Salzburg, Schladming, Linz, Vienna, and Budapest

[purplechick]

Hi all, so I've read all I could find on this forum about the places we will be visiting in Austria and Hungary in February (see subject line for the list). I would love to hear any updated recommendations people have. To give you an idea of what we're looking for, we like to mix things up and have a few high-end gourmet meals and also dig up places the locals like for "authentic" food. I also love shopping in markets and interesting food shops.

Salzburg (2 nights)

Has anyone actually been to Hangar-7? I can't decide if it sounds overblown or interesting. A new chef every month? I wonder how long it takes them to get in the groove?

It sounds like in Salzburg itself Die Blaue Gans, s'Herzel at the Hotel Geldener Hirsch, Stiftskeller St. Peter, and Augustiner Brau (just outside the city I understand) are good bets. Oh, and someone mentioned Magazin. Are these still good? Any new recommendations?

Schladming (4 nights)

Has anyone here been to Schladming? It is part of the Ski Amade ski area. It looks like it has amazing skiing, plus you can take buses (free with a lift ticket) to any of a number of other great ski mountains nearby. Look here if you're interested: www.skiamade.com

Anyway, if anyone has been there and knows about the restaurant options I'd appreciate any recommendations. I'm guessing it will be hearty traditional fare, great for apres ski.

Linz (2 nights)

I understand that the best Linzertorte is to be had at Haus Jindrak, is that still true? Any other recommendations for Linz?

Vienna (1 night: I know! I wish we could stay longer)

I think we will try to get a reservation at Restaurant Coburg. I also plan to visit Cafe Braunderhoff for coffee and pastries. If the Coburg doesn't work out, should we try for something else fancy like Steirereck or Osterreicher im MAK or should we shift gears and go for something more traditional like a Beisl (some recommended here are Zur Stadt Krems or Pontoni)? Thoughts?

Budapest (6 nights)

From what I've read here good places include: Bagolyvar, Fatal, Kis Kacsa, Kadar Etkezde, Aranyszarvas, and Bock Bistro

We'll definitely try to pick up some Palinka at the Bosnyak ter market, along with sausages and fank as recommended.

Cafe-wise I've seen Ruszwurm Cafe spoken of here along with Jegbufe and Auguszt Cukraszda, are they still good?

For lunches I understand we should look for places called "etkezde" for traditional food. Any particular favorites?

Thanks for your help and I promise to report back.

[cmling]

Just a quick note concerning Vienna:

The Restaurant in the Palais Coburg has closed. Österreicher im MAK is not fancy at all, but excellent value for money. The Café Bräunerhof (I think that is what you meant?) is not so great for pastries, but has a wonderful atmosphere - a type of café that is dying out.

[purplechick]

Just a quick note concerning Vienna:

The Restaurant in the Palais Coburg has closed.  Österreicher im MAK is not fancy at all, but excellent value for money.  The Café Bräunerhof (I think that is what you meant?) is not so great for pastries, but has a wonderful atmosphere - a type of café that is dying out.

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Thanks Charles, it's always great to get information from people who live in the place where you are going.

Yes it was the Café Bräunerhof that I meant. It sounds like the atmosphere is just what I was looking for however, it's unfortunate to hear about the pastries. Is there anywhere you would recommend that would combine both old world ambience and good pastries?

[cmling]

Don't let me dissuade you from a visit to the Bräunerhof! I didn't want to imply that their pastries are sub-par, and I think the atmosphere is pretty much unique.

But if it's pastries first and foremost, I suggest Demel or Landtmann. Both have "atmosphere", too, but expect lots and lots of tourists (not a bad thing per se, of course).

As to fine dining, I have heard that Steirereck is firing on all cylinders again, but haven't been there for a long time.

I have had some excellent meals at the "Le Ciel" restaurant in the Grand Hotel over the past few months. Highly recommended.

If this link works, it should give you an idea what to expect. They are very much into unusual herbs and spices.

http://www.leciel.at/index.php?idp=4〈=2

Edited January 17, 2009 by cmling (log)

[Boris_A]

If the Coburg doesn't work out, should we try for something else fancy like Steirereck or Osterreicher im MAK or should we shift gears and go for something more traditional like a Beisl (some recommended here are Zur Stadt Krems or Pontoni)?  Thoughts?

I think it was me who recommended ZSK or Pontoni. They are are more about "Beisl"-atmosphere than about food (which is absolutely not bad at all within their circle of competence).

For a "one night stand" in Vienna like yours, I continue to recommend "Schnattl" for very well made, modern but non-international and clearly traditional-Austrian influenced food.

And yes, don't miss Bräunerhof!

Good luck!

Edited January 25, 2009 by Boris_A (log)

[purplechick]

For a "one night stand" in Vienna like yours, I continue to recommend "Schnattl" for very well made, modern but non-international and clearly traditional-Austrian influenced food.

And yes, don't miss Bräunerhof!

Good luck!

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Thanks Boris! Is this the right address for Schnattl? Lange Gasse 40

[IFS]

Vienna: be sure to do Steiereck - they just received there second star last year. Very solid traditional cooking with a modern touch. If you want to drive do Hanners in MAyerling about 30 km away. Modern cuisine, interesting concepts and a very nice location!!

Hangar-7 is the pet toy of an Austrian billionaire (well, before the crisis) Dietrich Mateschitz who created and still owns Red Bull (funny, isn't it?)... In the restaurant Ikarus is a steady head chef Roland Trettl and a monthly changing guest chef. In Feb it is Dani Garcia from Calima in Marbella, one of the modern bunch. Indeed intersting to do.

There is a very large brigade in Ikarus and normally the guest chef is two weaks in Salzburg. Worth a visit.

[Boris_A]

Thanks Boris!  Is this the right address for Schnattl?  Lange Gasse 40

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Precisely!

http://www.speising.net/essen/detail/schnattl_wien/

[prasantrin]

Vienna: be sure to do Steiereck - they just received there second star last year. Very solid traditional cooking with a modern touch.

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Steirereck has stars? When did they first get them? I don't remember them have any stars when I ate there (2004), but I didn't pay much attention to those things.

I did enjoy my meal there, though, and my mother still talks about it longingly.

Edited January 26, 2009 by prasantrin (log)

[plattetude]

Just outside Salzburg nestled in among the Alpen peaks is the quaint village of Werfen, and the two-Michelin-starred Obauer, which is both a superb restaurant and cozy hotel. Phenomenal dining, and the breakfast was fantastic too.

Sigh.

Christopher

[cmling]

Steirereck had two stars back in the days when there was no Michelin for Austria. But Vienna and Salzburg were included in the "Main European Cities" guide (or something similar).

The Obauers' breakfasts are legendary.

Edited January 28, 2009 by cmling (log)