A dandy

[Florida Jim]

With an exquisite aged Gouda:

2003 Campos Reales, Tempranillo:

Black cherry and earth nose; ripe black cherry, earth and spice tones, satin smooth but good grip, balanced; finishes long and lingering. 13.5% alcohol, imported by Stacole and $7. I continue to be impressed with the low-end Spanish tempranillos. I think there is more variation in style at higher price points, but the low-end seems to be pretty consistent – nothing great but everything (or nearly so) good or better.

And this wine can be bought today, fully ready to drink tonight.

2003 Rubens, Tempranillo:

The darker side of the variety both on the nose and palate with more black fruit and a good bit more earthiness and structure; still balanced and concentrated with a worsted mouth-feel and good grip. 13.5% alcohol, Eric Solomon imports and about $7.

Another time:

1997 Showkett, Sangiovese:

I had given this bottle away to a friend and it wound-up in a blind tasting of various sangiovese based wines; it reminded me of an older Chianti with an interesting (and not unattractive) aromatic element of sea-air. It did not come across alcoholic or woody or port-ish – and that is saying something, considering the number of times it has in the past. What a (nice) surprise.

(As a part of this blind tasting, we tried a number of Brunello, Super-Tuscan, Chianti and other wines of the variety; once again, I am convinced that this is not the grape for me. There is the rare exception (especially, older Brunello) but generally speaking, one wine tastes pretty much like the rest – at least, to me. I would love to hear if others think this grape can be transparent to its terroir; I have almost no evidence to that effect. And I ask because I think the variation I seek arises from that quality.)

With assorted cheeses:

1999 Nikolaihof, Riesling Spätlese Steiner Hund:

Dramatic aromatics that show layers of minerality, assorted white fruits. delineation and intensity – becomes more integrated with airing; immense depth of flavors that follow the nose, again a mineral profile that shows lots of complexity in itself, great cut and intensity, concentration balance and a very long, captivatingly complex finish. Young, powerful, inspiring wine that, with air, allows one a glimpse of the majesty this grape can attain.

(After a 6 month hiatus from my cellar this indulgence reminded me of why I have a cellar – nectar of the gods.)

With NY strips, and assorted vegetable purées:

2002 Altos, Malbec Reserva Viña Hormigas:

A bit candied on the nose and slightly off (I thought it was corkiness at first but, later, I thought it was related to the oak treatment) with plum, blackberry and cassis scents; extracted, dense and non-descript on the palate with concentration, intensity and nothing to distinguish it from any other similarly extracted, etc. wine. Not bad, but not exciting.

2001 Texier, Côte-Rotie VV:

Alluring bacon, smoky, meaty scents woven into both red and dark fruit aromas with spice, white pepper and earth accents – a complete nose and wonderfully typical of its place; medium bodied, elegantly textured in the mouth with flavors that follow the nose with complexity and intensity while never losing that weightless quality really elegant wines have; long, balanced finish. 13% alcohol, imported by Vintner Select and utterly delicious.

Best, Jim

[DTBarton]

(As a part of this blind tasting, we tried a number of Brunello, Super-Tuscan, Chianti and other wines of the variety; once again, I am convinced that this is not the grape for me. There is the rare exception (especially, older Brunello) but generally speaking, one wine tastes pretty much like the rest – at least, to me. I would love to hear if others think this grape can be transparent to its terroir; I have almost no evidence to that effect. And I ask because I think the variation I seek arises from that quality.)

I would tend to agree that sangiovese doesn't vary as much within the varietal as most other grapes. For me, though, that's kind of a positive, as I like the straightforward flavor of the grape and think it pairs well with simple Italian fare. I also don't have to do as much research in to wineries and vintages, just pick up a few reasonably priced bottles and enjoy with simple pasta.

Plus, the candles in the bottles go so well with my red and white checked tablecloth....

[Florida Jim]

I would tend to agree that sangiovese doesn't vary as much within the varietal as most other grapes.  For me, though, that's kind of a positive, as I like the straightforward flavor of the grape and think it pairs well with simple Italian fare.  I also don't have to do as much research in to wineries and vintages, just pick up a few reasonably priced bottles and enjoy with simple pasta.

Plus, the candles in the bottles go so well with my red and white checked tablecloth.... 

A very good point.

About the candles, I mean . . .

Best, Jim