Castello Banfi

[MarketStEl]

I'm working on pitching a story out of our Hospitality Management program to area food writers and thought I'd get some outside opinion before running it up the flagpole.

We have a couple of students who will be participating in an educational program at Castello Banfi, the Mariani family's estate vineyard in Montalcino, Italy.

I'm reviewing the materials the director of wine education puts together for the educators who will accompany the students, and this place looks like an outstanding operation, with a bunch of ISO certifications for quality (ISO 9001), environmental responsibility (ISO 9001.2000 and ISO 14001) and social responsibility and involvement in the community (SA 8000). The materials also claim that this family estate, assembled over several years beginning in the mid-1970s, has led to renewed interest in the wines of the Montalcino region.

The company this family owns got big by selling tons of Riunite to my generation, but it also imports Concha y Toro and Stonehaven, among other well regarded names, into the United States.

What I want to know is: Is the wine produced at Castella Banfi as good as their track record on responsible management appears to be? I've heard from some people around here that a visit to the estate is an unforgettable experience. Can anyone back this up?

[Brad Ballinger]

There are a number of issues at play here, the relationship between which, while existing, may not be 100% in sync.

You can run a top class production operation and put out wine that people don't like. You can also (per ISO standards) run a poor opertation and make wine that people love. I've neer been to Castello Banfi, but I have no reason to doubt th quality of their operation per the regulating agencies. And I also have no doubt about their role in the community -- although I'm not convenced that Banfi alone can claim responsibility for renewed interest in Montalcino wines. Nor am I convinced that Montalcino wines ever flew low enough below the radar that interest in them had to be "renewed."

I'm not a fan of their wines. But I'm just one person, and there are plenty of others who sing the praises of the wines. With the exception of their Brunello di Montalcino, to my taste, many of their wines are international in style. Indeed, they make wines from non-native grapes as well as native ones. I remember reading one comment on another wine forum web site where the poster wrote "I wasn't aware Banfi exported their wines into Italy." And this person was not referring to Stonehaven.

[JohnL]

Brunello's are relatively expensive wines.

Banfi is attempting to create/establish a brand, They make some high end Tuscan IGT wines like Summus etc.

These are fashionable lush oaky wines, a style that has broad appeal in the worldwide market. The wines are IMOP (and the opinion of many others) very well made examples of this type of wine. they would have to be to compete in a very competitive market.

Brunello has always had its fans here (and around the world) it was probably put on the map in no small part by Biondi Santi which I believe was the first or one of the first wines to carry the $100 a bottle price tag in this country.

I think Banfi is atempting to create Banfi as a luxury brand rather than promote Brunello wines (or Italian wines).

Interestingly, Riunite has been wildly successful yet it has not seemed to translate into sales of Lambrusco wines in general. Most people have no idea that there are many fine Lambruscos available here now and few are really aware that Riunite is a Lambrusco. My point being, the marketing of Banfi Brunello and their other wines is all about them (Banfi). They are certainly not trying to create or ride a brunello wave.

[Craig Camp]

Banfi is a great place for American's to visit as it was conceived by Americans, not Italians. Going there is more like going to Mondavi in Napa than going to an Italian winery. It is very, very slick, well run and a little Disney-like. Therefore Americans feel at home there. Most Italian wineries are not set up to receive tourists in such a way as they are more real working farms than tourist trap.

The wines are technically perfect modern-style Tuscan wines, which means I never drink them except for professional reasons.

[smorris291]

I'll second Craig's comments about Banfi as a place to visit...it's lovely, but you feel much more like you're in Napa (large tasting room, retail sales) than Tuscany. We did have a wonderful (albeit pricey) lunch in the trattoria there as well, where probably 3/4 of the diners were Americans.

[tdo-ca]

If I recall correctly, they were big NYC importers who bought into the Italian wine tradition.

I find their wines decent, but have numerous other favorites in every category in which they compete (and would concur that their QPR is a bit low).

[Brian]

Any visitor to Banfi should also include a visit to Biondi Santi in order to understand the different approaches to Brunello. Craig's description is right on the money - the banfi vineyards are vast (I think there are about 800 hectares under vine), and the winery is both enormous are extremely high tech. Some of the gleaming stainless steel vats hold more than a small grower's entire annual production. The wine is well made, but many criticise it as being a little soul-less.

By contrast, Biondi Santi is very proud of the traditional methods used, and produces a more characterful wine, though it's appeal may be a little more difficult to understand from the first mouthful.

[JohnL]

I would be careful when considering terms like traditional. it is simply not that easily defined in most cases.

Montalcino wines have really been evolving since the seventies (the nineteen seventies that is).

Many of the areas farmers abandoned the place and the land became relatively inexpensive. The notion, in general, of the small farmer making humble wines is a bit of a misconception--much of what these small farmers grew was often sent to large co-ops where the wine was actually made.

The Cinzano family moved into the area in the early seventies I believe, and then the Mariani's (Banfi).

There ensued an influx of wine makers like Gaja and Antinori and the Frescobaldi's among others.

There are now many "gleaming" large and very modern wineries in Italy. Stainless steel vats are possibly one of the most important innovations in wine making the world over--allowing for temperature controlled wine making.

Banfi makes one style of Brunello. There are other styles made as well. One's preference may be for one or the other (or all of them). as the French say, "vive la difference!"

[Craig Camp]

I would be careful when considering terms like traditional.

←

What fun would that be?

[JohnL]

I said

"I" would be careful.

I don't wanna ruin anyone's fun!

By the way---

Seems that Brunello may be helped by a really fine

2001 vintage. Most of the wines I have tasted (traditional and non)

are very very tasty!

Many are still around in wine shops here and are definitely worth trying.

[Stevarino]

I'm in Craig's Camp on this one (pun intended) Hi Craig.

"Read Chew Discuss"

I think its great that these students have this opportunity, and Banfi undoubtedly does a good job, but they need free advertisement about as badly as say, Olive Garden. After all, these are the guys that we should hold responsible for a generation of Americans that still put ice cubes in their wine.

They do a great job, otherwise they wouldn't be where they are. My frustration is that there are smaller producers out there that could use a plug in the press, far greater than Banfi. "

As far as the wine goes, the Brunello is pretty good stuff. I also like that pretty little bracchetto that they make. Pairs nicely with chocolate & raspberries.

[MarketStEl]

I'm in Craig's Camp on this one (pun intended) Hi Craig.

"Read Chew Discuss"

I think its great that these students have this opportunity, and Banfi undoubtedly does a good job, but they need free advertisement about as badly as say, Olive Garden. After all, these are the guys that we should hold responsible for a generation of Americans that still put ice cubes in their wine.

They do a great job, otherwise they wouldn't be where they are. My frustration is that there are smaller producers out there that could use a plug in the press, far greater than Banfi. "

As far as the wine goes, the Brunello is pretty good stuff. I also like that pretty little bracchetto that they make. Pairs nicely with chocolate & raspberries.

←

Needless to say, I'm more interested in promoting Widener's School of Hospitality Management than I am Banfi, but I appreciate your comment -- and all of the other feedback I've gotten on this thread. My basic assessment of what I've been told is that while I won't be doing the cause of great wine any great favors by touting our students' participation, I won't be doing it any real damage, either, and there are angles I can play up other than the sponsor, though of course I can't leave the sponsor out of the picture.

[MarketStEl]

Just wanted to repeat my "Thank You!" for all the feedback I've gotten in response to my initial question.

I sent the press release out to regional media plus selected industry trade publications yesterday. Banfi gets a fair bit of ink in it, but some of that ink represents a plug for our School of Hospitality Management.

The release is available on Widener's Web site.