Oh my!

[Florida Jim]

Some recent tastes and one hell of a lunch:

1999 Arigolas, Turriga IGT:

A blend of 85% cannonau; while bovale, carignano and malvasia nera make up the other 15%; aged 18-24 months in barrique/

Dense and concentrated (and obviously young) to the point that, in time, it just may soak up the considerable oak it has seen, but after it is open for just a little while, it loses its vigor and sort of flattens out. I had heard that this wine captures the wild nature of the area of its origin (Sardinia) but it seems more polished than untamed and just a bit soupy.

I seem to remember having an older version of this and being impressed but I can’t find my notes.

About $40, retail and imported by Winebow.

2001 Mason, Sauvignon Blanc:

While I approve of someone in Napa attempting to make sauvignon with some cut, I don’t approve of them doing it by harvesting unripe grapes. Oh, the acids are crisp but its all grass and pretty hollow.

About $13, retail.

2002 Anselmi, Capitel Foscarino:

About my third or fourth bottle of this and it’s finally time to just go buy a case and be done with it. Not even Pieropan makes a Soave I enjoy more and Gini isn’t in the same league. Beautifully textured, fleshy, fully flavored (some complexity), structured and perfectly balanced wine . . . for a song. No evidence of wood.

About $13, retail and imported by Winebow.

(BTW, I have recently tasted Anselmi’s 2002 San Vincenzo and 2001 Capitel Croce. The Croce (about $16) is aged in wood and carries a very evident stamp of oak, which I did not like – others may enjoy that as it did not overwhelm the wine. The San Vincenzo (no wood, about eight dollars) is fleshy and texturally lovely but does not have the structure or complexity of the Foscarino. Of course, it probably has some chardonnay in it and the Foscarino and Croce don’t seem to. In any event, I liked the San Vincenzo quite a bit and it certainly is reasonably priced.)

2002 Brun, Terres Dorees, Beaujolais L’Ancien VV:

About my tenth bottle of this since release and, even though I know I should wait a year or two (or more), I can’t. With a beer roasted whole chicken and mushroom risotto, sublime. I’m going to wind-up breaking my arm patting myself on the back for buying a lot of this. A very well structured and focused gamay with a termendous upside.

About $11, delivered; imported by Louis Dressner.

2002 Arancio, Grillo:

My fourth bottle of this and it’s just as idiosyncratic and interesting as the preceding bottles. Reminds me some of greco but has a prominent earthy/loamy element. As mentioned previous, not a wine for everyone.

Excellent with insalata caprese, assorted olives and focaccia bread drizzled with pesto.

About $8, retail and imported by Prestige Wine Imports.

And, one truly extraordinary lunch:

First course: An onion, black olive and zucchini frittata

Second course: Green lentils with beet greens and feta.

Served with crusty whole wheat bread.

1996 Nino Negri, Valtellina Superiore, Sassella “La Tense”:

100% nebbiolo/

Black-red with brown edges/

A savory, feminine and absolutely captivating nose of iced tea, tar, bug spray, leather, black and red fruit, with hints of tobacco leaf; all very slightly lifted; fascinating and very complex and too good to put down/

Medium body but excellent concentration and fabulous texture, flavors are all the elements of the nose but more emphasis on the fruit with additions of earth, mineral, and just a fleeting whisper of dried berries, fleshy, utterly seamless and smooth, intense and precisely balanced/

Long finish with smooth, complex fruit and good grip.

Oh my! The presence in the mouth is so wonderful . . . think perfectly mature Barolo.

The wine, by itself, was so clearly a “great” wine, I was struck silent. With the food, it was indescribably delicious; the very essence of why we carry on so about this fermented grape juice. “Please sir, if I would be allowed to buy several cases of this, I would be so grateful” – unfortunately, there were only two bottles left on the shelf when I got there.

About $15, and imported by Prestige Wine Importers.

Best, Jim

[Craig Camp]

The 96 Nino Negri, Valtellina Sassella “La Tense” is a pretty tasty bottle! These are wines are ignored in the USA - I suppose it is their delicate character and lack of barriques. If you like that I would also recommend from my other neighbor the Fara wines of Dessilani - Caramino and Lochera (more forward of the two). They should be well under $20.

Anselmi and Pieropan are on another level when it comes to Soave. I have to admit I still lean towards the firmer Pieropan wines over the richer Anselmi wines, but frankly am very happy to drink either. Up and coming is Suavia, but go for the firm and complex Monte Carbonare not the overly oaky Le Rive.

I wish I could find that incredible Terres Dorees Beaujolais in Italy, but I think I have to drive there and buy some - it's worth the drive.

[Florida Jim]

I wish I could find that incredible Terres Dorees Beaujolais in Italy, but I think I have to drive there and buy some - it's worth the drive.

Yes, it is.

Thanks for the tips.

Best, Jim

[Craig Camp]

It's a shame that the both Arigolas and Santadi go the ultra-modern route for so many of their wines, but they use the same hot shot consulting enologist so that is not a surprise. I would give the edge to the Santadi top of the line Terre Brune as maintaining more of that "wild" character, but the barriques are pretty pronounced there too. Some of the less expensive wines from both of them are more "Sardegna" in character than their top wines. However, neither producer is over the top like so many producers in Sicilia (Planeta for example) and I think all of their wines still taste more like Sardegna than Australia.

[Boris_A]

Jim, as you maybe can imagine I enjoyed reading your enthusiastic Negri "Sassella La Tense" review!

If you ever care to visit the region, don't miss the 1 hour plunge from the glaciers (skiing possible until late may) of the Bernina pass road (~7000 ft, one of the most beautyful in the alps) to Tirano in Valtellina (1000 ft) before you start hunting for cheese, salumi and bresaola on local markets and visiting the wine producers around Sondrio.

Regards, Boris

[Brad Ballinger]

Jim,

I'm glad to see someone who shares my opinion on the Turriga. I was at a tasting several months back where I tasted the 1998 Turriga. The nose was all oaky vanilla and I dumped without tasting it. The Winebow rep and I had a moderate debate. We also continued the debate with respect to Notaio's La Firma. But I concluded it by saying that the wines will have no trouble selling even if none are sold to me. We both seemed to agree on that point.

[Craig Camp]

The Winebow rep and I had a moderate debate. We also continued the debate with respect to Notaio's La Firma. But I concluded it by saying that the wines will have no trouble selling even if none are sold to me. We both seemed to agree on that point.

I wish I could have heard that argument!