Sushi Yasuda

[bpearis]

A little non-food item here. If you sign up for SY's mailing list they send you a holiday card every year in the form of a Sushi Origami kit.

2005's was Eel:

Last year was Fugu:

This year it's, um, a fishing boat:

Not the most exciting one for 2007, but still pretty cool.

[alanamoana]

A little non-food item here. If you sign up for SY's mailing list they send you a holiday card every year in the form of a Sushi Origami kit.

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another reason i'm sad we left new york...i miss those little holiday origami kits!

[raji]

Had a long overdue dinner at Sushi Yasuda last Monday night - and can say confidently that it can continue to sit atop the NYC sushi pyramid earning all the praise, awe, and hat0rade it continues to - they really haven't skipped a beat and I've dined there over several years. Really to no detriment besides not sitting in front of the namesake , we actually sat in front of the second sushi chef. One of my friends actually prefers cocheese, and one judge of a sushi chef is the quality of his mentoring - by that merit Yasuda is a certainly a master. So while me and my friends were conversant mostly in Japanese (although our sushi chef was happily translating the fish names into English when I asked), I also got to observe Yasuda-san entertaining the corner, and let me tell you, his English has improved! He was involved in a spirited debate over K-1 fighting. Apropos to his dexterity, I think it's worth noting that he's serving 2-3 times as many diners as the 4 other sushi chefs who are limited to the 2 to 3 in front of them.

Can't remember the full lineup, but we had a winter version of the lineup Doc had last summer. Discussing the meal afterwards with 2 old Japanese friends, we all remarked how there just wasn't elsewhere operating at such a high level of consistency, from piece to piece; fish, saucing/salting, craftsmanship, and the wonderful rice. I didn't touch my soy sauce once. I am not exactly the hugest shellfish fan and I throughly enjoyed the oyster and uni, each salted and sauced? to perfection. Certainly other highlights were all the shiromi (whitefish), aji, saba, iwashi, they were all knockout. The only possibly negative remark was that Kurumazushi has better tuna - well, for that money, they had better - apparently Kuruma has first pick of tuna and buys it right off the deck of the boat.

Yasuda, Shimizu and Ushiwaka Maru (back open!) are easily my 3 favorite sushi bars in Manhattan, and they are also 3 much different experiences and 3 different meals.

Yasuda is the temple, the spotless shrine to Japan's "other" national dish, and operates at Japanese efficiency - the only warm fuzzies you will get sit atop perfectly formed mounds of rice. If you feel rushed by the pacing and the waitress stationed behind your seats - well, there are probably others queued up ready to eat sushi too, so do your fellow man a favor and move it along, and continue drinking at Sakagura across the street. That's what we did - we were all catching up big time and ended up there 90 minutes. We didn't feel rushed, but you can tell they wouldn't mind that you don't linger all that long.

Ushiwaka Maru is Yasuda's little funky brother who went to art school downtown. He charges a bit less and gets a bit wackier with his sushi, but he's gotten sentimental and is similarly obsessed with authenticity and integrity, on a smaller scale than his brother uptown. He also touts, and delivers, superb rice and craftsmanship. To open a "Zagat's", you'd think Americans are singularly obsessed with the quality of the fish; but as the itamae himself would espouse, this is a simply a matter of sourcing and not even half the battle. This sensibility, existent at both Yasuda and Ushiwaka Maru, appeals to Japanese diners and certain sushi aficionados on another dimension.

Shimizu kind of splits the difference - he's the middle brother, he's a bit more conservative and understated, and will never receive or illicit the kind of attention the #1 son and the baby of the family do. He's flown under-the-radar far too long now. Meanwhile, he's fully capable of, and has, delivered a meal just as stellar as the other 2 brothers. He'd just never tell you so. He's the kind of sushi chef who makes you wonder how much the affability and salesmanship, and often the "story of the fish", of one sushi chef vs. another, has truly altered their perception.

They may be 3 of the most authentic, but they also happen to be 3 of the more affordable options in top-end sushi dining in NYC. When inauthenticity can also mean creativity, they may be guilty of a certain lack of flair - and this shows on the bill. Thing is, you might not find such a high level of consistency - what I've found is, as sushi gets creative, it also means that there can misses among those hits. This just doesn't seem to be an issue at this trio.

[oblate777]

I am from the DC area and Sushi Yasuda sounds like a dream. However, the only time I can do (Saturday evening) is booked solid. Should I try to walk in or are there any alternatives worth trying?

[raji]

If you showed up early and were willing to wait an hour or 2, they could probably fit you in, if you REALLY must go there. Why not try out Ushiwaka Maru?

[oblate777]

That sounds good, thanks for the advice.

BTW, beg pardon for not reading all the way down 'cause I just saw the recommendations above my post....

[Bu Pun Su]

For sushi fans, just incase you're interested in my review of Sushi Jiro (see the bottom post), please click here

Thanks

Edited April 19, 2008 by Bu Pun Su (log)

[raji]

After a layoff of several months, I'm back at Yasuda tomorrow night, any intel I can gather for you folks? There have been several uni, anago, unagi-sourcing discussions and people also PM me questions... tomorrow night, I'm actually in front of Yasuda, which I haven't made a point of doing in perhaps a couple of years....

[JWangSDC]

After a layoff of several months, I'm back at Yasuda tomorrow night, any intel I can gather for you folks? There have been several uni, anago, unagi-sourcing discussions and people also PM me questions... tomorrow night, I'm actually in front of Yasuda, which I haven't made a point of doing in perhaps a couple of years....

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If you are willing to ask(I wasn't). You might ask Yasuda why he slices his fish so thin and if he's tried thicker pieces. I'm 100% sure his answer is he believes in his proportioning for optimal taste but I'm only 75% sure I beleive he isn't lying. Maybe you'd get a good feel on whether he's lying.

[raji]

I think that's a potentially offensive question whether you ask before or after the meal.. I just don't know a good WAY to ask that... but you know the answer - it's taste AND tradition. Another answer is, so that you can try different kinds of fish through the meal without filling up too quickly. I think most Japanese are surprised at the size of sushi in this country - so in Yasuda's defense, he is a purist and this is what you'll find in Japan. Also thicker slices often is the result of an inexpert chef.

A funny trend in Japan is that some of the more popular sushiya actually do feature LARGE sushi like you'd find in America. It's a gimmick to draw people in, but it's also a testament to their stagnant economy. People would rather spend $50 to get filled up than $150 to go on a journey.

I might get an Ippudo ramen after the sushi - my friend's working there tonight. My Japanese friends laugh at me for this, for being TOO Japanese

[Hiroyuki]

I'd say few questions are offensive to any sushi chef (and anyone else) if you try not to be blunt. You can always ask a chef such questions as:

What do you think is the ideal amount of vinegared rice for nigiri? (The answer is probably in the range of 20 to 25 g.)

What do you think is the ideal ratio of vinegared rice to a topping?

[JWangSDC]

I think that's a potentially offensive question whether you ask before or after the meal.. I just don't know a good WAY to ask that... but you know the answer - it's taste AND tradition. Another answer is, so that you can try different kinds of fish through the meal without filling up too quickly. I think most Japanese are surprised at the size of sushi in this country - so in Yasuda's defense, he is a purist and this is what you'll find in Japan. Also thicker slices often is the result of an inexpert chef.

A funny trend in Japan is that some of the more popular sushiya actually do feature LARGE sushi like you'd find in  America. It's a gimmick to draw people in, but it's also a testament to their stagnant economy. People would rather spend $50 to get filled up than $150 to go on a journey.

I might get an Ippudo ramen after the sushi - my friend's working there tonight. My Japanese friends laugh at me for this, for being TOO Japanese

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I agree that it's potentially offensive but I think you misunderstood my question. I would be perfectly fine with Yasuda's pieces if he removed 33% of the rice and did not increase the fish size. My issue is the fish to rice ratio. Places like shimizu, 15 east, kuruma zushi, and even Masa all serve a larger fish to rice ratio and it's something I GREATLY prefer. Honestly if Yasuda would cut his fish thicker or just give 33% less rice, I would proclaim Yasuda the best sushi spot in NYC.

[JWangSDC]

I'd say few questions are offensive to any sushi chef (and anyone else) if you try not to be blunt.  You can always ask a chef such questions as:

What do you think is the ideal amount of vinegared rice for nigiri?  (The answer is probably in the range of 20 to 25 g.)

What do you think is the ideal ratio of vinegared rice to a topping?

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This is basically my question in reverse. I firmly beleive I know what the ideal is and Yasuda does not serve that. He has too much rice compared to fish. My gf swears yasuda is being cheap and that's why he does it, I like to think he's just stubborn and thinks it tastes better that way. Really only sasabune and yasuda have this problem. Everywhere else puts more fish/rice ratio. To name a few... Ushi wakamaru, 15 east, Kuruma Zushi, Masa, Shimizu, Hatsuhana, Jewel bako, and hte list goes on and on and on.

[oakapple]

I firmly believe I know what the ideal is and Yasuda does not serve that. He has too much rice compared to fish. My gf swears yasuda is being cheap and that's why he does it, I like to think he's just stubborn and thinks it tastes better that way.

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I think there are two certainties. Yasuda isn't going to say, "You're right; I'm cheap." He's also not going to say, "You're right; I'm stubborn."

[Fat Guy]

I think if you disregard any issues of cost Yasuda's sushi is amazingly good as is the delicate rice-fish balance. And if you want to factor in cost then get the sushi matsu lunch special, which is amazingly good and an amazingly good value.

[JWangSDC]

I think if you disregard any issues of cost Yasuda's sushi is amazingly good as is the delicate rice-fish balance. And if you want to factor in cost then get the sushi matsu lunch special, which is amazingly good and an amazingly good value.

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I just want to clarify my stance from the beginning. My complaint is not about value, it is about quality. I already consider Yasuda to be a GOOD value when it comes to sushi. My issue is he puts too much rice compared to fish. Again, I'll gladly pay $5 for hte same piece of sushi from yasuda with 33% less rice but no more fish. And don't tell me I can just take the rice off myself, because I can't. if I did that while sitting in front of him...I'm not sure what would happen but I know I'd never do it.

When i get to my computer over this weekend I'm going to post pics of toro I make, 15 easts toro, Yasuda's toro, Kuruma's, and Ushi Wakamaru's. I'd guess yasuda's fish to rice ratio is close to 2:3 by weight (fish to rice) everywhere else is more like 1:1 or 1.5:1 (fish to rice ratio by weight)

Edited July 25, 2008 by JWangSDC (log)

[Fat Guy]

I like the sushi-rice ratio he uses but I think it should be easy enough to ask for less rice. I've seen several people in several sushi bars tell the chef "small rice, please; I get full easily" without offense. I've also seen chefs adjust the amount of rice per customer, such as giving less to a small woman than to a big guy like me (this happened to me and a petite female guest once at Yasuda).

[JWangSDC]

I firmly believe I know what the ideal is and Yasuda does not serve that. He has too much rice compared to fish. My gf swears yasuda is being cheap and that's why he does it, I like to think he's just stubborn and thinks it tastes better that way.

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I think there are two certainties. Yasuda isn't going to say, "You're right; I'm cheap." He's also not going to say, "You're right; I'm stubborn."

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haha very good post. I guess a lot of my posts are pointless complaints because I already have tried to get the answers. The last 3 times I sat with yasuda (in June), he never failed to mention how his salmon (like copper river salmon) costs 5X the price of regular salmon but how they only charge you roughly 2X the price based on weight. I actually agree with him on that point.

[JWangSDC]

I like the sushi-rice ratio he uses but I think it should be easy enough to ask for less rice. I've seen several people in several sushi bars tell the chef "small rice, please; I get full easily" without offense. I've also seen chefs adjust the amount of rice per customer, such as giving less to a small woman than to a big guy like me (this happened to me and a petite female guest once at Yasuda).

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Hmm, I'm going to have to disagree here. I don't think Yasuda will be accomodating in this area. If you have a smaller mouth he makes even smaller pieces but keeps the fish/rice ratio very standard. I actually have a couple pictures of him serving me a regular sized piece with a mini sized piece becuase he was having fun making jokes at my girlfriend.

At other sushi restaurants I would certainly agree with what you are saying. At higher end restaurants I would become hesitant to agree and at Yasuda I feel fairly confident he would strongly illustrate his contempt for your request. I guess I'm going to have to bring a new friend with me next time and have them make the request though.

Edited July 25, 2008 by JWangSDC (log)

[Fat Guy]

Well, Yasuda is idiosyncratic so he could very well reject the requests that other sushi chefs accommodate, however I'm sure I've seen him do less rice with the same size toppings (of his own volition, not on request) -- so I don't think he has an absolutely fixed ratio in mind.

If you have the book "The Zen of Fish," by Trevor Corson, there's an interesting general discussion of this issue on Page 272. One priceless quote:

"Look, if a big, fat guy sits down at the sushi bar, you figure he likes carbohydrates, right? So you make his nigiri with more rice."

[Fat Guy]

By complete coincidence, I noticed a link to a brief interview with Yasuda on the Zagat website. He addresses the point we've been discussing here:

There are two Japans: old Japan and new Japan. Old Japan is what I follow here at Sushi Yasuda and focuses more on traditional sushi making, with special attention paid to the rice and to correct portion size. Here at Sushi Yasuda, rice is very important and I make and season my own rice, like they used to in Japan. Also, the nice clean small slices are the way of traditional Japan and what you see here. New Japan mirrors more of what America is now in relation to sushi. . . . . Big cuts are seen as a positive thing in this new sushi world, which is not necessarily true.

[JWangSDC]

By complete coincidence, I noticed a link to a brief interview with Yasuda on the Zagat website. He addresses the point we've been discussing here:

There are two Japans: old Japan and new Japan. Old Japan is what I follow here at Sushi Yasuda and focuses more on traditional sushi making, with special attention paid to the rice and to correct portion size. Here at Sushi Yasuda, rice is very important and I make and season my own rice, like they used to in Japan. Also, the nice clean small slices are the way of traditional Japan and what you see here. New Japan mirrors more of what America is now in relation to sushi. . . . . Big cuts are seen as a positive thing in this new sushi world, which is not necessarily true.

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I may be misinformed but I think Yasuda is misrepresenting himself. Aren't jewel bako/15east/soto/masa/ushi wakamaru/urusawa already small/clean slices? To me, that's what small clean slices are. Big american sushi is served at places like tomoe, yama, and kirara. I also may be wrong, but from what I gather sukeroku, jiro, and mizutani all still serve small clean slices. However sushi dai serves larger more american sized slices.

Yasuda also groups the omakase style service and individual attention paid to each piece with his "old japan" definition. Certainly the restaurants I listed fall into that category. They also pay very close attention to rice even if not as much as Yasuda.

In any case my point is that there are small clean slices and then there are Yasuda's slices. He makes it a point to cut them so thin that every piece tastes almost the same. Honestly, sometimes I figure, why not jsut by 50 pieces of his cheapest salmon since it's so fresh and well cut the texture is the same as his toro?

Although, Yasuda has explicitly told me that he disapproves of all other sushi bars including those in japan now. He said true sushi was served back in the 80's in japan, so that would further your point.

Still, I can't help but feel that "small clean slices with a focus on rice" is exactly what the other restaurants I listed serve. Yasuda serves something altogether different, which as far as I can tell, no longer has any equivalent anywhere in the world. And my opinion is that the other restaurants have a better take on small/clean slices anyway. I find it to be such a shame that Yasuda's fish variety is consistently larger than 15easts, his rice at least as good always, and his fish quality is much more consistent yet I always enjoy my meal at 15 east more. If only he would just slice his fatty fishes thicker. I just think toro/salmon need to have a thicker piece to truly be enjoyed. Things like engawa and other white fish taste great when sliced Yasuda thin, but other restaurants differentiate and do that anyway.

Edited July 30, 2008 by JWangSDC (log)