nickarte
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Posts posted by nickarte
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Ruth is right! We went this weekend and had a FABULOUS meal! Of course the "ambiente" is more "Polanco-y" but the good news is it's open for dinner...
Same menu as the original....specials were a Ceviche Verde and a Merluza in Salsa de Hoja Santa.
Also went to Tezka the other day which was great!
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Recently when my son got back from the DF he told me about "toco con copia" Has any heard that term?
Ask about the taco carts -- but you have to go late at night.
Jmahl
I am from Mexico City and have never heard of such a thing....
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She's getting suspiciously franchisey....I would stick to the original one.
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There is a FANTASTIC new guide book available on Amazon which lists many "low end" ie. real, eating places; it's called:
Mexico City: An Opinionated Guide for the Curious Traveler
By Jim Johnston
Meanwhile, here are a couple of my favorite places:
Mercado de Comidas, Coyoacán
A few blocks from central plaza in Coyoacán; there is an outdoor seafood restaurant that is fabulous (look for the long,long tables) but we go for the INCREDIBLE tostada stand inside in the middle- has to be seen to believed-heaping platters of filling- even our friends from Paris were amazed.
Coox Hanal
Isabel la Catolica 83, 2nd floor, near c/Mesones, (Centro Historico)
Incredible Yucatecan food- only for lunch. Try: Sopa de Lima, Panuchos, Pan de Cazon, horchata to drink. Very cheap!
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It has been a couple of years since I have been there but Danubios was amazing. the best octopus in its own ink I have ever had.
[/quote
Danubio
Uruguay No3 . Col. Centro. Centro Histórico. Mexico DF. 55120912 y 55210976
is an old standard, and in my opinon is a mixed bag, as institutions go, but the Camarones al Ajillo is great!
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An even simpler market possibility is to go on Tuesday morning to the Mercado Sobre Ruedas in Colonia Condesa. Mercados Sobre Ruedas are street markets which take place once a week in different parts of the city, where the locals buy their fruits and vegetables. The only one I have actually been is the one that takes place in Calle Pachuca between Av. Veracruz and Calle Juan de la Barrera. The selection is excellent and the vendors are friendly (ready to give you a piece to try). Afterwards you can go to Contramar for seafood (about 7 blocks away along Av Durango).
We refer to these as "Tianguis" not "mercado sobre ruedas". (the latter may be an official name but if you asked for it people would look at you like you were crazy!)They are European style street markets which take place one day a week throughout the city. The Condesa one, is, I agree, one of the best, and there are several good stands at which to eat: the flautas, the carnitas and the seafood stand near the fish vendor are worth the trip.
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I would add to this list:
La Taberna del León
Altamirano 46 (in the Plaza Loreto, an old paper factory made into a shopping center, near San Angel)
tel.5916-2110
It is a lovely old-house setting with excellent Mexi-Euro dishes that use locally grown ingredients a la Slow food.
Puro Corazón
Monte de Piedad 11
Up on the roof overlooking the Zocalo, amazing view, very good traditional dishes. Only for comida.
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I really meant to add Paxia.
Paxia (Av. de la Paz 47) 5550 8355 is a very good choice; I have been several times. Try the Sopes de Cochinita and the Pozole de Mariscos. But don't be tempted by the silly flavored margaritas, they're too sweet, like something I'm sure you can get at home!
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Is there a branch of Fonda del Recuerdo in San Angel? The original is in Colonia Veronica Anzures, in a different part of town.
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Our "Grito" was a bit subdued, we stayed home and had an "empanada de mole" (puff pastry wrapped shredded chicken mole in lasagne pan), tricolored antojito of nopalitos with tomato, onion, radish and tomato along side of the thinnest chicharron ever (from Mercado Medallin) and thin strands of queso Oaxaca! Poor us?
As to the Hippodromo Hotel and Hip Kitchen, the opening is set for next Wed. evening and the staff has been hard at working doing mock run throughs and tasting menus. Staff is knowlegable and I have a very good feeling about the "fusion" style that seems to be the theme. Our local newspaper had the recipe for Richard Sandovals' " Salmon Maya" and the fact that he uses a black bean reduction as the base for the salmon and then a gratin of chayote says to me that the local ingredients will not be neglected.
Fresh and local, the way to go!
And may I add prepared by an authentic (albeit glamorous) Mexican abuela!
For those on their way to visit Mexico in the next few weeks, we are in the height of wild mushroom season; a trip to the Mercado San Juan (c/Ernesto Pugibet in the centro) is a must, and you can buy dried morrells which are OK with customs, I have found.
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Well, perhaps it is time to do a "Best of Mexico City" list which would then include regional specialties? How about some help on this!
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We walked by the Appleby's and checked out their menu - it was "American" food of the most revulting variety. Nothing that could even remotely be considered Mexican much less regional. Unless in Chihuahua they claim to have invented "Buffalo wings"...so I don't know what they are talking about.
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Although, I must admit, I have not been to Los Almendros, I have tried just about every Yucatecan place in the city and still return to Coox Hanal, Isabel la Catolica 83, 2nd floor, near c/Mesones, (Centro Historico). They are only open mid-day, ie. until 6.
Have not been to some of the others and will be doing more research - will let you all know.
El Bajio does dishes of that region, ie. Queretaro and Guanajuato etc. , but I don't think exclusively. Those states are not known for their fabulous cuisines, although I think this is arguable.
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What a great studio apartment in Condesa! Have already forwarded this to a few friends for consideration.
As to other options the hotel Maria Cristina on Rio Lerma ( check out yahoo travel) has been Marilyn Tausends ( Culinary Adventures) place to stay for years. The rates are from $50 to $100. Rio Lerma runs parralel to Reforma on the north and if you want to do the museums its all walking distance for the most part. Another try is www.hostelsweb.com that lists a $17 rate for a private room, located on Durango and Tonala it might be an option. I do not know it personally, but will take a look just for my own info.
Hippodromo Hotel will be a LUXURY boutique hotel ( with prices to match) check out the www.modernmexican.com site though because the restaurant should be a WOW.
Have a great trip and do keep asking questions, better prepared is the way to be in our megalopolis.
I looked at the website but it doesn't mention the restaurant opening here; has anyone tried his places? I never heard of the one in New York (the only US city I frequent (and not so often anymore at that). The jury will be OUT until it opens and we have BEEN! But I sure hope it's good, because as Ruth will agree, we need more good restaurants that cater to grown-ups and that aren't in "Mexico denial" here in the Condesa...We Condechis don't like going to Polanco anymore than old-time Greenwich Villagers balked at traveling to the upper-east-side...
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Hippodromo Hotel and Hip Kitchen on Ave. Mexico just north of Ave. Sonora.
Hi Ruth and Nickarte -
I'm planning a trip for November and was thinking of staying in the Condesa. I'm having trouble finding hotels — in fact this is the first I've heard of the Hippodrome.
Would you recommend the Condesa for tourists?
Can you make any hotel recommendations? The Condesa DF is a little out of my price range.
Thank you so much.
Liz
Hi Liz - Condesa is a great place for tourists to stay as it is quiet and pretty, convenient to everywhere, lots of places to walk around. I can reccomend the Hotel Roosevelt, located on Insurgentes and Yucatan, a few blocks from Parque Mexico.
Insurgentes Sur No. 287, esquina Yucatan
Hipodromo Condesa
06100 Ciudad de Mexico, Distrito Federal
Ph: +52 (55) 5208-6813 5208-3606
www.hotelroosevelt.com.mx
Just make sure you ask for a room on the quiet side...
I personally, have a small apartment I rent out, but it won't be available when you are here; for the future, the website is www.huichapan.dreamhosters.com.
The rooms are fine, I think a double is about $45 USD.
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Do start buying El Universal on Thursday morning early because they have augmented the Friday "Estilos" section with a magazine section called Menu! It has a calendar of events, recipes and interviews with the foremost culinary luminaries of the DF. It is trying to provide an all inclusive view of all things FOOD.
As for the Slow Food programs there might not be another until October. I will post as soon as I know and hope you can join us next time. I will personally get you the tickets. Slow Food is in need of of an infusion of "new blood" here and hopefully you would enjoy yourself so much you might want to join.
Let me say that the food is incredible every time I have been to an event and that the initiated are quick to respond. I will be posting a story on the Xoconostle trip on www.international-iacp.blogspot.com during the next week but the report on the Dia de las Ciruelas is still on the site. It is at the bottom of the page. It might make "la boca agua" as they say but go ahead risk it.
As well, don't know if you've heard but Chef Richard (Ricardo) Sandoval is coming back home to the DF. With Maya and Pompano restaurants in NYC , Zengo and Tamayo in DC and Denver he is about to open right here in my backyard of Condesa! Sometime in mid-September will be the grand opening of Hippodromo Hotel and Hip Kitchen on Ave. Mexico just north of Ave. Sonora.
More later!
Thanks Ruth..."fast blood" for the Slow Foodies! I'll be there! I live around the corner from the new hotel, and have been watching the progress of the restoration (for those not from the city, the hotel to which Ruth referes is in an Art Deco apartment house which has been beautifully restored). Can't wait for the opening of the restaurant!
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So sorry that you had such bad luck on this. The trip was "absolutely fabulous". When I learn how to post pics I will!
Please let me/us know if there are any more of these trips...as you know from living here, it's hard to get information about anything! I have YET to figure out how to get opera tickets on the day they go on sale...
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The best tortas, I think, are at Tortitlán (two branches, one Ancha de San Antonio, the other accross from the San Francisco Church) in San Miguel de Allende! And I live in Mexico City....this is the only food, in fact, that I would rave about in San Miguel!
Why are they the best? They just are! I can't put it into words...who do you think I am; Proust?
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Tried to do this but nobody returned my email or call; asi es México....
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Good tips Ruth; I didn´t know about the second Bajio! Now here´s a tip for you: arriving at the airport, if you walk to the escalators located between "sala C" and "sala D", go up, cross the bridge, and go down on your left, there is a taxi sitio, used by airport employees and those in the know. These are metered cabs and a trip to La Condesa, also my neighborhood, costs around 80-90 pesos! So it is not necesary to take those overpriced ticket taxis.
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Where can it be found? Libros y Arte stores? Anywhere in the US? What a market ... cannot wait to get my hands on this book.
I've seen it here in Ghandi....I doubt in the US as it is in Spanish but you never know; try Amazon...
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Thanks for the announcement of this book. Strangely to say, we have twice eaten breakfast at a local restaurant (I think at the corner of Ayuntamiento and Dolores, a place we enjoyed very much, but we have never seen activity at the mercado. Once, there were a few flowers for sale.
Obviously we are not talking about the same place, unless, perhaps you were there either too early or too late... The Mercado San Juan is always busy but closes early, around 4; I don't know how early it gets going as I don't get going early myself...
The entrance is on calle Ernesto Pugibet, between Luis Moya and Buen Tono. There is an odd, round modernish telephone tower accros the street which can be seen from afar, as a reference. It has nothing to do with the San Juan market of artesanias which is around the corner and sells chachkas.
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A lovely new book has appeared here in Mexico:
"Del Mercado A la Mesa: El Mercado de San Juan" (from the market to the table: the San Juan market).
For those who don't know, the Mercado San Juan is considered the queen of markets, located in the historic center of Mexico City; it specializes in high quality, imported and exotic foods - from wild mushrooms to armadillos to radichio and, ahem, the occasional raw milk French cheese, unofficially "brought in"....
It is a beautiful coffee table type book, with photos, a history of markets in Mexico City, and of the San Juan in particular. Then there are portraits of individual vendors (all my favorites are included) with a recipe provided by each one. The problem and a big one:
full page promotional photos of Pepsi cola, obviously a sponsor, are placed throughout and within the text. This abomination, as far as I have seen, has set a new precedent for shameless hucksterism, and I´m sure the author, José Iturriaga, must not be happy, but such is the state of economic affairs relating to culture here, and they undoubtedly had no choice but to make this Faustian decision to get it published (by Landucci, an Italian publisher specializing in art books). It goes for around $45 USD, (despite the ads) and is in Spanish only. I would include photos but I can't for the life of me figure out how....
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The best Yucatecan food in Mexico City (and I have tried many places) is:
Coox Hanal
Isabel la Catolica 83, 2nd floor, near c/Mesones, (Centro Historico)
Did anyone mention Pan de Cazón? It is one of my favorite dishes...
Mexico City Dining
in Mexico: Dining
Posted
I'm surprised you had such an unpleasant experience at Aguila y Sol; I have found the service quite good, in fact MORE laid back than normal - and I also hate pushy over-zealous service. Give it another try sometime. On the other hand, I find the food at Pujol somewhat pretentious...
As for Rojo Bistro and the "not Mexican" idea: While not the international city that NY, Berlin, Prague, etc. are (thank God), our DF does have, and always has had, an element of melting pot cultures (especially French and Spanish) and the "new" Condesa is one of them. Sometimes these "international" places can seem like poor imitations of the originals (as can the "French" bistros in New York as well) but when you live here, they can be a welcome respite from "la tradicional". And some of them, such as Bistro Mosiaco, are quite good on their own merits. Don't get me wrong: my first ten or so years in Mexico I REFUSED to set foot in a non-Mexican restaurant!