Learning curve

[Florida Jim]

After going through about 15 bottles of the 2003 Dolium, Syrah over the past year or so, I have come to the conclusion that this wine displays more bottle variation than any other I can remember. Two nights ago I’d have sworn it was a northern Rhone with no alcohol showing, complex aromatics, and a rich, layered palate. On other occasions, the alcohol has been obtrusive, the fruit candied, the aromatics simple and the overall impression one of supermarket juice. But there has been no progression over time; just random bottles that showed quite different from the last and the next. Odd stuff and even at $10 a bottle, I won’t buy it again.

On the other hand, I recently became acquainted with Laderas de Pinoso, a producer in Alicante, Spain. I started with their 2003 front-line bottling called Viñedos de El Sequé (about $8) which I found a delicious, well-balanced monastrell based wine. After a couple bottles, it became clear that this is not only good juice but has a cellar life ahead of it; so I bought a case.

Last night, I had my second bottle of its big brother, the 1999 El Sequé. Using 100+ year old monastrell vines, this is a terrific bottle of wine at any price; and even better for its $20 price tag. Deeply complex on the nose and palate showing the profile of the grape with smooth concentration, authenticity and persistence; obviously, I need to go get a box of this wine, as well.

Little by little the Iberian Peninsula is coming into focus. And even with the discrepancy between the dollar and the euro, many of these wines are bargains.

Viva España!

Best, Jim