Thanks everyone - very insightful. Now I have also heard that Jose Jose & Compostela are better than Ajili Mojili - anyone beg to differ? Has anyone tried Agua Viva yet? Also has anyone got more insight on travelling 30 mins out of San Juan to Guavate where they roast pigs on a spit and dance the salsa??? Sounds like it cannot be missed, but would be very interested in others' opinions. Cheers