Hakata Ippudo

[raji]

this menu wasn't exactly what was presented to me yesterday for lunch but it's pretty close.  i had a bowl of the akamaru shin-aji.  broth was heavy and quite flavorful.  the restaurant had a nice buzz.  mostly communal tables which were about 3/4 full.  there will undoubtedly be lines out the door when they offically open for dinner.

Wonder how many people are reading this.... well by officially you mean Monday, right? I'm sure we'll be alright for tonight...

[kathryn]

Strongbuzz's review:

http://thestrongbuzz.com/buzz/details.php?item_id=298

So...the original or the modern?

[raji]

ohhhhhhhhhhhh yeahhhhhhhhhhhhhhh that was the good stuff.

Today I still bear the mark of a truly great ramen; a slightly burnt tongue. Many Japanese claim to possess what they call a "cat's tongue" so that this does not happen to them; I am, however, not one of them.

To answer Kathryn, The Akamaru modern, of course. I believe this is the recipe that won them some national competitions. But I tried the other shiromaru and the shoyuramen as well.

Myself and 4 friends hooked up with Donbert Thursday night... had to wait for about half an hour to sit down. The staff on the whole is very green (I gave our waitress, jokingly, a hard time after she dumped chopsticks and menus on our table, as well as bringing the ramen before the apps) but it's the soft opening, so, whatever. I read Andrea Strong's articles and one if it's mistakes (for instance, you would NEVER, EVER get a ramen to-go) is that the staff relocated from Japan to NYC - maybe a few of the managers, and maybe some of the other staff them came over here as English students or for other reasons, but when the restaurant is advertising for staff in the local Japanese newspapers, then obviously it's not like they all got on a boat and shipped over.

It wasn't the menu linked here -in fact, only 5 ramen were offered, a handful of apps, a dozen or so sake and a few shochu. This isn't any ordinary ramen-ya - big booths and an extremely long open/glass-ed in kitchen surround the large room. If you go downstairs to the bathroom, you can view some of the noodle-making hardware and materials brought over from Japan.

Basically, they followed the Gyu-kaku (just a few blocks away) formula, taking a large chain of modest-sized eateries in Japan, classing and sizing it up for NY. Gyu-Kaku doing this was always strange to me; they are basically the Red Lobster of yakiniku in Japan, and they managed to offer a lower quality for much higher prices in NY.

As long as Ippudo keeps up this level of cooking, you won't hear complaints from me. I've been predicting, on this board, others and to most of my friends, that Ippudo would seriously raise the bar for ramen in NYC, and as soon as my huge bowl was set down in front of me I knew I was in for a treat. I asked Donbert for permission, said my "itadakimasu!", and downed that first spoonful of broth and ohhhhhhhhhh man was it rich. Rich, soothing, yes, you know you're ingesting liquified porkfat, but it wasn't pooling up into bubbles of oil like you might see with a tonkotsu broth, it was all part of a grander scheme of things - additionally, there were seas of soy and garlic oil and a red ball of goodness, red miso, garlic paste, that you break into and release into the mix. And the noodles - well, I love me some Kyuushu-style ramen; it was always my favorite so I'm afraid you are getting a biased review here. But, here's your skinny, straight, bitey hatakamen in all their glory. I downed the entire bowl of goodness in 10 minutes flat, but the extra order of noodles was uncalled for. I tried Donberts shiromaru - not such an intense pork flavor, a distinct ginger flavor to it, and trust me, you don't want the FULL-ON heavy pork broth always. The surprise of the bunch was the shoyuramen - it was GREAT. Between those 3, I don't really need to go anywhere else, but why bother, nowhere else is really executing on that level except maybe Santouka, and based on one tasting, Ippudo is even better than them, as well.

This will unequivocally be the type of place downtown where I'll have to either try to go at off-hours or deal with a very painful waiting dance. This is where I hope they instill the Yasuda-style "eat and please now leave" policy; the ramen is too damn good, the focus must be serving as much of it to as many people as possible. Anyway, king of ramen indeed!

[Nathan]

just finished a very late lunch here. The pork belly with daikon was quite good and the broth in the akamura modern is something else!

[larrylee]

Just got back from Ippudo with Al and our respective better halves.

The service seems to have improved greatly since Raji's visit. :-D What really surprises me about Ippudo is the friendliness exuded by all the staff. You feel like you're in San Francisco or something.

There are about 83 seats inside. Only six at the bar. A series of banquettes that seat six (but could easily sit up to nine), a few communal tables and a central table that's ideal for single diners. Bar in the front (completely packed by the time we left at 8 PM or so). Given the crowd, we were surprised that we weren't rushed out. For the time being, the hostess said they were not taking reservations, but they might in the future depending on how things go.

We had the Shiomaru and Akamaru Modern bowls, along with the chicken kara-age, the pork belly, crab croquettes, and a bottle of Miyasaka "Yawaraka" junmai sake.

The broth is indeed really good - a deep, rich pork flavor. There's definitely a time and place for this type of broth, but for me it's sort of a one-note wonder. I'll be back to try the two other ramen types. Even if the broth were enough on its own, I would have liked to have had at least some options for toppings.

The ramen portions are quite managable. The broth is really, really hot. You'll either love the thinner Hakata-style noodles or you won't. I like thicker noodles. The noodles in our bowls all four orders) seemed to be overcooked, with no chew.

The pork belly dish was good, albeit very small and, at $9, rather expensive for the portions. It was accompanied by some rather nicely stewed daikon (but let's admit it, daikon is not a luxury item) that reminds me of Lan's foie gras/daikon dish.

The crab croquettes (with some sort of bechamel sauce, as they put it) were nicely fried, but with very little crab flavor and the bechamel seemed to be more like mayonnaise.

The sake was on the sweet side, a good foil for the pork.

The open kitchen and music (mostly Rage Against the Machine when we were eating) seemed very Ssam Bar-esque.

Post-meal questions:

1) Can you ask for your noodles to be of a particular done-ness?

2) Can you ask for your broth to be more or less salty? If so, how do they accommodate a less salty broth? Do they have two stocks, or water down the base stock? Or something else?

[raji]

The service seems to have improved greatly since Raji's visit. :-D What really surprises me about Ippudo is the friendliness exuded by all the staff. You feel like you're in San Francisco or something.

You mean Japan! Well, I didn't say they weren't friendly. They were exceedingly friendly to me.

There are about 83 seats inside.

Larry, did you count?

The broth is indeed really good - a deep, rich pork flavor. There's definitely a time and place for this type of broth, but for me it's sort of a one-note wonder. I'll be back to try the two other ramen types. Even if the broth were enough on its own, I would have liked to have had at least some options for toppings.

The ramen portions are quite managable. The broth is really, really hot. You'll either love the thinner Hakata-style noodles or you won't. I like thicker noodles. The noodles in our bowls all four orders) seemed to be overcooked, with no chew.

But wasn't that one note wonderful? If it were $8 a bowl run by a ticket machine up front, and if Ippudo weren't self-proclaimed ramen artisans, I'd be wanting some topping options. And gyoza. However, in this case I'm happy to put myself in their hands.

How quickly did you consume the ramen? After 5 minutes the noodles will start to get soggy and chewy, especially skinny hakata-men.

Post-meal questions:

1) Can you ask for your noodles to be of a particular done-ness?

2) Can you ask for your broth to be more or less salty? If so, how do they accommodate a less salty broth? Do they have two stocks, or water down the base stock? Or something else?

If it were Japan, usually anything like that would be spelled out on the menu or on a sign somewhere. But, being that it's NY, you could try to ask. However, the noodles should normally come al dente, and the stock not so salty, unless it's a shio or shoyu ramen of course.

Usually there's some base stock that is used to form the tare for the varieties, which they seem like they'll open with a half a dozen or so.

[larrylee]

  Larry, did you count?

I had a feeling someone was going to ask me about that. The hostess told me on Friday night when I dropped by for a quick look. I asked if they took reservations, and how big the place is.

But wasn't that one note wonderful? If it were $8 a bowl run by a ticket machine up front, and if Ippudo weren't self-proclaimed ramen artisans, I'd be wanting some topping options. And gyoza. However, in this case I'm happy to put myself in their hands.

Well, it was. As you pointed out, you can't live on that pork broth alone (*pauses while hearing a distant howl from sneakeater*). I just wish I had the option of adding some additional flavor in there. One's mileage, obviously, varies. Some like their burgers plain, others like toppings, right? :-)

How quickly did you consume the ramen? After 5 minutes the noodles will start to get soggy and chewy, especially skinny hakata-men.

We did have the obligatory photo op, but it was certainly less than 5 minutes. Still, I'll keep that in mind for the next time I'm there.

[raji]

How quickly did you consume the ramen? After 5 minutes the noodles will start to get soggy and chewy, especially skinny hakata-men.

We did have the obligatory photo op, but it was certainly less than 5 minutes. Still, I'll keep that in mind for the next time I'm there.

←

Ah see you must go at a bowl of ramen with gusto. Every second counts. I think Donbert wanted to take a photo of mine; if he did, I wasn't having it..

[raji]

Well, it was. As you pointed out, you can't live on that pork broth alone (*pauses while hearing a distant howl from sneakeater*). I just wish I had the option of adding some additional flavor in there. One's mileage, obviously, varies. Some like their burgers plain, others like toppings, right? :-)

Ah, do you mean toppings like sheets of nori, half-boiled eggs, naruto, cabbage, etc.? Or toppings like roasted sesame, roasted minced garlic, pickled ginger (their shops in Japan offer these and perhaps if we make enough noise collectively, they will too here). I'm not a big toppings fanatic; if you are, go to Minca, but I do like to change the characteristic of the broth by slowly adding in the aforementioned seasonings, maybe some chili oil or vinegar or shichimitogarashi

[larrylee]

Ah, do you mean toppings like sheets of nori, half-boiled eggs, naruto, cabbage, etc.? Or toppings like roasted sesame, roasted minced garlic, pickled ginger (their shops in Japan offer these and perhaps if we make enough noise collectively, they will too here). I'm not a big toppings fanatic; if you are, go to Minca, but I do like to change the characteristic of the broth by slowly adding in the aforementioned seasonings, maybe some chili oil or vinegar or shichimitogarashi

←

I would have liked a pinch of pickled ginger. I appreciated the sliced scallions. As for the chewy vegetable that's in the bowl, they should either add more or in or take it out altogether. It seems more like an afterthought.

Ultimately, though, I'm glad just to have another ramen shop in town.

[Nathan]

cabbage was the vegetable. agreed there wasn't enough.

[Sneakeater]

As you pointed out, you can't live on that pork broth alone (*pauses while hearing a distant howl from sneakeater*).

←

Hey, even I'll admit you need the fat.

[banquo]

I like everything about this place: it's cool, friendly, casual, and the ramen is awesome (Santoka might have a slight edge but that's irrelevant since it's, you know, in NJ).

Well, I don't like everything: the wait sucked and the bar area was seriously overcrowded. Going as a single might be the best bet. They have booths that seat up to 8 that seem to make no sense: I've never gone to eat ramen with 7 other people. Perhaps they're expecting a late night crowd scene though.

[alwang]

I basically agreed with most of Larry's comments, so I'll just toss in a few assorted observations:

- The non-ramen appetizers are all decent but overpriced. In addition to the pork belly and croquettes, we also had the chicken karaage: deep fried chicken morsels breaded in crispy panko. That was probably my favorite of the three starters, but even there, I'm not sure I'd order it again.

- The noodles in our ramen were definitely overcooked: I managed to sneak a few strands out of the bowl before the photo blitzkrieg, and they were already well past al dente.

- The broth is hearty and comforting, and reminds me of a homestyle Chinese pork soup that I've had. I appreciate that even though the broth is certainly fatty, that fat is well emulsified, creating richness rather than greasiness. Let it sit for a little while though, and the grease will separate into a layer on the surface.

- I suspect this opinion will be unpopular, but even though I enjoyed my ramen at Ippudo, I still found the Setagaya broth more complex and multi-dimensional. Ippudo's is certainly more porky, and I could appreciate that, but I really enjoy the combination of pork and seafood flavors that you get with Setagaya. Setagaya also has generally superior toppings (There's an argument to be made about the pork from either restaurant: Ippudo uses better quality pork and is more tender; Setagaya grills its pork for more flavor). Sure, I understand that there are different styles of ramen and it's tough to compare one to another, but if I could only keep one of the two restaurants in NYC, I'd take Setagaya.

[larrylee]

There was also a discussion of whether different cuts of pork were used for the basic and Modern bowls.

[JWangSDC]

Went for dinner tonight. 2 hour wait from 7:30pm wasn't seated until 9:30. I enjoy both setagaya and ippudo's noodles better than Santoku, but Santoku's broth is better imo.

Bottomline though, I can't see myself paying $13-$16 for a bowl of ramen when a seat at babbo isn't that far away.

[BryanZ]

Is it mainly white folks or Japanese or other Asian types?

[JWangSDC]

Is it mainly white folks or Japanese or other Asian types?

←

The place is overly trendy for my tastes and with trendiness comes a certain crowd. Personally, I just wanted a simple authentic japanese ramen spot. The majority were FOBBY asians, but when I say majority, i mean 51% as opposed to 90%.

On the way out I was asked by several europeans on how the food was, and I said "The ramen wasn't bad" and they said "I don't like ramen"...so...

I think that accurately describes the crowd.

[Nathan]

Is it mainly white folks or Japanese or other Asian types?

←

it was about 75% Japanese on Saturday. maybe 10% other Asians. but that was the soft opening.

Edited April 2, 2008 by Nathan (log)

[alwang]

Is it mainly white folks or Japanese or other Asian types?

←

it was about 75% Japanese on Saturday. maybe 10% other Asians. but that was the soft opening.

←

I think Larry and our party were most of that 10%.

[larrylee]

I think Larry and our party were most of that 10%. 

←

We were there early, and Nathan even earlier. (Unless he went back for seconds!)

When we left, I think the waiting area was predominantly Asian.

[Dryden]

Went yesterday with our baby for lunch. 95% of the place was Asian, and there were probably 15 groups with little ones. This is clearly the lunchtime spot for Japanese couples with kids... The group next to us came in all the way from Westchester.

Also, somewhat surprised no one has mentioned the awesome ramen spoons they are using... Anyone know where to get some?

[raji]

The group next to us came in all the way from Westchester.

That doesn't surprise me - they probably haven't had a good ramen since Mitsuwa, or Japan....

The spoons - you can get something similar at Mitsuwa, and/or probably Pearl River

As for who is going there - the customers can be a majority of Japanese, at lunchtime and right after work, and then the later it gets, I'd say the more current, grad and alumni NYU-style asians come through, with sprinklings of "foodies" here and there -

I'm happy to pay $13 for their ramen, at the bar or table, with water and/or tea, trendy or not.

[BryanZ]

Dispatches from the Ippudo front from some friends of mine who went this Saturday:

6:05pm: The place is adorable!  The manager has been standing outside

greeting customers.  There is a little bar area (Sapporo on tap), and

all kinds of ramen bowls on the wall behind the bar.  There are cute

Japanese women who take down our names.  The wait is 1 hour.

6:15pm: We are starving, and we find a street fair one block away, so

we want to get $1 Thai Food (our favorite booth).  The Thai food

place is closed, so we get a corn dog and mozarella sticks.  It was not

horrible, but cost is $11.  Ugh.

6:30pm: We return to Ippudo to wait.  In the meantime, the wait is now

one hour and a half.  Cute Japanese woman tells customers that there

were 100 people waiting in line before the place even opened.  Many

people walking in are turned off because they don't understand what the

big deal is.  Most of these look like unwordly-white people who just

don't get it.  We realize we are grossly outnumbered by Japanese

people.  Cool!

6:45?: We actually get seated sooner than we expected.  The guy who

seats us is wearing those wooden flip-flops!  The place is gorgeous!  It

is small, but cozy, and you feel like you are transported to Japan,

because they are all yelling these things in Japanese like every 3

minutes, and its just awesome.

Food: The Ramen is to die for.  The soup was so good!  We got the Ippudo

Ramen and another with some special sauce.  I don't remember the

names, but it was SO good.  Seriously, we will be back, even if we have

to stand in line for hours.

[raji]

Dispatches from the Ippudo front from some friends of mine who went this Saturday:

6:05pm: The place is adorable!  The manager has been standing outside

greeting customers.  There is a little bar area (Sapporo on tap), and

all kinds of ramen bowls on the wall behind the bar.  There are cute

Japanese women who take down our names.  The wait is 1 hour.

6:15pm: We are starving, and we find a street fair one block away, so

we want to get $1 Thai Food (our favorite booth).  The Thai food

place is closed, so we get a corn dog and mozarella sticks.  It was not

horrible, but cost is $11.  Ugh.

6:30pm: We return to Ippudo to wait.  In the meantime, the wait is now

one hour and a half.  Cute Japanese woman tells customers that there

were 100 people waiting in line before the place even opened.  Many

people walking in are turned off because they don't understand what the

big deal is.  Most of these look like unwordly-white people who just

don't get it.  We realize we are grossly outnumbered by Japanese

people.  Cool!

6:45?: We actually get seated sooner than we expected.  The guy who

seats us is wearing those wooden flip-flops!  The place is gorgeous!  It

is small, but cozy, and you feel like you are transported to Japan,

because they are all yelling these things in Japanese like every 3

minutes, and its just awesome.

Food: The Ramen is to die for.  The soup was so good!  We got the Ippudo

Ramen and another with some special sauce.  I don't remember the

names, but it was SO good.  Seriously, we will be back, even if we have

to stand in line for hours.

←

apparently the gals up front are cute. The bartender is certainly cute. I'm not sure why people are fascinated by the yelling of Irrashaimase, this is pretty SOP at authentic places. Small and cozy? That places is humongous by ramen bar standards.

And yes, the ramen is awfully, awfully good