TN: Mostly pinot

[Florida Jim]

2005 J.J. Christoffel, Riesling Kabinett Erdener Treppchen:

A little more than off-dry if you ask me but it has good acidity, decent minerality and lovely, floral fruit. Its fun to drink but only in small doses as I think the sweetness is a little more than the prädikat can bear. A.P. 2-602-041-003-06, 9% alcohol, imported by Michael Skurnik and price unknown.

2000 Hamacher, Pinot Noir:

Day one: very dark aromatics, slightly closed, some smoke scents; smoky and black fruited palate with glimpses of depth but little verve or juiciness; medium finish. Not it’s best showing but it does seem closed down.

Day two: still dark but more black raspberry than black hole and not as smoky; juicier fruit on the palate with a brightness that wasn’t there yesterday and a more open, generous palate displaying good depth and density; longer in the finish. What a difference a day makes!

Do not open this wine now. It needs a couple years to sort itself out but it has everything required or desired to be marvelous when it does reemerge. 13% alcohol and about $40 on release.

2004 Dom. Leroy, Bourgogne:

It’s hard to put into words what this wine delivers. There is immense character on the nose with an aged Burgundy smell that is both alluring and astonishingly complex; although not fully open on the palate, its deep, focused, character driven, balanced and nuanced; very long and layered. This bottling (a “domaine” in this vintage) contains grapes from Pommard "Vignots", Savigny "Narbantons", Volnay "Santentots", Clos Vougeot, Clos de la Roche and Corton-Renardes and none of those appellations will be bottled by themselves in 2004.

The most impressive young Burgundy I have tasted and one that shows both a youthful firmness and a mature aromatic profile. Memorable wine, to say the very least. About $70 on release, this is already selling for $100 or more. And here’s the kicker; it’s easily worth it!

1998 Lafarge, Bourgogne:

Another black hole type of wine on day one; a little fruit peeking through but mostly about structure. On day two, its what I’d asked for; solid black fruit with red fruit accents, some spice and a nice supple texture. Distinctly Burgundy and substantial. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Chelsea Ventures and about $15 on sale.

1999 Chevillon, Nuits-St.-Georges Les Pruliers:

The blackest of black holes; very firm and not giving much on either the nose or palate; structure to go a very long time, I’d say but opening this now was a mistake. About $42, on release.

Best, Jim

[Brad Ballinger]

2005 J.J. Christoffel, Riesling Kabinett Erdener Treppchen:

A little more than off-dry if you ask me but it has good acidity, decent minerality and lovely, floral fruit. Its fun to drink but only in small doses as I think the sweetness is a little more than the prädikat can bear. A.P. 2-602-041-003-06, 9% alcohol, imported by Michael Skurnik and price unknown.

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Emphasis mine.

Jim,

I'm wondering if Christoffel (and perhaps other producers) produced kabinetten that were really declassified spatlesen or auslesen. The 9% alcohol may be a clue. It wouldn't be the first time.

[Florida Jim]

I'm wondering if Christoffel (and perhaps other producers) produced kabinetten that were really declassified spatlesen or auslesen.  The 9% alcohol may be a clue.  It wouldn't be the first time.

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I talked to David Bueker about it (heaven knows he has more German wine than anyone else in the U.S.) and he says just wait 5 years to get the baby fat off of it. But he too thinks the declass is the reason it shows as it does today.

Best, Jim

[artisanbaker]

Jim,

Thanks for the Leroy note. I jumped on some 04 Vosne Romanee on closeout for a "good" price but I hear they're shut down so I'll wait a bit. Sounds like I'll have to keep my eyes peeled for the Bourgogne...if you say it's worth $70 then I take note!

Rob