The Giles Coren review is an example of poor restaurant criticism and is an abuse of power: English critic is chastised by French waiter, critic takes up 696 words of a 1,222 word review getting own back on waiter in print when he should have been telling his readers what they might expect if they dined at Pearl. Critic dresses up the dressing down by attempting to appear to be more of an expert on cheeses than the waiter by typing "Crottin de Chavignol" into google and cut and pasting results into review (after putting them into his own words of course, I'm not about to accuse anyone of plagerism).