SBC Cafe, Herndon

[phamthuhuong]

Thank you Joe for making me aware of SBC. We went there tonight and I had the "best meal in my recent memory". I had a cold cucumber soup with crawfish cream fraiche, when my husband tasted my soup he had to order one for himself. I had curry crusted lamb chops $18.95 I enjoyed it very much. My hushband loved the veal shank $17. We had a bottle of Stonegate cabernet sauvignon for $40. We drove from Springfield and we'll do it again.

[bilrus]

Don't know if anybody saw it, but there were excerpts from Siestema's review in Friday's USA Today.

Although I have had a second good lunch there earlier this week, that's pretty broad exposure for a place like this. I wonder if the people who put it in the USA Today have been there, with the HQ being just up the road.

I like SBC, but I would be a little disappointed if I was coming in from out of town expecting a little more than what's there.

[Steve Klc]

How was it presented Bill? Do you have a link?

I ask because I've now had three dinners there since we began talking about this place and I will keep going back. It's an overachieving very cute cafe that I wish was a little closer to my house in Arlington--there isn't a single restaurant closer, comparably good at its food & wine price point and style. The owners are committed, charming, so is the service. Rare for a fine dining restaurant, rarer still for a cafe. Previously on this thread I went a little toe-to-toe with Joe H over what I viewed as him mis-perceiving/misinterpreting what Tom Sietsema had written about this place. Now that I've been there a few times I, unsurprisingly, find myself agreeing with Tom and those on this thread who find this place charming in its own way and on its own terms. It's both a find and a value.

Sure not every dish is a winner and there is some subtle and not-so-subtle drop off when the chef is off (as on my last visit; his wife was running the FOH and his sous chef was in the kitchen. The two didn't seem to be communicating as well as they could have.) We've had a dull Thai flank steak salad when the chef was there and a dull dry jerk pork dish when the chef was off; we've had that impressive tuna tartar app off of the "specials" list with wonderful sauces (wasabi especially) and also a not-so-good, sloppily diced and cut up version with those sauces made poorly; candied ginger to die for twice (best candied fruit or zest I've ever had) and barely edible the next time.

And not to beat a dead horse--but regardless of how the food is priced--why quibble over a few bucks when you factor in some very good wines which are not marked up as they should or could be? There are many very acceptable food wines here under 20 bucks a bottle and as a result this place is a bargain based on my sense of what the dining dollar around town buys on the moderate end. I'll never pay 24/26 bucks for a just-average entree at, say, Cashions Eat Place again when places like this (or Vermilion in Old Town Alexandria) keep popping up. I've found really inexpensive things which blew me away, like the Cuban sandwich and the shellfish tamale--they're so good--even on the night the chef was off they were great--that I have a hard time NOT ordering them and I usually try to order everything once before recycling. (Ask for extra pickles on the Cuban, you'll get them cheerfully. This Cuban is not as good as the Cuban at lunch at Cafe Atlantico--but then Kats and Jose employ a secret method there which I don't believe has been mentioned anywhere yet. Try it and see if you don't agree.)

Skip dessert, even that chocolate diablo terrine Tom liked is forgettable. This place can be more consistent as well, the less well-received, less well-conceived dishes should be removed and replaced sooner--but I for one will eagerly continue to patronize this place because they are trying and succeeding in surprising ways already--and might get even better with a little support from us.

Sometimes the wines and dates on the printed list don't match up with what's served--but that is usually communicated orally. I've seen some special stemware brought out for more expensive wines--no problem here. A suggestion, though--they should switch to 8.5 x 14 paper for their wine list and print it off in house--it seems they take it around the corner and print the list out on oversize paper. Inefficient and no real upside. Even their most inexpensive wines are still pretty good. On the lowest end, we've had a very nice Glatzer Gruner veltliner, a $9 or $10 bottle marked up to $18.95, the 2001 Luis Felipe Edwards Carmenere--also a 10 buck wine on the list here for 18 (not as good as the 2000 Terrunyo Puemo Valley by Concha Y Toro or 2000 Veramonte "Primus" but much much less expensive.) And the Michelle Chiarlo "Nivole" Moscato d'Asti is a STEAL at 13.95--order that instead of dessert and thank me.

Enjoy this place now even with its flaws; we'll see what changes more press coverage like that USA Today mention might bring.

[bilrus]

Here is the link to that. Its at the bottom of the page.

I am looking forward to trying a dinner there. So far I have just done lunch twice.

And now I will need to go to Cafe Atlantico for lunch next time I am downtown to get a Cuban Sandwich. I love those things. Thanks for the tip.

SBC Cafe - USA Today

[bilrus]

I just stopped in for my regular Cuban sandwich with black beans and roasted pepper soup here today and got some bad news for those of us out this way.

I guess recognizing me as a somewhat regular, the owner (?) told me that they are going to be moving to Dupont Circle on P St. across from Obelisk in September. No word on when they are closing up in Herndon.

She said that they would have patio seating and it sounds like this will have about four or five times more tables (which still isn't huge). The menu will remain similar to what it is now (eclectic), but with more extensive choices.

This is an interesting move. I like this place, but will they stand out in a neighborhood with a lot of choices like Dupont, even on the small stretch of P St. they are moving too?

A move had been hinted at on another thread earlier this year - allowing for more business for them. Dupont will defintely bring the business. It will be interesting to see how they do.

Edited June 21, 2004 by bilrus (log)

[bbq4meanytime]

Bill you say Dupont will definitely bring the business, and I hope so. There is a lot a competition down here and the beauty of SBC out in Cow town Herndon was there there was little competition. I hope they don't end up a just an average restaurant in DC, I'm not sure what would make them stand out.

[bilrus]

Bill you say Dupont will definitely bring the business, and I hope so. There is a lot a competition down here and the beauty of SBC out in Cow town Herndon was there there was little competition. I hope they don't end up a just an average restaurant in DC, I'm not sure what would make them stand out.

I really meant potential business. And a more visible location.

[sdelgato]

Joe would that be the same Four and Twenty Blackbirds that sells Yellow Tail Merlot for 24 a bottle... Oh that will go over all right, like a lead zepplin... It certainly is good but you have to remember context. Its cute for Flint Hill, not DC. Beside I prefer the Public House. Better wine list, and the food is highly underratted.

[Joe H]

I'm not certain what Four and Twenty Blackbirds and the Flint Hill Public House have to do with this thread although I much prefer Four and Twenty. I do agree that the SBC Cafe will have a great deal of competition on P Street. In Herndon it stood out, at least before they stated running $20 dinner specials in their cramped, non descript dining room. On P street they're going to have to offer quite a bit more.

[Steve Klc]

Ray's the Steaks seems to do just fine with their cramped non-descript dining room--that's because enough people who know food, and who appreciate very good food for a fair price are able to look past a cramped non-descript dining room and appreciate Ray's for what it is. That never happened out in Herndon for the SBC folks, which will be to Herndon and the outlying area's continued detriment and to our gain, those of us who live close to the city. Let no one bemoan the lack of good chef-driven independent restaurants and cafes out in the burbs. SBC never "stood out" in Herndon amongst enough of the apathetic and/or unappreciative locals otherwise they'd likely still be there making a nice living. I would have preferred it if they relocated to Arlington or Clarendon, and that was the other location their team was considering, but rents are skyrocketing here. Also, it's also not like Dupont is chock full of very good food at a fair price anymore--far from it. It will be interesting to see what changes they make moving into the city, whether they keep their "cafe aiming higher" approach or move more overtly upscale, whether they keep their wine pricing as favorable as it was, whether they keep that damn fine Cuban sandwich (second best in the city), and whether they're up to the task. I hope so, they're good talented people deserving of support. And I miss that $8.95 seafood tamale, one of my favorite dishes anywhere from the past year.

[mnebergall]

Far from it. It will be interesting to see what changes they make moving into the city, whether they keep their "cafe aiming higher" approach or move more overtly upscale, whether they keep their wine pricing as favorable as it was, whether they keep that damn fine Cuban sandwich (second best in the city), and whether they're up to the task.

OK. I'll bite. Who has the "first" best cuban sandwich in the city?

[Steve Klc]

Cafe Atlantico. Jose and Kats do something special with the pork, I'm not quite sure if anyone has ever talked about it or if it is a secret they'll be pissed at me for sharing, but I think they confit it, or at least poach it in some kind of fat, and it just oozes flavor and moistness. Man that thing is good, I've never made a single dessert that good. Ask for extra pickle.

[Joe H]

SBC's "cramped nondescript dining room" was fine when they were charging $12 to 15 for their entrees. At $20 it seemed even more cramped and less worthwhile. Frankly, this is not a restaurant that for me that ever lived up to its hype. It WILL have a lot of competition in D. C. Even for Herndon there were many alternatives.

As an "apathetic and unappreciative local" I would argue that if SBC had not raised their prices after Sietsema's review and had continued to deliver the kind of good food for fair value that led him to it in the first place, well, maybe they wouldn't be leaving. There are similar restaurants "out here" that have done well for the past several years at the same or lower price point serving what I believe to be better overall food. These range from the independently owned Blue Iguana and Cafe Europa to the remarkably good chains such as Sweetwater. Cafe Europa is cramped and non descript. It is also better than SBC.

This is also not the side of an argument that I want to be on since I'm sick of all the chains which one after another continue to open in Western Fairfax County. There is a very definite need for more chef owned restaurants here. We're we disagree is how good SBC was after they raised many of their prices.

[Sbasil]

Hello Egullet. I have stayed out of this for a long time but I feel I have to defend myself. Joe H I am sorry you are always so unhappy with us (SBC Cafe) First of all we are not closing. Our menu prices have not changed much. Our dinner entrees range from $10-$15 with jerk pork loin at $14.95. The conch chowder is under $4 and we lowered the price of our mixed green salad. Our wine prices haven't changed either Sterling Cab '01' Vitners Collection (I know commercial but one of our customers likes it) $23 Jordan Cab '00' $60 up to Justin Isosles at $80 (we sell alot). I know $80 sounds high but this is a very good value. We have a retail section in the store and you can open the bottle and drink it in house for $5 extra.

Joe is right some of our specials go up to $20. We sometimes run a whole curry crusted rack of lamb (12-14 ounce) for $20.95. I can't sell this for any less. The lamb is expensive, so is the sauce (reduced wine and demi glace), two sides, and bread. We also sell alot of fresh fish specials in the $15-18 range. Fresh Halibut (usually picked up that morning from Swedish Fish) 6-7 ounce fillet pan roasted w/ fennel crushed new potatoes, myers lemon-saffron sauce, tomato-olive relish, and fresh basil $17.95 or it might be Madras Grouper on Coconut Grits w/ pineapple chutney. We sold a fish special over $20 two times. Once it was John Dory and the other time was on New Years Eve and it involved lobster. We sell a NY Strip special for $22, 14 ounces. We sell a whole Moullard duck breast for $16.95. Veal cheeks and white polenta app for $6.95. Sorry to sound like a commercial. We had a very famous DC restaurant owner/chef eat here and his first words to me were your food cost must be over 40%. Joe I feel you are being very unfair. As far as I know you have been here one time with your wife. You had the trout special, chicken caesars, and two bowls of pepper soup. I'm not into knocking other restaurants but I am offended by some of the places you compare us to. We have not lived up to all the hype. Where is all this hype happening. I missed it. We are are not trying to be fine dining. Our hope was to be good food, good wine at a good value. An alternative to all the chain food. Believe it or not many of our customer like the atmosphere, the Europeans and New Yorkers.

Edited June 24, 2004 by Sbasil (log)

[Sbasil]

Sorry for all the spelling errors. I was in a hurry and didn't proof read.

[DonRocks]

Welcome to the forum, Sbasil. I believe your spirited posting will be well-received by all participants here.

Just last night, I received a private correspondence from an industry VIP, lambasting me for certain things I wrote. I urged him to air his viewpoint in this forum, because it's important for restaurant professionals (such as you) to feel welcome to come here and discuss their work, which you did very well with this posting.

Cheers,

Rocks.

[bilrus]

SBasil, I'm curious about something. You appeared to do a very brisk business at lunch (which is admittedly the only time I have been). Was the move prompted by lack of business in Herndon, especially at night?

I ask because we have had discussions here and on other threads about how receptive this area is to independent, chef-focused restaurants, so I am curious as to whether this area was supportive of what you were trying to do, which I saw as bringing good food to an underserved area under some obvious restraints.

[Sbasil]

Bilrus sorry took so long not many chances to go online. I am not at liberty to talk about the new place yet. Later this week I should be able to. Lunch has been good. Dinner is a little tough. Weekends good but weeknights are hard. Not alot of support from the area but we will stay open as long as we can.

[Steve Klc]

My wife and I stumbled onto a special evening last night quite by accident out in unappreciative Cowtown. We walked up to SBC at 6PM--I had had the hot-sweet seared scallop on coconut grits, the tuna tartar with wasabi aoili and candied ginger and also the seafood tamale on my brain all day--just to find there were maybe 25 people in the place already--and my first reaction was damn, the eGullet mojo must be working, DonRocks must have worked his inestimable magic--there were as many people here at 6PM as there are usually at Ray's the Steaks at 6PM. And here I thought this place wasn't doing as much dinner business as it should be doing! Hadn't word spread like wildfire about the ridiculously high pricing here? Or was this a long overdue outpouring of support from the usually-too-indifferent tract-home-dwelling chain-restaurant-loving exurban neighborhood upon hearing the news SBC was moving to the old Be-Du-Ci space in Dupont?

Turns out the cafe was closed for a wine dinner last night, but since I'd always thought one of the strengths of SBC was its interesting affordable wine list, and since there was a last minute cancellation, we settled into a booth and scanned the room. What were so many attractive well-groomed people doing here instead of hanging in the Penn Quarter? Hadn't they heard this was a non-descript dining room? I looked down at my Teva sandals but before I could feel even the slightest bit hesitant about crashing this party poorly dressed, Ana(?) the wife of the chef whisked over to pour our first wine of the evening--and as she's done without fail on our previous 6 or 7 visits made us feel completely welcome. She whisks around the dining room treating everyone this way, really well, and really sincerely, not just other chefs like me who are known to the house.

We had stumbled upon a Michel Schlumberger/Country Vintner wine dinner--more specifically the import side of Schlumberger which we found out last night has been split off and renamed Vintage 59--and that our host for the evening was going to be Lori Varsames. She turned out to be a real sweetheart, very fun, very cool, with nice confidence and presence in front of the group talking knowledgeably about the all French wines we'd be having--mostly 2001 and 2002 vintages from younger French winemakers (or older winemakers who passed the reins to their sons) who use organic or biodynamic farming methods.

The wines and the pairings were super, and while the chef doesn't feel he does "French" cooking all that well, you wouldn't have known it from the satisfaction I derived from the menu. None of last night's dishes were regular cafe menu items but all could be. I think what Mark does well is just "be" himself in his food: humble, shy, committed, and last night he was.

The meal started with three distinct interesting whites, my apologies in advance to the wine geeks for mispellings and errors:

Blanc de Coupe Roses, 2002 cuvee Champ du Roy, Cotes du Brian from the Minervois (Francoise Frissant le Calvez et Pascal Frissant) was served with a canape of toast, with tapenade topped with a quail egg half and a chiffonade of basil. The toast was a little too thickly cut, like 5/8ths of an inch thick where 1/4" would do, but this was delicious and the basil/olive went really well with the minerally nature of the wine. I had another glass of this wine before the next course imagining how well this wine would pair with, say, Thai basil in an Asian dish;

Then came the 2002 Domain de la Garrelierves "Cendrillion" from the Loire with a cup of asparagus soup drizzled with a little chive cream; just delicious.

Then a white Burgundy with mussels in basil butter with some fougasse flat bread Mark baked and stuffed himself. 8 mussels in their half shell, with a brunoise of tomato and the basil butter melted over them, served with the Normand Macon La Roche Vineuse, 2002 I believe but I didn't see this bottle;

Perfectly cooked, as in nicely under-done, duck breast slices in some demi with a hint of powdered strawberry came next, along with a mushroom "napoleon" which was more strudel or spring roll than napoleon--still delish however, more so with the pinot noir Lori picked, a perky but elegant and smooth premier cru Domaine Lucien Muzard Santenay "Maladiere" 2001.

Perfect braised veal cheeks with a perfect little clump of sauteed baby arugula and a perfect roasted garlic custard flan (that I could have had ten of) followed, ably matched with two reds: the bargain-priced, simple but good Chateau Haut-La Pereyre Bordeaux 2001 and the best wine of the evening, the Domain Louis Cheze 2001 "Cuvee Ro-Ree" St. Joseph.

Dessert was a choice between orange pots de creme or lavender creme brulee.

And they had the nerve to charge $65 per person for this, including essentially unlimited pours of all the wonderful wines, which in my case was about 12 glasses of wine spread out over the whole evening. Damn those money-grubbing bastards out at SBC Cafe.

[sara]

Wow Steve...Sounds great, lucky you. When are they moving to Dupont??

[bilrus]

On my last visit there I was given a flyer about this and was going to post something about it too, but forgot once I started talking about the impending move.

That veal cheek and garlic flan course sounded great, even on the menu.

I am headed there for lunch in about a half an hour. Maybe they'll have leftovers.

[chefette]

Steve - you forgot to add the little smileys to go along with your sarcastic commentary so I will add them in for you - here

Thanks Sweet Basil Cafe - Wonderful evening! Great food, great wines, nicely matched. A really amazing value! and SBC dresses up real nice at night - I think it is quite charming. If you need a mood wall, a snotty tux-clad waiter, $30 napkins or bone china in order to enjoy good food there just isn't much hope for you as a real food lover.

[bilrus]

It appears that my original post included some misinformation - according to Sietsema the Herdon location WILL stay open after all. Good news for both the 'burb and city dwellers.

Weekly Dish

[JennyUptown]

I'm bummed that they're replacing BeDuCi - it was a great spot for visiting parent dinners.

[bilrus]

I just had lunch today at SBC and they have done some renovating, sprucing the place up a bit. They've removed (if I remeber correctly) the soda coolers in the dining room as well as the large wine rack near the counter, really opening up the space and they have added a new tile front to the counter, hardwood floors and a new lighter paint job.

It's still no Citronelle or 2941 in terms of the space, but it is a noticable improvement.

I also read on that other local food board (of course from an anonymous poster) that SBC was recently sold by the original owner. Don't know if that is true or not (menu was still the same today) and was curious if anyone had the inside scoop.