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The Greenhouse


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Antonin wanted me to try a grouse pithiviers, and I asked him to do a lievre a la royale, so I returned here in late November. Overall the food was very good again. All of it was on good 1* level, but there were too many problems to give more. Langoustines were not bad, only a little mushy, which is a pity, especially if Phil Howard can get such brilliant ones, a few blocks away. Sea bass, had the same problem, although the dish was great, however the hare was absolutely DIVINE. This was serious stuff, nothing for someone, who doesn't like strong tastes, but if you do, this will blow you away. It is the fairly classical Ali Bab version, a little re-worked, and made lighter. After this we had the pithiviers, which was overcooked (this inconsistency during busy services gets problematic for the restaurant), but could have otherwise been stunning. Cheese was stunning, as was a lemon/basil tart.

Wines were superb, and provided a worthy partner for the food. Ronan Sayburn really is a fantastic sommelier, who knows his stuff.

Here's the full review, with pics.

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  • 2 months later...

Great meal here after a rather shaky experience last year (which still included the dish of the year). Antonin seemed to be on top form, turning out one stunning dish after the other. Visually, it was a dream, and taste-wise it was no less good. I can't say much more about how good the cheese here is, and this time I really took advantage of that, and had quite a bit for myself. The wine list is not as expensive as many say, although the stuff by the glass is a rip-off. Anyways, for me this was a 2*-3* meal (judging by UK standards). Great stuff!

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