Salumeria Biellese

[jogoode]

I was stuck in Chelsea for a time today and thought I might as well check out Salumeria Biellese, reported maker of fine salumi, some of the city's best. Ed Levine, I believe, called the owner a genius of salumi in his Times article on heroes. I expected salumi hanging from the ceiling -- an Aurthur Ave/Mike's Deli kind of experience. This place was a run down little shop with some raw sausages, some prepared pasta and eggplant, and some salumi peaking out of a fridge behind the counter. I'll spare you the long description of my awful hero: bland salumi and flavorless roasteds. When I got home I reread Ed's article and found this

Marc Buzzio, the genius of salumi, who owns Salumeria Biellese on Seventh Avenue

. The one I tried was on the corner of 8th Ave at 29th Street.

Are there two places with the same name, one designed to fool impatient readers like me? I was obviously in the wrong place, right? ... right?

[jogoode]

I think I was at the right place

[rozrapp]

Definitely the right place. Last week, I spotted their truck parked around the corner from the shop, on 29th St., in front of Biricchino, the restaurant they own. I've never been to either one.

[slkinsey]

Sounds like you were in the right place. AFAIK, there is only one Salumeria Biellese, on 8th Avenue at 29th Street. There are two parts of Salumeria Biellese: Most apparent is the mediocre sandwich/hot table takeout store. But, if you go the small counter furthest from the door, you can order their excellent salume by the pound (most of which are not available on sandwiches, AFAIK).

They sell the vast majority of their salume to restaurants, and likely do very little retail business in salume. Thus, there are no hanging prosciutti, salami, etc.

[jogoode]

But, if you go the small counter furthest from the door, you can order their excellent salume by the pound (most of which are not available on sandwiches, AFAIK).

aha! Still, I will not be back.

[slkinsey]

But, if you go the small counter furthest from the door, you can order their excellent salume by the pound (most of which are not available on sandwiches, AFAIK).

aha! Still, I will not be back.

As a lunch counter, they're mediocre. But still... if you want guanciale, zampone, cotechino, etc., they're the best in town.

[jogoode]

That's hard to believe. Who makes the stuff, what are his qualifications, and why does he allow his shop to make such poor sandwiches?

[slkinsey]

That's an interesting question. Part of it, I think, is that they don't really care about the sandwiches that much. It's more or less totally divorced from the restaurant salume business (many, perhaps most of the good Italian places in NYC get their salume from Salumeria Biellese). My guess is that it exists as a working man's lunch counter as an afterthought just because they happen to have a street-level place in an area where they can do some business. FWIW, I've had a perfectly acceptable, if not exceptional meatball hero there.

Take it from me... buy a guanciale from them and make yourself some bucatini all'Amatricana. Then you'll see the light.

[jogoode]

I'll try it. I'm surprised there's no well known story behind this place.

[albie]

Jogoode, several newspapers, including the New York Times, have done features on Saumeria Biellese. By the way, its restaurant annex on 29th, Il Biricchino, is a pretty good little neighborhood joint, an excellent place to sample the salumeria's handiwork.

[jogoode]

Thanks albie. I have to try the place again and request the good stuff. It is hard, though, after such a bad sandwich.

[Mackey]

Salumeria's curing room is located below the shop in the basement. You are correct-it is not apparent what goes on below-but it is amazing what they produce in such a small space. Their saucisson d'ail is excellent. If you are a chef, Paul Buzzio would probably be glad to give you a tour of the operation-all production is usually done by about 2pm-I believe because of meat inspectors on site, union rules, etc.

[albie]

The bottom line here is: if you want first-rate zampone or guanciale, Salumeria Biellese is the only game in town.

[LESider]

That's an interesting question. Part of it, I think, is that they don't really care about the sandwiches that much. It's more or less totally divorced from the restaurant salume business (many, perhaps most of the good Italian places in NYC get their salume from Salumeria Biellese). My guess is that it exists as a working man's lunch counter as an afterthought just because they happen to have a street-level place in an area where they can do some business. FWIW, I've had a perfectly acceptable, if not exceptional meatball hero there.

Take it from me... buy a guanciale from them and make yourself some bucatini all'Amatricana. Then you'll see the light.

I agree, I've had some really tasty sandwiches there. The last one I recall was a pork sausage cooked to order made with apricots and an herb which I forget. It was excellent. It was not a sausage with casing, but trhe meat mixture flattened out into a patty. That said, there pasta's look depressing. and someof the other premade stuff seems mediocre. But its one of those, you have to order right kinda places.