Marchesi di Grèsy, Barbaresco

[Craig Camp]

Marchesi di Grèsy, Barbaresco

While these beautiful Barbaresco vineyards had been in the family since the 1800's when Cisa Asinaris of Grèsy purchased the property, it was only in 1973 that Alberto di Grèsy begin making wines from them under his own label, Marchesi di Grèsy. Perhaps he was inspired by the results of the Cantina del Produttori who first bottled wine under the Martinegna name in the late sixty's. Surrounded by some of the finest vineyards in the Barbaresco commune, Rabajà and Asili, the Martinegna vineyards form a natural amphitheater that catches the full force of the sun and protects the vines from wind. While Martinegna is a very good vineyard, a small perfectly exposed section called Camp Gros is capable of greatness. Marchesi di Grèsy produces three excellent Barbaresci and a full-range of well-made Piemontese wines. However, the star of the show is clearly the magnificent Barbaresco Camp Gros which competes with the finest wines of the region.

Tasting notes:

1998 Barbaresco Camp Gros Martinenga ($55)

Marchesi di Grèsy has given this excellent wine extra aging before release and this wine is a great reminder that the 1998 is an outstanding vintage in its own right. Bright light ruby with garnet highlights, quite translucent. The expansive nose is extremely complex with layers of bitter tobacco and tar blending with touches of cassis and a warm rich earthiness. On the palate the wine dances with a bright clean elegance and layers of spices and fine cigars carried on the round ripe fruit. The finish is firmly tannin, but starting to open show the refined character of this wine. Wait until it reaches its tens birthday and you will be well rewarded. (Rating A+, excellent)

1998 Barbaresco Gaiun Martinenga ($55)

This is Marchesi di Grèsy's modern styled offering, while the other two Barbaresci are made in a more traditional style. Brilliant ruby with scarlet highlights. Just translucent. Oak is very apparent in the nose with fresh pencil shaving aromas blending with light tar and sweet cherry fruit. Pungent dark cherry fruit flavors blend with smoky, earthy touches on the palate that is firmed up by a clean mineral note. The finish is roundly tannic with pronounced oaky flavors blending with sweet black licorice accents. (Rating A-, excellent)

2000 Barbaresco Martinenga ($45)

Produced from very old nebbiolo clones. Bright scarlet with garnet hints. Quite translucent. Dense smoky, mineral and ripe plum aromas mix with an earthy tar highlight. Firm and complex on the palate, very stylish with a rich mixture of power and refinement. The flavors are ripe, but balanced with sweet fruit carried by bitter licorice and tobacco notes. The finish shows tannins that are still intense, but surprising refined and round. A very nice, balanced 2000. (Rating A, excellent)

2000 Virtus (cabernet sauvignon 40%, barbera 60%) ($30)

Brilliant ruby. The nose is packed with fresh cherry and sweet oak with a touch of mint. The forward, ripe fruit flavors show sweet oak flavors with minty cabernet fruit overlaid by zesty barbera freshness. The finish is clean with full oaky highlights and round easy tannins. (Rating B+, very good)

2002 Dolcetto d'Alba, Monte Aribaldo ($16)

Marchesi di Grèsy produced 50% less than normal in this difficult vintage and their careful selection produced a lovely wine. Brilliant purple with ruby hints. The nose is explosively fruity filled with fresh blueberries and plum. Fresh and crisp on the palate, the lively fresh fruit flavors are juicy and delicious. Drink up while it is fresh and fruity. (Rating B+, very good)

2001 Sauvignon, Langhe Bianco DOC ($16)

Bright light gold. Clean, flinty aromas mix with ripe melons with a smoky hints. Crisp and fresh on the palate with a metallic firmness and round ripe pear notes. The finish is zesty and clean. (Rating B+, very good)