Bin 8945

[robert40]

Certainly egullet cannot be responsible for the content of other sites.

[IrishCream]

Carolyn, thanks so much for your reviews of Bin. Makes me want to jump on a plane to LA! One thing I am curious about is that Epoisses was on all 3 of your cheese plates. I was under the impression it was a seasonal cheese? No?

[Carolyn Tillie]

Carolyn, thanks so much for your reviews of Bin.  Makes me want to jump on a plane to LA!  One thing I am curious about is that Epoisses was on all 3 of your cheese plates.  I was under the impression it was a seasonal cheese?  No?

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Apparently, yes. But based on this site it looks as though it has been served during optimal months.

[samgiovese]

We spent $300 per couple ,which includes wine .I beleive this is way too high for this kind of a place

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Not that I care, but on O/A, you said you spent $400. per couple!

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PLease ,note that i corrected the error immediately.

What amaze's me is the # of people coming to the defense of Bin 8945.

Trying to say something negative about my opinion.

I just shared my experince as i have done with many other restaurants all over the world.

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I did not see your correction, and I'm sorry you thought I was being negative about your review. I was merely pointing out an inconsistency, which I would have done no matter what your review reflected. Perhaps you were overly-sensitive because so many others were critical of your post. I was not one of them.

[russkar]

We spent $300 per couple ,which includes wine .I beleive this is way too high for this kind of a place

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Not that I care, but on O/A, you said you spent $400. per couple!

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PLease ,note that i corrected the error immediately.

What amaze's me is the # of people coming to the defense of Bin 8945.

Trying to say something negative about my opinion.

I just shared my experince as i have done with many other restaurants all over the world.

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I did not see your correction, and I'm sorry you thought I was being negative about your review. I was merely pointing out an inconsistency, which I would have done no matter what your review reflected. Perhaps you were overly-sensitive because so many others were critical of your post. I was not one of them.

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WELL SAID!!!

[Carolyn Tillie]

Another week of business in Los Angeles would not be complete without a visit to my favorite restaurant. This particular dining experience was not for me, however. Needing to impress my A+ Number One Client, I e-mailed David a week or two prior and asked him to pull out the stops; this wasn't just for me that I was looking for an impressive evening - and an impressive evening it was. "T" from New York and "C" from San Diego were my guests and I walked in unsure if this type of extended meal would go over well with them. I believe they were quite pleased. Apologies for the mediocre (and missing!) pictures; I was using the iPhone with limited light and quite often, we were so excited with what was being served, I just plain forgot to take the picture.

1. Malpeque oyster shooter with Vodka gelée and Tabasco - served with Kankuno Junmai Daiginjo Sake. Served on a block of ancient salt, this was a surprisingly spicy start. Having a small mouthful with Tabasco could potentially burn the palate for the rest of the evening. The sake, however, completely countered that spice working as a fire extinguisher and heightener to the unctuous oyster.

2. Hamachi with uni, brown rice foam, and caviar - served with 2003 Deutz Rosé. The first of several missed photo ops... The yellowtail was prepared tataki-style with a quick sear, the elegance of this dish was the umami of the brown rice foam; hardly overpowering but just enough to provide an earthy base to round out the flavors.

3. Blue corn red snapper miniature tacos with avocado - served with Vin d'alsace Riesling. Knowing how much food was still to be served, I jokingly complained that they didn't need to serve *three* tacos. Two would have been more than enough for me but David remembered how much I liked these and "T" chuckled that having three was just fine for him as he quickly cleaned his plate.

4. Tableside-grilled sea bass served with quail egg and haricot vert - served with 1995 Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru. There are those occasions where a few, simple, unadorned ingredients shine more spectacularly than complicated concoctions. This is one of those occasions. Much of the delight is not only the simplicity of the dish but the wine pairing, which provided a stunning richness of complexity in the glass.

5. Duck fat-fried frogs legs with a light curry of Moroccan spices - served with Hitachino Nest White Ale. Words like "phenomenal" started getting expressed by my guests. You can see from the photograph that this one almost got missed. I adore the dish as a testament to Chef Michael Bryant's brilliance in combining seemingly unusual ingredients and extending those ingredients into the surreal with flavors like curry.

6. Alligator Pad Thai with peanut and XO sauces, soy, cilantro, and bean sprouts - served with 2004 Aile d'Argent Chateau Mouton Rothschild. Okay, that comment I just made about Chef Michael combining remarkable ingredients reached a moment of transcendence in this dish. This was a new dish which completely astonished me and everyone at the table. The fact that it was paired with a white Burgundy of stunning quality didn't harm its culinary impact.

7. Foie gras cannoli with prune marmalade and bacon foam - served with 2000 Domaine Pietri-Geraud Banyuls. If you read through my previous posts here on Bin 8945, one can easily see that I have had some complaints about each of the foie dishes I have been served, going back to the horrific Eggo Waffle concoction (which, I believe, was removed from the menu after I voiced my opinion). This was the first occasion where I could find no fault. I complain often that most foie dishes are too sweet but it was the addition of bacon foam in this course which leveled the sweetness of the prune. There is also the base adoration of fried foods and having the juxtaposition of the crisp cannoli wrapper with the rich foie certainly enhanced the dish. A show-stopper as attested to the fact that all three of us literally licked our plates clean.

8. Roast duck breast with squab jus, accompanied with miniature turnips, carrots, and mushrooms - served with 1998 Clos Vougeot. Apologies for the lack of a picture on this course but it is hard to contain my enthusiasm when I am served duck. This was a very rich dish and probably my one and only complaint on the wine pairing for the evening. In this case, the stunning '98 Clos Vougeot was too subtle and well-integrated to stand up to the heft of the duck and sauce. Either less salt could have been used in the preparation to maintain this particular pairing, or a newer Rhone wine (even a California Syrah) with bigger fruit is needed to stand up next to the richness of the dish. In discussing the pairing with my guests, the brilliance and elegance of the wine was easily demonstrated after we finished the duck and the wine was re-tasted alongside some unadorned bread. It really is an amazing bottle which deserves a more reserved, subtle preparation.

9. Filet mignon with duck fat-fried onion ring and haricot vert - served with 2000 Chateau La Lagune Haut-Medoc. I am a huge onion ring fan and anything savory fried in duck fat elevates its potential. It is taking a bite of the onion ring alongside the perfectly-grilled filet and following it with the wine is comforting. Having already had haricot vert with the sea bass, this was the first time I had wished for a different green vegetable of some sort; wilted chard or miniature brussels sprouts for example -- something with a slight acidic bite to counter the richness of the meat and fried onion and give it a spark.

10. Surf & Turf - hangar steak and scallop served atop duck fat-fries and topped with chorizo foam - served with 1989 Barolo Rocche de Manzoni. Well, I complained about having been served haricot vert twice in a very extensive meal, but far be it for me to complain about having too many duck fat-fried anything. I believe it was during my first visit that I criticized the Surf & Turf as being rather pedestrian. This new offering was another show-stopper. The dish was composed in such a way to encourage the diner to eat the combination of meat and fish together instead of that bite of steak and then that bite of lobster, etc... There was only a few bites but this was my favorite of the meat courses this evening.

11. Beef short ribs with potato purée, Okinawan turnips, and sweet potato - served with 1999 Ridge Monte Bello. Getting a little meat overload, I could have skipped this course. I like short ribs, but rarely bother ordering them in restaurants. There are few ways to prepare it to be inspiration and is, instead, just shredded, flavorful meat that doesn't really lend itself to being anything other than good meat which can be served with a good starch.

12. Lamb with mint foam - served with 2005 Roc d'Anglade Vin de Pays du Gard. Yet another missed photo oppurtunity. Shocked to be served yet another meat course, there was a brief thought to wave this dish off and thrilled that I did not. The lamb was immensely tender and perfectly seared. The addition of the mint foam complemented with this wine produced rounds of ooohs and aaahs on an unexpected level. Much of the brilliance of this course was the wine; initial nose of blackberry and boysenberry, a deep core of earthy thyme and fresh sage, finishing with black licorice and olive oil. Stunning combination and dish.

13. Cheeses; Taleggio, Clara a raw goat's milk from Spain, and Epoisses - served with 2004 Charles Schleret Sylvaner. I didn't bother photographing this as it is the same serving as in previous entries. The wine pairing, however, was different and delightful. I loved that the Sylvaner was bright and crisp with a hint of sweetness instead of cloyingly sweet as is often the case with cheese courses.

14. Duck fat-fried beignets with chocolate sauce - served with Mandarine Napoléon. The way to this girl's heart is easily with fried dough and the end of a perfect eating ensued. I had never had the Mandarine Napoléon which was far more rich and complex than Grand Marnier, a similarly-flavored digestif.

I love the unpretentiousness of Bin and wish there was something similar in San Francisco. Coi is probably the closest insofar as adventurousness in ingredients is concerned, but for such an extensive meal, I think one would have to sit in Coi's dining room instead of its lounge and I prefer the casualness of this locale.

[rjwong]

Delicious ... simply delicious

[Bueno]

Following in Carolyn's very capable footsteps, I finally got around to tuning my chicken scratch notes in to something that resembles a review of my meal at Bin 8945.

This place, having only been open not a year, is impressing. There have been some hiccups with a chef change already, and a few over-composed dishes, but generally speaking, the restaurant has set itself up to be noticed. And people are noticing - including me. Recent mentions in Gourmet magazine, and a continuous flow of some of the nations best guest chefs (Chef Ludovic Lefebvre, Chef Michel Richard, etc.) cooking in the kitchen combine with Executive Chef Mike Bryant's food and David Haskell's service program have pushed Bin into the Hollywood lights, and it's shining. So let's get on with it...

Amuse - Egg Sushi.

Actually the “egg yolk” was an orange gastrique atop cream cheese and encircled with rice. Very playful and a great way to kick things off.

Lobster Ceviche, Avocado, Salt-Block

I really like the very subtle saltiness that using a salt block adds to a dish. It's similar to a light sprinkling of fleur de sel to finish a dish, but it's at the base of the palate as opposed to the top. Believe me, it makes a difference. I generally am a fan of these preparations, and this was no exception. The ceviche was concise, and not muddled at all -- as ceviches can often be. Nicely refined.

Blue Corn Tacos, Red Snapper Ceviche, House-made Guacamole, Cumin Crema

This dish was a bit sloppy for me. Plus, another ceviche? The home-made guac was phenomenal, though. I could've eaten a huge bowl of that with some fresh tortilla chips all night long. I wonder if they do takeout for the NBA season?

Potato-Cased Diver Scallop, Creme Fraiche, Soft-Poached Egg, American caviar

... and the glamour shot:

Favourite dish of the evening, and something I think that could become a signature of theres. The egg was cooked perfectly and stood up nicely to the texture of the potato tube (which by the way must be quite labour-intensive). It's fun, and delicious. Being amusing or whimsical is a common theme that runs throughout Chef Bryant's cuisine, and it really makes for an exciting experience. The pop of the caviar capped off the excitement. Also nice to see they are using American caviar and paying mind to the extinction issues surrounding fishy eggs from overseas.

Pacific Striped Sea Bass, Chervil Tapenade, Potato Gnocchi, Creamed Corn

The creamed corn functioned as the sauce for the dish, and I'm not certain that was the best way to take this. The bass was cooked to perfection and the chervil tapenade should be jarred and sold throughout the nation, but the gnocchi were a bit cloying and the "sauce" highlighted that. I think the gnocchi element should be rethought, and the sauce maybe a sweet corn beurre blanc instead.

Caramelized Plaintain, Seared Foie Gras, House-made Duck Proscuitto

Holy shit. This was some amazing foie. And that prosciutto! Are we sure this chef isn't Italian? That is some delicious salumi. Duck prosciutto has since become something I'm trying to find at every opportunity I can. It's just not something I'd eaten before and it blew me away. A+ dish.

Molasses Glazed Monkfish, Celeriac Puree, Pickled Fennel, Arugula Oil

Very tasty indeed. It reminds me of Nobu's miso cod in many respects. The sweetness against that buttery monkfish flesch is awesome. I also really enjoyed the brightness of the pickled fennel. And that arugula oil is really focused! It really perks everything up and adds excitement (there we go again!).

Sliced Duck Breast, Duck Rillette, Fava Beans, Prune Gastrique

This dish suffered from being a bit too meaty and rich. It needed some brightness both in terms of flavour, and on the plate. It looks sorta like a rainy day on a plate. And unfortunately, it tasted somewhat similar. I'd really like to see the prune gastrique switched for something more Asian in concept. Possibly ponzu. Maybe a shiso element. I'm not sure, but I think it has potential.

Beef Filet, English Peas, Applewood-smoked Bacon, Duck Fat Onion Ring

A duck fat onion ring? How on earth could that be anything but delicious? It couldn't. That'd send the world into some form of warped reality where things like Taco Bell send gourmands swooning, and things like chunks of toros have us turning up our noses. It just wouldn't be a world I'd want to be a part of. Thankfully, things aren't like that. Anyway... the filet was of great quality and who doesn't love bacon? This was entirely a guilt-laden finally and I loved every single second. I'll have a second helping of the guilt, please!

A palate cleanser of Yuzu granitee finished us off.

At this point we were supposed to start a few desert courses, cheese, mignardise, etc... OY! We were far too stuffed to carry on for the rest of this carpet ride, though. Phew!

Needless to say, we ate often and we ate well. Like any restaurant, Bin 8945 has its ups and downs. Thankfully, the majority are ups. Way-ups! [That's where the party is! ... sorry] The chef is driven as hell, but sometimes loses his focus and over complicates things. Simplicity is sometimes best, Hollywood grasshoppa. I think this will surely come with time. There certainly isn't a lack of talent in that kitchen.

Service was absolutely spot-on. Flawless, I feel comfortable saying. David truly knows his wines. And that cellar! MY GOD! That is a WORLD CLASS wine cellar. For a 20 seat restaurant, it is utterly ridiculous (but in a very good way). And it's like David has spent time swimming in each and every bottle. Not literally, because that'd be gross and he'd have some serious issues with the health department, but figuratively of course. He's a true schmooze, yet a consummate professional. A truly joyful service.

This meal wasn't cheap. However, it was completely NOT unreasonable. I've paid a lot more for far inferior meals. And in terms of the quality and quantity of cuisine I was served, I consider it to be a good value. In fact, a better value than most fine dining experience these days.

I will not hesitate to return to Bin 8945 when I'm back in LA next time. And I plan to tell everyone that'll listen that they should also check out one of Hollywood's newest and brightest stars.

Mui Bueno!

A-

[AlexNoir]

Great report, Bueno!

I just realized that Bin serves every course on the same shaped plates...hmmm, interesting.

[Bueno]

Thank you Alex!

I believe I was once told it was decided to be that way on purpose so that to not take away from the focus of the food and wine with the extra frills that once might associate with a "fine" meal (like strange utensils, bizarre plates, wine glasses that don't look like wine glasses, and things that squirt air/gas/liquid in or at you). I'm not 100% certain on that, though.

Cheers!

[jsmeeker]

was your meal a standard tasting menu offering or something special you had requested?

[Carolyn Tillie]

J.S. - it is pretty standard when you order the "full" tasting, although the menu has changed almost every time I've been. I have never ordered anything different than just letting Chef Michael run loose and surprise me, but it certainly helps to be open minded. One of my guests was surprised by both the frog legs and the alligator but was a trooper in trying (and thoroughly enjoying!) both.

[Bueno]

was your meal a standard tasting menu offering or something special you had requested?

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I just mentioned that I was very enthusiastic about fine cuisine and would love to have the chef "just cook" for me. I was charged for a full tasting, and by comparing with others, it seems this is more or less typical!

However, as Carolyn mentioned, the menu changes very frequently, but I've found that just letting the chef send out what tickles his fancy is that you'll end up eating extremely well. There is a lot of talent in that kitchen!

[jsmeeker]

cool. thanks.

are the tasting menus available at the bar? If I went, it would likely be solo. Also, would he "run loose" with any of the smaller menus? A full tasting might be a little over the top for a solo diner. Maybe.

[Carolyn Tillie]

cool. thanks.

are the tasting menus available at the bar? If I went, it would likely be solo.  Also, would he "run loose" with any of the smaller menus? A full tasting might be a little over the top for a solo diner. Maybe.

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According to the website, they do a 5-course tasting for $78, and 7-course for $88. I've always gone for the full tasting at $100 and been served more than 10 courses. And I have sat at the bar quite comfortably. You tell them how much you can eat, how much you care to spend, and I'm sure they'll accommodate you!

[Carolyn Tillie]

Since it is unlikely I will be heading to Los Angeles in the next few weeks, I'll have to live with the great memories of my few visits to Bin since it looks as though it will be going away.... <sniff>

[jsmeeker]

Since it is unlikely I will be heading to Los Angeles in the next few weeks, I'll have to live with the great memories of my few visits to Bin since it looks as though it will be going away....  <sniff>

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Bummer.. I never got a chance to go.. I'll be back in L.A. January 7th.. Not sure if it will still be there? Or even if it was, I may still not have time to go.