Burg. with friends

[Florida Jim]

Paul and Sandy Jaouen came to dinner and we ate grilled duck breast, white asparagus with cherry/walnut chutney, salad, bread and cheese. Accompanying wines:

1984 Ampeau, Volnay Santenots:

Lush is the apt descriptor for both the nose and palate but there is no lack of backbone. Really delightful red fruit aromatics and a richness on the palate that seems typical of the vineyard. Very few wines are as sensuous. Still has some grip and finishes long if ever so slightly fading. Lovely and in full bloom.

This maker bottles very early on in the process, hence the wines require more time in the cellar – fortunately, there is a reward for such patience. A fine bottle of Volnay is all any one can ask, especially with duck.

1996 d’Angerville, Volnay 1er:

Similar to the above wine but more streamlined and focused with less of the lushness and length. But it also gives the impression of being immature, so I hold hope it will be much more given sufficient time.

2000 G. Roumier, Clos-de-la-Bussiere:

A powerful wine that belies the hype of the vintage. Meaty, structured, deeply flavored but rustic at the moment and lacking integration; needs many years to mature. Still there is rich fruit, ripe tannin and a presence in the mouth that makes me think its maturity will find it robust and succulent; much like a Clos-de-Tart.

Best, Jim

[LOS]

I expect the D'Angerville was indeed wayyyyy to young. I can't be sure, because I ain't opening any of mine for another 5 years.

I haven't had that particular 2000 Roumier, but I have had a couple of others (Chambolle village, Les Cras) and they were absolutely delicious. I wouldn't pay full US retail for either of them, but they could be very tempting on closeout.