Michel Bras, Laguiole

[grahamtigg]

6 hours is not a long time to travel for a three-star in which one is (or was) interested. I have done that using public transportation from Paris to Megeve, for example.

We have travelled in a day from the Herault near Montpellier to Bras, and these days Vieux Pont in Belcastle (as the overall experience is more enjoyable), more than a dozen times. The overall drive time is nearer 7 hours or more because seeking out all the scenry on minor back roads is a big part of the day. The driving is also much more relaxed (less traffic) than the main roads. The big drawback is that a competent and enthusiastic navigator is essential.

I will stand by my Beziers to Clermont Ferrand suggestion. The journey times are the same as Montpellier, the train fare will be cheaper, there is less driving and, perhaps most importantly, you get to see a bit more of the Auvergne.

Much as I love Montpellier, I would sacrifice a night spent there to one in the Languedoc/Auvergne countryside.

I've never visited the Roquefort caves, but be warned that Roquefort-sur-Sulzon is one of the least attractive villages in France.

[Matthew Grant]

Michel Bras' inn is not at all awkward to get to, it just requires a car. Otherwise it's next to impossible. Having dined at both Bras and El Bulli as well as having toured the area between them many times, I can only wonder at your interest in doing both in one trip let alone eating little but nutella and bread inbetween. It's truly none of my business, but I'm curious about your previous travel in France or Spain and experience in eating in either of those countries. I suppose I'm curious about your dining habits in the UK as well. I share neither John Whiting nor John Thorne's antipathy towards haute cuisine and grand luxe restaurants. I enjoy them very much. Nevertheless I question why anyone might attempt this, and on a budget no less. How much time are you spending in Barcelona and Catalonia? Where else are you going in Spain and France? Forgive me if I'm out of line.

Not at all Bux, I work a shift pattern which allows me two weeks off by just taking 3 days holiday, after securing my reservation at El BUlli, it occurred to me that I would have to take these 3 days off leaving me with a heap of time to travel around a little. The obvious place to travel to after El Bulli was Barcelona, a place we have been to before and were keen to explore again, we are going to spend 4 nights here. Then after a bottle of wine or two we got thinking about where else we could visit, we had only just been talking about returning to Paris and thought that this would be a good idea, especailly if we simply jumped on a train (I enjoy travel on trains), however one thing led to another and looking at what was in between Barcelona and Paris I realised that there was Michel Bras, a restaurant that appeals to me both from a design and a food perspective. By this time the drink was really taking hold and the long travel times seemed quite reasonable Subsequently, With Graham and Cabrales help, I find myself booked into Michel Bras a week after eating at El Bulli. I am happy to drive for short periods of time but due to my desire to have a drink while on Holiday I prefer to only do this where necessary and for a couple of days at a time.

As for the budget, it isn't that strict and my Nutella tale should be taken with a pinch of salt (although a few years ago when we were poorly backpackers, we really did eat Nutella and bread for lunch everyday for what seemed like weeks but was proabably only a few days). The only thing we are trying to restrict is the travel and accomodation costs, the train is the cheapest option and we will stay in Pensions and small hotels (except at MB). We will fly into Girona an out of Paris.

As for our eating experience, well, we started out small and finsihed off big. I enjoy Haute Cuisine on occasions and the demise of the 3 stars (The Oak Room, Nico, La Tante Claire were all visited while 3 star restaurants) in England leaves us wanting to visit 3 stars abroad, El Bulli has interested me for a long time and after a meal and a couple of days in the kitchen at The Fat Duck I was convinced that it was worth the effort. We eat out most weekends when I am not working, otherwise the weekend will be spent cooking. We enjoy all types of cuisine.

The only thing left to decide is where to eat in Paris, it seems a shame not to visit a 3 star there as well! Recommendations for smaller/cheaper establishments also gratefully received.

[Bux]

If flying into Girona, have you considered El Celler de Can Roca? It is a two star restaurant. I've always felt two stars generally offer the best value and this was no exception. It's in the suburbs and we stayed downtown and took a taxi. A taxi ran five or six euros each way. Just being able to make use of the sommelier's suggestion of a desert wine made it worth the expense.

El Raco de Can Fabes in Sant Celoni has been mentioned numberous times here, but can't be mentioned too often.

It makes sense to drive in and out of Michel Bras. Fortunately he has very lovely rooms in which to spend the night after consuming a reasonable amount of alcohol. Unfortunately, they are not particularly budget priced--on the other hand, for what they offer, they may well be considered a bargain. Were he in any more accessible or prosperous part of France, his rates would be much higher. Certainly if you appreciate his sense of design, you will enjoy staying in his rooms. We stayed in one of his less exspensive rooms. At the time, the only fault I found was with the less than enclosed bathroom. Privacy was less of a problem than having the same temperature in the bathroom and bedroom. I like to sleep in a cool room with a window open, but I like to step into a warm bathroom for my morning shower.

If you spend more than a day in the area, I concur with Graham's recommendation of le Vieux Pont in Belcastel.

[cabrales]

On the bathrooms mentioned by Bux, they were indeed separated from the main bedroom area by a partition that does not extend to the ceiling in the two rooms I have stayed in. I did not like the aesthetics inside the bathrooms. Large, metallic jarring lamps in ostensibly modern shapes, around the sink areas.

Matthew -- Please consider reviewing the discussion Bux and I had a while ago about making sure you get access to the sofa area for aperatifs (or barring that, digestifs).

[Bux]

Matthew -- Please consider reviewing the discussion Bux and I had a while ago about making sure you get access to the sofa area for aperatifs (or barring that, digestifs).

Good point, and if bubbly is your aperatif, there's a local sparkling wine that will save you the price of jar of nutella for each glass you order. It's not champagne, but it's local and didn't insult my taste buds.

[cabrales]

On aperatifs, I think there is also at least one that includes gentiane (with orange juice). There are likely two. Both are quite interesting.

[grahamtigg]

On aperatifs, I think there is also at least one that includes gentiane (with orange juice). There are likely two. Both are quite interesting.

Gentiane with réglisse (licorice) and Eau de sureau (elderflower). Obviously completely different. Order one each and share - definitely rings the changes.

Edited February 7, 2003 by grahamtigg (log)

[cabrales]

One can order the gentiane with orange juice too. It was on the aperatif menu when I went in 2002.

[cabrales]

I was seated in the "front row" (right in front of the expanse of window frontage) of the restaurant with an unobstructed view of the local landscape. I wonder whether having purchased a room assists with respect to getting a "front row" table, and whether it would be impolite to ask for one without having purchased a room? In either case, you might wish to consider asking for a table that is "next to, in front of the window".

Note, if you are interested in conserving money, there is definitely no problem at this particular restaurant with drinking tap water (I recall the water is referred to as water of Aubrac and might even be brought fairly early on to the table).

I thought the coulant was disappointing, after sampling three different ones. However, it is a signature M Bras dessert and thought could be given to sampling it. It is frequently included in the tasting menus. The gargouile (spelling) is a vegetable composition for which Bras is also known.

[Bux]

I believe Cabby is correct about the water. As I recall we weren't asked if we wanted bottled water and were brought a pitcher of water. The presentation was almost as if it was decanted bottled water rather than tap water, but I don't recall a charge for water.

[cabrales]

There is no charge for the "tap" water, even though it is referred to more nicely as water from Aubrac or something like that. (Matthew -- As you know, Aubrac is the region where Bras' facility is.) The water arrives in a clear pitcher.

[Gavin Convery]

I would pay a little extra for a room which has full length windows or french doors - the one we had had high ceilings but high windows too and we were only able to see the view when standing up - the view is phenomenal especially at sunset from the restaurant. We also travelled from Spain (Costa Brava) to Michel Bras in one day but we were driving and I can confirm the necessity of a car to get there - also with a car you could take one of their suggested walks - they will provide a picnic if requested.

[Bux]

I was under the impression that we had one of the least expensive rooms and we had sliding glass doors with a view. My recollection was that the glass was full width of the room, but that might not be the actual case. In any event there was a wide view. As we were there on opening day, the inn may not have been full and there is the possibility that we were upgraded.

[Matthew Grant]

I'm already booked into a 'Space of Aubrac' room !

Gavin, how long did it tak to drive form the Costa Brava? My current plan is to take the train from Barcelona to Montpellier or Beziers and drive form there.

[Stephen Jackson]

Room 13 affords the best views and is a very agreeable size. Bear in mind, last time I asked for it, three months in advance, it had already been reserved. And we're friends of the Bras family!

[lizziee]

Matthew,

We had Space of Aubrac room #11 and it was magnificent. It was the last room with floor to ceiling windows which allowed for a 260 degree view of the countryside.

Be sure to order breakfast. Michel Bras sends a wooden basket decorated with flowers, a thermos of coffee, juice, creme caramel, honey, jam, bread, pastries, another basket of specialities of Laguiole, a cake filled with fruit, yogurt with strawberries and cheese.

For both dinners, we also sat directly in front of the windows. The room is long and your attention is focused on the exterior view with a fabric ceiling that has a "light show" of clouds moving by. Each pair of round tables is separated by white gauze and you enter your area by going over a stone bridge from the long hallway. It takes your breath away.

Also, be sure to have aperitifs in the lounge. It is spectacular like the prow of a ship sticking out over the end of the hotel - 100% glass. You feel as if you were floating in air.

[Matthew Grant]

This truly is a great place to have dinner. Our drive from Montpellier took us past some great scenery and beautiful countryside. Once we got to Laguiole it as a little hard to find but the local Foie Gras shop and a Gendarmerie soon helped us on our way. The pictures on the website really don't do it justice, the whole building feels like it is suspended on the edge of the hill with uninterrupted views over the surrounding countryside and at night the silence was almost absolute. However the real star of the show was the food.

Dinner started in the lounge area with blinds down to stop us being blinded by the sun. Billecart Salmon Rose Brut to begin before we were brought Coque-Mouilleltes - a perfectly cooked soft boiled egg flavoured with herbs and served with sesame 'soldiers' Unfortunately eggs are really not my thing at all so this went largely untouched. Next came Tarte aux ceps - beautiful thin crisp pastry simply adorned with sliced ceps.

We were then led to the dining room via the kitchen which I had requested to see - an oasis of calm at the time but our escort assured me that things did sometimes become very heated if things weren't going so well.

At the table we were served a large Parmesan crisp before our amuse: 3 silver spoons on which were a horseradish cream which was very mild with just a hint of garlic. Salmon with a herb cream (which was very green) and Pork with a Lentil vinaigrette. A nice start to the meal but things were going to get better.

We had chosen the tasting menu 'Decouverte & nature' . We started with “Gargouillou de jeunes legumes,dit "classique" releve de graines germees & d'herbes champetres”. This was a stunning dish to look at. All manner of young vegetables thinly sliced and cooked in stock, a wide variety of leaves and flowers spread about the plate with just two small pieces of ham. I can't begin to describe this dish properly, so delicate, yet so full of flavour, everything in just the right proportion to balance everything else. This dish must be very difficult to produce, it is served warm but everything must be cooked at just the last minute to make it so perfect. The ham added a touch of saltiness to the dish but otherwise did not really improve it.

Next came “Le Filet de turbot Croute au jambon & jeunes poireaux; touch de vinaigre & bouillon de pomme de terre, liveche”. My French is not good but I’m not so sure that the menu I have been given after the meal has the correct description for this dish. If anybody can correct me please do: This was the dish of the trip a great piece of turbot topped with a thin crust of what we think were peppers providing a pleasant, light sweetness. This was served on top of a bowl of potato broth and two small leeks. Completely and utterly perfect, this was the dish of our trip. It was so so good. Again, so simple to look at but I just wanted to drink that potato broth all day long.

“Le Foie-gras de canard poele-repose & du chou-rave; un assortment de kefir, de sesame & de fleurs d’ici” A thick slice of Foie gras which due to being rested was a little cooler than I would have preferred. This contrasted wonderfully with the Kohl-Rabi (?) which was cut in a thick circular slice and fried gently(?). Along side this was a small amount of sesame and a drizzle of a yoghurt type ingredient which I presume was the “kefir”. This added a nice tartness to the dish. In my opinion this was probably the weakest of the ‘main’ main courses but was good never the less

“Rapee d’asperges vertes, sautee a cru;un vinaigrette aux truffes de pays & huile d’olive en crème” Served in a small bowl, the asparagus was julienned and covered with a truffle flavoured vinaigrette which had excellent earthy tones. This was topped with a very light foam of olives. This dish rocked! Although Rachel merely thought it OK. The earthy truffle vinaigrette working hand in hand with the Asparagus with a slight hint of bitterness from the oliveoil foam that did not taste particularly of olives.

“le Carre d’agneau Allaiton roti sur os;pain de fromage acide & bouquet de jeunes feuilles vinaigrette au jus d’agneau” This appeared to be slow cooked lamb, quite young, with a pale pink colour. A light flavour with no browning at all, the fat on the outside perfectly white. The meat was medium to rare with no sign of blood. The lack of browning was made up for with the strong jus served alongside. There were also a few bitter leaves, which may have been dandelion, scattered on the plate. The bitter leaves worked well to contrast the strong sauce and the refreshing “fromage” acide a cream cheese with shallot chives and capers. At the same time a side plate was delivered to our table and the waiter served us a large portion of “Aligot” which was fantastically elastic in texture and very moreish. Wonderful creamy potatos mixed with cheese.

I remember the cheesecourse being good with an excellent Roquefort but unfortunately my note taking was becoming more sporadic by this point.

Chocolate Coulant version 81 was “le biscuit tiede de chocalat coulant; crème glacee au touron & café leger”. Fantastic presentation (we were actually given a poster of this dish the following morning when we checked out) the chocolate coulant in the centre of the plate with a small ball of a mild tasting coffee ice cream. The streak of caramel and lines of chocolate and sugar to the side. Unfortunately the coulant wasn’t as exciting a I was expecting, possiobly because of the overuse of coolants in restaurants over the last few years. It was very good but not the best. For me the chocolate centre could have been a little richer.

This was followed by what seemed like plates and plates of dishes, just at that point when you think that you can’t eat anything else. “Recuite de brebis associee a des gariguettes de la Vallee du Lot; epices et fleur d’oranger” and “La Crème glacee au pain brule, noix de Thubies” these were served with another plate described as “Eskimos” – little miniature ice creams, crème de menthe and vanilla with toffee were our favourites. As previously mentioned my notes are a little unclear at this point but I remember the “Recuite de brebis….” To be a sort of deconstructed cheese cake, a pot of cream, a touch of a biscuit type base and a pot of warm strawberry. Warm strawberry seems to be a bit if a thing in cooking at the moment and for me it doesn’t work, always ending up a like reheated strawberry jam. Not such a good dish.

A slightly disappointing finish but overall this was an outstanding meal. It has previously be mentioned before on Egullet that some of this cooking appears to be very simple. A lot of the dishes are very light but there is a good balance to the meal and the flavours, although delicate, are very good.

Other points: Service was good, unfortunately, our limited French was not helped by our waiters limited English and we couldn’t always get as much detail about dishes as we desired.

The room was lovely and light, aided by a perfect May evening with not a cloud in sight. Initially the blinds in the dining room were kept down but as the evening drew on the blinds were lifted and were witnessed a perfect sunset over the beautiful surrounding countryside – a perfect moment that will live with me forever.

Total cost excluding drinks was €137 per person (which we were told included service) I think this was excellent value for a meal of this calibre.

[Steve Martin]

Nice one Matthew.

The DVD shows the gargle is prepared earlier in the day and held in foil containers. It is probably best to blanch the veg at their freshest.

You haven't said what you drank, other than the champers.

My Bras page has some pics of the building and the Auvbrac, but mainly the menu which shows the variation on the themes.

[Matthew Grant]

Steve, can you describe the process for cooking the Gargouillou - I can't believe that it is cooked in advance Presumably they reheat it at the last moment?

Off hand I can't remember what we drank apart from a glass of Maury with the Coulant. I'll add details later. I do remember being disappointed that there was no advertised wine train for the set menus, maybe I should have asked.

[Steve Martin]

The veg is sliced and blanched in water salted at 20g/litre, then held in separate portions.

It is sauted with ham and what appears to be butter, at service.

[Stephen Jackson]

Michel Bras, October 8th, 2003

What a lovely day.

Clear, crisp blue October skies, the roads slick with crushed chestnuts, and the leaves a million shades of autumnal colour. My seventh annual pilgrimage up into the Aubrac, this time with my usual companion, my wife T, and my brother-in-law and his wife. A carful of hungry people took the short journey across the Lot from our house, and wound up through the chestnut forests to Laguiole. As is customary on these occasions, we all spent a ludicrous amount of money on knives at the Coutellerie (although in my defence, my expenditure was on knives to use in the restaurant, so I’m comfortable with that), followed by a light lunch at the never-fail Aubrac restaurant next door. The usual fare, served smilingly and quickly, and despite all our previous intentions, Aligot was ordered. You just can’t resist. I think it’s the food equivalent of crack. It was, as ever at The Aubrac, delightful; high on the garlic, low on the crème fraîche, and melt-in-mouth delicious. Various cuts of Aubrac beef were had, and all pronounced excellent. Bottle and a half of the Cuvee Maison, and a quick walk around the village until the leather shop opened. My sister-in-law bought a lovely coat at Estret (they’re based in Millau, and very good indeed. They make their leather from the less-productive Roquefort sheep, I’m told) So, already several Euros lighter than strictly sensible, we motored up the hill to Maison Bras. They’re building again (this time a new accommodation block for stagiaires), and the lovely little mushroom lights along the path up to reception have been replaced with about a dozen vertical neon tubes. I’m not convinced. I loved those little mushroom lights; they were always made mention of when wheeling suitcases up to the door. Ah well, Michelin need to be kept happy, I suppose, and change is inevitable. I’d have bought them off him if I’d known. They’d look lovely down our conifered driveway. Ho hum. Much planting of wild shrubs has taken place, too, but more of that in a moment.

A warm welcome from reception, and we were taken down to our rooms. Judicious booking several months previously had ensured that we got the best rooms (IMHO), 13 and 14. Open the curtains, and what’s this? More changes? In addition to digging away the grassy beds of wild plants by reception, each room is now separated by a raised bed of wild plants and flowers. It’s very pretty, or at least will be when they’ve settled and spread, but I used to love the wild aspect of the raised mounds of earth with sparse meadow plants that used to divide the viewing areas. It’s a little too manicured for my liking. Still, it’s all very new, so perhaps when the grass returns between the plants it won’t look quite so stark. Oh, they’ve redesigned the corridors to the rooms, too, so they’re now even darker, with flatscreen monitors inset at intervals, showing local scenes.

But enough of the peripherals. let’s have dinner, shall we?

We hit the surprisingly quiet lounge at 8:00, and waited for the others. As soon as they arrived, sommelier Sergio appeared, and we greeted and chatted. That man is brilliant. More of him later. I started, as is usual chez Bras, with a glass of Gentian aperitif (I’m sure it’s just Suze, but they don’t show you the bottle) and T had a pleasant white wine. My brother-in-law went for a local artisan beer from St. Geniez, and it certainly looked and smelt superb. His wife had a smashing white wine laced with the scent of fresh orange. A combination I’d not seen before, and one which I’m determined to try on my customers here next summer. It was lovely stuff.

To accompany drinks, the coques-mouillettes appeared, precious little bantam eggs, extremely soft-boiled, served this time with a little strong tomato paste and wholegrain toast ‘soldiers’. Then came the fantastic cep tartlets, which were new to our friends, and when I mentioned that there’s usually a bigger version available as a first course, they were decided even before the menus had arrived.

The first courses were an exceptional range of appetising dishes, excelling all previous menus chez Bras. I wanted EVERYTHING. Two cep tarts were already chosen, and my wife, T, who loves the gargouillou slightly more than me, I think, made straight for it as her first course. I was left with a difficult choice, but was taken by the arrival of a savoury ‘coulant’ on the menu. Those of you familiar with bras will know his trademarked flowing dessert ‘cakes’, and now it appeared, he’d made a leap into the savoury realm. It was a coulant of old Laguiole cheese, served with lettuce. It sounded intriguing. I ordered it after much deliberation. Our main courses were ordered swiftly too, and we headed for the table.

The dining room was already full, explaining the quiet bar, and we took our seats at one of the large windows, looking out over the darkening hillside. The usual suspects were present; the delicious, more-ish crispbreads, the iced butter with trademark sprig of ‘cistre’, the jug of water, the elegant cutlery with its regulation note about keeping one’s knife throughout the meal.

Our white wine arrived, an excellent dry Jurancon from Charles Hours. masses of citrussy fruit, and real elegance. A good food wine, we all agreed. Then came our amuse-gueules. Three tablespoons each, filled with: crisp green beans with a hazelnut fluffy cream; finely-chopped squid, dressed lightly and smeared with a sorrel oil, and foie gras mousse with a puree of fig. Each was wonderful, and I thought the bean/hazelnut one to be my personal favourite.

T’s gargouillou was, as ever, a joy to behold, and, I expect, a similar treat on the palate. Body-temperature vegetables, leaves, herbs, flowers with flickers of various vegetal creams and purees, and a little bit of ham for that salt kick. Like eating a small Japanese garden – fantastic. The cep tarts were pronounced excellent; immense rectangles of buttery puff pastry with tightly-layered slices of cep, and a small salad ‘du moment’. My cheese coolant was wonderful; a thin shell of what appeared to be breadcrumbs bound with egg white gave way to a flowing cheese centre made with old Laguiole cheese. An additional smear of cheese cream graced the slate upon which also rested half a ‘sucrine’ lettuce, dipped in a light vinaigrette. I’d never seen baby lettuces served in such a simple yet impressive way before. I shall try it with the last of the Little Gems from our greenhouse. It was a superb, sweet luscious lettuce, which complemented the ‘cheese on toast’ flavours of the ‘coulant’. A great first course.

With our main course, we drank an exceptional Montpeyroux (L’esprit de Font-Caude 1999, Alain Chabanon) which drank really well with all the main courses. Unbelievable quantities of meat appeared before us. T and I shared the cote de boeuf, which appeared with a small halved roast onion, a few chard stems and leaves, and a spectacular whisked pepper oil, which was emulsified (presumably with a light vegetable stock) to make a fantastic creamy peppery sauce. My brother in law had several hearty slices of venison, served simply with its cooking juices and mustard leaves, and his wife enjoyed three fantastic pale pieces of what she announced was the best lamb she’d ever eaten, accompanied by figs and a few greens. The aligot appeared as we were all facing defeat, but it’s way too good to pass up, so a few forkfuls were gladly used for the judicious mopping-up of the delicious meat juices.

The all-Auvergne cheese trolley was barely touched, but we had, between us, a lovely day-fresh Aubrac cow’s milk cheese, Gabriel Coulet’s exceptional Roquefort, a Laguiole that, in Yorkshire parlance ‘made my ears laugh’, so strong and floral was it, and a lovely sheep’s tome de Lavort from the Clermont area. Great cheeses.

Desserts thankfully came after a decent rest, during which we were entertained by a little mouse running up and down outside the dining room window. An amusing little interlude. T had one of the famous coulants, this one a pumpkin-filled flowing pud, with a beurre-noisette/coffee ice-cream. My brother-in-law went for the raspberry-filled variation, with a liquorice-raspberry sorbet (not very pleasant, I must add), but with a superb red wine/raspberry reduction. His wife had the excellent poached pear with the cornet of beurre noisette ice-cream and a trace of cocoa, which looked fabulous, and I went for the dish listed on the menu as ‘not for gourmets’ (for good reason; it’s awfully messy but lots of fun) – basically two crisp corrugated wafers of potato, sandwiching a beurre noisette flavoured chiboust cream, and a salted caramel. It went everywhere – across my cheeks, into my lap, and all over the plate, and it was delicious. It made me laugh out loud, and that is a very good thing indeed. I looked to see several other diners in similar messy predicaments, faces smeared with cream and exploding potato crisps. Our dessert wines, chosen by Sergio, were all absolutely spot-on accompaniments. Banyuls, Muscat Cap Corse, a stunning Rivesaltes Ambré for me, and, to accompany the raspberry coulant, a delicious sweet rosé wine, from Mas Jullien, called Carthagène. Excellent, excellent wine. I shall be trying to find that one as soon as possible.

We retired to the lounge for coffees, and the ‘pleasures of tobacco’ and had fine Armagnacs, Vieille Prune and Calvados. The petits-fours were the usual fare: chocolate ganache pots (this year enlivened with raisins soaked in an unknown spirit) and the exquisite liqueur de lait.

There followed a wonderful deep satisfied night’s sleep for one and all, and a typically delicious breakfast, with exceptional pastries, juices, fromage frais, marmalade and jams.

We paid up (717.65 Euros per couple) and it was then that I realised that I’d accidentally knocked the lights on our hire car when arriving the previous day. Battery flat as a pancake. Ah. Er…

I walked back up to reception, announced to everyone that I was a colossal idiot, and within seconds, Sergio raced off, and appeared in his little Peugeot alongside our car. Jump leads were applied, and within minutes, and after hearty thanks to this brilliant guy, we were heading down the hill into Laguiole, totally relaxed, satisfied, and eager to return.

It has been seven consecutive years for me, making this annual pilgrimage to Bras, and I have NEVER been disappointed. Of course, some things didn’t please as much as others, but I have yet to find a restaurant, or indeed a hotel, that delivers exactly what I want, what I like, on every single visit, without exception. The welcome is like walking into a friend’s house, the food is cutting edge without being an exercise in tolerance, and the staff, particularly M. Calderon, are genial, friendly, happy and extremely good at their jobs.

If you haven’t been, I’ve just one word for you: GO.

And now the clock is ticking until visit no. 8. It cannot come too soon.

[Bux]

And the bias being from the point of view of a connoisseur of good food, or just the good life.

I trust that price included room and board? Not cheap, but a bargain by Parisian terms. I also trust this is a second visit to France this year, or have you been at your house since July?

[winemike]

Thanks for this review from Michel Bras.

I have visited his place and it's amazing indeed. His "Gargouillou de jeunes legumes" has to be among

the best dishes ever produced. Both visually and tastewise. This masterpiece is worth the trip alone.

Something I must say about his food is that desserts, IMHO, were not up to the rest of the meal.

"Approximate tries" such as pumpkin icecream on a stick with different dipping sauces left me

with a strange feeling .. and interrogations ... The taste just wasn't there.

But that's just a small negative note to point out that it's not a biased post ;-)

I would recommend to anyone who has not been there to GO !!

Mike.

[Lesley C]

I heard a rumour that Bras will soon be retiring and handing the kitchen over to his son. Does anyone know if there's any truth to this one? My source was quite reliable.

[Matthew Grant]

I'm not sure whether that rumour is true or nt but during my visit earlier this year the food was attributed to Michel and Sebastien Bras so it would not surprise me.

I am desperate to go back, when I was there earlier this year they had a special midweek price of 3 days for 1100Euros per couple including 3 dinners! An abosolute bargain.