WTN: Potel Volnay and Forteto Loazzolo

[Brad Ballinger]

Dinner with the neighbors...

1999 Nicolas Potel "Clos des Angles," Volnay Premier Cru. I may be wrong about this, but this may have been the last vintage of Clos des Angles from Nicolas Potel. But maybe there was a 2000 as well. My mind is a bit fuzzy on that. This particular wine wnet down very easy with Coq au Vin. There was enough structure interms of tannin and acidity to work with the stew, and the flavor profile leaned more toward fruit than earth/meat/leather. Walked the line well between lean and fat. The Burgundies I've had from Potel have not been ones to blow me away. Nor have they been ones to make me say "never again." This one continued that trend.

2000 Forteto della Luja Loazzolo. I could add "moscato passito" and/or "vendemmia tardiva" to the "title" of the wine, but that would be redundant on more than one account. The Loazzolo DOC (in Piedmont) is a tiny DOC where all the wines are moscato passito vendemmia tardiva wines. Forteto della Luja is my favorite producer of these wines. Reading the spiraling label on the bottle can cause vertigo, but it makes the wine easily recognizeable. This wine is so lip-smacking and velvety smooth. Floral and orange zest aromas. Enough acidity to be "fresh" and not flabby or cloying. And juicy juicy juicy. Went well with grilled pound cake and berries.

[wkl]

brad- i've been meaning to post some notes on forteto della luja. i actually visited the winery in october last year. i came home with moscato, moscato passito, and a passito made from a red grape that escapes me right now. a lovely blend of barbera and pinot noir is also produced called il grieve (sp?).

this is a tiny winery in, i believe, the smallest doc in italy. (smallest in actual size or production, i can't remember.)

the property has been in the same family for 3 generations and gianni, the olderst son, is the winemaker. he was most gracious when we visited. it was actually one of the best winery visits i have ever had. learned lots about making passito, the loazzolo doc, the local landscape, etc.

it is a beautifal area of piedmont, i think actually part of the monferrato. hard to find , but well worth a visit if your ever in loazzolo.

eta: not all the wines produced are vendemmia tardiva. the sparkling moscato is delicious, less effervescent than any moscato i've had. i could be wrong but the loazzolo region produces more sparkling moscato than any other wine.

Edited April 17, 2007 by wkl (log)

[Brad Ballinger]

eta: not all the wines produced are vendemmia tardiva. the sparkling moscato is delicious, less effervescent than any moscato i've had. i could be wrong but the loazzolo region produces more sparkling moscato than any other wine.

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I envy your trip. the only producers I've visited in Ital have been in Campania. They were worthwhile visits, but your visit seemed like it was very good.

Regarding what I've quoted from your post above, I believe Loazzolo DOC wines are 100% moscato passito by law. But perhaps I'm mistaken. The other wines produced by Forteto della Luja may carry a different designation. For example thier brachetto passito "Pian de Sogni" is a Piemonte IGT wine. BTW, I've had that wine, and it is also very good. They also make a Moscato d'Asti, which is their sparkling wine, and a separate DOCG altogether. I've not had the pleasure of tasting that wine, though.

[wkl]

"brachetto passito "Pian de Sogni" is a Piemonte IGT wine."

thanks. that is the red passito i was referring to.

i'll check the info i brought back from the winery to see if the other wines, especially the moscato d'asti, are loazzolo doc designated.

btw, the goat on the label, represents the one goat gianni's grandfather allowed his wife to keep when he decided to switch from raising goats to grapes. she wasn't thrilled about the switch in farming apparantly.

other frateto della luja trivia: gianni's father is a well respected wine consultant throughout italy.

the barbera/pinot noir blend is a traditional blend for the area. (a suprise to me) it actually ages quite gracefully.

the properties in loazzolo are at the top of some hairy switchbacks that climb up some impressive inclines.

the original, kinda small house, acts as the winery. lotsa barrels of passito in the dirt floor basement waiting to be bottled.

the spiral label was designed by his grandfather and has been in use for some time. there was a reason for the design but i can't recall it now.