Christopher
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Posts posted by Christopher
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I have drunk J. Selosse brut
My favorite producer of champagne at any price.
There was a nice piece on Selosse in the chamagne issue of the Art of Eating a few years back.
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One of my all time favorite restaurants on the Outer Banks, and one that could compete in Manhattan, is Carolina Blue 5589 N. Croatan Highway (252) 255-1543
The chef is Chip and his wife Tina runs the front of the house.
The food is sublime and I still remember a vegatable terrine that he served me back in 1999.
They also have a thoughtful and well chosen wine list.
This is one of my top destination restaurants when I travel.
Reservations are advised.
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Corked Wine
in Wine
Wow -- score another for SL in the class front. I tried to return a corked wine once only to be yelled at by the owner and practically thrown out of the store - and I had a receipt.This happened to my younger sister once at a local store in VA. and the insinuation was that she was a know nothing country girl and was dismissed out of hand.
So she returned to the merchant an hour later with her big brother.
I wonder what they drank with the crow?
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There are all kinds of stories but two gems in terms of sheer hilarity and embarrasment are as follows. Both are plays on words.
Serving the amuse to an overly appreciative woman diner:
"A little something to whet your appetite!"
And she responds:
Ooh, well I'm whet!"
This next is somewhat more obtuse but follows the same principle:
At a burgundy tasting dinner with numerous glasses and the server wishes to ascertain that he is topping off the correct glass. The arrogant gentleman replies loudly:
"I always keep my Beaune on the left!"
In the first case, the woman realized what she had said the instant the words came out of her mouth.
In the case of the wine geek, his friends gave him a great ribbing and talked about his bone all night.
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I would cry "Alas" as Beaujolais can offer extrodinary value while being a wonderful food wine but agree that they've no one but themselves to blame given that Beaujolais Nouveau has become the signifier for the entire AOC in many minds. (At least here in the states) I encounter more people who believe that this is the beginning and the end of Beaujolais than I do guests saying "Oh look, a Villes Vignes Morgon !"
But even restaurateurs are complicit. It is rare to have the fuller Beaujolais on a wine card, instead, the light, fruity, racy acid infants are plugged in to fill a lower price point.
However, I strongly recommend a Beaujolais I had this Saturday. Regnie Cru du Beaujolais Joel Rochette 2001 Beautiful gamay fruit with a fairly rich mouthfeel and the acid was in balance. If I had tasted this blind I might have guessed Pinot Noir.
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You have to make these decisions on an individual basis and maybe it's not just on a restaurant by restaurant basis, but on a waiter by waiter basis.
YES! YES!
If there is any repetition in my life it's the following phrase: "Service is not a rubber stamp" or, as Hyman Spotnitz would say "follow the contact"
I take personally the statement: when a waiter says "I highly recommend the special today," it means they are overstocked and he's been told to push it. and find it irresponsible, reductive, and a gross generalization. Take a look at the first line of the first post of this thread: Of special note are the dishes Christopher steered me to that we weren't originally going to order.
Some years ago Danny Meyer went around the country asking two questions
1. Define a great steak.
2. Define great service.
From region to region the definition of a great steak was very similar. The characteristics for great service varied wildly among the respondents.
As has been mentioned here, I have moved into management at Union Square Cafe. Same owner, same city, same neighborhood! And they define the technical aspects of great service in a different manner from GT. (The core tenet is the same and will be in bold face at the end of this meandering rant) So it follows that there is a completely different clientele. I can say this, there is very minimal overlap between restaurants. There are guests who swear by GT, there are those who swear by USC and so on. I'd love to get them in a room together and watch the debate.
But even staying within the same restaurant as this conversation does, we have different experiences. I remember in another thread someone expressing displeasure at the way GT presents service. I believe the word was overbearing This guest found the service experience at CRAFT much better and if I recall correctly, loved that the waiter could see that they were enjoying everything and had no need to come over and interrupt. (I paraphrase from memory)
I remember this post because it was a strong position that came out of direct experience. I loved it.
My objection to blanket statements, and hype: they have the potential of robbing you of your own experience. Especially of you're going after a sacred cow.
For example: I happen to think that the hype surrounding Oregon Pinot Noir is overdone. It's gotten to such a fever pitch that the generally accpeted wisdom from my guests is that all Oregon Pinot Noirs are superior to the rest of the marketplace. I see it differently, I think they made a big splash inasmuch as the initial level of quality was surprising in an upstart region, but I haven't experienced much growth or improvement since then. Lot's of laurel resting if you get my drift.
However, it would be grossly irresponsible for me as a waiter to make that blanket statement to my guests. Why would I want to rob them of making their own discoveries? Of having separate ideas?
I wrote this for two reasons.
1. To be provocative, challenging and aggressive so as to stir the pot. ( Irreverence is my favorite word)
2. To tie this back to where we began. You sit at my table and order a bottle of something from the Willamette valley. I bring it, I serve it, and you love it. Who am I to editorialize on your choice?
OR
You sit at my table and ask for a recommendation or for my thoughts, and then you get them. I FOLLOW YOUR CONTACT.
As far as I remember, I did not heavy-handedly force hamachi on Beachfan. We entered into a dialogue and, in listening to where he wanted to go, gave him my opinions.
He will tell you that I was not successful on all of the dishes and I really struck out on the wine with his guest. Nobody bats 1000. The deal is though, I believe that he, and any others I have served, experienced two things, (And this is it! This is the rub and this is the currency I trade in, as does any successful service person in any aspect of hospitality.)
You need to feel Well taken care of, whatever that means to you and that the server is on your side, whatever that means to you
End rant.
Off soapbox.
Enjoy July 4th!
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Have you ever tasted the Booker's? Someone told me it was kind of rough --
I've found Bookers to be a bit hot. So I am agreeing with the assesment that it is rough. I would go order a shot at a local bar and see how you feel before buying a whole bottle.
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and for sour mash, preferred Jack Daniels to George Dickel (too sweet).
Neither Jack Daniels nor George Dickel are bourbons. (And it's not clear that is what you are saying) They are Tennesee whiskeys and bourbons are also sour mashes.
Most of what's in quotes comes from this book by Gary and Mardee Regan, the rest of these thoughts/facts come from various distillers I have spoken to throughout the years. Wherever I use the word 'only' it is to the best of my knowledge. I love bourbon and do believe the AH Hirsch to be the finest I've tasted, both the 16 and the 20 year. That being said, I think Basil Hayden makes a tremendous DRY manhattan.
"Sour Mash: Think of sour mash as “Whiskey DNA” in the same way sourdough starter used in bread making is “sourdough DNA” Sour mash is a measure of the liquid called backset that is a byproduct of the 1st distillation of the a previous batch of whiskey. It is “set back” into a subsequent batch of mash, along with some fresh yeast, to help get fermentation going on it’s own particular “genetic” or “family” path."
"On January 7th, 1964, the 88th congress of the United States of America passed a “concurrent resolution” declaring that bourbon whiskey “is a distinctive product of the United States and is unlike other types of alcoholic beverages, whether foreign or domestic; and whereas to be entitled to the designation ‘Bourbon whiskey’ the product must conform to the highest standards … and whereas Bourbon whiskey has achieved recognition and acceptance throughout the world as a distinctive product of the United States … it is the sense of Congress that the recognition of Bourbon whiskey as a distinctive product of the United States be brought to the attention of the appropriate agencies.”
"Straight Bourbon: Federal Law requires that bourbon must contain at least 51% corn in the grain recipe. The other grains used are malted barley and either rye or wheat, although law does not stipulate this. Most bourbon mashbills contain more than 51% corn. The spirit must finish its second distillation at no more than 160 proof. The spirit must be aged, at no more that 125 proof, for a minimum of 2 years in charred new American White oak barrels. If the whiskey is aged for less than four years the age of the whiskey must be stated on the label. No coloring or flavoring may be added to straight bourbon whiskey. Straight bourbon must be bottled at a minimum of 80 proof."
"Straight Tennessee Whiskey: Must conform to the same regulations as bourbon, and although corn need not be the predominant grain, it always is. However, before it is aged, Tennessee whiskey is filtered through huge vats that contain at least 10 feet of sugar maple charcoal, in a procedure known as the Lincoln County Process."
In terms of flavours and mashbills Here are some loose guidelines:
CORN which must make up 51% of the mashbill gives bourbon it's sweet notes
RYE Aromatic spice notes, pepper
MALTED BARLEY is there only to make sugars for the yeast to feed.
WHEAT Soft, silky texture
I saved wheat for last because it is predominant in Makers Mark which is the only wheated bourbon I am aware of. Most Bourbons have a mashbill of corn, rye, barley.
The Makers Mark mashbill is: Corn 70%, Wheat 16% and barley 14%
The Jack Daniels Mashbill is: Corn 80 Rye 8 Barley 12
BOOKERS is only unfiltered whiskey, barrel strength at 121-127 proof
BASIL HAYDEN: High rye in mash bill great for manhattans
BAKERS: Very sweet notes, good for cognac lovers
KNOB CREEK: Won national Manhattan contest.
AH HIRSCH: Only Pot Stilled Bourbon.
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BABBO
SUSHI YASUDA
1. These are the two places my guests keep telling me about over and over again.
2. Going out to eat is like going to the office.
3. All of my money is tied up in tuition
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With the Turbot the Gruner Veltliner would be sensational and not an outrageously priced option.
Yes. Perfect. Gruner V is a real value packed gem.
Jean Georges poured a '79 Gruner by the glass a few years ago and it still had racy acidity. One of the more amazing wines I've had in this life and it was paired with turbot at the time. Just brilliant
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I like drinking white Burgundy with my langouste, especially if the sauce is butter based.
Good idea although I've found that shellfish take to riesling and fin fish to burgundy, but that may be true only for Tom's preparations.
Here's the conflict I can find my self in at GT. (Assuming that the guest is working with our list and not bringing his wine)
Paying attention to the original request which factors in cost, I doubt that I'll have a white burgundy by the glass that'll have the strength to pair against the lango and the watercress. (The cress is the wild card here) So now I'm into the bottled list.
Chassagne? No. Never enough acid for me (my biases will now become apparent)
Mersault? Only if the chantrelles were dominant which they aren't.
G.C. Chablis Yes! Will run into price troubles though
1er Cru or Lieux Dits Puligny is probably where I'm going to end up given producer, year, price etc. probably Paul Pernot for price value relationship although if Sauzet is in the budget ...
But now I have a wine with all I need for the turbot and a bottle of it as well, no need to move into anything else at this time. Summer truffles are a minor player and here's another aspect to look at. With the lango you have both a strong protein and a strong component in the watercress.
With the turbot, you have a strong protein with some fairly tame components and with the accent on beurre fondue
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is there a way to request that you *don't* get a specific server?
Sure, do just that. You have to know the name though!
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Not that this is a stretch, but I am a big fan of KRUG Grand Cuvee MV
However, over the past few years I've noticed the blend has seemingly higher citrus tones than in the early 90's. The finish is still as rich as it ever was and it goes on forever but the initial approach and mid palate seem to contain a bit more lemon zest notes.
Anyone else?
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Which wines available commercially would members pair with these two dishes from GT?:
Langostino with Chanterelles and Watercress
Turbot with Sugar Snap Peas, Wild Spinach and Summer Truffle (whatever that is)
I'm interested in wines of very good quality, but nothing I'd have to sell securities to buy.
Many thanks.
Ahem.
I'm finding success with our Vouvray by the glass these days with the Lango but I'd take any demi-sec Vouvray.
The turbot poses more trouble for a number of reasons but I'd probably go Gruner Veltliner or Jurancon
But if I were looking to tie them together with one wine it would be any Riesling by Breuer, Privi Privat by Nigl, or Deiss Altenburg.
These are world class wines that do not require a mortgage.
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Richmond VA. In the fan. There is no culinary reason for this. Just a very strong love affair with that town.
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GT serves a sea urchin 1st course but in the winter only.
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Never take a 5.30 reservation. The restaurant will assume you're pre-theatre and rush you out.
Never take 9,30 or later as the specials are sold out, everyone wants to go home and they will rush you out.
As we all know, you should never eat in a fine establishment on Friday and Saturday nights. The crowd is too noisy and the kitchen assumes that everyone is an amateur diner and cooks accordingly (All Medium rare orders are cooked Medium etc.) The chef knows that these nights are not filled with savvy diners so his menu is dumbed down.
Sunday night is out of the question. The fish is old, the chef is off and the best captains simply do not work.
Monday is too risky. What the waiter calls a special is really just what didn't sell over the weekend and the best Captains are still off anyway.
Tuesday. You could chance a Tuesday night but the A team is just returning and it usually takes this shift for them to get their game back. The chef is always experimental on Tuesday's and the specials tend to be more weird than good based on what he's experienced over the weekend. Better not eat out on Tuesday. Plus, the Captains, having spent way too much money over their two days off are intent on pumping up the check and will sell you bottled water and really expensive vodka to try to even their losses. Besides, it's a school night at the beginning of the week and what fun is that?
Wednesdays? Forget about it. It's matinee day and the whole front and back of house is working double shifts and really wiped out. Besides, the assumption is that you have theatre plans even if you don't and you will be rushed through your meal.
Which leaves Thursday as the only night you should ever consider dining in Manhattan. But, are all Thursdays created equal? No!
You never want to eat on the 1st Thursday because it's right after inventory when chef, management and sommelier are freaked about food and wine costs. There is a moratorium on premium products and the uber cuisine you've come for just wont be served. The same for the last Thursday when, like car salesmen, the aforementioned team is working soley to come in on budget and so the wine recomendation you recieve will have been dertermined after looking at the P/L sheets that week and not your order in the moment. No, never the last Thursday.
So: the only time you should even consider dining at a nice Manhattan restaurant is between 7-8 on the middle two Thursdays of any given month. All is not equal there really are only 24 days out of any year where it's safe to dine. The flaw here is that all of the celebrities and foodie cognoscenti know these rules so you really can't be sure you'll get the attention you deserve. But if you're willing to risk it you can have a good meal
You have been warned, now put us all on speed dial, go forth and compete for dinner!
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At GT we also have 11pm bookings on Friday and Saturday and they come in handy for post-theatre dining but also for post flight dining when one is coming from a different time zone. I'm nearing the end of my shift and a table of four, wide awake-jetlag-hasn't-hit-yet-we're-in-a-different-time-zone, sits down and enquires about the 7-course tasting menu with cheese!
I'm not going to argue that 11pm is a dinner hour, but it is a very workable time for certain people and given that New York is so massive a city, these people come and fill the seats.
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Does any one have any experience on attending a mountain stage of the Tour de France? I find myself in France Friday July 19th through Sunday July 21st and want to see those three mountain stages of the Tour. Having watched this on OLNTV in the past I know that it will be a mob scene and I would like some guidance on how to plan for this from anyone who has experience.
Friday July 19th is LANNEMEZAN to PLATEAU de BEILLE
Saturday July 20th is LAVELANET to BEZIERS
SUNDAY July 21st is LODEVE to MONT-VENTOUX which is the most important.
Any thoughts or ideas on lodging, driving from stage to stage and, of course, where to eat would be most appreciated.
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My sisters farm abuts IALW, perhaps I could get her to take on egullet boarders for a night.
Nothing more humbling than giving my 8 year old niece a tour of the GT kitchen and having her shrug that it wasn't as nice as the Inn's which she had seen on a school field trip.
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Coconujt Tapioca with Passion fruit ice, coconut sorbet and cilantro syrup. I would have never ordered this, thinking I'll save tapioca for my senility. What a mistake that would have been. I was astounded at the contrasting flavors and textures doing a tango in my mouth.
And he didn't even react when my friend said the glass of Amarone wasn't quite big enough, did they have anything bigger. My eyes rolled up into the back of my head; (sorry steve c. if you're reading this).
The only guests who I can't persuade to try the tapioca are those from Great Britain. Seems they were scarred in boarding school and the memory lingers strong.
The only time I've been truly nonplussed with wine at a table was when a woman, after tasting four champagnes by the glass, declined them all saying she didn't like them because they tasted not like champagne but like "wine with bubbles" :confused:
thereuare
I would allow $50 per person tax and gratuity inclusive for 3 courses plus coffee in the front tavern room. The big variable here being the choice of wines.
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This is the chartreuse web site and it's great. I adore the green, yellow and the VEP versions of both. All are available at Union Square Wines last time I checked. I was also fortunate to get a bottle of the original Elixir Vegetal which comes in a10cl bottle and is a whopping 71% alcohol. It is not sold in the states but readily available in France.
Oddly enough, one of the monks who used to make Chartreuse is now a parish priest at St. Josephs on 6th avenue in the village.
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I find that guests who order mineral water claim that it is for health or taste reasons and both of these are defeated when adding ice cubes made from municipal water.
I hadn't thought of it as a control issue as Tommy states, having it on the table, but man, $7 a bottle as an insurance policy against never being dry? ???
Champagne under $50
in Wine
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I'm with you on CAVA as it most consistently comes close to having the complexity of champagne.
PROSECO is wonderful as an apertif but I've found it not so great as a food sparkler. It is however a great base for Belini
I spent a week this summer on a tour through German wine country and tasted a lot of Riesling Sekt. All were forgettable save one, from Weingut Kruger-Rumpf in the Nahe made from Spatlese level grapes.