TN: '95 & '97 Banfi SummuS

[geo t.]

Banfi describes their proprietary blend SummuS as “an extraordinary blend of Sangiovese (used regionally to make the famed Brunello di Montalcino) which contributes body; Cabernet Sauvignon, fruit and structure; and Syrah, elegance, character and a fruity bouquet. Each wine is individually vinified and aged one year in French oak barrique to develop its unique style, then masterfully interwoven with the others to achieve a rare dimension of taste. Additional 14 -16 months of bottle-aging brings forth a fragrant bouquet of fruit, oak and spice.”

We’ve found this to be a marvelous wine in the past, but recently, only one out of two hit the mark.

1997 Banfi SummuS, $54, 13% alc.: This deep, dark garnet is like no Summus we’ve had before, and we’ve had more than a few. It shows a big toasty sweet oak bouquet right off the bat, with plenty of dark plum and black cherry in support, and a little sea air that emerges as it opens. The flavors echo, with moderate tannins and a big flat spot in the mid – palate. This comes off much more like a Californian red than an Italian, and while I suppose it’s pleasant enough on its own terms, it’s a big disappointment, and way overpriced at $54.

1995 Banfi SummuS, $38, 13% alc.: Now this is more like it! Dark garnet in color, with perfumed black currant and dark plum aromatics shaded with a little smoke, this is the kind of Summus that we know and love so well. Flavors echo with a dry, not quite austere character, and the wine is smooth, with tannins that are mostly, but not entirely resolved. As it opens, and it opens dramatically, some leather and a bit more smoke make themselves known, and this seems to straddle the line between the old world and the new, being rich and refined, yet very dry, almost austere at the same time. Still on the way up, and a perfect match with a mixed grill of lamb chops, eggplant and zucchini, along with a wild rice salad, this is like drinking fine Bordeaux, rather than Toscana.

Banfi Wines Imported by Banfi Vintners, Old Brookville, NY

Reporting from Day-twah,

geo t.

[Craig Camp]

It is instructive to note that the reference to one vintage is California and the other to Bordeaux.

...I wish they tasted a bit more "Italian".

[Coop]

Couldn't agree more! had the same feeling about a 2000 Cum Laude. It just seemed like Mendocino Cabernet, especially compared to the Moris Farms 98 Morellino Riserva it was served with. However I think Banfi offers so many wine's, they try to have one for everybody.