Andre

I thought this was made from "uve fragole" which are dessert grapes that (naturally) taste of strawberry. Fragolino is indeed a native American grape that was planted in Italy during the phylloxera period and stuck in a few places. In Italy it produces the same sickly, cloying sweet wine native grapes produce in the USA. It is illegal to export or re-plant in all, but a few narrowly defined areas. The high points of this variety in Italy is a nasty, and very cheap frizzante (sparkling) wine or a grappa which can be quite good, but potentially dangerous spirit very high in methanol in the hands of less careful distillers. Thanks for the enlightenment. The sweet red Fragolino I had wa a concentrated wild strawberry syrup Frizante. Now I could have sworn it had also some wine in it....

Even in the holly wine land of Italy you may find flavoured wines like Fragolino. The more wine professionals the less we have to worry about silly beverages like that.

100 $ bottle of wine ? I am afraid so. For the first time, An Israeli wine will be selling for 100$ on release. On a wine tasting last Thursday, Winemaker Itsik Zauberman og the Zauberman garage winery, displayed his new Cabernet Sauvignon, Zauberman 2001. Now check this: The wine is a concentrated 15.6% alcohol monster. Following the Amarone idea, the grapes were dried [ using a cooling proces ] and concentrated. the 2003 seems a fruit bomb expressing the year better. Hardly an every day wine in terms of price and concentration. The most expensive wine sold till now is the Golan Heights Katzerin 1996 apx 50$ on release in Israel. The Zauberman Cab 2001 is due to be released in a month.

Fermentation in cold temperatures may lead to the sensation that you felt. The colder=longer fermentation process releases CO2 and although the procedure may be over, some tiny bubbles might be fealt on the tip or front of your tongue after the bottling. You will note that an open in the glass they tend to disapear after 10 minutes or so. They may be common to cold climate young white wines.

Mouthwatering and thorough. I have tasted several producers from that area noteably Rinaldi and Vietti Marchetti's wines are on my "must get" list. Thank you both very much.

Whatever reason . I agree with the editor. Gaja wine tatings had been somehow disapointing in terms of name and price. Gaja's outstanding and consistant marketing ability had driven him to where he been so far. I don't doubt his Gaja and Ray Chardonnay as being massive nor am I against his new moves with the so called cheaper wines, yet, far from being first choice in terms of what Barolo and Barbaresco should stand for. Bottom line: lacks the finess great wines should contain and too commercial.

Andre, Many years ago, I was told by André Gagey (the President of Louis Jadot), "Too much oak in a wine is llike too much makeup on a woman". Mark, I prefer my women with no make-up at all Although I do understand that some have no choice but use it

It happened naturally only once and it came out in thje form of Sauvignon Blanc Yarden Late Harvest by the Golan Heights winery. If I am not mistaken, the winemaker at the time was Andrew Star. After several years in the bottle the wine developed beyond expectations from a rather simple med.-sweet simple version to a rather complex, smooth mildly sweet wine that was indeed a pleasure to drink. Another time I was not completely sure of is Wine maker Gil Shatsberg, on his return from his studies at Davis, managed to come up with a small quantity of Semillion Late Harvest that was thought to be Botrytis but ea not. As far as I can remember it was a 1998 vintage. Shatsberg, who worked for Carmel at the time is currently the winemaker of Amphora. Now the Golan Heights, in a joint venture [sponsering the research] with the University of Tel-Aviv managed to cultivate the Noble Rot and came out with their new experimental version last year. Also there is the Heightswine - the GH version of Ice Wine. Back to your question. Noble Rot affected vines in Israel only once naturally and it was the SB Yarden 1988.

Hi Andrea, The reason for that is fairly simple. Many of the winemakers in Israel are relatively young and mostly had studied in Adelaide and Davis. Now they have a huge responsibility on their shoulders and that responsibility is partially solved by the oak. Many of the grapes they use are also from fairly young vines so there is little hope for full bodied balanced reds currently. The public is also quite new at this game. Newcomers search for the familiar and the oak provides that kind of familiarity. The oak provides longer aging ability with somehow steady familiar flavors so those who buy their little concentrated wines don't feel that their money had gone down the drain. Now the critic forms another problematic issue. Show me one critic who will highly grade unoaked wines - not likely I am afraid. Robert Parker Jr. and the gang drove the finest winemakers into new oak barrels sometimes especially prepared for his highness in order to get that higher mark. New winemakers and wineries desprately need the high grades. People are less interested in the fine palate of Jancis Robinson and are much more into Parker. As much as it is depressing sometimes, it is facinating how history repeats itself.

Following a request here is some info about the new Yatir winery. Yatir Israel’s largest winery, Carmel, is doing its best to gain control of the long lost Israeli wine market. The new CEO David Ziv is doing all the necessary steps in the right direction. The new joint venture between Carmel and the grape growers at Yatir 50% shares to each , had lead to this new 500,000 bottle capacity venture. Although a desert climate, the high altitude allows cooler temperatures in summer allowing the grapes to maintain some of the acidity namely at the very cold nights. A heavily invested modern winery headed by the young winemaker Eran Goldwasser just came out with their first wines: It seems they have a Sauvignon Blanc that is dominated by oak [oak fermented] to a level that leaves little if any characteristics of the grape variety. More of a Fumee’ type wine that is medium bodied with a massive oaky presence. The Red Yatir that had been released is a fairly young wine, dominated by tannins and new French oak. This is a medium bodied wine that will open up in a year or so yet has little depth or concentration to show a promising development of fruit or balance. The wine is made for the high -end market selling a little over 30$ in Israel. Prices should be the same in the U.S. Kosher.

The question is very complex so I may answer on several levels. Positve: 1. 100$ bottle wines have an existing niche that needs to be filled one way or the other. 2. These are usually far from every day wines in terms of character and complexity - with a 100$ price tag they may earn more respect in the mass market. 3. This may promote the image of wine as a whole - Is this the best of what the famous wine world has to offer? So let's give it a proper price tag. 4. Like any other item in the market there should be a relationship between price and expectations. Against: 1. Overpriced wines is lead by short term thinking in relation to daily wine consumption. 2.High prices may result in unsold stocks - a growing phenomena with little you can do about it but sell under a dif. label or clean-skin. 3. This may hurt the image of a winery as a value for money wine producer. 4. This may aggrivate number 1 : the customer who may decide he is not willing to spend that kind of money. 5. Newcomers may not be able to play with the big boys and it is a cruel world out there.

A brilliant move though far from being my cup of tea. Looks like Jr. is heading his father's way in terms of rebellion against tradition. I might keep those in mind when I buy my first limousine...

In addition to kir, there are a lot of wine based aperitif drinks, some of which use spirits such as brandy. I guess we all played around with the stuff but to have the word "aperitif" written on a cognac label ? Looks like this region is coming out of the closet.

How about Cognac ? I was in a wine-tasting this morning and at the end an importer pulls out a bottle of Cognac Charpentry VS Seduction and on the side of the label "Aperitif Cognac" was specified. The Cognac was fruity, light bodied with a rather sharp finish. Probably designed for mixing. I knew about Aperitifs like cognac with Tonic or Ginger ale mostly intended for the Japanese market but to see that in Europe,,,wow!

Just in case you are in a bad mood, here is a couple of remedies: CÔTE-RÔTIE "Château d 'Ampuis" One of the flag ships of Guigal grapes taken from very old vines from six different vineyards: La Garde “Côte Blonde " Le Clos ‘Côte Blonde " La Grande Plantée " Côte Blonde " La Pommière " Côte Brune " Le Pavillon Rouge " Côte Brune " Le Moulin " Côte Brune " Wines are agred apx. 36 months in oak. The 1995 is 100% Syrah while the 97 might contain a very small percentage of viognier. Chateau d’Ampuis Cote-Rotie, E.Guigal 1995 Deep red, moving from very dark to brick red towards the rim. Takes several minutes to open up in the glass revealing a massive nose of dark red fruits, herbs, cedar wood and a mildly peppery finish. The mouth reveals plenty of soft chewy tannins, balanced acidity with a subtle pepper and allspice finish. The wine develops in the mouth to reveal dried fruits, tobacco, ,cedar wood, dark chocolate with a long smooth spicy finish. This mouth filling wine does not need any food and the tasting proceeded until the bottle was over. Thrilling but at its peak – no further cellaring recommended although the producer recommends 20 years. Tasted February 13th, 2004. Chateau d’Ampuis, Cote-Rotie. E.Guigal 1997. Dark intense deep color towards a lighter red at the rim. The wine started to open up after 5-6 minutes in the Bordeaux glass. An extremely appealing perfectly balanced nose shifting from fresh raspberries and blueberries to toasted wood, grilled sausages and some cat wee-wee. In the mouth the wine was smooth, chewy and full-bodied with an exciting balance between the tannins, flavors and acidity. Full bodied and extremely appealing. 20 minute later the nose projected concentrated red berry syrup, sweet molasses, dried apricots and prunes with well situated and perfectly balanced oak in the back. At this stage the nose resembled a top quality hot climate ripe cabernet Sauvignon. The oake and spiciness became more dominant in the mouth and sweet berries complimented this breath -taking picture. The wine continued to evolve for as long as the bottle was enjoyed. One of the best full-bodied Cote-du-Rhones to be enjoyed now. Drink now – 2007.

Eliaz Binyamina was consudered amongst the worst wineries in Israel. With foreign investments coming in [Mr. Lerner], new wines are showing a big improvement and now they may be considred of avarage quality. The new winemaker Sason Ben-Aharon, had been around for a while assisting different wineries. He is a very nice gentelman and is very aware of the importance of quality grapes. Sason had been in Benyamina [Eliaz] for three years. 2002 he was assisting a less talented Amram Soratsky and serving as chief winemaker in the last two years. He makes his own wines and advices other wineries, doing a good job so far. The investment came in terms of new equipment new french oak and a new attitude towards the vine. I will happily update on their newly released wines the moment I will translate the local labels to what is displayes in the US market, if requested.

WTN:Barolo Bussia Prunotto 1993 Brick red with brownish hints at the rim. The nose needs several minutes to open up in the glass starting with plenty of aged oak bouquet and developing into a beautifully balanced black and red cherry aroma, tobacco, nutmeg, sour forest berries and a mildly dusty aroma hovering this very deep wine. Very impressive on the entry, mouth filling and tasty . Plenty of soft tannins compliment the dry and sour fruits with a smooth long finish. No need to hurry up and drink the wine but currently a very enjoyable medium to full bodied Barolo that cries for a good preferably rare aged fillet. Tasted February 4, 2004.

Great stuff Jim, I noticed that no prices this time

Several things come to mind but best of all would be a grilled juicy steak spiced with worcestershire sauce. 34$ is about the same price you would pay in Israel and the wine already sold out in most wine shops. Don'y use a decanter but a good Bordeaux glass should allow you an axtra dimension as far as the nose is concerned. Would love to hear your opinion, Enjoy.

A Recommended Aged wine: Cabernet Sauvignon Yair Margalit 1993. [ 150$ ] This is the best Israeli wine of 1993 and probably the best choice of an Israeli aged wine. An Exciting nose full of dried fruits manely prunes, dates , dried figs and molasses. Very soft and mouth filling but already showing signs of heading down. When consuming the second, third glass etc. it is best to remain with the memory of the first glass. The following two bottles were identical although the cork was slightly in a better shape [Wrong choice of cork for this bottle]. If you have any in stock I suggest opening and drinking during this winter.

A Wonderful article Craig, I would bet that the Negroamaro you have tasted is the 2001 Promessa by Mark Shanon and Elvezia Sbalchiero. If not put it on your must try good value list. The recommended wines in the article are spot on namely the Don Antonio 2000 by Morgante. I was not ready for it when I first tried and what a massive surprise it was. [Apx. 60$ in the holly land and still I would have bought it]. Enjoyed very much.

Wines are easier to sell but raising prices is too risky for any of this very young wineries. The wineries are between 2 and 10 years old in a fast developing wine market. The recently published annual Wine Report ranked Flam as the Top Cab. as well and sales are expected to boom in the U.S. The 2001 vintage is selleing out quickly also due to the fact that 2002 was a problematic year in Israel. 2003 seems great with vineyards yielding sometimes 40% less than 2002. The wines I have already tasted seem very promising with an excellent start for the Sauvignon Blanc, a grape veriety that may ride the wave for a nice comeback.

I assume it is the 2000 vintage. Can you confirm?

The Israeli Wine competition “Eshkol Hazahav” [Golden Cluster] 2004. The results for the second annual Israeli wine competition were published in a special dinner held in Tel-Aviv on the 1st of February. Unlike the first year, this time, large industrial wineries did not participate. Participation was free, yet winning cost some 650 $ some wineries were not ready to pay. Five wine professionals and around 10 winemakers judged this competition. Following are the results: Red wines: Participating production 10,000 – 100,000 bottles a year: Amphora, Chateau Golan, Flam, Saslov, Alexander, Castel [petit castel] , Tsoraa, Soreq, Ben-Haim, Tavor - Meskha, Clos de Gat, HaMasek, Nahshon, Bazelet Hagolan. Cabernet Sauvignon: 1st place: Flam Reserve 2001 2nd place: Reserve Saslov 2000. 3rd place: Chateau Golan. Merlot: 1st Ilan, Tsora 2001. 2nd Chateau Golan 2001. 3rd Ben Haim 2001. Blends: 1st Eliad, chateau Golan 2001. 2nd Ayalon Clos De Gat 2001. 3rd Alexander Yama restaurant editin 2001 Under 15$ 1st Ca2bernet Aviv Saslov 2002 2nd Sea Lovers series Ben Haim 2002 3rd Sandro Alexander 2001. Red Wines: Participating production 2000-10,000 bottles a year: Yaffo, Chillag, Zauberman, Ben-Shoushan, Rosenbaum, Tavor Wines, Esence, Givon, Anatot, La Terra Promessa, Meiron, Gustavo and Jo, Agour, assi, Platter, Neot Smadar, Avidan. Cabernet Sauvignon: 1st Meiron 2000 2nd Givon 2002 3rd Yaffo 2002 Merlot 1st Zauberman 2001 2nd Sassi 2001 3rd Yaffo 2001 Blend: 1st Cabernet-Merlot Ben Shoushan 2001 2nd Cabernet Shiraz Platter 2001 3rd Notera Anatot 2001 Under 15 $ 1st Yaffo red 2002 2nd Merlot Anatot 2001 3rd Cabernet Rosenbaum 2001 White wines: Sauvignon Blanc: 1st Adama Tavor Meskha 2003 2nd Chateau Golan 2002 3rd Platter 2002 Chardonnay: 1st Clos de Gat 2002 2nd Reserve Salove 2002 3rd Yamma Alexander 2001 Dessert wines: 1st Muscat Ben-Haim 2003 2nd Gewruztraminer Reserve Saslove 2003-2003 3rd Muscat Caneli “Sun” Neot Smadar 2002 Port Style: 1st Marina Ben-Haim 2000 2nd Soreq 1998 3rd Port de Yaffo 2000 Comments: I don’t think different vintages should have been allowed in some years. For example, in the Sauvignon Blanc category. Tabor M. sent a wine from a much better vintage – 2003 that will only be released in a month’s time. In general, the tasting reflects the quality of the wines even though there were many faulty wines that allowed some fairly simple wines to earn a medal otherwise they would not have deserved. An excellent start for Clos de Gat's first two wines! Rankings well deserved.

I just finished judging a wine competition in Israel and I tell you there wasn't a single woman in sight - a pitty. I have learned from my wife that the sense of smell is stronger during pregnancy [ I had enough time to think about that whenever was ordered to take another shower as the particular smell of the After Shave or whatever was annoying to her, I ended donating three bottles of some expensive stuff]. Women also seem to have the ability to concentrate more [ Terry and Lyyn Pratchett took this point slightly further in theri book Truckers ] - very important in wine tasting.