Jump to content
  • Welcome to the eG Forums, a service of the eGullet Society for Culinary Arts & Letters. The Society is a 501(c)3 not-for-profit organization dedicated to the advancement of the culinary arts. These advertising-free forums are provided free of charge through donations from Society members. Anyone may read the forums, but to post you must create a free account.

Sign in to follow this  
Lenski

L'Angle

Recommended Posts

L’Angle/ October 19, 2008

Last year, I discovered Chef Jordi Cruz’s incredible culinary talent. My review of L’estany clar can be found here. After some delays, his new place L’Angle finally opened. The restaurant is part of HERE, a beautiful complex that includes the romànic monastery, the moderniste house, Alícia (Ferran Adrià’s food and science institute), a very sleek hotel, several restaurants and Chef Cruz’s L’Angle. I highly recommend spending a whole morning/afternoon to visit the installations, mainly the impeccably restored monastery. A cab ride from the Manresa train station will set you back around €15, a cab to/from Barcelona around €80-90.

I want to apologize for the quality of the pics. They do not do justice to Chef Cruz talent.

gallery_47955_6264_1039958.jpg

The restaurant has been appointed very elegantly, clean lines, a torrent of light, wood and black stone. Everything merges seamlessly with the setting. It is a contemporary space that feels very inviting and warm with a beautiful view of the monastery. The gardens that surround the hotel/restaurants are an olfactory delight thanks to the many herbs that grow there and that Chef Cruz uses in his creations.

gallery_47955_6264_4364.jpg

We had the tasting menu with the wine pairing. However, we asked for a limited number of wines (we had plans that required a somewhat clear mind).

1) Gin tonic subtil. Gin tonic foam, apple, lemmon ice cream. A very refreshing start.

2) Esqueixada de bacallà infusionada. Cod esqueixada. A staple of Cruz. The little “spheres” are romesco and black olives. A highly fragrant Arbequina olive oil finishes the dish. An excellent dish.

gallery_47955_6264_581344.jpg

3)A very delicate “focaccia” with foie and not your usual roasted beef.

gallery_47955_6264_223107.jpg

4)Ostra amb destil.lat de poma verda. Another Cruz classic but with a twist. The leaf tastes, itself, like an oyster and the delicate bitterness of the green apple beautifully contrasts with the oyster

gallery_47955_6264_1767.jpg

5)Fals nyoqui de tomàquet.

gallery_47955_6264_779.jpg

6)Truita de riu amb pinya (River trout with pineapple)

7)Rogers tractats com una amanida

8)Foie rostit amb pera al cardamom (Roasted Foie with pear and cardammon)

gallery_47955_6264_2886.jpg

9) Arrosset gorgonzola amb escamarlans de costa, gelea veneré I rúcola. Another classic from Chef Cruz large cannon.

10) Turbot salvatge rostit amb infusió de bolets

11) Garrí ibèric pur amb poma

12) Criofiltrat de maduixeta

gallery_47955_6264_3008.jpg

13) Masses de xocolatata a les espècies.

gallery_47955_6264_4399.jpg

14) Sopa fresca de meló amb kefirs. (A very delectable and refreshing dessert)

And a week later, I had to go back to try the other “tasting menu.” I am only including different creations that were not part of the other tasting menu.

1) Mojito. The same technique as in the gin-tonic and still very refreshing.

2) Guisat de cloïsses amb fals nyoqui de carxofa.

gallery_47955_6264_1023497.jpg

An outstanding dish. The false artichoke gnocchi and the “cloïsses” (“clam” does not accurately convey a cloïssa or almeja) were absolutely sublime, the whole dish came together wonderfully.

3) Calamar de potera amb aigua de calamar I allioli de citronella.

gallery_47955_6264_539383.jpg

The allioli was in the tube, but the “calamar water” was strongly infused with that, surprisingly, did not overwhelm the calamar: tender and lightly accentuated with black rice spaghetti.

4) Vieira saltejada amb textures d’oli d’arbequina, crema bretona, api-nap, soja en estats I clorofil.la. (Scallop sautéed with arbequina oil textures, bretonne crème, parnsnip…)

This is another classic from Chef Cruz. Superb ingredients and a wide arrangement of flavors.

5) Pop gallec amb gelea de pebrots, aromatitzat amb fum de faig.

gallery_47955_6264_213060.jpg

A technique that I have seen before (Celler, for example) but it worked wonderfully here. Not for the weak of palate, the peppers gelea was strong complementing the delicate “pulpo” superbly.

6) Arrosset de llagostí I foie.

7) Llom de rap I gamba de costat amb guisat de pells I coralls, nyoqui tradicional de safrà I taronja amb oli Donostiarra.

gallery_47955_6264_263007.jpg

Another explosion of flavors and top quality ingredients.

8) Espatlleta de cabrit amb bolets

A perfectly executed traditional dishes with some gustatory twists that shows how perfectly Chef Cruz combines traditional catalan cooking and modern techniques without compromising any and accentuating both. This is a trademark that is evidently in all his creations.

9) Brioix rostit al fron amb gelat de mel I cruixent d’anís.

gallery_47955_6264_448277.jpg

All the desserts were incredible, but this one was devastating in its simplicity. The moist cake mixed with the honey and rosemary ice cream was a perfect way to end my reencounter with Chef Cruz.

If someone needs more info. on the dishes and would like a more detailed explanation or some pictures (I cannot upload them on egullet for some strange reason) email me and I will do so. I think he is a very talented chef and the new setting is incredible, a great compliment to his dazzling talent.

Lenski

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Chef Cruz is certainly beyond culinary talent - his dishes are visual masterpieces. The first thing that catches the eye is the stylish elegance and zen-like presentation. It is a known fact that the eyes eat before the mouth, and what a first taste one gets from his elegant arrangements. Anyone visiting the restaurant must take a photocamera - there is just so much to record!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Sign in to follow this  

  • Similar Content

    • By thecuriousone
      Hi All-
      I tried a recipe out of The good cook, James and Jellies over the weekend. It is a bitter orange, lemon and watermelon Jam. Actually its more like a marmalade. The recipe went together easily, but a curious thing happened while I was cooking it. The recipe said to add 3 cups of sugar for each 4 cups of fruit and simmer slowly for 1 hour. I did that but at the end of the hour, the consistency still seemed thin. My first though was to reduce it further. I pulled some out of the pot to taste and continued to reduce. I never did get to a really jelled consistency, however the taste started to change, it lost the fresh watermelon flavor and took on almost a "tea taste" like the sugars in the watermelon had carmelized. It doesnt taste bad but should I have taken another approach? I'm not familiar enough with sure gel to use it if its not called for in a recipe.
      Any help would be appreciated. Its a beautiful jam, I would just like to maintain the fresh watermelon taste and have it thicker.
    • By Prawncrackers
      Hola egulleters! Those of you who know me know that I like to turn my hand at Charcuterie now and then. Nothing is more satisfying than breaking down a whole pig and turning it into delicious cured meats and sausages. I'm quite happy making a wide range of products but there's one thing that I just can't get right. Fresh Spanish cooking chorizo, in particular I want to try and recreate this wonderful stuff from Brindisa http://www.brindisa.com/store/fresh-chorizo-and-morcilla/all-fresh-chorizo-and-morcilla/brindisa-chorizo-picante/
      They're wonderfully red, juicy and packed with deep pimenton flavour. Now when I make them I can get the flavour right but the texture is all wrong, very mealy, not at all juicy and the colour loses it's vibrancy too easily. What's the secret to them I wonder? Some kind of additive and/or food colouring?
      My recipe sees me mincing 2.3 kg fatty pork shoulder through a fine die, mixing with 80g pimenton, 50g salt, 30g sugar, 35g fresh garlic and stuffing into sheep casings. Here's a photo of them:

      I rest them overnight in the fridge before cooking with them. Maybe I should be putting some curing salt in there and hanging them for a couple of days? Does anyone have any experience making this kind of juicy fresh Spanish chorizo or even chistorra?
    • By milla
      For mid-May in all categories.
    • By riceman
      Dear friends,
      I would like to list here clever gastronomic proposals out of the ordinary to innovate in the kitchen. As an initial example propose our own proposal of cooking our homegrown rice to make our paellas in "El Sequer de Tonica", Spain.

      Who said that everything is invented in the field of gastronomy. I wait for your suggestions!!

      Cheers,
    • By Virbonus
      We've just come from 4 days in Madrid and an evening in Toledo. In Madrid we ate at Casa Salvador where my wife's oxtails were superb but I can only rate the flavor of my tripe as good, though it was cooked perfectly. I thought Barbara was going to swoon over the roasted marrow bone and beef at Sacha. She started with a fresh tomato salad in a very light balsamic vinaigrette that was perfection. I had the fried artichokes - paper thin slices of baby artichokes fried in olive oil that had the texture of potato chips but were pure artichoke flavor. I followed that with brains that were superb - lightly battered and fried, slightly crunchy on the outside, milky soft inside. Barbara had a chocolate thing for desert and she flipped. I had something akin to creme caramel, but I have no idea what it was, other than outrageously good. I think it had cielo in the name, but since I asked the maitre d' to just pick out deserts for us I'm not sure what we had.
      Then on Tuesday we went to David Muñoz's Diverxo. Extraordinary. And that's saying something because we got off to a really bad start. Twenty minutes to get a glass of wine ordered from the time we were seated. Then, when asked if I'd like chopsticks to which I replied in the affirmative, none ever arrived, but the food transcended all. An amuse bouche of edamame seasoned, perhaps with sumac and something else with a buttermilk-like garlic dipping sauce. Then we both had the seven course tasting menu (the other choice being the thirteen course menu). The seven courses were actually around eleven since a course would often be divided into two halves served sequentially, like the poached prawn (it was called something else) that arrived followed by the grilled, seasoned, head and body with the juices from the body drizzled over the poached tail. Somewhere in the middle were white asparagus wrapped in the skin of red mullet - actually the meal involved parts of red mullet in several of the dishes, such as a pate of red mullet liver on a thin crisp. The courses that I sort of remember include the soup served in a young coconut shell where eating the coconut meat was a desired part of the experience, a steamed roll with a quail's egg yolk barely poached on top, an extraordinary piece of tuna cheek that tasted like a sous-vide cooked short rib, and a piece of ox cheek that had been slow roasted for 112 hours, a small piece of hake served sauced accompanied by a horseradish cream and spherified lime, and a desert which I no longer remember. Very, very highly recommended.
      Yesterday, we made our way to Toledo, where completely by chance we went for lunch to Adolfo. It turns out that the chef, Adolfo Muñoz, is David Muñoz's uncle. And he cooks like it. Not modernist, but brilliantly. Barbara had a simple "small" salad ordered off the menu which was beautiful and then a scallops and artichokes starter with fresh baby artichokes and incredibly dense scallops barely accented with maldon salt flakes that were perfect. I had a risotto of black rice cooked with squid ink and baby calamari and manchego cheese that was off the charts followed by red partridge that was excellent, but paled in comparison to the risotto. Excellent.
      Now we're off to Lisbon.
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×
×
  • Create New...