southern California spin on things. If steakhouses have been the trend of the last couple of years, I would say a more bistro-style flair abounds now influenced by foods from Southeast Asia and the Mediterranean. I'm horribly behind on catching up with all of these new openings. It's an exciting time to eat in LA & OC!

We park at the top of the parking structure and walk into the mall on the third floor, a mere 25 - 50 feet from the restaurant's front door. Since I'm not strolling through a shoe department before stopping in for a bite, I simply don't get the sense we're in a mall environment. The patio is great, maybe one of the best in the area. It reminds me of the patio at Lucques actually. I don't mind the dining room though. We were seated at a table somewhat removed from the rest of the interior tables so maybe that has something to do with my limited experience. By the way, Russell, I'm back in Chinatown tomorrow for another full day of installations. This gallery show is going to give me an ulcer, but I'll be up there.

I don't know if anybody is interested or cares, but Nathan, Stonehill's Wine Director, left as of a few weeks ago. It's a real bummer for us actually because chatting with Nathan about various wines and diving into full-blown wine nerd speak was one of the highlights of our visits. Plus, he was always ready to recommend an obscure or rare wine from unlikely places. Pairings of Tempranillo against Duck with Truffled Spaetzel were exciting and new. I know he brought in Studio's Wine Manager several months back so I'm sure she can take over, but I will miss Nathan's attentiveness and approachability.

This thread has basically turned into a private conversation. Where are all the other OC foodies anyway?

We went back to Marché Moderne last Friday, July 6th. It was great and the overall experience for us improved by double or triple over our first visit. Some of the initial troubles we had with service, stemware, staffing, etc. all completely vanished. Without a reservation, we were greeted warmly by the front staff that gladly accommodated us with one of the choicest tables in the main dining room. Our server was Joy, and I would highly recommend requesting her for service if you are planning on dining anytime soon. She was formerly with Troquet then in the Pascal’s catering division before returning to the Troquet location to work with Florent’s new team. She anticipated yet never overcrowded and was very knowledgeable. The canapé of Plum Sorbet with St. Agur blue cheese was exciting and unexpected. I didn’t think I’d see a sweet sorbet so early on in the meal but there it was. The plum color was stunning and the blue cheese provided a great salty/cream counterbalance. I only wish the finishing flavor could have been delivered by the plum and not by the cheese. Overall it was a great effort and almost there, just not quite. Holly couldn’t pass up those Butter-Poached Spot Prawns with Chanterelles I had on our first visit. It was as good as the first go-around with extraordinarily tender prawns nestled in with sautéed mushrooms and a rich brown sauce. I opted for the Tagine of Sea Scallop. The clay pot vessel arrived with two ultra-plump scallops atop a bed of eggplant, almonds, chermoula, sultanas, and Harissa. I would order this dish again in a hot second. The intensity of the flavors he was playing with could have easily overpowered such delicate seafood but he showed immense restraint here and the flavors were delicate and haunting rather than punchy and obvious. Great technical achievement, even though I think the prep on the veg could have been tighter. For my main I chose the “Coq au Vin Style” Braised Beef Short Ribs accompanied by morels, bacon, and potato gnocchi. The ribs were exactly as you would hope . . . glazed, sticky, and braised for hours. The bacon and morels were both nice if non-descript, but I wish instead of potato gnocchi he would have gone with a more French-style choux gnocchi. I thought the potatoes were a bit dense and gluey and didn’t add much flavor or texture to the overall dish. Actually, pommes frites would have been a perfect pairing, bringing crunch plus potato goodness. Holly’s main course, Kona Konpachi with poached Foie Gras in Ponzu Broth, was the best dish we had all night. The fish was nearly raw with a very light sear. The foie was poached in the ponzu broth which, according to Joy, was made from several kinds of citrus including grapefruit and yuzu. The creaminess and delicacy of the foie against the rare fish in that light, yet intensely flavored broth was an epiphany. There wasn’t a single bit left in that bowl after we devoured every delicious bite. For dessert Holly opted for a couple of cheeses, although I can’t remember which two. I was more focused on my Peach Gateau with Peach Ice Cream, a statement on the season if ever there was one. The ice cream was light as a cloud and not as dense as I imagined and the sponge was lovely. I don’t even think Holly got a bite of this one. The Sauternes I ordered wasn’t actually very good on its own, but offered a nice balance against the dessert. I think the total bill was $183 for the both of us. That includes a couple of wines by the glass for our starters plus one more wine for Holly during her entrée. We brought a bottle of 2002 Blankiet Cabernet Sauvignon (it was drinking very awkwardly) but I don’t know if they charged us a corkage. I forgot to look. I’m heading back in another few months to see how they’re doing. If the improvement of our second visit over our first visit is an indication of direction, I’m excited to see how this restaurant does over the long haul. p.s. – My only overall complaint on food is that there is simply too much of it! I think if Florent cut down his portions by 1/2 or 1/3, he’d be serving a much more manageable amount of food to the guests.

That's a solid summary of the major differences between Hi-Time and most other wine shops, not only in Southern California or Orange County, but pretty much all the shops I've been in. It's extremely hard to walk into a regular wine shop and randomly pick up a 1996 Cune Via Real Rioja. Want a bottle of Maybach Materium or Buccella, two rare California wines? Just meander up to the California cab section. Library bottles of Bordeaux? Check. A wide selection of Cornas, a 100% Syrah from Rhone rarely seen anywhere, let alone en mass? Check.

I still need to get to Bar Marmont, Fraiche, Mozza, and Simon LA.

I might be completely wrong, but I think DuMOL might be on board for a Michael Mina cuvee. I can't remember the details of that conversation exactly so I guess time will tell. And it was a Champagne, from a known producer in France.

I think I'd probably have a hard time getting along with my day if Hi-Time wasn't just around the corner from our house. I think I ride my bike over there at least five days per week. I know . . . so sad! Whenever Dan sees me he leads me over to the newest Burgundy and Rhone Valley arrivals. I also tend to check out a few key spots in the cellar for new gems, including the magnum walls at the entry to the cellar and at the staircases leading up to the Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon sections respectively. I also like the library wall at the back of the California section and the "cage" next to the Chardonnays. Those areas, for me, hold the most intrigue since they usually hold the rarest bottles in the store. I also like Picnics Deli's selection of wines. Robert & Jeana are carrying some pretty interesting bottles at really fair prices. Their new display cabinet just arrived and their fine foods shop and deli are definitely worth checking out (off 17th Street between Tustin & Irvine).

I agree with you on Clayton Shurley's. What a horrible mess. At least that was our experience on our first and final visit. I was wildly underwhelmed by the food, decor, and "service". We're a stone's throw from Beach Pit. I really feel they did a nice job in making a comfortable, family environment, even if the restaurant is basically on a residential street. I'm sure the opening was worthy of groans from direct neighbors. The food is decent. I'd say B+. Not fantastic or groundbreaking, but the whole experience is pleasant and the environment is clean and cute. I can't really comment on those other ones because We haven't tried them. Sadly, I never really consider bbq as a major dining option for us. I fugure we'll just stick with what's best in this area, which means a lot of Mexican food to be sure.