La Rochelle & Dordogne

[Gavin Convery]

I have plans to go the Hotel du Centenaire in Ezyies-les-Tayacs during my summer hols - it has 18/20 in GM and 2* - it sounds relatively cutting edge - anyone been?

[menton1]

Haven't been to this hotel, but I love the Dordogne! We always stay at a Chambre d'Hote and have had such good rooms and great meals with the families.

Do not miss the grottes with the ancient cave drawings-- the best of these is the Grotte de Font de Gaume, and the Grotte des Combarelles. Make sure to reserve well in advance, as they only allow about 150 people/day, because the CO2 we exhale is deleterious to the drawings! You can skip Lascaux II, it's a replica, but the 2 I mentioned are the real thing.

You may also want to try dinner at a Ferme Auberge, where everything served is grown or raised on the premises, by French law. Also don't miss the dreamy town of Sarlat-le-Caneda, and its great Saturday market.

[Bux]

I have plans to go the Hotel du Centenaire in Ezyies-les-Tayacs during my summer hols - it has 18/20 in GM and 2* - it sounds relatively cutting edge - anyone been?

Yes, we've been there, but it must be over 15 years ago. I'm in no position to say if it's cutting edge. It seemed up to date at the time. Contemporary rather than cutting edge. I don't remember the details of the meal all that well, but I remember enjoying it very much. Indeed, I believe that was the summer the dollar was worth ten francs and we ate a lot of foie gras. My most distinct memory was of a young and inexperience waiter or runner, who up ended an older bottle of Cahors dumping some sludge in my last bit of clear wine. I could see a look of horror in the eyes of the sommelier across the room. The only other person who seemed to notice was our twelve year old daughter. I took delight in her keen observation and understanding of the situation. The meal was too good to let me bother to make a fuss however. Overall I thought it was a lovely place, but we've never managed to get close enough to stay there again.

[cigalechanta]

In La Rochelle, I like Coutanceau's son place, "Les Flot."

[Steve Martin]

In La Rochelle, I like Coutanceau's son place, "Les Flot."

They are both the sons of Richard Coutanceau. Grégory is at Restaurant Richard Coutanceau, Christopher at Les Flots.

http://www.coutanceauonline.com

[nyc cyclist]

This is a request that is slightly different from yours. We are taking the TGV to Bordeaux and will stop in St. Emillion by car. Can anyone recommend the best town outside of Bergerac to stay? We are looking for an auberge or a bed and breakfast that will be the site for our short bike trips in the area.

[Marco_Polo]

Can anyone recommend the best town outside of Bergerac to stay?  We are looking for an auberge or a bed and breakfast that will be the site for our short bike trips in the area.

Hi nyc cyclist. I'm a road cyclist and I love the Dordogne. I was out there last month, in fact, not cycling but helping my brother-in-law, who has just taken over a 3-star Logis de France between Bergerac and Sarlat. It would be a lovely base for cycling day trips as it's situated roughly between Bergerac and Sarlat (maybe 20K from each?). He's got a great local chef serving both cuisine du terroir (foie gras, confit de canard, mushrooms, truffles, etc), as well as some more imaginative dishes. It's an absolutely stunning place, old stone building with nicely furnished rooms with views over unspoiled countryside, a huge outdoor terrace for eating in fine weather, dining room with open fire, and a small swimming pool. Also a secure area to put away your bikes. The hotel is called La Salvetat. Contact details are on the web site and the owners, Steve and Ann, are very friendly.

MP