Bartolo Mascarello

[jbonne]

rather than extend this thread, thought i'd start a new one.

wondering who else is feeling a bit glum about this weekend's news that Bartolo Mascarello, the recalcitrant patriarch of Barolo, passed away.

i posted my own thoughtsyesterday and the NYT's Eric Asimov weighs in today. mostly i'm sad because we only got to meet Mascarello last October. we'd just stumbled upon a treasure trove of his '03 barbera while in California last month, and grabbed all we could carry.

but mostly, it's unsettling because there are so few voices out there delivering the message he delivered: that wine's traditions are under assault.

thoughts? memories?

[Brad Ballinger]

I believe the daughter has been "running things" for some time now. The good news is that she is going to remain true to her father's beliefs -- unlike many other next generation winemakers.

I think the Asimov piece missed one other "NO C," and that's "no consultants."

[Craig Camp]

I was lucky enough to see Signore Mascarello last September, one last time before his death. There is much many winemakers and wine journalists could learn from his clear vision of what he wanted to create. Below I reprint an article I wrote have from last interview with him)

His hands once hardened by hard work in the vineyards are now delicate and unsteady. While the body is now weakened by age, the passion of a lifetime of work still burns brightly in his eyes. Bartolo Mascarello is Barolo and eight decades living among the nebbiolo, barbera and dolcetto vines planted by his father and grandfather before him have made the man and the wine one. The small winery located in the town of Barolo itself is a study in simplicity with no technology to separate the winemaker from the wine. The Mascarello label means purity and drinking their wines puts you into direct contact with the vineyards where they were born.

Bartolo has now passed on the winemaking to his daughter, Maria Teresa, whose vision of wine and drive for excellence burns as brightly as her father's. One thing you are sure of after a few minutes conversation with her is that this is not only an inherited passion, but one that burns deeply in her own heart. Her winemaking philosophy is clear: grow outstanding grapes in outstanding vineyards and then do as little as possible to them in their journey from fruit to wine.

Winemaking at Cantina Bartolo Mascarello is traditional and non-interventionist and they produce wines of uncommon elegance and balance with a purity of flavor that dances across the palate. The grapes for all of their wines comes from four vineyards: Cannubi, San Lorenzo and Ruè in Barolo and Rocche in La Morra. Rocche was the families start in the Langhe and was planted by Bartolo's grandfather and along with the portion in Cannubi, are their largest vineyards. The San Lorenzo vineyard is adjacent to Cannubi and very similar in quality and personality and the wines of Mascarello clearly show the famed aromatics and refinement that has made the wines of Cannubi and San Lorenzo justifiably famous. The Barolo fermentation takes place in glazed concrete tanks. Maria Teresa feels that the natural gradual temperature control of the thick concrete tanks provides the most natural fermentation environment. Only naturally occurring yeasts are used and the wine ferments together with the skins for around two weeks. After fermentation, the Barolo is racked into large Slovenian oak casks ranging from 25 to 50 hectolitres. Most of the newer casks are 25 hectolitres. The wine matures in casks for three years and then receives a year of aging in bottle before release.

The Barolo of Bartolo Mascarello is stunning its balance between elegance and power. These are wines that are defined by complexity not brute strength and they flow seamlessly over the palate and with each second reveal new layers of nuance. The tannins, while substantial, have a refinement that adds its own complexity and are surprisingly delicate in spite of their intensity. A tasting of recent vintages reveals an amazing consistency of style with the differences caused by the qualities of the vintage alone standing out. A side-by-side tasting of Mascarello Barolo 2001, 2000 and 1999 revealed a consistent range of flavors featuring a refined floral nose full of violets and roses layered with touches of caramelized oranges and bittersweet tar. On the palate the wines almost float with a high-strung elegance that features notes of fresh wild strawberry, bitter black licorice, fresh porcini and black truffles and what seems like hundreds of other flavors that play hide-and-seek with your senses. As you would expect from such young Baroli the tannins are still intense, but are so refined they don't seem harsh. The 2000 is clearly the most forward of these wines and is recommended for drinking prior to its tenth birthday, which is perfect as you will have to be much more patient with the 1999 and 2001, which demand the respect of at least ten years of aging, but waiting longer is recommended. The 2000 shows a riper note of cassis in the fruit and is decidedly softer than the 1999. The 1999 and 2001 are classic Baroli that show beautifully every aspect of what makes Barolo a great wine. The 1999 is just starting to reveal its greatness and shows perfect balance and incredible complexity. It is a "must have" wine for any collector. The 2001 is still extremely young and unresolved, but the great potential of this vintage clearly shows in the wine, which has the potential to surpass even the great 1999 in the future. They did not produce a Barolo in 2002 due to the devastating weather conditions in La Morra and the Barolo commune. All of these wines are highly recommend and, the fact is, I have never tasted a wine from them that I would not highly recommend.

The wines of Bartolo Mascarello are traditional in the strictest sense and are not likely to please lovers of jammy wines with heavy barrique flavors, but to me these are some the best examples of Barolo as the unique, distinct wine that it is and reflect the finest characteristics that the vineyards of the Barolo zone can produce. These are not wines that reach out and grab you, but that invite you in to savor and contemplate. I recommend accepting the invitation. Imported by Robert Chadderdon.

[jbonne]

many thanks for that, Craig. quite enjoyed it.

A side-by-side tasting of Mascarello Barolo  2001, 2000 and 1999 revealed a consistent range of flavors featuring a refined floral nose full of violets and roses layered with touches of caramelized oranges and bittersweet tar.

←

can't tell you how jealous i am of the very notion of being able to do a vertical.

the other day, i was reading one of those Barolo descriptions saying they're so tannic and big as to be undrinkable ... especially those made in the traditional style. that seems to sum up some of these wines, but i never felt Mascarello's was unapproachable, even if it needs years and years and years to mature. but maybe it's just me and my weird relationship to tannins.

[dfunghi]

FYI there is an auction comming up in NYC through Zackys Auctions with a truly amazing amount of older wines from Piedmonte. Including many from Bartolo. I have no personal interest / connection in the sale of these wines it is just FYI. I wish I had the money to buy some of them. The catalouge is online and worth a look if only to see what an amazing cellar is being sold off.

David

[Craig Camp]

many thanks for that, Craig. quite enjoyed it.

A side-by-side tasting of Mascarello Barolo  2001, 2000 and 1999 revealed a consistent range of flavors featuring a refined floral nose full of violets and roses layered with touches of caramelized oranges and bittersweet tar.

←

can't tell you how jealous i am of the very notion of being able to do a vertical.

the other day, i was reading one of those Barolo descriptions saying they're so tannic and big as to be undrinkable ... especially those made in the traditional style. that seems to sum up some of these wines, but i never felt Mascarello's was unapproachable, even if it needs years and years and years to mature. but maybe it's just me and my weird relationship to tannins.

←

I would have to say that I find the traditional styles easier to taste in their youth as they are pure and resolved in their character while barrique aged wines are often very unbalanced and unresolved at the same point.