Jarasse in Neuilly

[kerriar]

Going on John's recommendation, we had dinner last Tuesday night in Michel Rostang's Jarasse on Ave Madrid in Neuilly. It was a foul night in Paris – start of the transport strike, raining cats and dogs with every driver seemingly in vindictive mood. Parisians at the wheel of a car have an endless capacity to advance into every open space they see and intersections, ronds-points, etc rapidly become clogged and tempers become frayed.

All slightly stressful but a call to the restaurant to say that we were running late brought a re-assuring response – "ne vous inquiète pas monsieur, votre table vous attend, venez a votre aise."

The place is not very large, probably 40 covers maximum, but relaxed, warm and discreet with good space between the tables – it has the easy confidence of a restaurant that knows exactly what it's doing. What followed was the kind of meal that confirms what Paris eating should be and why this remains one of the best places to eat in the world.

Oysters from Oleron were even better than the ones I had on the island a couple of months ago – fresh, unctuous and singing of the sea.

"Would you like some oursins with your oysters" – oh yes please, we'll try six of those and they were also superlative.

Main course for two was a bar de ligne (a kilo and a bit in weight), flambéd with fennel – presented at table, rapidly and expertly filleted and served with a simple beurre blanc and a bowl of purée. This was just a marvellous fish, perfectly cooked and devoid of unnecessary ornamentation – I eat a lot of fish but I'd have to go back to a year or two ago in Kolias in Athens to think of anything comparable. This was heaven

This is a place for fish and the wine list emphasises the whites – a bottle from the Languedoc (name not recorded but cost about €50) drank well.

Rostang's folk like to flambé things (discreetly of course) and I had a soufflé flambé au Grand Marnier which my old dad would have recognised – the other desert was a tarte aux pommes. Both were superb

Be warned however that this is an establishment where departing from the fixed menu and wandering around the carte is putting your credit card at risk. The bill stopped just short of €300 (no aperitif, one bottle of wine, no digestifs - ouff!). I'll go back but next time sticking to the €38 menu.

[John Talbott]

Be warned however that this is an establishment where departing from the fixed menu and wandering around the carte is putting your credit card at risk. The bill stopped just short of €300 (no aperitif, one bottle of wine, no digestifs - ouff!). I'll go back but next time sticking to the €38 menu.

←

That's what Colette and I do and safely avoid bankrupcy.

[Jmahl]

Philip apprenticed with Rostang in Paris and held him in the highest regard. Its were he learned true professionalism.

Glad you enjoyed your meal.

Perhaps the day will return when an American can enjoy a meal in France without sticker shock.

I'm holding my breath.

Jmahl