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TN: Learning curve


Florida Jim

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Sometimes, Asimov is a learning experience. His recent column on the merits of red wine that is served very cold made an impression.

2002 Clos Roche Blanche, Gamay:

The geranium nose is beaten back and it’s mostly light fruit scents; really nice in the mouth with crisp acidity backing fresh fruit and mineral flavors; medium length. Being refrigerator cold made the difference; I like this wine now whereas, at cellar temperature, not so much.

Speaking of learning, I thank Claude Kolm for introducing me to the wines of Aubert de Villaine (no, not DRC) from the Côte Chalonnaise:

2005 de Villaine, Bourgogne La Digoine:

A feminine wine but a female who does four hours of pilates a day and only eats one meal; lovely clear scents of cherry and Burgundy; elegant but intense fruit with good complexity and a grace that is hard to describe but easy to love; fine length. Still young but utterly pure and fabulous.

2005 de Villaine, Mercury Les Montots:

The masculine version from this house with a gamey aroma and a meaty texture, even more complex than the preceding wine but less ready to drink with some unresolved tannin and a slightly disjointed finish. Even so, one of the best pinots I’ve had this year.

The first wine was $32 and the second $38; I can’t think of any better pinot noir wines at that price. And these have a future in the cellar – there isn’t a doubt about that. If you can remember only one name in Burgundy, remember this one.

Best, Jim

www.CowanCellars.com

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