The Lincroft Inn

[rozrapp]

The Lincroft Inn is a restaurant that has been around for a long time. It stands on a corner at the intersection of Newman Springs Road (aka Route 520) and Middletown/Lincroft Road. According to the history provided at the front of the menu, this large, charming house dates back to the early-1600’s, with the current bar area being the section first erected. (It’s on the original foundation.) It served rather mundane food, much the same sort of uninspiring menu that can be found at the Buttonwood Manor in Matawan, Van’s in Freehold, and the Colts Neck Inn. After we moved to this area of NJ many years ago, we would eat at the Lincroft Inn every once in a while, but stopped going there – as well as to those other restaurants -- after we developed more educated palates.

When I read in Rosie’s Food Bytes that Eric Hambrecht, the chef at The Frog and the Peach, had been hired as the Lincroft Inn’s new Executive Chef, it certainly caught my interest. Hiring someone of that caliber obviously indicated that the owners were looking to significantly raise the level of the food. So, I put it on my “go to” list. Well, it has just been reviewed in this month’s NJ Monthly , by Valerie Sinclair, who had nice things to say about the food and gave it two stars. It immediately moved to the top of my list.

Prior to this visit, our last dinner there was about 20 years ago. My husband reminded me that we ordered roast duck, and I feel certain that if we had returned anytime during the ensuing 20 years, it would still have been on the menu. Well, not anymore! Now they are offering the more modern magret de canard (the menu uses the English “duck breast”). More about the food in a moment.

We called late Wednesday afternoon and had no difficulty getting a reservation for that evening at 7:30. We were seated promptly in what is called the Garden Room, their No Smoking room. It is completely separate from the main bar area, which also has tables, where smoking is permitted. The Garden Room has a low ceiling, lots of dark wood, and a large bar in one corner. The tables are a good size; seating is comfortable; lighting is low enough for atmosphere but high enough to be able to read the menu; the quiet noise level makes conversation easy; and – as I gleefully mentioned to my husband – no music! (If you have read my comments on the pet peeves thread, then you know that, for me, this is a gigantic plus!!)

As we were seated, we were given menus and the wine list, which has a Wine Spectator Award of Excellence. A basket arrived that contained some Italian bread, pencil thin bread sticks and, best of all, some very tasty flatbread. There was a small bottle of olive oil already on the table, and butter was provided without having to ask for it.

Since the reviewer had raved about the appetizer of grilled mixed wild mushrooms in a mushroom reduction with sautéed spinach, we decided to share that. It was, indeed, outstanding in every way. For the main course, I chose the duck breast in a demi-glace, accompanied by wild rice, mushrooms, and fava beans. The duck breast was plump and sliced into several large pieces. Cooked precisely as I had ordered it – medium rare – it was supremely tender, succulent, and delicious. The accompaniments were perfectly prepared with the sauce adding just the right touch. My husband chose the filet mignon with a foie gras sauce, accompanied by mashed potatoes and red cabbage. He raved about the meat, saying it was one of the finest he had had in a long time. It was also prepared exactly as he had requested – rare. He said that the sauce was superb and the accompaniments were excellent. For dessert, we shared a pear almond tart with cinnamon gelato. The pears and crust were good, but it was served ice cold, and I think the flavors would have been better if it has been served closer to room temp. The gelato was very cinnamon-y (if that’s a word), which we liked.

Our bill came to $80 before the tip. The mushrooms were about $10. The filet was the most expensive main on the menu at $29. I think my duck was $24. The dessert was either $6 or $7. We felt that prices were very fair considering the quality of the cuisine. No half bottles of wine. They do offer litres (13 oz.?) and wine by the glass. My husband’s glass of French red was $6.

Now, for a few quibbles. Better bread would be appreciated. Our server was pleasant and efficient, but he recited the specials and without prices. Although there were just two apps and one main on his “list,” I still think it would be better if they printed them out on a little card, with prices, and inserted the card into menu. (Another of my dining out pet peeves.) More important, someone needs to train the busperson not to take used knives off finished first course plates and put them back on the table for re-use. My husband spoke up and asked that they be replaced with fresh ones. Of course, we needed sharper knives anyway for our main courses, and our server provided two gorgeous Laguiole steak knives. They do have excellent wine glasses. However, I think they should do something about their china – plain blah beige. O.k. for the food that used to be offered, but not in keeping with this new cuisine. Presentation was rather old-fashioned as well, and not particularly attractive. My main course plate was relatively small and oval-shaped. The rice was spread out over the entire plate with the duck breast plopped on top. And my husband’s round main course plate was rather small so that his food looked very crowded on the plate. Perhaps they don’t want to discomfort or scare off all the previous clientele by making things too stylish?

Overall, ours was a pleasant and delicious dining experience. With other enticing items on the menu, we look forward to going there again soon. I’m sure you remember the slogan, “You’ve come a long way, baby!” That now definitely describes the Lincroft Inn.

The Lincroft Inn

700 Newman Springs Road (Route 520), Lincroft

Tel.: 732-747-0890

Open Every Day beginning at 11:30 a.m.

Mon. – Thurs. til 10 p.m.; Fri. & Sat. til 11 p.m.; Sun. til 9 p.m.

Casual Dress

Edited February 21, 2003 by rozrapp (log)

[Rosie]

Thanks for the report although after reading everything that you had to say I am not sure if I want to try this place. The business with the knives is also such a turn off.

" More important, someone needs to train the busperson not to take used knives off finished first course plates and put them back on the table for re-use. ohmy.gif angry.gif My husband spoke up and asked that they be replaced with fresh ones."

So--go back again and let us know if it is worth the trip!

[rozrapp]

Thanks for the report although after reading everything that you had to say I am not sure if I want to try this place. The business with the knives is also such a turn off.

So--go back again and let us know if it is worth the trip! 

Frankly, Rosie. I would take the Lincroft Inn over two places in the vicinity that you liked any day of the week (though we don't generally dine out on Saturdays). I am referring to Sogno, where we had a most disappointing second meal not long ago, and Osteria Dante, where our one and only dinner was totally underwhelming. Despite the knife glitch and my other quibbles, the cuisine -- at least what we tasted on this one visit -- is definitely worth a return visit for us. (It's only 15 minutes from our house. )

[Rosie]

Thanks again Roz. If I'm in the area I'll give The Lincroft Inn a try.

[rozrapp]

Rosie, I do agree that, at this point, the LI is not worth a special trip if you live a long distance away. But, yes, if you happen to be in the area, go for it.

[rozrapp]

On Wednesday evening, my husband and I went back for dinner at the Lincroft Inn, this time with another couple. They had eaten there before the new chef came on board and so were anxious to try it after I had told them about the cuisine’s transformation. Earlier in the day, I mentioned to my husband that, since we hadn’t been back to the restaurant, I hoped the food would live up to the billing I had given it so that I wouldn’t suffer the embarrassment of having suggested a place, only to find that the quality of the food was not consistent. “I hope the chef is still there,” I joked. Well, my husband took me seriously and called the restaurant to check. Yes, he was told, Chef Eric Hambrecht is still at the helm.

We each started with a different appetizer. Mine was one of the evening’s specials – Grilled Chicken Terrine With a Fig Compote. The terrine was delicious, not in the least dry, as could happen if not cooked with a sure hand. It had a meat-y taste, the grilling added a nice flavor, and the fig compote provided just the right sweet counterpoint. Another of the specials chosen was squash and goat cheese tortellini in a light broth. The other two apps were from the regular menu: a smoked salmon and cucumber tart with crème fraiche and caviar; and a shrimp cocktail. All were praised as delicious.

For the main course – all from the regular menu – the two men elected to go with the Filet Mignon, accompanied by mashed potatoes. My husband had had it during our first visit and thought it so delicious that he had to try it again. He said that it was as good as he remembered, and the other gentleman agreed that it was one of the best filet mignons he had had in a long time. We two ladies chose the Almond-crusted Sea Scallops in a Red Wine Reduction with Pureed Parsnips. Four large scallops were perfectly seared and succulent. The parsnips were very creamy and made for an unusual and delightful accompaniment. The scallops and parsnips were topped with a watercress salad, and the wine reduction rimming the plate offered just enough flavor, not at all overpowering. This dish was a smashing success!

For dessert I had the Lemon Curd and Raspberries in a Pastry Cup With a Raspberry Sauce. The lemon curd was puckery without being too acidic; the pastry cup was buttery and flakey; and the fresh raspberries and raspberry coulis were the perfect accompaniment. Two others also had this – and loved it -- and the fourth person said her choice of the Seasonal Fruits was a good one.

As mentioned in my previous report, the wine list here has a Wine Spectator Award of Excellence. The men selected a full bottle of a Cote du Rhone to go with their steaks, and our lady friend had a glass of Pino Grigio to accompany her seafood.

We had a comfortable, capacious corner table, and it was ready on the dot for our 7:30 reservation. Our server, Elise, was extremely pleasant while carrying out her duties in a professional manner. Throughout the meal, she never once interrupted the flow of conversation, all service was carried out very unobtrusively, and she never asked that ubiquitous, though annoying -- at least to me -- question, “How is everything?” I am also happy to report that there was no problem this time with dirty knives being returned to the table! However, I still wish that they would print out the specials with prices. Elise read them off from a little card, and she did not include prices. There were many more items this time than last, and I had to ask her to repeat some of them a couple of times before making my selections. (At my age, the little gray retention cells are not what they used to be! ) Ordinarily, I would have asked the prices, but I could not since we were being hosted.

As it turns out, Elise told us that Chef Hambrecht was not in the kitchen on Wednesday. Seems he is on vacation this week. Not to worry. Obviously, he has an extremely capable staff. The four of us agreed that, in every respect, the meal was terrific!