TN: Aside

[Florida Jim]

2004 Tenuta delle Terre Nere, Etna Rosso Calderara Sottana:

Still not fully integrated, this has some grainy tannin and a distinct milk-chocolate covered cherry note – but that is not to imply that it is unattractive as the tannins are sweet and the cherry tone isn’t. Some very nice complexity here and the weight of a Burgundy; this is a character driven wine that you won’t confuse with other Italian reds. Nerello Moscalese is an indigenous variety to Sicily and this one is soundly done. 14% alcohol, imported by Michael Skurnik and about $30, full retail; I’d buy it again but look for a better price (they are out there).

(Aside: I have heard that Mt. Etna is the source of wines that are some of the most interesting currently being produced in Italy and I have to say, I think that’s entirely possible given the progress of this wine in my cellar and others I have had brief tastes of.)

2005 Grosset, Riesling Polish Hill:

With a salmon and rice salad I needed a dry, crisp white; this fit the bill. Stony and only somewhat closed (a bit of time in the glass helped a lot) but with a very clean, perfectly balanced, mouthwatering delivery that keeps it light on its feet, and, full flavors that are the essence of the variety. This is fine, albeit undeveloped, riesling. I don’t have enough experience with Clare Valley wines to say if it’s of its place but it doesn’t taste like Austria or Germany and the only Alsace maker it comes close to is Trimbach (which, IMO, isn’t a bad target to shoot at).

I suspect I’m too early to this but the screwcap closure makes me wonder if the maker has decided these are not for keeping. Don’t get me wrong; I love screwcaps – but I think twice when I see a producer screwcap a wine usually meant for extended aging – it makes me wonder if he thinks the wine would drink better younger.

13% alcohol, imported by Australian Premium Wine Collection and about $20 on sale; I’d buy it again.

(Aside: One of my favorite wines in the world is Clos St. Hune but the price is damnable, so I am always looking for something that comes close. After this bottle I won’t give up mortgaging my house to buy St. Hune but I also won’t be dismissing this bottling as just another pretender. ‘Pretty impressive for such a young wine (although, I have had other vintages of this that I thought less of.)

2005 Raymond Quenard, Mondeuse Chignin:

A lovely red Vin de Savoie; this is like the best cherry soda you ever had but bone dry; there’s a face powder element on the nose and palate and very light herb tones but this just screams red cherries; integrated, balanced, precise and pretty long with solid grip – still it maintains an almost weightless presence. ‘Really good with smoked Gouda. 12% alcohol, imported by Louis/Dressner and about $17; I’d buy it again.

(Aside: Jimmy like!)

Best, Jim

[primowino]

Jim,

As an obvious riesling fan I'd like your opinion on a bottle I have tucked away, a 2002 ZH Clos Hauserer. It has been pretty well stored through its life I think, when would you choose to drink this wine?

Thanks

[Florida Jim]

Jim,

As an obvious riesling fan I'd like your opinion on a bottle I have tucked away, a 2002 ZH Clos Hauserer.  It has been pretty well stored through its life I think, when would you choose to drink this wine?

Thanks

←

A very tough question and one better asked of those who buy and drink a lot of Zind-Humbrecht wines.

I am given to understand that 2002 was a good vintage in Alsace however, I know nothing of this specific wine.

Best, Jim

[Craig Camp]

I suspect I’m too early to this but the screwcap closure makes me wonder if the maker has decided these are not for keeping. Don’t get me wrong; I love screwcaps – but I think twice when I see a producer screwcap a wine usually meant for extended aging – it makes me wonder if he thinks the wine would drink better younger.

I think that not only will the wine age under screwcap, but remain fresher longer. I would not hesitate to age them.