I Bologna

[Peter Rodgers]

On a recent quick trip to the Langhe, we had a chance to return to I Bologna in Rochetta Tanaro. A recent renovation has done wonders for the place. There is a new dining room, a walk-in wine cellar where, with help from the proprietor, one can explore and then chose a bottle from the extraordinary collection of Baberas, Barolos and Barbarescos, new bathrooms (much needed) and a modern kitchen. The warm welcome and the menu remain the same. We enjoyed, among other items, a perfect vitello tonnato, classic agnolotti al plin, and excellent lamb chops.

We also managed stops at Il Centro in Priocca (very good, but not our best recent meal) and an extraordinary lunch at Da Renzo in Cervere. Not much beats Da Renzo's cheese filled ravioli and perfect suckling pig.

[pedalaforte]

Thanks, Peter, for the update. We are thinking about I Bologna when we visit in November. That place has always fascinated me, and this time we are staying closer to where it is. It might be the one "big bucks" place we hit. I understan that prices are reasonable, especially for what you get.

The cellar sounds fascinating. Can you purchase wines to take home, or is this not the kind of place that does that? That is, would we be better off just buying from an enoteca?

Thanks. Cheers.

[Peter Rodgers]

The price of a meal is 50 Euros per person, including modest wines chosen by the owner (say an Arneis followed by a Dolcetto). If you dig into the cellar and opt for a Barolo or Barbaresco, he will add 30-50 Euros to the bill. Still a steal compared to retail prices, even in Italy. I don't think he sells from the cellar, but he has been known to hand us a bottle of wine as a parting gift. Enjoy.

P.S. Keep in mind that I Bologna does not take credit cards.

[robert brown]

Peter, thanks for the update. I have only been to I Bologna once and enjoyed it very much. One should add that the Bologna here is the late wine man Giacomo's brother. A visit to the restaurant gets you a private and thorough visit through the winery.

As for Renzo, I can't think of any better restaurant in Piemonte. At truffle time, it's extraordinary and the one that I make a point of visiting on all fall trips. Last year, as a matter of fact, it was the only one.

I have had one great meal followed by a disastrous meal at Centro. You seem to have had one somewhere in between. Dare I try to go again?

[Peter Rodgers]

Enrico Cordero is a man of great commitment and integrity. This was the first meal in five or so that did not sing to me. I will certainly return. If you get there beforehand, let us know how you fared.

As for Renzo, I absolutely agree that it should be ranked among the best in the region. Interestingly, however, we like it there a great deal more at lunch than at dinner.

[Bill Klapp]

Peter, I was so surprised by the report on Il Centro, whose star has been continually on the rise over the past several years since Enrico's wife replaced his mother in the kitchen that I dispatched my ex, her husband and a friend there for dinner this week! I have to conclude that you must have hit a rare off-night or a combination of dishes that didn't suit for some reason. All three said that their meal was sheer perfection, especially the fried acacia blossoms drizzled with acacia honey!

[Peter Rodgers]

As noted earlier, we won't give up on Il Centro. Any new restaurant suggestions from your end?