Papatzul

[Sneakeater]

Papatzul -- opened this fall in the old La Jumelle space on Grand St. just off West Broadway -- is a new entrant in the NYC upscale Mexican derby. Well, it's not upscale the way the Richard Sandoval restaurants are -- and nor is it priced at that high level (entrees barely breeched $20, as I recall) -- but the food is serious. It probably hasn't reached its full potential yet, but it's very good already. Well worth a visit -- and given the paucity of such places in New York, worthy of support.

The chef is named Thierry Amezcua. He's cooked at Il Buco and Savoy. It turned out that, although the restaurant was my suggestion, my dining companions were acquainted with Chef Amezcua through their children. Although we got a lot of comped dishes sent out to us a result, they were all menu items that I am sure were prepared as they usually are.

The food seemed recognizably of the Mexico City style, and it turns out that Chef Amezcua is in fact a native of the DF. Everything was very well prepared -- the glop factor was low. The dishes, as of now, lack the imaginative spark of a Sue Torres (much less Aaron Sanchez at Centrico); Chef Amezcua is, for now, staying closer to the tradition. But he may loosen up as his place gains a following. And, in any event, more traditional Mexican food fills a need in New York when it's this well prepared.

The huitlacoche sopes were very very good. No surprises, but very cleanly prepared. A comped scallop appetizer (so I don't know exactly what was in it) was a standout. It had the kind of assertive but well-modulated multiflavorings that you look to Mexican food for. (In that respect it's like Indian food.) I enjoyed the swordfish napoleon I had for my entree -- but not as much as one of my friends appeared to enjoy his mole duck enchiladas. His response was such that I have to recommend them by proxy.

I think they sent us out every dessert on the menu. They were all much better than you'd expect at a place like this.

If you go this week, I also recommend a seasonal cocktail called La Piedra, which consists of tequila, Fernet Branca menta, and pomegranite.

What is especially attractive about this place is the evident care and passion that is discernable in every aspect, from the decorating to the obviously serious and committed cooking. It's obviously not run on a huge budget, but their choices all seemed right. This place is good now, and given a chance will only get better. But we're still so starved for good above-budget Mexican in New York (the kind where you can actually eat the protiens without forcing them down) that the opening of even a good-but-not-yet-great option is an event. Without expecting miracles from it, I'd strongly recommend you give Papatzul a try.

Edited December 26, 2006 by Sneakeater (log)

[Nathan]

which mole was in the duck?

I'd heard good things about this place...interesting that its opening has been so under the radar.

Edited December 26, 2006 by Nathan (log)

[Sneakeater]

I don't think it was one of the Seven Moles.

It was called Almendra. Not surprisingly, it was mainly almond, although I think it had some chocolate (and of course a bunch of other stuff) in it.

To be fair, I think that one of the reasons my friend was so blown away by it is that he didn't know there were other moles besides mole poblano (more to the point, usually bad mole poblano).

Edited December 26, 2006 by Sneakeater (log)

[Nathan]

that sounds interesting...don't think I've had it.

[Mayur]

Dammit, I was hoping no one would write this place up here. Well, at least there's no NYT review yet...

That about sums up my feelings about this place. While it's only a small advance in closing the gap that our fair city has in the Mexican cuisine department, it is (other than the *INSANE!* noise level), quite fantastic. The hostess, bartender, and servers are friendly; the menu is intelligent and reasonably focused while covering a nice sprinkling of regional grounds; and the food is consistently (based on three visits) high-quality. The tequila is a bit on the pricey side, but the selection is good and the margaritas, sangrita, beer, and wine are top notch.

[docsconz]

Are they open for lunch? This place sounds very promising.

any idea what kinds of cheeses they are using. I find that one can tell a lot about a Mexican restaurant's commitment to quality by the quality and varieties of cheese they use. I expect less of a place that uses Monterey Jack though it can still be good. I am intrigued by places that use real Mexican varieties either home made or imported. They are less likely to take shortcuts in other areas as well.

[Sneakeater]

There's no way they're using Monterey Jack cheese. There seems to be a lot of attention paid to ingredients here -- remember, the chef came from Savoy. Although, strictly through luck of the draw, the dishes I had used creme fraiche to the extent they used anything like that at all.

I don't think they're open for lunch.

(It's funny. I was thinking of actually appending a note to my review stating that I'd be very interested to hear what you thought of this place.)

Edited December 27, 2006 by Sneakeater (log)

[docsconz]

There's no way they're using Monterrey Jack cheese.  Although, strictly through luck of the draw, the dishes I had used creme fraiche to the extent they used anything like that at all.

←

It didn't sound like they would. if they are more of a Nuevo Mexicano bent they may not use much cheese at all. Gotta love the crema though.

[docsconz]

I don't think they're open for lunch.

(It's funny.  I was thinking of actually appending a note to my review stating that I'd be very interested to hear what you thought of this place.)

←

That's too bad. My forays into NYC are too infrequent and there are too many places that I want to return to or try for dinner that I don't know when I will have a chance to get here. Lunch would have been a perfect intro. Nevertheless I am always intrigued by top-notch Mexican. I recently discovered the first decent Mexican restaurant in my neck of the woods - I will post about it after I go another couple of times.

[Sneakeater]

My follow-up dinner here last night confirms my suspicion that this one of the best Mexican restaurants currently operating in New York, and has the potential to be something really special. Chef Amezcua is already beginning to spread his wings in developing recipes. Witness last night's entree special of a chopped-egg enchilada in a feather-light pipian. I'm pretty sure that's a new dish (obviously, my knowledge of all the many Mexican cuisines is not encyclopedic), but boy did it work. And boy was it well-made: it's rare to have a pipian so smooth and subtle.

Of course, Papatzul is not up to the great Nuevo Mexicano restaurants of Mexico City. But I'll tell you what: it's certainly comparable to some of the more modest ones, and is the only place I know in New York that's worthy of being mentioned in the same paragraph.

(FULL DISCLOSURE: the chef/owner spotted me and figured out that I was the person who wrote the review at the top of this thread. We chatted for a while and he comped me a dessert. I don't believe that any of that affected my high opinion of last night's dinner.)

Edited January 20, 2007 by Sneakeater (log)

[Mayur]

I don't think they're open for lunch.

(It's funny.  I was thinking of actually appending a note to my review stating that I'd be very interested to hear what you thought of this place.)

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That's too bad. My forays into NYC are too infrequent and there are too many places that I want to return to or try for dinner that I don't know when I will have a chance to get here. Lunch would have been a perfect intro.

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FYI, Papatzul is opening for lunch as of (IIRC from what the chef told me) this week. They'll also be changing the menu more often, which is a good thing from my perspective, since I've already eaten there four times!

[daisy17]

Has anyone been for dinner recently? Need a fun spot with good food for dinner next week . . .

[Sneakeater]

It would astonish me if this place somehow magically got a lot worse in the month and a half or so since I've last been there.

I strongly recommend it.

[daisy17]

thanks. would you say it has a good fun vibe??

[Sneakeater]

To the extent a gloomy misanthropic depressive can recognize and identify "fun":

Yes. Absolutely.

Edited April 10, 2007 by Sneakeater (log)

[jon777]

Had dinner at Papatzul on Friday night (thanks to the recommendations here). Really enjoyed it, wonderful authentic cuisine, nice, casual, fun atmosphere, and very friendly and efficient service.

While we waited for the full party to arrive, had some chips and guacamole and margheritas. Guac was presented in the traditional bowls (not made tableside) -- creamy, well seasoned and very good, although personally would have prefered a little more agressive seasoning. Margaritas, were $9-12 depending on the variety, and a couple of interesting flavoring including Tamarind (which was yummy) and Hibiscus (didn't try).

For appetizers, had the Octopus with Chipotle -- extremely tender, not chewy/tough at all, and great combination of flavors. Ceviche was excellent, well seasoned and not overmarinated (which to my experience, is the most common problem with Ceviche). Fresh, clean flavors, "cooked" though, but with the texture of the seafood well intact.

A masa "boat" with Goat Chese and Chorizio was a wonderful combination of texture and flavor.

For entrees, we had the above Duck Almond Mole. Good although I was not blown away by the Mole -- thought the flavors were too blended -- and too heavy for the duck which you could taste as much as I'd like. A sea bass "en papiliotte" was a huge winner, wonderfully seasoned and beautifully cooked. Big, big thumbs up. Rack of lamb (4 bones) seasoned with Ancho was very nice, if slightly unremarkable (but a bargain for a Rack of Lamb entree at $22). I did not sample the spinach and mushroom enchiladas, but others at the table did enjoy.

Desserts were a mexican rice pudding (I'm not a huge rice pudding fan, so I can't comment) and a Spicy Chocolate Mousse which had just the right kick with the dark chocolate, although the consistency was a little denser than I like in a mousse. Regardless, the chocolate / spice combination there was perfect.

I did mention to the host that I read some positive reviews on egullet (he wanted to check it out) and he had the chef come by to say "Hi" after the meal (nothing comped, so no chance of bias in my report :-)

Chef Amezcua was kind and humble and seemed very happy to hear the feedback and loves having his own place -- he said the challenges are very different, however, in not only worrying about the food, but EVERYTHING with the restaurant. Seemed like a very genuine, nice person who I'm very happy to give my business to.

FYI, picture of the restuarant and a (slighly outdated) menu can be found on there (work in progress) web site:

http://www.papatzul.com/

In terms of prices, apps were $8-12, entrees $17-22, margaritas $9-12... Very reasonable for the quality, style, service, I thought.

Edited April 23, 2007 by jon777 (log)

[lambretta76]

This place has flown under my radar until this morning - which is lucky as I was looking for a somewhat upscale Mexican restaurant for tomorrow evening. One question - are there daily specials, or is the menu pretty much WYSIWYG?

[Sneakeater]

There are daily specials.

[LPShanet]

Had dinner at Papatzul on Friday night (thanks to the recommendations here).  Really enjoyed it, wonderful authentic cuisine, nice, casual, fun atmosphere, and very friendly and efficient service.

While we waited for the full party to arrive, had some chips and guacamole and margheritas.  Guac was presented in the traditional bowls (not made tableside) -- creamy, well seasoned and very good, although personally would have prefered a little more agressive seasoning.  Margaritas, were $9-12 depending on the variety, and a couple of interesting flavoring including Tamarind (which was yummy) and Hibiscus (didn't try).

For appetizers, had the Octopus with Chipotle -- extremely tender, not chewy/tough at all, and great combination of flavors.  Ceviche was excellent, well seasoned and not overmarinated (which to my experience, is the most common problem with Ceviche).  Fresh, clean flavors, "cooked" though, but with the texture of the seafood well intact.

A masa "boat" with Goat Chese and Chorizio was a wonderful combination of texture and flavor.

For entrees, we had the above Duck Almond Mole.  Good although I was not blown away by the Mole -- thought the flavors were too blended -- and too heavy for the duck which you could taste as much as I'd like.  A sea bass "en papiliotte" was a huge winner, wonderfully seasoned and beautifully cooked.  Big, big thumbs up.  Rack of lamb (4 bones) seasoned with Ancho was very nice, if slightly unremarkable (but a bargain for a Rack of Lamb entree at $22).  I did not sample the spinach and mushroom enchiladas, but others at the table did enjoy.

Desserts were a mexican rice pudding (I'm not a huge rice pudding fan, so I can't comment) and a Spicy Chocolate Mousse which had just the right kick with the dark chocolate, although the consistency was a little denser than I like in a mousse.  Regardless, the chocolate / spice combination there was perfect.

I did mention to the host that I read some positive reviews on egullet (he wanted to check it out) and he had the chef come by to say "Hi" after the meal (nothing comped, so no chance of bias in my report :-)

Chef Amezcua was kind and humble and seemed very happy to hear the feedback and loves having his own place -- he said the challenges are very different, however, in not only worrying about the food, but EVERYTHING with the restaurant.   Seemed like a very genuine, nice person who I'm very happy to give my business to.

FYI, picture of the restuarant and a (slighly outdated) menu can be found on there (work in progress) web site:

http://www.papatzul.com/

In terms of prices, apps were $8-12, entrees $17-22, margaritas $9-12...  Very reasonable for the quality, style, service, I thought.

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I have a very similar report, having eaten at Papatzul last Thursday night. Missed you by a day, Jon! I was very impressed overall with the food, and am pleased to find a decent real Mexican option in downtown. The guacamole was very good, and as Jon described, which means that there is no longer any reason to endure the chain restaurant atmosphere and decor of Rosa Mexicano (or Dos Caminos). The portion seemed a bit larger than at those places as well, and served in a nicely seasoned molcajete.

We had the quesadillas to start, which were very pleasant, if not special. They are the classic Mexican iteration of quesadillas, which means they are essentially empanadas rather than the sort of Mexicanized pizza some Americans are used to. The cheese version was a bit on the bland side, but the mushroom and chicken varieties (an order includes all three) were much more flavorful.

Exactly as Jon described, the duck mole had a very uniform flavor, unlike some of the multi-noted and complex moles I've had, and was not bad, but probably a bit overwhelming for the duck. The other entree we ordered was the budin al pasilla (basically "pasilla pudding" in Spanish) which included layered tortillas with chicken, beans and chiles in casserole form. It was homey and satisfying, and more balanced in flavor than the mole had been.

Needless to say, I'll be returning, as Papatzul is one of the few Mexican joints in NYC that hasn't disappointed. Oh, and the hibiscus margarita Jon mentioned is excellent. Sort of a cross between a margarita and a Caribbean sorrel tea.

Edited April 25, 2007 by LPShanet (log)

[Nathan]

finally made it here.

yeah, it's good.

not blow your socks off..but quite good. don't really have anything to add to the above. but it was the most successful "upscale" Mexican I've had in NY (not a great feat, but still something).

it should get more attention.