Andy Lynes
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Posts posted by Andy Lynes
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That menu is the fruitiest thing I've seen since David Walliams' recent portrayal of Frankie Howerd.
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Palmer's out and not very happy about it apparently. I can't say I'm too enamored with Mr Gerrard.
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just out of curiosity, isn't it a stretch to call plates "kitchen equipment" or "kitchen hardware"
Well, the way I understood the exhange developing was that Brighton Chef made reference to the fact that Tom Kitchin had Pierre Koffmann's old plates, then you said no, he had Koffman's old hardware including kitchen stoves which seemed to infer that he wasn't using Koffmann's plates, so I said that he did in fact use Koffmann's plates, but only those from the Berkeley. I said that because Tom Kitchin told me that was the case when I interviewed him. What I didn't mean to infer, and don't think I ever said, was that plates were kitchen equipment. Hope that clears that very important point up.
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(PS - couldn't see a 'take down' in your link - just a very complimentary review)
No "take down" in the linked review, just the quoted reference to them.
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Well, could be I suppose but would that really necessitate taking time off his column to write? I was hoping for a more Jay Rayner style "take down" (see his current review http://lifeandhealth.guardian.co.uk/food/s...2275843,00.html
"I have no problem taking down big, expensive restaurants which are delivering far less than their pricing demands.").
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In his 15 March review of Goodfellas in Belfast (click), Giles Coren wrote, "You may notice that I have no review in today’s Magazine. This is because I have taken a couple of weeks off to steel myself for the most savage onslaught yet known on some far harder targets much closer to home. And the harder they come, the harder they will fall."
Does anyone know if that "savage onslaught" has yet appeared or if he was just being a big old scruffy-bearded tease?
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Re-read it again. That's a homily, not a review...
As much as I enjoy Jan Moir's reviews, twice is enough for me Jon, thanks all the same. Obvioulsy my fault for not realising that "piss take" and "homily" were interchangable terms. If that's the case, I must get myself down to a church service soon - must be like going to a free stand up gig.
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Website with menus http://www.restaurantsetcltd.co.uk/
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Suspect Jan Moirs review is taking the piss slightly, to be polite.
Just re-read the review and not sure what you're getting at. She seems to be very straight and earnest in her appreciation of the place, indicated by the complete lack of the usual quota of gags.
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oooh, good job, you get 7 out of 10!
I am the Derren Brown of the eGullet set (I've even got the beard for it).
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FWIW, I've been to 40 of the top 50.
Now that is very impressive. Can we guess which ones you haven't been to? I reckon Rockpool Fish, Chateaubriand, Dom, Tetsuya's, Le Bernadin, Hof Van Cleve, Philippe Rochat, Vendome, Die Schwarzwaldstube and Tantris.
Are you tempted to "get the set" as it were?
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Not even one Hermanos has made it yet (or, at least written it up); if they haven't been, then what are the chances of anyone else having done so?
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Alinea is my favorite of this list.
Grant Achatz of Alinea made the trip and was in attendance on Monday evening looking quite chipper. As part of Adria's seemingly endless speech, he rather touchingly dedicated his two awards of best restaurant in Europe and best in the world to Achatz (who was diagnosed with mouth cancer but has apparently been given a clean bill of health) and said something along the lines of sending the pride and energy (?) he got from them to Achatz.
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Honestly quite why pierre would be interested in an 'arrogant' chef with 'no michelin stars' who cooks 'inedible' food i've no idea,
Perhaps because he's more open minded and nicer than us bunch of miserable, spoilt old buggers?
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This week, I wonder if the culinary thunder is ever going to begin (with apologies to Morrissey).
I don't know how far its going to get him in the competition because it couldn't be characterised as particularly modern, but Tom Kitchin's lamb dish was spot on last night.
I imagine the producers must have been tearing their hair out trying to get some sparky footage out of these understated, polite pair. Jenni Bond's is really having to scrape the bottom of her snide commentary barrel this week.
"Tom's just said he really likes Matthew's dish - but is he just being arch and ironic? Just you wait, any minute he's going to pick up his Wusthof and stab Matthew repeatedly in the arm while laughing like a maniac - chefs are like that you know. Dead exciting and suspenseful isn't it, and in no way just two blokes in a room cooking."
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It was the last bottle she had in this particular vintage, and, unlike many of the other bottles on the list, it was rather good value.
I know I'm being thick, but what would be the advantage of the restaurant hanging on to the last bottle of a particular vintage rather than making the sale of a £100 wine?
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Largely un-deconstructed, I grant you... but don't you find them all a bit, you know, foreign?
The clue to that particular conundrum may be found in the title of the awards. And hey, aren't we all just dwellers in the 21st century global village etc etc
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The last time I went for dinner, which is a while ago now, I got canapes - bread sticks, anchovy pastries and dips - then a pre-starter and then the hallowed pre-dessert of homemade yoghurt with mini-doughnuts (beignets) then chocolates with the coffee.
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We sat through descriptions of each winner, usually including a description and a slide of some signature dishes.
Weren't they good - well, at least some of them. So well written I thought...
If you look at the list, many of the restaurants do broadly fit your "deconstructed" heading, but many do not - Chez Panisse, Die Schwarzwaldstube, Le Meurice, Nobu London, Dal Pescatore, Le Gavroche, Le Bernadin, Hakkasan, Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athenee, Jean Georges, Daniel, Rockpool Fish, Le Louis XV, Robuchon, Gordon Ramsay, Per Se and The French Laundry.
I think time is fast running out for restaurants to be able to grab attention and be innovative through "deconstructed" cooking - they are becoming as interchangable as steak houses (and yes, I'm sure there are huge differences between steak houses but you know what I mean).
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And I see Bubonique's seminal Trance Arse Vol 3 was overlooked, again.
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This week, I wonder if the culinary thunder is ever going to begin (with apologies to Morrissey).
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Ramsay's jaw dropping arrogance (as displayed during the recent US series of Kitchen Nightmares in particular) is at least ameliorated by a healthy dose of michevious humour and undeniable charisma.
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I guess there is a reason why it took a few years for him to get that michelin star...
He's still waiting.
Nahm
in United Kingdom & Ireland: Dining
Posted
I was there in January and had an utterly delicious meal. Dessert was a bit disappointing and we probably could have been more adventurous in terms of ordering the hot dishes (we played safe and had a few of the more sweeter dishes which slightly unbalanced the meal), but it was excellent nevertheless.