The Divine Miss "M"

[michaelklein]

Interesting development... rumor has it that former M chef David Katz will take over at Silk City (From the Philly mag blog).

I'm eager to see what the food will turn out to be in this context, but in any case I'll be psyched to be able to enjoy Katz's cooking anywhere!

←

About the only place you'll be able to taste David's cooking will be at his house for now. I called him. He said he and Mark Bee did speak about a job. But it was for N 3rd, not Silk City. They couldn't agree, though; David's high style simply won't mesh with N. 3rd.

[philadining]

Thanks for that update.

So, wait, are you trying to say that something reported on blogs isn't 100 percent reliable??!?!

Shocking.

On one hand, I was having a hard time picturing Katz at Silk City, or North Third, on the other hand, I'd love to see what he could do with diner or pub food. But I suspect his cooking style is better served by a slightly more polished context.

[michaelklein]

Interesting development... rumor has it that former M chef David Katz will take over at Silk City (From the Philly mag blog).

I'm eager to see what the food will turn out to be in this context, but in any case I'll be psyched to be able to enjoy Katz's cooking anywhere!

←

About the only place you'll be able to taste David's cooking will be at his house for now. I called him. He said he and Mark Bee did speak about a job. But it was for N 3rd, not Silk City. They couldn't agree, though; David's high style simply won't mesh with N. 3rd.

←

Silly me. I clearly misunderstood David when he emphatically told me that he was not taking a job with Mark Bee. Katz just started at Silk City. Peter Dunmire has moved to N.3rd.

Edited September 4, 2007 by michaelklein (log)

[philadining]

OK, so.... David Katz is indeed behind the stove at Silk City. The menu changes are not what you might expect! Victor Fiorillo posts in Philly Mag's Taste Daily:

He adds that the changeover will be quick: “A couple of new items each day. In a week or two, the whole thing will be completely different. It’s going to be real diner food, really well made.” Some of his former M customers may be surprised at his casual approach (I know I was), since his kitchen there plated lots of frilly fanciness, but Katz says, “I just love good food.”

So Katz is actually rolling Dunmire's fanciness back a notch, to more of a trad diner-y thing. I think there's a place for really well-made diner food, so this could be cool. But it's sad to think we won't be able to eat Katz's more inventive creations. I doubt it would fit, but I'd love to see one of his funky things as a special each day...

I can only assume that the confusion over whether he was taking the post or not came from Katz wanting to avoid confirming anything before an "official" announcement, but he probably could have found a more elegant way of dodging Michael Klein's question. But hey, he's not the Whitehouse press secretary, he's a chef...

I guess this discussion should move over to a Silk City thread now, but it's odd timing that The City Paper reviewed Silk City this week, right as the menu is changing.

[philadining]

Why do all these dinners keep happening on bad days for me? I'm starting to suspect a conspiracy!

Michael Klein reports over at the Food and Drinq Blog that former M chef David Katz is doing a guest chef stint at Little Fish on Thursday. (ETA: that's thursday 10/18/07)

Menu looks good:

Amuse

Lobster & peppercress salad, confit of butternut squash, carrot, baby beets, vanilla bean vinaigrette.

Red wine risotto, pancetta, poached egg yolk

Pan roasted red snapper, asparagus, crisp new potatoes, sea urchin emulsion, slow cooked cherry tomatoes.

Braised veal cheek, cauliflower-truffle puree, roasted porcini, brussel leaves, madeira jus.

Chocolate truffle torte, hazelnut praline mousse, orange ice cream.

There's more info on that blog post, or call the restaurant: 215-413-3464

Really wish I could be there.

Edited October 16, 2007 by philadining (log)