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An assortment


Florida Jim

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2002 Boudin, Fourchaume:

Continues the trend of this house that this bottling be open and showing well early with clear scents of white fruit, mineral, and stream water; flavors that follow the nose with depth and some complexity, viscous, intense, and very well balanced with good persistence. Feminine on the nose but much more structured and powerful across the palate. I wonder if this wine will ever close down. Imported by M. Skurnick.

2001 B. Giacosa, Nebbiolo d’Alba Valmaggiore:

Smells of roses and dust with red fruit and a light hint of freshly picked herbs; nearly weightless on the palate with an overall dry sensation framing the bright, red fruit tones, well balanced; medium length. An ethereal sort of wine that expresses its place of origin in whispered tones. Impeccable. Imported by Winebow.

2000 Copian, Pinot Noir Hein Vnyd.:

Mostly black fruit and spice on the nose and palate but the oak is sticking out and interferes with the sappy, crisp delivery. Has plenty of stuffing so I’ll let these bottles rest a couple years in hopes of a more integrated wine.

2002 Coudert, Fleurie Cuvee Tardive:

My friend Nathan calls the regular cuvee superior, maybe so; but while this is not as focused, it is a dense, rich wine with plenty of mouth-coating fruit, a solid structure and a plush texture that never devolves into being tannic or drying. A muscular wine and an impressive one. This is the bottle to serve blind to a detractor of Beaujolais; goes well with crow. Imported by Louis/Dressner.

1999 Gilles Robin, Crozes-Hermitage Cuvee Alberic Bouvet:

Superb, as always. Imported by Eric Solomon.

2002 Brun, L’Ancien Beaujolais:

Closing down; evidenced by sharp aromatics and a palate that feels as though it were mixed with Alka-Seltzer; opens after about an hour but is still only a shadow of its former self. Hold. Imported by Louis/Dressner.

1994 LaJota, Petite Sirah:

Some sour oak tones are quickly covered by strong scents of blackberry-plum compote with red fruit, smoked bacon and spice accents and a freshness on the nose that is akin to smelling fresh picked celery; medium bodied with an earthy-smoky flavored delivery that includes all the elements of the nose with some solid structure, bright and fresh across the palate, intense and concentrated, good complexity and balance with just the slightest hint of that sour oak first experienced on the nose; a medium length, strongly flavored finish that almost, but not quite, dries the mouth.

A petite sirah with complexity is, to me, unique. And this one has nearly shed its overwhelming wood signature. Nothing to get too excited about (for me) but damn tasty with burgers and chips.

Best, Jim

www.CowanCellars.com

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