Invinoveritas

Marcus: Wine and cheese paired correctly provide one of the most sublime culinary experiences available (and one of the quickest). Please get a copy of Max McCalman's "The Cheese Plate" for an excellent guide on pairings. Also, if your lucky to live in an area with an excellent cheese store (Formaggio Kitchen in Cambridge, MA or Murray's in Greenwich Village), I have often found them helpful (I recently had an excellent artisinal Comte paired with a white wine from the Jura region, yum!).

Thanks. Unfortunately I'll be in Tuscany later this month where I expect there to be a premium on the prices that you paid in Alba. On that note, if anyone knows a good place in Florence to indulge in white truffles, I would greatly appreciate it.

I should have been more specific in my complaint. I think that wine, decor and service are all important aspects of the restaurant experience. In the case of the Gambero Rosso rating system, I think wine receives too much weight in the overall equation. I think of wine as its own separate course in a meal that desrves the same care and consideration one uses when choosing an individual course; however, as such it should be incorporated in the judges deteremination of the food score. Moreover, if a restaurant such as EP can warrant inclusion in a list of the top 16 restaurants based upon strong showings in wine, decor and service with such uninspired cuisine, I think such result is sufficient proof of that the scoring system is flawed. I don't see the value in a 20,000 bottle cellar in terms of the added benefit it brings to a fine dining establishment. As one who often dines with only my wife, an apertif and a bottle of wine are usually sufficient for our purpose. If I were, for example, to dine at La Calandre and have their full menu, a '61 Haut Brion or a '96 Dal Forno Amarone would not be appealing in such circumstances (given the 17%-18% alchohol content of Dal Forno, two people would need a very strong liver to enjoy such bottle). The progression of a meal at a great restaurant does not compliment a "great" bottle of wine nor does a "great" bottle of wine enhance a meal at a great restaurant. I yearn for that restaurant that does not focus on a wide breadth of wines that include Bordeaux from the 19th century but a small hand-crafted list that seeks to compliment the cuisine. The wines don't have to be the most expensive or rarest but rather they should meld into the symphony of flavors that are revealed from the kitchen. This might require more wines by the glass but it surely does not require more DRC or Margaux. In the end, I see EP as a very expensive Enotecha. Many people go there for the wine, the chance to have that rare bottle, and that, for me, is the antithesis of what a great restaurant should be.

Bill, Marco, anyone? Any update on the white truffle harvest? Previous posts indicated that some individuals were of the opinion that wet weather in the fall could help salvage some of the crop this year. As we are on the cusp of November, any update on the current harvest would be greatly appreciated.

I'm glad to see that La Calandre has fianlly cracked the top 16 (although its is surely amongst the top five). Nevertheless, I'm at a loss to understand the continued presence of EP in the top 16 with the same overall score as La Calandre. I might be a bit naive but I have considered Gambero Rosso to be a more dynamic and responsive critic of restaurants than michelin. Yet both organizations continue to bestow honors upon an institution that is past its prime.

I have not been to the restaurant at the Wine Academy yet; however, I plan to try it when I'm in Rome during November. The chef came from the Hassler (or at least was at the Hassler for some time). There is also a wine bar that has wine tastings Monday through Friday at 7:00.

The St. Regis Grand is a very good choice although the location is not ideal (although still within a short cab ride to most destinations). Your instinct is correct that this is a good hotel to conduct business at given the expertise in such area that the hotels owner (Starwood) has in such area relative to other hotels in Rome. Other hotels to consider: - De Ruissie- Centrally located with a modern interior compared to the plush interior you would find at the St. Regis (to each their own). The interior courtyrad provides a welcome respite from the outstide world. I find the De Ruissie to be a better hotel for leisure travel than it is for business. - Eden-North of the main action but still centrally located. People I know have mixed reviews of this hotel. While the service is excellent, the room quality is inconsistent, especially on the lower end. -Hassler-A bit past its prime for the prices charged but still a good choice for those looking for a central location and old-world ambiance. Design is closer to the St. Regis than the De Ruissie. - Now for an insider's choice. Given your board name, you might be interested in staying at the Wine Academy of Roma (www.wineacademyroma.com). Yes, this wine academy is right next to the Spanish Steps and operates as a private club that provides wine courses (day, week, etc.) to the public. The facility is run by the same family that owns the Hassler. Since the Wine Academy is new, the rooms that are located their are very up to date. I'm not sure if you need to become a member of the club (25 Euro per person) but you can view their rooms on-line. Good luck. IVV