Hiramatsu

[Steve Klc]

Stu--I asked about the language because there is an ongoing theme that runs across many threads here about service and treatment in restaurants--and I think a lot of non-French speakers would benefit from knowing whether they'd be at a disadvantage--or, as Cabrales indicates in this instance, no disadvantage at all, in being able to communicate to the staff.

I've been in restaurants in France where the menu was entirely in French, the service staff, though sincere, had little command of English, only to be saved by other diners seated nearby who took pity on us--and helped with translations--even describing what they liked best and how "their" restaurant plated things.

[StuDudley]

Steve Klc

Stu--I asked about the language because there is an ongoing theme that runs across many threads here about service and treatment in restaurants--and I think a lot of non-French speakers would benefit from knowing whether they'd be at a disadvantage--or, as Cabrales indicates in this instance, no disadvantage at all, in being able to communicate to the staff.

The service at Astrance was probably the best I've ever encountered.  No hovering waiters, like at many ** restaurants, but 3 people young people roving around & obtaining eye contact with each other when it's time to serve/clear a plate.  Two people served & cleared each plate.  The maitre d did not talk to us, but the other server did & tried to explain things in English if my wife didn't understand the French.

At one Michelin no star restaurant last year, they seated all the Americans together & gave them an English menu.  We  asked for the French instead since I have a much better understanding of French fish names than English names (we really don't have warm salt water fish here).  The French speaking people went upstairs to a different section of the restaurant. One of the items I orderes was Cepes.  We almost always stay at Gites in the countryside or an Apt in Paris & we buy our food at the markets & I cook it myself - and it was Cepe season..  The cepes served to me were dried & re-hydrated, which is something that is horrible for cepes & they loose their crunchy testure.  I wonder if the French patrons got fresh cepes?

Cabrales

Stu -- That was an outstanding dish, with the Camembert effect quite prominent on the nose, but very suppressed (almost non-existent) in the mouth (where the oyster tastes and textures dazzled). What was your assessment of the dish?

Same as yours.  The sauce did not overpower the oysters but just added another dimension.  It's probably the dish I remember the most (my wife won't eat oysters so I had her helping).  The sauce was quite "frothy" & clean.  One other item on the menu was L'agneau grille, topinambour et fleur d'oranger.  The waiter said the fleur d'oranger was some sort of mountain juice (whatever that means).  It was red but didn't taste like blood orange juice.  Perhaps it's blood orange juice with a little tomato juice in it.  That's the magic of sauces in excellent French restaurants - they never overpower & it's often very hard to tell what it is (besides good!)

[cabrales]

One other item on the menu was L'agneau grille, topinambour et fleur d'oranger.  The waiter said the fleur d'oranger was some sort of mountain juice (whatever that means).  It was red but didn't taste like blood orange juice.  Perhaps it's blood orange juice with a little tomato juice in it.  

Stu -- Fleur d'oranger is orange flower blossom. (At certain developed places where one can get infusion drinks in Paris, it's better than verbena.) I had this dish -- it was stunning in taste, with brilliant color effects to appeal to the visual senses as well.  

BTW, to quote another member's post so it shows up in a box in your post, go to that member's post and click on the "Quote" botton on the upper right hand side of the post. You can then edit out parts of the quoted post you do not need. Your own post is typed separately. Of course, this procedure is only if you want to quote in the conventional way. I kind of like the way you quote, and am unable to navigate certain technical aspects of this site (e.g., link to another thread).  

[ajay]

I'm very pleased to report that I have managed to secure a lunch reservation at l'astrance for my upcomming trip to France!!

If it were up to me, I would force everyone at the table to order the surprise menu (menu l'astrance) but given the fact that one of my party is a vegetarian, I have to face the fact that the restaurant may not be able to accomodate my desire to have this menu and my mother's dietary requirments (no fish chicken poultry etc, but she won't make a big deal about stocks).  Therefore, I would grateful for suggestions on how to best maximize the experience while pursuing an a la carte strategy.

I am glad to hear that only speaking english will not be a problem at l'astrance.  However, we also plan to dine at several three stars and I wonder if anyone can comment on the relationship if any between lack of french and diminished treatment at Troisgros, Arpege and Gagnaire.

Also, because of the vegetarian, ordering strategies, especially at Troisgros and Gagnaire would be much appreciated.

Finally, (and yes i realize this post is now way off topic) we have an open day of dining in Lyon and Paris (dinning in Paris would, however, either preceed or follow a meal at a three star or l'astrance so something on the lighter side is sought).  Some suggestions about good, traditional food would be welcome.  Also, if anyone has info or an opinion on Goerges Blanc's bistro establishment in Lyon, it would be welcome.

[StuDudley]

If it were up to me, I would force everyone at the table to order the surprise menu (menu l'astrance) but given the fact that one of my party is a vegetarian, I have to face the fact that the restaurant may not be able to accomodate my desire to have this menu and my mother's dietary requirments (no fish chicken poultry etc, but she won't make a big deal about stocks).  Therefore, I would grateful for suggestions on how to best maximize the experience while pursuing an a la carte strategy.

I "pinched" a menu from Astrance last Sunday, and I think your mother better take some snacks with her.

Here is the A la Carte:

Crab wrapped in avacado (scrape out the crab)

Eggs

Scallops

sea urchin

beets - but with haddock included (she can scrape this out)

St Pierre (fish)

mackerel

salmon

duck

lamb

veal

If there are more than 2 of you, I would order the surprise menu & let your mom just eat the veggie items & pass you the rest.  I bet if you let the restaurant know, they might be able to make some adjustments (both hiver & surprise menus must be ordered for the entire table)

[StuDudley]

One other item on the menu was L'agneau grille, topinambour et fleur d'oranger.  The waiter said the fleur d'oranger was some sort of mountain juice (whatever that means).  It was red but didn't taste like blood orange juice.  Perhaps it's blood orange juice with a little tomato juice in it.  

Stu -- Fleur d'oranger is orange flower blossom. (At certain developed places where one can get infusion drinks in Paris, it's better than verbena.) I had this dish -- it was stunning in taste, with brilliant color effects to appeal to the visual senses as well.  

BTW, to quote another member's post so it shows up in a box in your post, go to that member's post and click on the "Quote" botton on the upper right hand side of the post. You can then edit out parts of the quoted post you do not need. Your own post is typed separately. Of course, this procedure is only if you want to quote in the conventional way. I kind of like the way you quote, and am unable to navigate certain technical aspects of this site (e.g., link to another thread).  

Hey - I tried the quote here & I hope it works

My first thought was that it was an orange blossom, but how did he achieve that deep red color ?  I've never seen a red blossom on an orange.  (red dye #2 ?)

[cabrales]

You identified the right ingredient in a previous post. The color lifted my spirits even higher when I saw this dish presented.  

[cabrales]

Also, if anyone has info or an opinion on Goerges Blanc's bistro establishment in Lyon, it would be welcome.

ajay -- L'Astrance will be one of the two best meals of your trip. On the Georges Blanc bistro, I have been to Le Splendide. It's inexpensive, but only offers one Bresse chicken entree -- it's cooked with cream, and similar to what is offered at the pink-colored house (it's another Blanc bistro-like place) on the right-hand-side of Vonnas' square when one is standing outside the main Georges Blanc house. You won't get the G7 Bresse chicken preparation (with foie gras and roasted garlic) or the 2-person "gross sel" (salt-related; ?) preparation you could find at the gastronomic restaurant.  Le Splendide also does not have the Crepes Vonnasienne (sic) (blini-like items that can be ordered with the chicken in Vonnas). I have never been a big fan of Georges Blanc, even at his gastronomic restaurant. See Steve P's write-up on his year in food (I think?)

However, Le Splendide is at least better than the Bocuse bistros, and does offer a good value-to-price ratio. I am myself hoping to have Bresse chicken at La Mere Brazier, despite its loss of its single star. To have the chicken in half-mourning dish (limited truffle slices between skin and meat) at its place of creation would be something else. I have also not yet sampled the food at bouchons.  

[ajay]

Stu,

Thanks for the list of l'astrance menu items.  If ordering a la carte becomes necesarry, which items would you suggest as providing the best examples of the kitchen's skill and which are the most interesting/unusual?

[StuDudley]

Stu,

Thanks for the list of l'astrance menu items.  If ordering a la carte becomes necesarry, which items would you suggest as providing the best examples of the kitchen's skill and which are the most interesting/unusual?

I don't know, since I didn't order off the A la Carte.  The crab was interesting, but not my favorite dish of the 12.  We have excellent crab and avacado here in Calif.  The St Jacques were lightly dusted with cinnamon & quite good & served with a pommes acidulee.  The beet was unique - it was very lightly pickled & tasted neither like a pickled beet nor a raw beat (which I hate).  It was on top of a light pastry which covered a julienne of white beets, haddock, & onions.  The St Pierre (the part of St Pierre was played by Sandre when we were there), was very nice but not as unique as some of the other dishes. The lamb was 1 rib (3 on the a la carte) accompained by a perfectly seared loin which was split (1/2 loin per dish), with the orange flower sauce which was "cornered" on the plate with by perfectly steamed baby leek (split).

I really didn't "pinch" a menu - I asked for one & they gave me the ladies menu without prices, so I can't tell you the price of each.  The oysters are not on the a la carte nor are they on the hiver menu - they may have been cleaning out the refrigerator, since we were there on a Sunday & they are closed on Monday.

[StuDudley]

Stu,

Thanks for the list of l'astrance menu items.  If ordering a la carte becomes necesarry, which items would you suggest as providing the best examples of the kitchen's skill and which are the most interesting/unusual?

I have transcribed their menu into a Word document.  E-mail me at StuDudley@aol.com if you want a copy.

[Bux]

Stu, glad to see you've got the hang of quoting. This is some pretty interesting software, but it takes a while to get the hang of it. I am always afraid to make too much of a point of the technical features lest I scare away potential contributors. It's nice to have post with "proper" formatting, but I'm a lot more interested in content. We seem to have a farily intelligent group here who can manage to figure out what works best for them in posting and who can manage to understand whatever method others use to organize their posts. So far that works, but who knows, someday I may get up on the wrong side of the bed and try to lay out some rules that everyone will ignore.

I would grateful for suggestions on how to best maximize the experience while pursuing an a la carte strategy.

Write ahead of time and tell them of the situation. Let them know you, and the other(s) would like the surprise tasting menu, but that your mother is a vegetarian (for whatever reasons you care to disclose, including just how strictly she observes her diet) and that she will be with you. Ask if they can accommodate her, or allow you to have the menu anyway. I will bet a significant sum that they will. There's no guarantee and the downside may be that you will obliged to take the surprise menu no matter what your mood is, after they've gone out of their way. You might also phone ahead the day before if you don't get a reply before. By all means, make it clear that your interest in eating there is not dependent on their ability to accommodate you.

Didn't you ask about how to get better service recently.

One of the tricks is precisely in asking for special service. You just need to ask politley enough to let them know you don't expect or demand special service, but that you care enough to go out of your way to try and get the best you can out of their restaurant. My guess is that they'll at least meet you halfway.

i realize this post is now way off topic

Shame on you. Are you eating at Leon de Lyon in Lyon? I think that's been recognized at the finest in town. Have you considered the new Les Loges that GaultMillau raves about in the 2002 edition? I have a sentimental attachment to Pierre Orsi which is almost overly charming. Regretably, certain commitments and a lack of time have kept me from getting better acquainted with the bistros, brasseries and bouchons of merit on our last trips, but I've never eaten poorly in any restaurant in Lyon.

they gave me the ladies menu without prices

Have I mentioned lately how much I am opposed to that?

[cabrales]

Patricia Wells has provided an inevitably positive report on Hiramatsu (inevitable -- in view of her reviewing style and not, in my mind, necessarily in view of the restaurant, which was quite good but not compelling):

http://www.patriciawells.com/reviews/iht/2002/1603.htm

An excerpt follows:

The restaurant "has had its share of fans and foes. . . . And then there are those (like me) who say: *Who cares where he came from*, it's what's on the plate that matters. And in my estimation, he has brought a welcome breath of fresh air . . . . [The chef] has had a long-time dream of having a tiny restaurant in Paris to use as a sort of *laboratory* for testing and selecting ingredients to export to Japan, as well as training kitchen and dining room staff. . . . [He] plans to change the entire menu and all the china four times a year."

[cabrales]

In the pre-crash Hiramatsu thread, there were discussions about how an 18-diner restaurant can be financially viable and what the chef's motivations might have been in opening up in Paris. Here's further background, suggesting how Hiramatsu might benefit economically from a reputation/brand bolstered by Paris achievements (excerpt from Bloomberg News, July 18, 2001):

"Hiramatsu Inc., an upmarket Tokyo chain of French and Italian restaurants, plans to sell shares early next year, fending off an economic slowdown by opening mid-range restaurants and a string of delicatessens. . . . 'We can't grow if we stick to the very top of the market,' Hiramatsu Vice President Naobumi Karita said. . . . Hiramatsu is trying to sell shares at a difficult time, with Tokyo's Nikkei index trading . . . low . . . ."

I have not followed up on whether a share issuance remains planned.

[Bux]

You can't overestimate the value of a reputation/brand bolstered by Paris achievements, especially in Japan where people seem to place great faith in brand names and in loyalty to one brand.

Could two unrelated Parisian restauranteurs, one a chef, lend their names to a restaurant in New York or London and expect to draw a crowd? What would be the reaction to an announcement that restaurant Taillevent Robuchon would be opening in New York?

[cabrales]

The April 2002 edition of Saveurs (French) lists Hiramatsu as the Table of the Month. Pudlowski notes, among other things: (1) “an exceptional wine list and a cuisine that is its equal”, (2) “a restaurant with a very talented team that is 100% Japanese [with respect to the kitchen, presumably], dedicated to French haute gastronomy”, and (3) “a cuisine that could not be more French, chiseled and cut like a rare diamond”.

From Pudlowski’s description of the dishes, it might be the case that the menu has been revised. Dishes described include: (1) terrine of leeks, foie gras, truffles and a gelee of white wine (this appears to be conceptually similar to a dish from the prior menu called “Foie gras poêlé aux huîtres, poireaux au champagne et sauce aux truffes” or Pan-fried foie gras with oysters and leeks with champagne and truffle sauce), (2) line-caught bass “meuniere” style with artichokes (one dish on the prior menu was “Bar de ligne braisé sur coulis de citron confit” or Braised line-caught bass on a coulis of lemon confit), (3) braised turbot with bay leaves (one dish on the prior menu was “Turbot poêlé à l'orange, cœur de romaine au thym, gaspacho vert moutardé” or Pan-fried turbot with orange, heart of romaine lettuce with thyme, gaspacho with mustard), and (4) fruit salad with kirsch and a gelee of verbena.

Pudlowski notes that Hiramatsu trained at Delphin at Nantes and at Petit Montmorency at Paris. The other chef at Hiramatsu is Hajime Nakagawa, who worked at some point with Claude Peyrot at Vivarois.

I have an 8:30 reservation, table for two, at Hiramatsu on Saturday, April 6 that I will shortly cancel (for reasons not based on a lack of motivation to revisit the restaurant). If any member is interested in taking over this difficult-to-get reservation, please Messenger me and I will have the reservation name modified accordingly.  ;)

[cabrales]

My second meal at Hiramatsu was very disappointing food-wise. The location of the restaurant is still lyrical, and made more so by an unabashedly medium pink expanse of sky the evening I visited, but no amount of locational advantage can offset the defects in the dishes sampled.  There is a Voiturier (person dedicated to parking cars) now, for a restaurant with 18 seats, and it was he instead of the dining room team members that gracefully led me into the restaurant. The dining room staff members remembered me from before, and were welcoming as well.

The problems began early, as the Aiguillettes de pigeonneau au foie gras et consommé de julienne de légumes (Pigeonneau slices with foie gras and a vegetable consomme) was indicated to be unavailable only after I sought to order it. This is a dish I have been contemplating ordering for some time. See pre-crash Hiramatsu thread.

The amuses of Spanish ham (now overly drizzled with olive oil) and the royale of black truffles were as before. The tenderness of the egg custard went well with the intense meat-based consumme, which had complex connotations that brought to mind certain "dark" mushrooms.

I ordered the Turbot poêlé à l'orange, cœur de romaine au thym, gaspacho vert moutardé (Pan-fried turbot with orange, heart of romaine lettuce with thyme, green gaspacho with mustard) as an appetizer. (It is intended as an entree, and the size was left intact.) There were two pieces of turbot; one was markedly underdone and almost tasted (unintentionally) raw in the inner sections. Both pieces lacked the flavor of the fish, and the blandness was unaided by the moderated (in a negative way, but nicely textured) green gaspacho sauce (with no noticeable mustard taste). The orange taste advertised on the menu was nowhere to be found. The long romaine sections lining the curved outer area of the plate were the only arguably nice part of the dish.

I also sampled significant portions of the Homard Breton rôti aux pousses d'épinards et son beurre aux fines herbes (Roasted Brittany lobster with spinach shoots and herb butter), ordered as an appetizer by my dining companion (also intended as an entree, and ordered without a reduction in size). The lobster was appropriately prepared, and tasted crisp and fairly good. The head portion was available for sampling as well. However, the butter-based sauce was very traditional and there was nothing particularly interesting about this dish.

Then, the worst pigeonneau dish I have tasted in some time. The plump body of the Pigeonneau rôti au miel, sauce vin rouge liée avec son foie (Pigeonneau roasted with honey, red wine sauce with its liver) was literally drastically undercooked. (It takes quite a lot for me to say this, in the context of pigeon.) Furthermore, there was a smell and taste to the meat of the pigeonneau that was unattractive (I am not saying it was spoiled, to be clear) and that sickened me ever so slightly. The concentrated red wine sauce was too aggressive for the dish. No more than a bite was taken. The lentils in a small cup accompanying this dish were also inferior. My dining companion's Noix de veau au sésame, sauce vin jaune au curry (Veal with sesame, yellow wine sauce with curry) was disappointing, although not as misguided as the pigeonneau.

The cheese was nice, and included Mimolette, Roquefort and Epoisse. However, my dessert of Cassonade brûlée de café corsé, sabayon à la cannelle (brown sugar "burned" with full-flavored coffee, cinammon sabayon; note this was not a creme brule) was very poor. The item arrived in a cup, with frothy capuccino effects too heavily laced with cinammon. Beneath was a "gooey" dark brown mixture that reminded me of mud with small grounded gravel in it, both in taste and in texture. Misguided intensity in a dish that I found unacceptable and that had apparently been praised by certain French restaurant critics.

I also sampled a bit of the Millefeuille aux oranges confites accompagné de son sorbet au chocolat amer (Millefeuilles of confit oranges accompanied with a sorbet of dark chocolate). This was better than my Cassonade, with interesting small oranges and only two thin "crisps" that made up the millefueille and that sandwiched the oranges and cream.

I do not intend to return to Hiramatsu, unless the feedback from other members who visit is overwhelmingly positive. It is possible the restaurant had a particularly bad night, as Chef Hiramatsu was apparently not in attendance (expected to be 50% of the time). However, the many problems I perceived in the cuisine would appear to suggest that Hiramatsu remains a work in progress, to say it kindly.  

Members interested in sampling the restaurant should not necessarily be deterred by this post, and may wish to consider it in view of, among other things, the generally admiring professional reviews the restaurant has garnered.  ;)

[magnolia]

Is H. open for lunch, and if so, how much do you think lunch would set me back?

[cabrales]

Is H. open for lunch, and if so, how much do you think lunch would set me back?

magnolia -- Hiramatsu is open for lunch, at least some days. You might want to ask about whether a Menu d'Affaires (Business menu; or similar name) is available. If I remember correctly (check the pre-crash Hiramatsu thread), the cost was 45-50 euros. I'm uncertain whether, with its increasing popularity, the restaurant is still offering the "business lunch" menu. Also ask about what items are on it before reliance.

The a la carte is likely the same for lunch and dinner, although I've only gone for dinner.

http://www.hiramatsu.co.jp/lang_french/carte.html

Dinner reservations are certainly hard to come by nowadays. I wonder if lunch reservations may also be becoming scarce. The maitre d' indicated that Hiramatsu might be changing the menu in the next 2-4 weeks. ;)

[magnolia]

OK, I got another assignment so that I decided to take the Hiramatsu plunge next week.

I have lunch reservations for Tuesday. I did the sneaky thing and reserved for two not knowing whether I'll be able to cajole someone into spending that kind of time or money for lunch...or whether I'll be on my own. (of course I will let them know ahead if I am just one, but I would hope that would not change the seating plan or anything else...to whit:

Normally I really don't mind eating on my own but I would appreciate any insight you might have as to what I'm likely to encounter (their email to me confirming a res. for 2 was so sweet I hope I am not met with frosty attitude if I am one!) , I probably will order two-three wines by the glass rather than a bottle - to see what they come up with.

Anyway, whatever I get paid to write this story might just about cover lunch :-)

[cabrales]

magnolia -- Beware of wine by the glass -- their prices are not listed on the wine list and I don't know how they would be priced at Hiramatsu. Perhaps you can order the "business lunch", if it remains available.  

I walked by Grand Vefour the other day, and their special lunch menu was 71 euros or thereabouts, and looked relatively promising.

[magnolia]

Thanks for the heads up!

Hiramatsu confirms they no longer do a menu d'affaires, but that they will have a 'menu degustation' for 'environs 92 euros'.

Anyway, as luck (?) would have it, someone has offered to take me to dinner at the restaurant of my choice on Saturday night so I tried to upgrade my Hiramatsu lunch to a dinner but of course they are full and have long liste d'attente.

So...is the offer of Maison Blanche still on, or have you cancelled?

[cabrales]

magnolia -- Sorry, the reservation has since been cancelled. I try to be good about not leaving restaurants with unoccupied tables, sometimes to my own detriment.  

The Hiramatsu menu degustation currently has the same dishes I described in the pre-crash Hiramatsu thread (amuses, John Dory ravioli, nice foie gras/leek/consomme dish, bass, venison). I heard it so described last weekend. They might be changing the menu in 2-3 weeks.

[magnolia]

No worries, I respect that you cancelled it- I do the same. As for Hiramatsu, I've been advised they are indeed about to change the menu - and may even have done so by Tuesday. I will let you know!

[cabrales]

As for Hiramatsu, I've been advised they are indeed about to change the menu - and may even have done so by Tuesday. I will let you know!

magnolia -- When you have a chance, please consider discussing whether you made it to Hiramatsu. The new "Spring" menu was released onto the restaurant's website. Below are translations:

APPETIZERS

-- Nage de homard breton à la mousseline de caviars

et purée de fenouille (pour deux) par personne (Nage of Brittany lobster with a caviar mousseline and fennel puree, for two) Euros 46.00

-- Grosses langoustines poêlées à l'orange, jeunes brocolis et leurs purée d'asperges blanches (Large langoustines pan-fried with orange, young brocoli and a puree of white asparagus) 42.00

-- Pavé de foie gras“Roti d'or”aux aubergines cuites à la citronnelle, sauce truffé au balsamique (Foie gras pave, "golden roast", with aubergines cooked with a lemongrass variation, truffled sauce with balsamic vinegar)38.00

-- Bar à la vapeur parfumé de la mer, ses petits légumes de provence  (Steamed bass with aromas of the seas, little vegetables from Provence) 38.00

-- Foie gras au choux printanier, sauce aux truffes (Foie gras with spring cabbage, truffle sauce) 40.00

MAIN COURSES

-- Bar à la ligne, cuit minute, sauce “Château Chalon” parfumée à la fleur de thym (Line-caught bass, cooked slightly, "Chateau Chalon" sauce and perfurmed with thyme blossom) 42.00

-- Asperges vertes, goujonettes de sole et de langoustines en côte à côte, coulis de moules safranées (Green asparagus, sole and langoustines side by side (?), a coulis of mussels with saffron) 42.00

-- Eventail de rouget en filet poêlés accompagné de ses tomates et leur crème d'olive (A fan [no typo] of pan-fried red mullet fillets, accompanied by tomatoes and olive cream) 34.00

-- Dorade fumé sur son coulis de pomme de terre au raifort,

crème de caviars au champagne (Smoked sea bream on a coulis of potatoes with horseradish, a caviar cream with champagne) 44.00

-- Civet de homard breton accompagné de sa jardinière de légumes et de son coulis de corail à l'huile d'olives (Stew of Brittany lobster accompanied by vegetables and a coulis of corale with olive oil) 68.00

-- Côte de veau de lait braisé, sauce d'olives façon périgourdine, et haricots verts fins à la crème de mayonnaise truffé (Braised side of milk-fed veal, olive sauce "Perigourdine" style, green bean or French bean with a cream of truffled mayonnaise) 40.00

-- Carré d'agneau parfumé au thym avec son velouté de cresson, fricassée de foie gras de chèvre en ravioli (Rack of lamb flavored with thyme with a watercress veloute, a fraicasse of foie gras and chevre ravioli) 40.00

-- Rouleaux de lapin fermier aux courgettes, émulsion de truffe (Roll of farm rabit with zucchini and a truffle emulsion)40.00

-- Poitrine de canette de Challans fumée et sa printanière de légumes, sauce violette (Smoked breast of Challans duck and vegetables, violet sauce) 42.00

-- Ailes de pigeonneau rosées au champagne, lardons fumés et petits pois parfumés au romarins, crème d'ail au cerfeuil (Pigeonneau wing with champagne, smoked bacon and rosemary-flavored peas, garlic cream with chevril) 42.00

DESSERT

-- Méli-mélo de fruits rouges de saison à la gelée de lavande au“Bonnezeaux” sur un lit de rhubarbe citroné (Meli-melo of red fruits of the season with a lavender gelee and a "Bonnezaux" on a bed of rhubarb with lemon) 16.00

Biscuit au chocolat chaud et sa glace vanille à la menthe fraîche (Hot chocolate biscuit with vanilla ice cream and fresh mint) 20.00

-- Petite soupe de cerise au Marc de champagne sucré  (Small cherry soup with sugared Marc de champagne) 15.00

-- Millefeuille de marjolaine aux fraises des bois et crème glacée à la verveine (Millefeuille with marjoram, wild strawberries and verbena ice cream) 18.00

-- Savarin d'agrumes accompagné de sa crème chantilly

au rhum et de son sorbet au chocolat amer (Savarin of citrus fruit accompanied by chantilly cream with rum and bitter chocolate sorbet) 16.00

Several observations, based on a comparison of the Spring menu with the Winter one:

-- Hiramatsu utilizes champagne in saucing from time to time.

-- The utilization of more expensive ingredients (e.g., caviar, truffles) continues, as discussed in the original Hiramatsu thread (not linked). I wonder what truffles Hiramatsu might be utilizing at this time of the year, if they are fresh?

-- Some of the fruit-based desserts sound good.