Mamajuana Cafe

[ewindels]

The above surtitle is the reaction I received from various friends, who were appalled at the idea of spending that amount any restaurant above 86th Street. (Mind you, said group of friends are generally appalled at the idea of spending that amount at any restaurant anywhere, but that's a whole different thread). It was beyond comprehension that anyone expend spend such an ungodly amount of money so far north of Manhattan, which I guess is associated with all-you-can-eat Chinese/Cuban or worse.

Being just a once-a-year visitor to this 'hood (and then usually only to shop at PJs, not really to eat), I can't comment on the socio-economic apppropriateness of this expenditure. I can say that, in my humble opinion, it was totally worth it. The place is not large, and once the cold weather has eliminated the option of sidewalk seating I'm not sure where people will sit (the interior space is pretty limited), but while the good weather holds this is a great visit. There being only two of us, we couldn't do much justice to the extensive and far ranging menu (see their web site here, though I don't think this is nearly as extensive as what we got at the table.) There's a large and (for this 'hood) impressive cocktail and wine list. We both went with mojitos. The house version, with tamarind, wasn't as quite as tart as the description would lead you to expect, and was easily outshone by the berry version my companion had, which rocked. The arepitas were delicious, two with queso fresco and chorizo, and one with a tangle of slow braised pulled meat. My companion's grilled salmon over yuca arepa and asparagus w/piquillo corn saffron pepper sauce, served with the "Mamajuana Paella", was luxurious and creamy (though I don't actually recall any asparagus). Prompted by the blurb in last week's Times, I undertook an order of the perquito, described by the Times as a "pork shoulder marinated in wine, bitter oranges and spices, then roasted for 10 hours. It’s big enough for a family."

Folks, they ain't kidding: this sucker could easily feed six and do them in. Must have been at least 10 lbs. of meat on the plate, not counting the bone, and all of it spectacularly delicious. And the skin was perfection: half crispy, half gooey fat. (I'm still eating the leftovers, four days later, and savoring every morsel). Not surprisingly, we couldn't face dessert, though the selections sounded pretty tempting.

Service was swift and polished, and if you're in the mood to enjoy the social parade on Dyckman Street (and what a parade it is), the outdoor seating on a mild early autumn night is terrific. Three drinks, one app and two entrees came to $52 a person with tax and tip. And yes, absolutely worth it.