Michel Bras, Laguiole

[Bux]

Let me start by posting our menu.

Evaison & terre à 81 euros

Les aperges vertes du Languedoc sur une émulsion lactée, rélevées de "stock-fish;" tigues et feuilles de printemps: "ails des ours, tamiers, mourons des oiseaux ...

Asparagus with herbs and young spring leaves, and a creamy espuma.

Les filets de truite "fario" d'eau froide juste radis: unde vinaigrette aux oeufs et aux herbes fines, pousse de choux montés.

The "fario" trout had a firmer texture than the one we had in Belcastel. As I'd been told that wild trout is extremely rare in this parts, I asked if this is farm raised or wild and was told it's somewhere between the two. It was trout that had been raised under special conditions more resembling the natural condition and had been fed a diet like that of wild trout. I was pleased with both the relative quality of the trout and the honest answer.

La poêlée de ris et de pansette d'agneau mélée de kasha; trait de vinaigre, un jus dpagneau perlé.

Lamb sweetbreads and book tripe. The sweetbreads were excellent but the tripe was something special, unexpected, and it made the dish memorable for me. It was cut in fine strips and must have been precooked and then sauteed with the sweetbreads and buckwheat (kasha--and that's not the French word either as far as I know). There was a crispness that offset both it's own tender ness and that of the sweatbreads. The kasha added a level of earthiness in a way I've never appreciated about kasha before. This was a simple dish ungarnished by vegetable and it was perhaps, my favorite dish so far this trip.

Le filet de Boeuf fermier Aubrac - pur race - rôti à la braise; buerre "léger" au poivre, côtes et feuiles de moutarde.

Roast Aubrac beef served rare with mustard greens and no sauce except for the juice from the beef and a bit of butter. The surface was as unchared and rare as the center.  It was a small portion and might not have suited a Peter Lugar patron, but it was enough for me and there was enough food so far to have made me glad I didn't succumb to the larger menu.

"clin d'oeil à l'histoire d'Aubrac;" l'aligot.

A wink at the history of the Aubrac. After the beef was served a portion of aligot, the classic mashed potatoes with garlic and local white cheese from the rerion, arrived at the table.

Les fromages Appellation d'Origine Controllé de l'Aveyron & d'à côté; (laguiole, bleu des causses, racamadour, roquefort, st. nectaire, fourme d'ambert ...) et l'ecir de l'Aubrac.

The cheese cart, in a region lucky enough to have cows, sheep and goats, offered an excellent selection in terms of variety and quality with only local cheeses.

Une interprétation autor du riz et de l'annas: un coulis aux agrumes et aux raisins.

A dessert of crisp rounds of dried pineapple and rice cakes that was not to my taste and one I did not find at all compelling. There were some very pasty rice disks between dried pineapple slices. It's appeal for me was limited to the visual, although it was enlived somewhat by a nice sweet pineapple sauce.

This meal was very much a bargain by New York standards. There is also a 128 euro Découvert & nature menu with five courses, cheese and three desserts which sounded very appealing, by the way. The rooms were about twice the price we've been paying in the simpler country places we had been staying but they are far more luxurious, elegant, and well appointed, although the design looks better than it works in some aspects.

There was a a refined sense of simplicity in the meal that's not at all about simple cooking, or simple ideas. The complexity doesn't hit you over the head. I believe Cabrales used the word "gentle" to describe the food. It may be most apt. I can't think of a better adjective off hand, but it doesn't really tell you much about the food. I suspect it's the gentility and delicacy of the food that lulls you into believing it's simple when it's anything but simple.

[grahamtigg]

Fascinating notes as usual Bux. It's extraordinary how many times we've had fario trout over the past 12 months in the Languedoc - an ingredient that's come from nowhere.

Until a couple of years ago we lunched chez Bras pretty much every year. We're going less frequently now because it's gradually become more impersonal over the years, or we've simply become more sensitive to that aspect of dining.

Thanks to 3*s prices have risen and frankly the gap between Bras and the likes of Vieux Pont and Le Mimosa (places with similar ingredient led approaches) has narrowed. I think the "gentle" aspect comes from seeking perfection in the overall balance of a dish. Like music you don't always get it first time, but you unravel layers in your mind as you contemplate it afterwards, or better still return for more.

[seanw]

Hello Bux,

             It seems you enjoyed the meal,your observation of the complexity masked by simplicity is appropriate & I believe intentional.By the way the creamy espuma is in fact a mousse made from seasoned condensed milk & powdered gelatine whipped-up in KitchenAid that michel has done for a number of years & pre-empts the el bulli craze with siphon.

         Could you tell me more about the dessert,were the rice cakes dry or bound together with caramel ?,I seem to remember a similar dessert but served with basmati rice ice cream did you have such a garnish??(do you think it could have benefitted from such??).The cheese was a local tomme fraiche(I probably spelt that incorrectly) that was added to the aligot.

            When you say the beef was "as rare & uncharred as the center" I conjure up images of raw pulsating muscles, was the outside as insipid as such an image suggests.Kasha is the e. european term(namely Russia) for roasted buckwheat ,I suppose a French equivalent would be sarrasin roti (or something like that!!)the roasting of the grain brings out the earthy nuttiness that I think you describe in your post.

            The trout thing seems to be a relatively recent phenom perhaps induced by popularity elsewhere,I know when I was there fish such as monkfish & bream were being utilized more I hope that the recent scarcity of numbers(monkfish in particular)are dissuading chefs from their use,although a if a recent visit to Spain is any indication the message is not being received.

                Thanks for the post,are you planning on the degustation menu??? ..hope so...

[Bux]

seanw, did you want to know if I also had the degustation menu or if I was going to post it? For those who are interested here is the gastronomic menu we didn't choose:

Découverte & nature à 128 euros

• Le gargouillou de jeuns légumes, dit "classic," relevé de graines germées & d'herbes champêtres.

• Le filet de turbot servi tiède, relevé de jambon sec; asperges vertes du Languedoc, bouillon à l'ail des ours.

• Le foie gras de canard poêlé, assaisonné de pain, de noisette & de sel; premiers radis "cerises" justes chaudes, du cresson alénois et le jus des fanes.

• comme une soupe; orge perlée, caillé de vache d'ici et un jus aux truffes.

La pièce d'agneau Allaiton rôtie sur os; roquette, feuilles d'érythrone ... touche de citron sel-sucre, le jus parfumé.

Les fromages AOC de l'Aveyron & d'à côté; et l'ecir de lAubrac

• sur une interpréptation du coulant, originel de 81; le bisquit tiède de chocolat coulant ® au sucre épicé; crème glacée au caramel et au buerre noisette.

 La tarte caramélisée à la chair d'orange qui s'épice de badiane, de gingembre.

 Le sorbet au cacao maigre, touche de tanaisie.

We didn't take this menu as the number of courses was greater than our appetite that evening. Le gargouillou of young vegetables was enticing here, but that was balanced by the appeal of the Aubrac boeuf, another house specialty. Given Bras' interest in his Aubrac countryside, the trout, a local freshwater fish, had more appeal than turbot. Although the latter may be a finer fish, it's an ocean fish. Given Bras' identification with his countryside, I'm surprised to learn of his focus on fish from the sea. I notice that there is no shellfish on either menu. I wonder if there are freshwater crayfish in the region.

Foie gras is always a temptation, but we had eaten foie gras recently and lamb sweetbreads are less often a menu choice while foie gras will appear as a choice soon enough again. Little did I know that the pansette would make the dish for me. There are many reasons to choose one of the set menus in a gastronomic restaurant and the chance to taste a dish I wouldn't normally be drawn to, is a major one.

The rice cakes were not so much "dry," as pasty. I do not remember them as bound with caramel, but they may well have been now that I think of it. Perhaps if I had more appetite I may have appreciated the dessert. At that point I was looking for a light French rice pudding and a less challenging dessert. The dessert was challenging in a way that none of the savory courses were.

I am familiar with kasha from my childhood. It was a grain I would not eat as a kid. My tastes have changed, although I can also vouch that my mother did not serve it with lamb sweetbreads and crisped julienne of book tripe.

Bras' aligot was not much different from one I had in a brasserie in Rodez. Aligot has a very interesting texture and quite different from what I had expected. These were the first two times I had had it in France and I was glad to have the two versions whose similarity convinced me they were both authentic. I had the dish once in the states, but that was more like what I might expect if you told me it was mashed potatoes and cheese. The real aligot had a texture I might describe as more similar to "silly putty" than I expected. And I mean that in a nice way. I suspect it's the cheese, and I now believe the dish has to be eaten in the area.

The beef was rare, not raw, although I could best describe the difference in texture between the surface and interior of the meat by suggesting sashimi. If there is nothing to compare with a charcoal grilled steak in one's mind, Bras' beef would not be appreciated, but if you can appreciate the delicacy of raw tuna, you are likely to find the beef a treat as well. It's an alternative to eating a steak with a caramelised surface, rather than a replacement that suggests you abandon the old way.

[Bux]

It's extraordinary how many times we've had fario trout over the past 12 months in the Languedoc - an ingredient that's come from nowhere.

Until a couple of years ago we lunched chez Bras pretty much every year. We're going less frequently now because it's gradually become more impersonal over the years, or we've simply become more sensitive to that aspect of dining.

Thanks to 3*s prices have risen and frankly the gap between Bras and the likes of Vieux Pont and Le Mimosa (places with similar ingredient led approaches) has narrowed. I think the "gentle" aspect comes from seeking perfection in the overall balance of a dish. Like music you don't always get it first time, but you unravel layers in your mind as you contemplate it afterwards, or better still return for more.

I had never seen the term "fario" before, but I noticed in on menus posted throughout the area and it seemed to be used with some distinction. I assumed it was a variety of trout and wondered if it had an English translation. I.e. was it rainbow trout, speckled trout or some other trout here. Could it refer to a variety that's now farmed and still prized, or is it identified to promote farmed trout? In any event, it's interesting to know that it's come from nowhere in short time.

I'm also interested in your comment that Bras has become less personal. There's a thread in the General board here about "originality" that's had points raised about the difference between eating at a restaurant where you can be sure the chef is in residence and one where the chef may be a brand name on a string of places. Ducasse has been cited as the latter chef and Adria as the former, but I suspect Bras could substitute for Adria with ease, or even be considered a better candidate to use as an example. My thoughts on the subject are that three star restaurants, by the nature of their operation, are dependent on a kitchen team and a chef who can administrate as well as any corporate executive. The hand of the chef is not much in evidence in many cases. His absence is noted not because he's not cooking, but because his staff is poorly trained and he isn't a good administrator. Your comments here seem inline with those who find the joy in the smaller dining rooms of chefs with less fame rather than in those three star places with chefs who are, or are not, at home. I'm a fence sitter on this and enjoy a great range. time may tell where I drift and in whose dining rooms I spend the most time.

In regard to le Vieux Pont, where I've eaten three times, while this was my first meal at Bras, I found Nicole Fagegaultier's cooking more like Bras' the first time I was there and least like where Bras is now on this last visit to le Vieux Pont. Her influences seem further afield now. That's an observation not a judgement of any sorts.

Needing to comtemplate it afterwards might apply to both, but I think it's particularly true about Bras. I can easily see one diner transfixed by dinner at Bras, and another not getting it at all, or at least at first. I should note that there were some aspects of the evening I found very distracting and perhaps I will get to them if I have time and am able to phrase them so they are in context of the meal and remain subordinate to the cuisine. Fortunately the distractions were mainly early in the evening and the food when it arrived, refocused my attention.

[seanw]

Thanks for posting the menu,

                               I remember that the regional chef's idea of rare is a tad different from U.K/U.S interpretations hopefully the meat was at least tepid.Michel does possess a tank to contain lobsters(Breton) & I do remember occasionally freshwater shrimp sourced regionally.Peter Graham recounts in his book(Mourjou),v. enjoyable read, stories of such creatures that are amongst protected status due to the dubious practices of farmers which have diminished their numbers considerably(I imagine that can also account to some extent for the farmed/wild nature of the fario trout served at Michel Bras.

                        I did not mean to suggest that Michel focuses on ocean fish, if my memory serves me correct he would generally provide one ocean fish, such as bream,turbot,sea bass etc, at any one time with the addition of Zander,from the Loire, or possibly salmon.I would suggest such an addition to the menu provides variety & balance that may entertain a wider client base but never compromising quality & never affecting too adversely the regional bias of the menu.

[robert brown]

Sean, are you the American from California I spoke with circa 1988 when the restaurant was in the town? Did you work at Mondrian after that? Thanking you in advance,

Robert

[Bux]

Seanw, I would not discourage Bras or any other chef from obtaining the best ingredients he could find of any kind he chose to use. It's just that his locale is so much a part of his mystique that I was drawn to the items I could associate with the Aubrac--at least on my first visit. In Lyon, no closer to the ocean than Laguiole, we stopped for oysters in the central market, because they were appealing, not because we were seaside. Perhaps focus was a poor choice of word or misinterpretation of what you said. It's just that I associate Bras with a local focus because I think that's what he wants us to do. I should imagine he has a fine hand with lobster and that it would get the sort of treatment I like from him.

The beef was more than tepic. It was definitely very warm and definitely not raw. I've failed to communicate the texture and sashimi may have been the wrong example. It's the lack of caramelization or crust I wanted to emphasize.

[seanw]

Robert,

          I am not the American that you connected with in '88.I worked at Bras '98/'99(In an earlier thread I think I may have given the impression that I worked in the town because of my stating that MB had input on the design of the new restaurant,which of course he did,but was actually referring to the upgrading of the restaurant in '99 in association with Eric Raffy)& for my sins hold British papers.

        Bux- I completely understand what you mean about the local ingredients being all part of the mystique of the experience, perhaps I didn't make myself clear due to being as much surprised as yourself to see fario trout on the menu as I believe it has been absent for a number of years.You are correct in assuming that MB wants you to enjoy the product of his region, but I propose chefs enjoy using & experimenting with other high quality products as much as to offer choice to their clientele.

[grahamtigg]

I'm also interested in your comment that Bras has become less personal.

I refer to the feel of the restaurant and the public facing staff. There seem to be new faces serving each year and, as a generalisation, they come across as bored aspiring professionals with limited pride and commitment to the place. This is not a new problem. Catering is regarded as a serious career in France of course, but the downside is that too many young people seem to drift into it who are apparently unsuited and they are seemingly taught to take it all too seriously. My perception is that, the further up the prestige tree a restaurant gets the more of this type they seem to have to employ. Of course occasionally one gets lucky, and such remote locations can't help.

[cabrales]

Below is a description of one of the meals taken at M Bras during 2Q 2002. Note I applied the standards for a French three-star, and found the meal gentle and appropriate, but not evocative.

Menu Decouverte et Nature (Menu of Discovery and Nature)

La gargouillou de jeunes legumes, dit “classique”, releve de graines germees et d’herbes champetres

Le filet de turbot etuve, assaisonne de miettes de lard; des radis glacons, jus de roquette sauvage et une emulsion a l’huile rance

Le foie gras de canard poele; un jus a l’orange et au sucre entire, poireau tout jeune.

Une puree de navet adoucie d’une creme; un jus aux truffes noires et des feuilles fatiguees.

Le carre d’agneau Allaiton roti sur os; plantain corne de cerf et feuilles d’erythrone . . . touche de citron sel-sucre, le jus parfume.

Les fromages AOC de l’Aveyron et d’a cote, et l’ecir de l’Aubrac

Sur une interpretation du coulant, original de 81. Le biscuit tiede de chocolat coulant au sucre entire; creme glacee au caramel et au beurre noisette.

Les fraises mara des bois de la vallee du Lot ecrasees sur de la peau de lait, voile de sucre demerara.

Le sorbet au fromage blanc, jus au pain brule.

House aperatif (1 of 3); "Fraicheur des fleurs" (Sureau flower)

Pouilly Fume, Pur Sang, D Dagueneau 1998

Glass of Chateau Gres Saint Paul 1999 (Languedoc)

Aperatifs were taken, in my case, in the salon to the left of the main entryway to the building. Nice, modern-shaped, ivory-colored leather individual sofas, with tables featuring different objects: mine included dried oranges and a dried lotus leaf. Others featured my dreaded testtubes (fortunately, not in the serving of the food, like at Veyrat’s Ferme de Mon Pere) with rocks and crystals?

The aperatif was nice – a white flower from the region had been made into a slightly sweet, but very aromatic, light-consitency liquer-like substance (perhaps between liquer and wine). The amuses arriving were (1) a single coque-mouillettes – an eggshell with a very runny part of the yolk sitting together with cloud-like semi-solid whisps of white; this day there was cerfeuil (chervil) in a little green mixture atop the egg; also, there were 3 little strips of thin strands of bread on the black serving board; included was a paper explaining the origin and principles behind these eggs); (2) tartine of cepes – like a dessert flan, but savory and very nicely done; thin and with the white of thinly-sliced mushrooms done well. Before I arrived in the dining room, I was already offered a kitchen tour - an excellent beginning.

When I went to the dining room, the rest of the amuses were served. They were served on three silver-colored spoons with short handles for direct placement into the mouth. The colors of the items were nice. They were (1) black radish mixtur, (2) pied de porc, with nice, clear gelatin tastes, and (3) a mixture of cod.

Interesting things about the table: (1) the serving of a thin crisp of siegle bread, flavored with cumin, positioned upright on a black roundish stone-like item, as well as other bread that is broken at the table, (2) ready offering of water from Aubrac, which I have to admit did not taste good at all (I adhered to wine), (3) a metallic specially designed stand on the right hand side of the diner for sauce spoon/sauce, fork and knife, and (4) the retained use of the same Laguiole knife throughout all relevant portions of the meal (this is apparently a local tradition).

The gargouillou dish was gentle, but not particularly flavorful. Included were beautifully prepared, just cooked radishes, carrots, turnips, cauliflower, haricot verts, leaves, violet-colored small flowers (not thyme), green asparagus, surprisingly sweet seeds and roots of bean sprout (?) or bean. The adornments were: at the bottom, a slight hint of butter in the medium-brown jus, a strip of sweet burgundy-flavored syrup, and other items. I liked the utilization of chervil and chives in this dish, included as one item in the vegetables. The grainy seed-like items were fine. A gentle, but not particularly effective, dish. I didn’t particularly appreciate the utilization of rather cooked thin slices of jambon (not Serrano or Jabugo from Spain, likely some type of French country ham) in significant quantities in this dish. It disrupted the equilibrium inhering in the primarily vegetable composition, and was a bit stark for the rest of the dish. Admittedly, it might have been intended to confer flavor and saltiness. However, I would not have utilized this particular ingredient for such purposes.

The turbot was served with rocket and garlic flower. The fish’s flesh looked a bit transparent, and tasted fine, if a bit lacking in fatty components. The garlic flower was the highlight of the fish – stronger than garlic and with a strong aftertaste in the mouth. Its stalk reminded me of the taste of a very pungent spring onion stalk. The flower was cute, almost like a bluebell, but white. Overall, I was not particularly impressed with this dish either.

The foie gras was appropriate. There were orange flakes in a long stem-like pattern on the plate, and the orange sauce was fine – not too strong. The use of a single long leek stem was nice. The watercress-like item accompanying this dish was also fine. But this dish was not compelling.

Then, a small cup of turnip with a strong flavoring of truffles. This was fine – nothing special. All of the above dishes were taken with the Pur Sang Pouilly Fume (90 euros). It was less developed than certain other ones I have had, being a 1998.

The wine by the glass of red Languedoc I received was a nice purple in color, and, while on the simple side, was nice for the lamb as well. The lamb was very soft, nice use of acidity and bitterness from the confit lemons to highlight the softness of the lamb. There was no meaningful fat in the lamb, and this was a nice rendition. Nowhere close to being the most interesting lamb dish I have had, but a dish I enjoyed.

I chose all Blue cheeses from the cart: 2 kinds of Roquefort (Societe Cave de Baragnoles, spelling, and a smaller producer), Forme d’Ambert and a Blue de Causses that was excellent. The weakness were the green apple slices I requested – they were chunks. Even with my poor cutting skills, with the Lagiole knife, I could cut each chunk into 7 thin slices for my own utilization. A poor presentation of a requested item.

The strawberries were nice. The sweet sorbet like mixture was sweet in the mouth, but smelled of mushrooms on the nose.

Background on Dining Room

Tables are clothed in “baggy” cloth with elastic holding them down to the tables. Their legs are an angular, modern shape. The chairs are a dark grey, with weird tones of purple, and have curved legs and little decorative elements where the leather meets the wood. The table is too low for the chair, and I am unable to cross my legs the way I like while keeping them underneath the table. I am furnished a table directly looking onto the plains. It is initially very foggy, which gives wonderfully poetic effects. But I see the light turn to a medium, moderated blue as the evening wears on and finally to darkness. The darkness outside makes one concentrate on the lit room inside more.

There are little white, semi-transparent screens dividing sections of generally 2 tables each, along the row that is closest to the window space. There is no division along the “back” row which is not closer to the window.

Excerpts from Welcome Notebook Included in Rooms

Wishing to get as close as possible to nature, we built our new home here in 1992.

The buildings have all been designed around the principle of discovery and enjoyment of Aubrac. The architecture is as rigorous as the landscape and uses its own materials and rules, working with the light and plants and stones, to create a purely contemporary interpretation of our countryside.

Laid out in three parts (restaurants and bedrooms) the long low buildings are laid out perpendicular to an old cattle drive which used to run between the hotel entrance and the Laguiole parish church, the local landmark.

We wanted to integrate the new buildings as much as possible into the surrounding environment. The main body of the building – restaurant, reception des and lounge – has the same long low shape as a basalt column springing from the earth, massive and slanted, like a modern “buron”. The same form defines the roof, which floats over the transparency of the glass walls. This contrast between the two ends of the building reinforces the notion of a form jutting out from the ground. The restaurant looks out over the countryside, allowing the light to flood in. The lounge at the other end is glazed from floor to ceiling and feels a bit unreal.

The bedrooms are based on the same principles so that all the buildings enjoy an architectdural continuity and harmony. Most of them are at ground level. A gentle hollow in the ground ensures the privacy of each room so guests feel that Aubrac is all their own. Bedrooms and bathrooms open on to the countryside thanks to the large French windows. They have been designed to let you feel in perfect harmony with nature’s scents, with the flowers, and with the songs of the birds.

In these rooms, the sky is your neighbor, the garden and Aubrac your companion. The impression of space is overwhelming. From this viewpoint which we feel is magical, the everchanging Aubrac unfolds before us, delighting all our senses. This is Aubrac, a land which reassures us of the true meaning of beauty, and which defines for us the notion of what is good.

Ginette, Veronique Bras and Sergio are available to advise you. . . . If you wish, they will be pleased to accompany you on a tour of the kitchen where Michel Bras, the “Chef routard” will draw a route on a map of your personal choice. He will un veil for you the wild and unsuspected beauty of Aubrac. . . .

Our Environment. Over the years our sensibility has been formed by the landscape of Aubrac. Rediscovering it every day anew, little by little it reveals its mysteries, its magic and awake in us new ideas of beauty and delight. The flora, faithful offspring of the environment, reveals to the visitor the subtle harmony of this land. Even though Aubrac is often considered to be well-preserved, it is nonetheless a fragile eco-system which is increasingly being threatened. In the hotel grounds, we have planted a selection of many species. This, close at hand, you will be able to discover them. In front of your bedroom a planting of seven different varieties symbolizes the flowers of Aubrac: Violette des Sudettes, Potentille doree, Genet aile, Gentiane jaune, Oeillet des bois, Jasione perenne, Thym-serpolet. Along the ‘draille’ which guides you to your bedroom: Reine des pres, The d’Aubrac, Silene, Cistre (fenouil des Alpes) . . . in all more than 60 local species.

Misc Information

Special 3-day halfboard packaget for 2002, valid Tues- Friday (except in July/August). Beverages excluded. Includes double room, 3 dinners and breakfasts included, three themes (indefinable Aubrac, art and culture in Aveyron, sporting activities). Double room “Garden of Aubrac” for 2 1045 euros, for 1 734 euros. “Space of Aubrac” – for 2 1189 euros, for 1 878 euros.

I rented a car from Montpellier – about a 3.5 hour drive, although Michelin indicates it is about 2 hours and 50 minutes.

I noticed that Bras credited one of the dessert items on his menu (Croutes de dragees garnies de chocolate, une creme vierge (sur une idee de Jules Bressel?)a la vanille de Tahiti.

[cabrales]

I forgot to mention there were little popsicle-presentation-type items after the primary desserts.

[Matthew Grant]

Can anybody that has been to Michel Bras tell me how easy it is to get there? I was hoping to go by train starting off at Barcelona and maybe stopping off on route, any suggestions or is this a non starter?

[jordyn]

I'm not as familiar with travelling around France as other board members, but I'm pretty sure you'll need a car. Not only do I not remeber there being train service to Laguiole, but the restaurant itself is a ways out of town.

You could probably take a train to Rodez, and then drive from there.

[Matthew Grant]

Thanks, I was just looking at this but can't work out where i can get a train to Rodez from?

[jordyn]

According to the sncf.com website, there seem to be trains from Toulouse to Rodez.

There's also an airport in Rodez, but it doesn't look like there are flights from Barcelona (there are from Paris--I didn't bother checking anywhere else).

[grahamtigg]

Toulouse to Rodez by train at two hours or so will be the quickest. There is also a line from Beziers to Clermont Ferrand that goes through Millau - very scenic, slow and only a couple of trains a day. The nearest town on the line to Bras is Marvejols - less that an hours drive over the Aubrac plateau. Whether you can hire a car there is another matter.

[cabrales]

Matthew -- While I have never gone from Barcelona to Laguiole, consider not just Rodez (check car rental pricing relative to larger towns), but also Montpellier (home of three-starred Jardin des Sens -- not offering good cuisine in my view). Montpellier is less than 3 hours' drive from Laguiole. There is a direct train, according to SNCF, at least once a day from "Barcelona Sants" (can a member confirm that is a main train station) to Montpellier, requiring 4.5 hours. Another member could perhaps advise on whether Barcelona-Rodez would require a markedly longer train journey.

[Matthew Grant]

Mmmmmmmm Its a wonder he gets anybody going there its so awkward to get too!

Still I am (at the moment) fairly determined to go and tie it in with my El Bulli visit

Barcelona Rodez takes around 10 hours, I also want to head to Paris afterwards and that takes another 7 hours (I can see my patience wearing thin)! Cabrales, as for eating in Montpellier, we will be giving it a miss, we will be living off nutella and Baguette between 3 stars!

Can anybody advise on the rooms at Michel Bras? Whats the difference between Space of Aubrac and Garden of Aubrac?

[cabrales]

Barcelona Rodez takes around 10 hours, I also want to head to Paris afterwards and that takes another 7 hours (I can see my patience wearing thin)!  Cabrales, as for eating in Montpellier...

Can anybody advise on the rooms at Michel Bras? Whats the difference between Space of Aubrac and Garden of Aubrac?

Matthew -- Going to Bras is moot unless you are visiting Barcelona after March. I believe we are in the middle of Bras' annual multi-month closing. He usually reopens sometime in April (?). Please verify the above prior to reliance.

I was suggesting a direct train from Barcelona (if another member confirms the train station name) to Montpellier, as an alternative to Rodez as the train destination station. Barcelona Montpellier is only 4.5 hours, and you can drive for 3 hours. Rodez car rentals might be expensive (no information there). Note I am not indicating Montpellier coupled with drive is superior, just an alternative you should investigate. Montpellier has all the major car rental companies.

If Barcelona-Rodez takes 10 hours (before counting the short journey from Rodez to Laguiole), but Barcelona-Montpellier-Lagiole takes 7-8 hours, the latter route would seem preferable.

On accessing Paris from Lagiole, note that if you are renting a car from Montpellier, you would generally minimize costs by returning the car to the same location as that from which it was rented. Montpellier has a 3-4 hour TGV to Paris (please verify prior to reliance). A TGV might be more expensive than a regular train.

The Bras website has room prices. I stayed two nights there. Rooms are quite beautiful, although I did not purchase the least expensive rooms. If cost is a concern, there are less expensive accommodations at Laguiole itself -- consult the Red Guide (Michelin). The rooms I occupied (different for each night, as I had reserved late) had white as their color theme. Comfy beds; light wood; very modern and clean looking. Nice expanse of window area (a sliding door and moor) looking out onto the landscape beneath. Each room I was in had a table with decorations of pressed flowers and other local objects beneath a glass protective sheet. I received a grey knapsack (with a Michel Bras white fern-like-item logo on the outside pocket of the knapsack) as a result of buying the room. I actually use that knapsack from time to time; it is not ugly.

http://www.relaischateaux.com/site/us/Fich...age&RcCode=bras

(picture from Relais & Chateaux does not do room justice)

The difference between Space and Garden rooms is size and relative location within the Bras complex (i.e., views). The cheaper would be more than sufficient, but I have not yet occupied one. R&C suggests rate is 183-320 euros. The Bras website has more info.

Edited February 4, 2003 by cabrales (log)

[grahamtigg]

The Montpellier options does look quicker. The train (there are just two a day) leaves Barcelona-Sants at 8:45 and arrives at Montpellier at 13:16. This train also stops at Beziers 12:36 that has the same drive time to Laguiole and a much less stressful drive to reach the open road. Allowing an hour for stops you will be at Bras before 5 p.m.

On the car hire front most of the big companies (Avis, Hertz) allow one way in France at no extra cost, so you could drive from Laguiole to Clermont-Ferrand (2 hrs) and pick up a train to Paris e.g. the 12:54 that arrives Gare de Lyon at 16:34. This will be much quicker than returning to e.g. Montpellier and takes in some new scenery.

[cabrales]

While Montpellier seems significantly further geographically from Paris than Clermont-F., the track speed is excellent along all stretches of the Montpellier-Paris route.

A. Option Using Montpellier Train

Drive from Lagiole to Montpellier 2 hours 36 min (Michelin; quickest route selection)

Montpellier-Paris TGV 3.5 hours (per SNCF website)

Total: Around 6 hours

If you choose the Montpellier route, you can dine very inexpensively at a hotel that has more than ten Roqueforts in its cheese selection. See my old posting under another M Bras thread. You can also visit Roquefort-sur-Sulzon and the caves where Roquefort (at least Societe and Papillon) are placed.

Also, note that, if Jardin des Sens prices are unappealing to you, you could consider the bistro Companie des Comptoirs, where menus are indicated to begin at 38 euros. I dislike the Pourcels' cuisien at JdS, and have never eaten at the Companie in Montpellier (nor another Companie), so I would not recommend Companie.

http://www.jardindessens.com/fr/restaurant.htm

B. Option Using Clermont-Ferrand

Drive from Lagiole to C-F (Michelin; quickest route selection) 2 hours 01 min

Sample train today from C-F to Paris (are there TGVs?) 3.7 hours (per SNCF website)

Total: Around 6 hours (slightly shorter, but not by more than 30 minutes)

On drop-off charges, I have paid them with some companies. I am more limited in my rental of cars in France, because I can't drive manual.

Edited February 5, 2003 by cabrales (log)

[Bux]

Several things to bear in mind about renting a car in France. Few companies and few locations may have automatic transmissions available. Only the larger more espensive models will be available with automatic transmission and there may be a considerably higher charge for those models with automatic transmission than with manual transmission. To the best of my knowledge, none of the major companies have drop off charges within France, but that may well be different for cars with automatic transmission. Charges for one or two day rentals are usually steeper than the per day charge for longer periods.

Michel Bras' inn is not at all awkward to get to, it just requires a car. Otherwise it's next to impossible. Having dined at both Bras and El Bulli as well as having toured the area between them many times, I can only wonder at your interest in doing both in one trip let alone eating little but nutella and bread inbetween. It's truly none of my business, but I'm curious about your previous travel in France or Spain and experience in eating in either of those countries. I suppose I'm curious about your dining habits in the UK as well. I share neither John Whiting nor John Thorne's antipathy towards haute cuisine and grand luxe restaurants. I enjoy them very much. Nevertheless I question why anyone might attempt this, and on a budget no less. How much time are you spending in Barcelona and Catalonia? Where else are you going in Spain and France? Forgive me if I'm out of line.

[cabrales]

El Raco de Can Fabes or a three-star in Paris (where Matthew indicated he is returning after Lagiole) would be the natural three-star "second" meal. Also, an exploration of the non-three-star venues in Barcelona would seem to be potentially worthwhile. That being said, Bux, I don't see anything inappropriate about targeting specific restaurants that Matthew might want to visit.

Speaking only for myself, I might very well pick Bras among the southern France/quasi-southern France three-stars. Jardin des Sens and Guerard's Eugenie are much weaker than Bras, in my mind (particularly JdS).

6 hours is not a long time to travel for a three-star in which one is (or was) interested. I have done that using public transportation from Paris to Megeve, for example.

[Bux]

6 hours is not a long time to travel for a three-star in which one is (or was) interested.  I have done that using public transportation from Paris to Megeve, for example. 

I rest my case.

I don't think I said anything about it being inappropriate, but your devotion to this sort of thing is well documented and you've a history of doing this over a long period of time. I would expect you could write a considerable thesis on why you went to any single restaurant or any two in combination. I also believe its been well documented that you would not live on nutella and baguette to afford the three star meals.

El Raco de Can Fabes is a three star restaurant. All things being equal, I would value a meal there as much as one at Bras. There are lesser restaurants, even unstarred restaurants in Barcelona that if not worth the voyage, are certainly worth not running from. These are difficult choices and what is appropriate to one person won't be appropriate to another.

I'm not so much interested in advising him how to spend his time and money as I am in learning what sort of person would by pass Can Fabes or Can Roca, especially when the issue of budget has been raised.