Mugaritz: The cruelty of paper

[luizhorta]

Rafael Garcia Santos in his web page, Lo Mejor de la Gastronomia, tries, desperately, to explain why he reduced Mugaritz's number (the critics love numbers, in fact they love themselves a lot) from 9,5 to 8,5. It's a funny and pathetic exercise in nothingness, and I do recommend the text as an example of a man repenting his wanders in a minefield. The fact is that his guide was ready and printed and everyone knew it would happen when Michelin gave Mugaritz its second star...Panic and now this strange effort to put the train back into tracks. Too late Mr. Santos...

[vserna]

Neither Michelin nor García Santos are overly reliable guides to what's best in Spain, but if one has to choose, I'll stick with García Santos' volubility and partiality rather than with Michelin's ultra-conditioned and 'political' outlook. Michelin has no credibility in Spain, and the sales of its Spanish edition here are ridiculously low.

[luizhorta]

I prefer the Michelin.

[pedro]

Well, that's a valid position. Perhaps you could give us some insight about the reasons why?

IMHO Rafael Garcia Santos' guide has many shortcomings, but at least you always know in which direction the wind is blowing, whereas Michelin has a factor of randomness (why this restaurant has a star and this other which is equal or better doesn't?) that, honestly, I can't interpret. For instance, I don't pay any attention to what RGS has to say about Zalacaín or Hispania, but you know how he will react to certain type of cuisine. At least until this year.

[luizhorta]

Of course I can give some reasons. The main one is very simple and a little bit empirical: on november the 11th I had my 5th meal at Mugaritz this year, it was just perfect, superb, probably the best dinner I've ever had in my life. One week later Garcia Santos downgraded Mugaritz and Michelin upgraded it. I coincide more frequently with Michelin than with Garcia Santos, so I prefer Michelin, q.e.d.

As a matter of fact I don't care about guides, I think internet and Foruns like this one are much more reliable, as a sum of opinions, but I couldn't avoid a perverse laugh on Mr. Santos disorientation in this small affair.

[pedro]

I'm not a huge fan of RGS. Actually, I'm not his fan at all for a number of reasons. But if my memory doesn't fail, I believe the text written online in here says exactly the same as the printed guide.

[luizhorta]

well, i don't have the paper version, too heavy with propaganda to carry southern of rio grande, so it's up to you to compare.

[pedro]

Well, usually is the one who makes the point who carries the burden of fact checking, Luiz. I simply was intending to provide some accuracy regarding what is printed and what is online.

Knowing the role that RGS plays as a critic, I find the argument that he's trying to justify himself because his ratings and Michelin's differ in Mugaritz quite weak: he's too proud and there's ample difference between his judgments and Michelin's (simply take a look to the three star segment). An explanation that I'd find more reasonable is that he's justifying himself to the chefs who has downgraded. I guess it's difficult to downgrade and invite as speakers to Lo Mejor congress to the same people.

[luizhorta]

Touché!

[ginger chef]

i found rgs guide interesting as it had more to read and gave more insight into the chefs and restaurants . but i found when eating in all rgs top ten when i was out there that michelin had awarded the restaurants accordingly. mugaritz was only one star but was excellent and evolving but fagollaga was also one star but not as exciting but still rated high in rgs . now mugaritz has achieved its 2nd star i compare it with others in its class. i.e zuberoa and akelarre and i feel mugaritz is still moving forward and aimong high. as a guide rgs is intersting but the michelin may not sll well in spain but the rest of europe and beyond trust there evaluation and credibility. the best meals i had in spain were at mugaritz, sant celoni, casino del terrazza and can fabes.

[vserna]

No one in Spain gives a hoot about what Michelin decides (except the directly concerned chefs, of course), and knowing García Santos he would be perversely happy to be going in the opposite direction vis-à-vis Michelin. RGS made Mugaritz famous when Michelin hadn't even heard of Aduriz. What he's done in this case is to fire a warning shot which many Spanish clients and critics felt Aduriz had coming to him, because he's been so distracted by a number of things for the past couple of years. I seldom agree with RGS, but in this case I can understand him.

[luizhorta]

I happened to be in Spain when Michelin announced the new stars. The uproar was appaling, if this is what you call "no one give a hoot" I fear to think what a hoot in Spain is...All major newspapers trumpeted the results. As to Andoni Aduriz, it's a lot of pretension to think some local spanish critics made his career. As far as I know he (as Ferran Adriá) owes much more to the New York Times than to the spanish critics. For local critics they both would be cooking paellas for tourists forever...Spain is the most interesting place on earth now despite and not because of local critics.

[pedro]

Luiz, no matter how much coverage the new Michelin stars get every year, the fact is that the inmense majority of the locals who go to the restaurants don't know about the Michelin. That's not the case with travelers coming from abroad, as it's been discussed in this forum in a number of times.

What you say about the NYT is simply not right. The NYT published its famous article on Adria when he was considered the best chef in the world already and was being impossible to book a table in his restaurant for years. I'm not aware of any important appearance of Aduriz in the Times. To know which places are worth the visit in Spain, you have to use the local guides --written by local critics--, RGS for a certain type of cuisine or the Guia Campsa which I particularly prefer. Or this forum, of course.

[luizhorta]

I suggest you consult the NYT archives, where Andoni Aduriz is frequently listed among the best chefs in Spain nowadays. Arthur Lublow called him "the most harmonious cook in our days" and said if he had to choose one last meal he would like to have one cooked by Aduriz. The same NYT called Aduriz "wunderkind" some 3 months ago. I still want to know why and in which points Victor coincide with RGS, it's something in his (Victor's) last post that stayed unclear. I thank your answer, but I was adressing Victor about the hoot and non-hoot of stars. And what about Parker's points? Why so many winemakers cross the Atlantic with bottles till Maryland to be tasted by him? The same non-hoot thing?

[luizhorta]

And I really don't believe people in Montseny goes to Can Fabes, or people in Donostia usually have a lunch at Arzak. We are talking about Michelin stars all time, haute-cuisine, people that travel to eat at remarkable places. You don't think all these grand places can live and survive only on locals, do you? For local food I ask taxi drivers, they know best. Critics are like balloons, you give them too much gas and they explode. I always think that refusing the impressionists in a Paris show was art history, but who did it? What was the name of the critic who said Duchamp was bad? Critics...

[pedro]

I suggest you consult the NYT archives, where Andoni Aduriz is frequently listed among the best chefs in Spain nowadays. Arthur Lublow called him "the most harmonious cook in our days" and said if he had to choose one last meal he would like to have one cooked by Aduriz. The same NYT called Aduriz "wunderkind" some 3 months ago.

. . . . .

I did. Two mentions of Mugaritz, August 2003 in what is known as the article on Adrià by Lubow despite its title and two paragraphs by Bruni in September this year. In the same article, Bruni writes that he's never been to San Sebastián. I hope the main source of Mugaritz's revenues wasn't based in the crowds drawn in by the NYT.

I thank your answer, but I was adressing Victor about the hoot and non-hoot of stars.

Luiz, if you want to make this a conversation between you and Victor, I suggest you use email or PM. Otherwise, this is a topic which is open to all our members.

And what about Parker's points? Why so many winemakers cross the Atlantic with bottles till Maryland to be tasted by him? The same non-hoot thing?

←

Because the US market is an important one for wine exports and Parker a prescriptor in that market? Certainly, not because Parker is well known by the drinkers or Castillo de San Diego or Marqués de Cáceres.

[luizhorta]

ok, of course it's opened to all persons (since they don't ask direct questions to the demi-gods and have they threads deleted), but I was adressing Victor, as you are adressing me when you say Luiz, or are we all Luizes?

Edited January 3, 2006 by luizhorta (log)

[pedro]

And I really don't believe people in Montseny goes to Can Fabes, or people in Donostia usually have a lunch at Arzak. We are talking about Michelin stars all time, haute-cuisine, people that travel to eat at remarkable places. You don't think all these grand places can live and survive only on locals, do you?  For local food I ask taxi drivers, they know best. Critics are like balloons, you give them too much gas and they explode. I always think that refusing the impressionists in a Paris show was art history, but who did it? What was the name of the critic who said Duchamp was bad? Critics...  

←

I can't speak for Arzak other than a simple eye check. Santi Santamaría said that half his clientele comes from Catalonia, around 20% or so from the rest of Spain and the rest from abroad.

Let's take Can Roca: its survival depends on the locals. Not many people travel to Girona in the winter months. That also explains why it gives the superb value for your money. (Pitu Roca dixit)

[luizhorta]

I ate Andoni's food here in Sao Paulo for the 1st time, as I did with Santi Santamaria, sometimes the chefs travel, not only the jornalists, got it?

[pedro]

Yes, I got that. What I don't get is what that has to do with the composition of the customers of their restaurants. And what has to do with my points, while we're at it. I'm not questioning the importance of Michelin for the restaurants since it brings them good money coming from foreigners visitors. I'm just saying that is not a guide that is commonly used by locals.

I believe we're drifting off topic. After all, the thread was about RGS and his guide.

[Bux]

If I may interject a few points here, I think we may be confusing importance with influence and respect with recognition. I don't have a great basis for second guessing the opinions of Spaniards as a nation or as a group of individuals. I'm sure the relative few I know are not typical. For one thing, even for a nation that takes its food seriously, a large percentage of the Spaniards I know are truly obsessed with food. That, in fact, is why I've sought them out.

Be that as it may, I can't think of one of my friends or acquaintances who very likely to alter their dining plans because of anything Michelin says or does. They may have a curiosity about an unknown restaurant that suddenly sports a star, but they'll sooner try a new restaurant on a friend's recommendation and the truth is that it's highly unlikely Michelin will spot a star before they hear of it via the grapevine. On the other hand, just about everyone I know, particularly if they are obsessed with food or connected with the tourist or hospitality industries, is highly aware of the Michelin ratings and likely to mention a restaurant's Michelin rating when the subject arises. They recognize the universal importance of a multistar rating, even if they don't let it influence their own judgment. So while it won't alter their dining habits, a sudden change in rating from Michelin might well cause an uproar when they speak of food and restaurants.

When a Spaniard with gastronomic tendencies recommends a restaurant to us, the next sentence is likely to be a comment about its Michelin stars. It may be that the stars are used to support their recommendation or it may be that we're told that the restaurant deserves a better rating in their opinion. The latter may come with the sense that we're being let in a secret all Spaniards already know or it may come with the implication that we're lucky to know our informant who has the fast track on the good restaurants--and this is true whether the source is a culinary journalist or a lay colleague of my wife. Michelin is recognized for its international standing, even when its opinion is not particularly respected and that's precisely the reason why its opinion may cause an outrage amongst those who don't own a copy.

Edited because I ran a spelling checker after I posted.

Edited January 4, 2006 by Bux (log)

[vserna]

I just had an idea - let's do a guide of Spanish restaurants that aren't even included in the Michelin guide to Spain. It would be an eye-popper, I can tell you - in Madrid alone!

[anyavon]

Mugaritz, as far as I know, isn't doing all that well financially, neither with locals nor with visitors. Much of their income comes from catering banquettes because there simply isn't the market for this kind of introverted avant-garde cooking (Ferran being an exception). Plus Mugaritz has been financed by Martin's group, though from what I hear Martin either aleady did or is about to pull the plug. On the early stages RSG was certainly very influential in advancing Andoni's career, at least within the narrow confines of the Spanish food world--even if his guide isn't a mass-market proposition either. Now RSG turned on him, which is what he tends to do with the chefs he elevates. NYT didn't give Andoni much attention--Gourmet did a small piece on him and I've written about him quite a lot for various magazines. But that's not enough to fill a restaurant.

Andoni is an incredibly talented chef and one hopes that his second star will help him achieve a wider recognition. Most of us food critics are exhasperated by Michelin ratings--all I seem to do with my colleagues in Europe is moan and complain. Yet in some cases, stars do bring people to a restaurant and this one's is certainly worth it. Ditto Ruscalleda.

As for Luiz's remark about Spanish food critics, I completely disagree. They did a huge deal to promote new-style cuisine. Nowhere else in the world have critics been more influential in creating a movement. Elsewhere, they are usually hostile to ground-breaking cuisine and if that's changing, it is thanks to the Spaniards. RSG, for instance is a huge hero in Italy and Identita Golosa started a chef's congres in Milan a la San Sebastian.

[vserna]

Martín Berasategui seems to believe Andoni has gone slightly wacko, scouring the mountainside for wild herbs like a born-again druid, and he's indeed a bit exasperated. I would say he now has more faith in the future progress of another one of his pupils - Iñigo Lavado, now with his own place in Irún.

[JesusBarquin]

For local food I ask taxi drivers, they know best.

Frankly, I would not agree that is a wise approach, generally speaking.

What was the name of the critic who said Duchamp was bad? Critics...  

←

I am not an art critic. My opinion is that Duchamp is, let's say... bad?

Regarding Iñigo Lavado's restaurant in Irún, I second the recommendation.

And regarding what to do about Michelin's stars when one writes an article on spanish restaurants: simply ignore them. I mean, not a single mention of the word 'Michelin'.

Edited January 5, 2006 by JesusBarquin (log)