WTN: 1990 Domaine du Pegau Châteauneuf du Pape

[geo t.]

From Red Wings and Red Rhônes '03-04 Playoff Diary:

1990 Domaine du Pegau Châteauneuf du Pape, $19.95, 13.5% alc: Alan Kerr contributed this to our mojo making, and it seemed to confirm the impressions of many who tasted it last September that it still has a while to go before it'll show its best. A slightly rusty ruby garnet in color, it's showing mature earthy stewed fruit, roasted beet, smoke, cola, cured salted meat, brine-y olive, nutmeg and a touch of white pepper. It really blossoms with half an hour of air, and it continues to open and evolve as long as there's some left. Still, it has the structure to hold and improve for another ten years; I just wish it was still available, especially for the price that Alan paid for it way back when.

Imported by J et R Selections, Mount Pleasant, MI

Reporting from Day-twah,

geo t.

[docsconz]

I haven't had it in a while, but it wsa already a wonderful wine several years ago.

[Scott]

I'm not convinced, I think too much forgiveness is bandied about for this wine.

I had a couple of bottles this year, both the same, very hard, lean tannic structures. Impeccably stored.

I don't think they will resolve, the fruit is not that ripe or full IMO, to combat the drying tannins over the long haul.

It's about as resolved as it's going to get I think, and that isn't all that impressive.

not bad of course, but disappointing overall.

[geo t.]

I'm not convinced, I think too much forgiveness is bandied about for this wine.

I had a couple of bottles this year, both the same, very hard, lean tannic structures. Impeccably stored.

I don't think they will resolve, the fruit is not that ripe or full IMO, to combat the drying tannins over the long haul.

It's about as resolved as it's going to get I think, and that isn't all that impressive.

not bad of course, but disappointing overall.

You describe one like we had last September, though it wasn't given time to open in a decanter as it deserved. The wine we tasted last week was nothing like the one you describe. It was very nice indeed.

No forgiveness, just the facts, man.

};^)>

[docsconz]

My recollection of that wine is that it was pretty tasty young. I do not recall overwhelming tannins, but it has been some time since I had it. Perhaps it has closed for awhile and is only now beginnining to reopen?

[geo t.]

My recollection of that wine is that it was pretty tasty young. I do not recall overwhelming tannins, but it has been some time since I had it.  Perhaps it has closed for awhile and is only now beginnining to reopen?

Agreed on an earlier taste; no doubt different bottles of this will do different as they diverge with time. Here're notes of mine from 5 years or so ago:

1990 Domaine Du Pegau Chateauneaf-du-Pape Reservee: CZ sprung this on us as a "mystery wine." Purple garnet with perfumed plum/red currant/spicy bramble/briar and notes of lavender/chocolate that emerge with air; no one came close to guessing what this was. I was thinking Zin, with the bramble/briar, but was obviously a long way off. Every bit as good as the 1991 Guigal Cote-Rotie in its own way, with none of the barnyard aspects often found in wines from this appellation, it’s easily the prettiest CdP I’ve ever tasted.

Edited April 22, 2004 by geo t. (log)

[Scott]

I'm not convinced, I think too much forgiveness is bandied about for this wine.

I had a couple of bottles this year, both the same, very hard, lean tannic structures.  Impeccably stored.

I don't think they will resolve, the fruit is not that ripe or full IMO, to combat the drying tannins over the long haul.

It's about as resolved as it's going to get I think, and that isn't all that impressive.

not bad of course, but disappointing overall.

You describe one like we had last September, though it wasn't given time to open in a decanter as it deserved. The wine we tasted last week was nothing like the one you describe. It was very nice indeed.

No forgiveness, just the facts, man.

};^)>

I could happily believe that there is bottle variation, but the 1989 reserve and the Laurence's of both years share similarities in all the bottles I have had. Hard, firm, and lacking generousity, I have always preferred these wines young.

I can't really believe that decanting is going to help as much as you suggest.

Fact is this wine (1990 CR) disappoints too often to deserve the accolades often bestowed upon it.

[Redwinger]

I recall having this wine about two years ago and you can put me firmly in the camp of those who think it was darn good. My recollection closely mirrors Georgie's bottle.

But, as I'm sure will happen, Scott will chime in once again that he disagrees.This only will lend further credence to the argument that my palate is shot.

Redwinger

[geo t.]

This only will lend further credence to the argument that my palate is shot.

Old news in some circles...

Edited April 22, 2004 by geo t. (log)

[Craig Camp]

The producer's own comments on their wine are interesting:

The red Châteauneuf-du-Pape can be drunk young, due to the extreme maturity attained by the grapes and the 18 months sojourn in old oak barrels. However it is preferable to wait longer ( provided the wine is kept in good conditions ), from three to eight years for a good vintage. In great years the wine can last 15 years and more.

It should be noted that much depends on your taste. For 6 to 8 years a great wine will keep its aromas of ripe fruit with an underlying spiciness. Later on ( or in the Cuvée Laurence ), the wine presents a more animal aspect with aromas of leather and tobacco.

This would seem to agree with geo t's own notes.

...and who is that Robert Parker guy that agrees with you?

[Craig Camp]

Gentlemen - this is dangerously close to becoming a a personal debate which is not our purpose here. Please take any disagreements to PM.

However, debating decanting is a worthwhile topic. So worthwhile it merits its own thread. A WTN is a personal opinion that is interesting on its own merits. Could I suggest that one of you (or anyone else) start a thread on the topic which is broader than this one wine.