Andre

January 28, 2004

Now that most Hungarian officials are sweating to prepare for May 1st [joining the E.U.] Several things are hapening in Tokaji.

I mentioned the seperation of Royal Tokaji from the Tokaji Renaissance group before. Now Royal Tokaji is for sale and negotiating with both local and foreign investors.

Some very nice dry and semi-dry wines are popping out here and there with little hope for big aszu wines although may be still too soon to tell.

Sepzy, one of the best winemakers in Tokaji, is finding no difficulties selling his work of art. Most of the dry wines he produced are already sold out [bourgogne this time ].

- TOKAJI IMPERIAL( THE ONE WHICH HAD THOSE UGLY BOTTLES IN THE SHAPE OF AN AMPHORA) IS UNDER POLICE INVESTIGATION( FALSIFIED WINES I UNDERSTAND) AND DE FACTO CLOSED .

IT SEEMS THAT THE STATE OWND COMPANY IS BEING INDEED PRIVATIZED.

Look out for this region and don't hesitate to stock up on fine vintages of Aszu.

January 23, 2004

Is it not great to have friends with real talent in the kitchen?

Join that with a company of people you appriciate and vise versa and great moments are born.

Sit back and enjoy the ride.

Gewurztraminer Spatlese Trocken, Wuzburger Stein Burgerspital Zum Hl. Geist 2000.

Served with Crab, avocado, and mango sandwich with pink peppercorn biscuits.

This unique wine from the area of Franken, expressed a very aromatic classic litchi nose with plenty of citrus fruit

Very dry in the mouth, citrus with a dominant mineral finish. Excellent acidity that lingers into the smooth mineral finish.

Rioja Conde de Valdemar Finca Alto de Cantabria 1999.

Served with Calamari stuffed with black rice risotto, fish reduction sauce.

The oak aged white Rioja was brown goldish in color with perfectly balanced rich oak flavors, mild acidity and slight citrus and rich spice finish. The Rioja seemed appropriate enough for the next dish: Soupe de poisson safranée, even though a dry sherry was intended for that one.

A small break came in the form of a salad of fennel and apples.

While preparing the meat we opened a brunello:

Brunello di Montalcino Gianni Brunelli 1996

High hopes for this traditional wine. I rarely say that on any wine but I enjoyed the oak aging more than the grapes, it seems. Memories? Perhaps.

A good Brunello, medium bodied with a dominating 2nd year oak aroma. The wine may last several more years but I doubt if any development may upgrade this one.

My hopes were too high although not the best vintage.

The wine was joined by the next masterpiece [ excuse my French ]:

Tournedos de boeuf, sauce madère; purée de pommes de terre avec

huile de truffes blanches.

Also joined by:

Paraduxx, “Super Napa” 1995.

A couple of mallards painted by Roger Blum on the label that says “Napa valley red wine”.

Deep red Bordeaux color.

Massive nose rich with red fruits, prunes, sweet molasses and some subtle spices.

This blend of zinfandel, cabernet and merlot from the Duckhorn vineyards [tasted some great SB from there] proved delicious from the moment of entry to the massive finish. Though still young with plenty of acidity and tannins for several years to come, I found the wine very well balanced and the matching with the butter-fried fillet was excellent.

The back label suggests pasta and grilled meats. I don’t thing they would be appropriate to the wines 8th year of age.

Great company, great food, great wines. A wonderful moment.

January 23, 2004

Last night a lovely Italian wine, but I don't know anything about the grape or style (maybe Craig can help). It says:
San Leonardo (1999)
Vallagarina
(Imbottigliato all'origine da Marchese Carlo Guerrieri Gonzaga Tenuta di San Leonardo Borghetto all'Adige • TN • Italia)

I know og only two wines produced by Tenuta San Leonardo:

Merlot di San Leonardo and San Leonardo [ blend ].

The San Leonardo is a blend of cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc with a long aging potential.

January 20, 2004

Give the Concha Y Toro Terrunyo a shot and skip the Sunrise.

Undurraga and Castilo de Mollina Reserva have both their own fairly simple versions though the latter might be slightly more interesting.

January 20, 2004

Heavy stuff, I guess there will always be dishonest people where big money roams.

Yesterday I had an insurance agent asking me about wine prices.

It seems several bottles his client was storing got wet. I guess he never heared of the Guy Saget experiment of storing wine at the bottom of the ocean....

January 19, 2004

Saturday I sat with my younger brother and managed through parts of the movie "Matrix reloaded". The seemed to have abused every single cliche' ruling over "Dumb and Dumber" and "Naked gun whatever...

One of the scenes shows Mr. Bad sipping a Hault Brion 1959 from glasses belonging to the era of my great grandparents. Now this was supposed to be a movie about the future...

The service at the restaurant you were describing was missing the point. You were not consulted with and this is not what a good service is about.

Thanks for sharing.

January 19, 2004

Thank you very much.

January 19, 2004

The pleasure of chocolate and a drink with chocolatier Efrat Hildesshaim

Open your mind and your heart will follow.

Stolen from the gods:

According to an ancient Maya legend, the seed of a cacao plant was stolen from the gods and brought to earth to serve humans for both medicinal and pleasure purposes. The following evening elevated our spirits to the holiest places known and unknown to mankind.

The evening began with an introduction to the world of chocolate that included a little bit of history, major cacao producing countries, and major European suppliers.

The tasting:

The chocolates tasted were freshly produced by super talented chocolatier Efrat Hildesheim except for the following three imported brands:

Starting of with a blind tasting of three dark chocolates: 70%, 70%, and 73%.

Callebaut 70%: Strong cacao powder aroma with hints of new oak dust.

In the mouth the chocolate starts on the dry less creamy side but develops complexity and texture after 4-5 seconds on the tongue to a well-rounded creaminess with a walnuts and Brazil nuts finish. This chocolate contained less cacao butter and more solids than the following two.

Froibe` 73%: Perhaps less aromatic yet more focused aroma of intense dark chocolate.

In the mouth the chocolate appeared sharp with a noticeable acidity that lingered very nicely in the aftertaste. Over all a very well balanced sharp chocolate with a nice lingering aftertaste yet not too complex.

Valrhona 70%: this Creolo based chocolate appeared with an intense dark chocolate aroma [yet less acidic than the Froibe’].

Smooth and creamy in the mouth [4-6 seconds to develop] with a slight orange peal aftertaste.

And now for the matching:

1. Milk chocolate with hot chili peppers served with Kir Royal.

The soft toffee and caramel texture gave little hints of the hot chili. On swallowing the chocolate the chili started signaling in the throat and stated to head back to the front of the mouth like ignited gunpowder ready to explode on a pastoral early spring afternoon. Cool! A sip of the Kir Royal [a blend of French Cremant and crème de Cassis from Dijon] proved a suitable match. The cassis added an extra dimension to the soft caramel texture portraying what a well-suited couple should be like. The law percentage of alcohol kept the hot flavors in place and bubbles helped maintain balance.

2. Lemon flavored white chocolate served with Lion’s Hill cape white, Swartland RSA2003.

The aroma of the chocolate was dominated by sweet vanilla and lemon peal. The chocolate was a bit too sweet for my taste and not something I would have picked for a cold winter evening anyway.

The 70% chenin Blanc and 30% Colombard dominated citrus and namely lemony flavors matched well the chocolate but left a somehow bitter aftertaste.

Matching white wine and chocolate proved extremely difficult though chocolatier Hildesheim enjoyed the combination.

3. Nutmeg and cinnamon flavored 73% bitter chocolate served with Cabernet sauvignon-Merlot Clos de Gat, Ayalon valley 2001.

The chocolate aroma is dominated by cacao, hints of nutmeg and cinnamon. The buttery texture is dominated by nutmeg with a cinnamon finish. An excellent balance between the spices and the chocolate flavors.

The wine chosen to match this chocolate is a combination of 70% cab. and 30% merlot aged for 18 months in new oak. The nose is still a bit closed and is dominated by the new wood. and a somehow dusty finish. In the mouth the wine is dominated by wood that matches the spiced dark chocolate perfectly. After 20 minutes the wine opens up to add to the combination some cassis, forest berries and a bit of pepper with a well balanced acidity. An excellent chocolate that married well this excellent wine.

4. 73% dark chocolate with minced allspice served with Cabernet Sauvignon Special Selection, Tsoraa 1995.

Again the combination of the Hildesheim chocolate and the spice proves to be a winner. A smooth buttery and very rich texture is complimented by the masterful addition of this very rich spice in a perfect balance. Tzoraa’s 8-year-old Special Selection Cabernet with its very large quantity of soft ripe tannins, rich texture of dried fruit and long smooth bitter-spicy finish proved a thrilling match. The hot weather Cabernet, aged for 26 month in second year oak and just 12% alcohol was a jackpot. What a way to elevate body and soul. A rich, complex, very well balanced, and exciting match.

5. 73% dark chocolate with minced roasted Colombian coffee served with Port style Miles, Miless winery, Ben Zimra vineyards, upper Galilee.

There isn’t a single doubt in my mind about the ability and very fine taste of the creator of this chocolate. A very complex peppery bouquet joined by the mildly sweet dark chocolate aroma. Smooth, buttery complex with a perfect balance between the rich chocolate texture and the heavily toasted Colombian coffee beans. Very consistent on the tongue. A feast! Miles’s slightly oxidized port like merlot provided just the amount of sweetness, texture and flavors to match Efrat’s masterpiece. The after taste of the port was a bit off and derived this matching from a perfect “10” score, still the clouds were way down there.

6. Orange praline served with Passion fruit liquor, Kibbutz Gaaton.

An extremely thin coating of a Ganache flavored with orange peal.

The nose portrayed dominant dark chocolate aromas with some orange blossom reflections.

The creamy texture of the ganache, complimented by the very thin layer of 73% dark chocolate, created a utopian moment that appealed to all senses simultaneously.

The passion fruit liquor added an extra flavor and finesse. Smooth

Entry, excellent balance and complexity and a smooth consistent

Exit with out the sense of extra cream on the palate some pralines

Might leave. I am sure that when the “gentleman” had his last boxing fight and Sara brightman and Andrea Bocceli sang: “time to say goodbye” he was thinking to himself: no more pain, I am in heaven. In Kurt Vennuguts words: “everything was beautiful and nothing hurt”.

7. Cardamom flavored pralines.

Again an extremely thin layer of dark chocolate envelops a soft ganache rich with very high quality green Cardamom. Nothing came to mind as far as wine or other alcoholic beverage matching came to mind [even though a top quality coffee liquor may have been in place], so I let it be.

Life was never sweeter. A beautiful smile spread on Efrat’s face revealing a perfect set of white teeth. “I am off with my friends now”,

“Can I join? “ I hoped

“We will call you.”

That night was exceptionally long.

Patience is what separates quality from the rest. Dark chocolate needs time to develop in the mouth as opposed to the more popular milk chocolate. Enhancing already complex top quality flavors must be done carefully in terms of balance, complimenting or contrast.

Thanks for reading.

January 16, 2004

Although we do develop habits during our very short lives, I think such decisions should be left to the "leader" of the tabel.

I have recently learned to appriciate women much more, after the birth of my second son. Once you encounter the real thing, a man should attend to the needs of the mother of his children. History had tought us to behave like gentelmen without crossing the thin line of distance, lack of communication and abusement.

If you are a good waiter. learn to read the tabel, learn to categorize your customers and make sure you follow their lead be it a food friendly Pinot Grigio or a realy expensive vulgar chardonnay.

January 15, 2004

Great!

Thanks for sharing.

January 14, 2004

I realy enjoy a lot of South African wine though all at the mid-range and up so far.

Following are some fairly priced recommendations:

Down to Earth, Villiera 2001

Chenin Blanc Villiera 2002

Gewuztraminer Villiera 2002

Malbec, Fairview 2000 / 2001

Pinotage, Berskloof 1999

Pinotage, Swartland 2000

Roodeberg, KWV, 1997.

the famous Goats do Roam, Fairview.

Boland Kelder Shiraz and Cabernet

Bovelei [ belongs to KWV ]

Two Oceans [ 2000, 2001]

......

January 10, 2004

Hi Jim and thanks again,

A couple of questions if I may:

I am not familiar with Asian wood, do you have any information about that?

Is the wine AOC ?

The local wine production law [1985] of the AOC Minervois requires a maximum of 40% Caignan.

I have enjoyed some quite interesting wines made entirely from Carignan like the Fitou, myself.

Also you describe a typical spicy minervois finish. Much of the spices that I have tasted in wines from this area come from Grenach and Mourvedre. Ofcourse there is the oak aging, any idea ?

January 9, 2004

Great news !

Thanks for the illuminating article. I never came across a primitivo that resembled a zinfandel. The Italian always seemed to me on the drier side less alcoholic with a somehow softer tannins.

Some Italian wines such as Rocca Alta do carry both names on the label but the higher quality wines usually stick to primitivo.

I have tasted some nice blends of Negroamaro and primitivo by Promesa. They provide a very smooth texture in wines like the Salento 2001.

cheers,

January 9, 2004

I will be looking out for these wines.

Thanks Jim.

January 8, 2004

Cuvee Irini 1996.
Since I have named this wine after my wife, I will simply say that I enjoy ots full body and complexity.
Permission to use this line, or a similar one, with my wife...?

:biggrin:

January 8, 2004

Following RG's request I thought of adding a thread:

If I am to generalize, Greece falls into three categories:

Sweet wines: The best wines are made in Samos and Santorini islands mostly from sun-dried grapes such as the assyrtico. A large percentage of the sweet wines is exported in bulks to eother parts of Europe mainly from Crete and Samos islands.

Dry wines: The best reds are made from Aghiorghitiko [ St. George], Mavrodaphne and Xynomavro. Cabernet Sauvignon, cabernet franc, Grenache, merlot, Petit Syrah, Refosco, Sangiovese and Syrah are joining in from other parts of Europe. The whites are dominated by assyrtico, malvasia, muscat [ wite and Alexandria], Robola, Savatiano and the more famous Chardonnay, Grenache Blanc, Ugni Blanc, Sauvignan Blanc, Semillion and Viognier.

The third category is flavored wines such as the Retsina.

Young Greek winemakers used to study in France and their influence is quite apparent. In recent years many of them can be found in Davis and Adelade. The international influence is flowing in in an unstopable rate. Parts of Greece are still guarded by the taditional attitude of respecting the elders and their knowledge, and partly by government controlled co-ops [ such as the ones controlling the island of Samos].

Several recommendations:

Evangelos Gerovassiliou's Domaine Carras - havy Bordeaux influence.

Achia Clauss, namely their Chateau.

Boutari has a wide selection. try the Nemea and Naussa Grande Reserve, Xynomavro and Aghiorghitiko.

The Rose' wines of Emery.

Chateau Lazaridi, namely their Magiko Vouno and their chateau wines.

Ktima Kosta Lazaridi [ founded by Kostas after seperating from his elder brother Nikos of Chateau Lazaridi in 1992 both located in the region of Drama]. The Amethystos is amongst their best.

Chateau Pegasos by Mrkovitis.

Samos Nectar is alwaysn a favorite of mine amongst the sweet Greek wines.

Chatea Semeli f the semeli winery.

Wines of Santorini by Sigalas.

Skouras are doing constantly good job though I did not come across anthing exceptional.

Always keep in mind that most of us need to accommodate to the less than popular wines. Extra Chard. or Cabernet my turn the wine to be more familiar and therefore tasty but unfortunately also more common.

January 7, 2004

The fact that two words may sound the same but may mean two different wines depending on the speakers location may result in confusion, amusement and sometimes insults.

If a customer asks for Pinot and the salesperson offers pineau may mean the end of a sale for those less careful.

Some of the wines I have had since X-Mass were:

France:

Chasagne Montrachet Premier Cru, 1995 Bouchard Pere et Fils. My bottle had already her share of the pie, opening another showed a problem wityh the whole shipment.

Chile:

Montes Alpha “M” 1999

Big on a world scale. Massive with a promissing future.

Italy:

Olmaia 1994

Still young and full of tannins. Hold your horses on this one.

South Africa:

Kanonkop Paul Saur 1989.

A beautifully complex and smooth wine yet the aftertaste shows this wine is clearly over the hill.

Australia

Shiraz Baily’s Block Shiraz 1920. 1997. A rather big name for this medium bodied well made shiraz. The wine lacked complexity to earn ant appriciation on my side.

California

Cab. Beringer Private Reserve 1994.

Spain

Roda 1, Rioja 1995.

One of my favorite Rioja wines. Just sit back and enjoy the ride especially if the wine is 1994 or 1995. One of the best expressions of Tempranillo in Rioja

Israel

Cuvee Irini 1996.

Since I have named this wine after my wife, I will simply say that I enjoy ots full body and complexity.

For Dessert I enjoyed some Tokaji Oreum Vinum 5 Puttonyos 1999 and some Pineau.

The Tokaji was a lingering pleasure of complexity and balance that kept evolving in the glass for as long as I sipped.

Following is a tasting of a highly recommended pineau:

Pineau des Charentes Moulin de Merienne Blanc.

Straw towards golden color.

The nose conveys dominant cognac aromas, raisins, figs, Spanish almonds, and shelled walnuts.

In the mouth the pineau is smooth on the entrance with tingling acidity and dominant alcohol in the back and heavy damp oak bouquet.

Medium bodied smooth aftertaste with dominant nutty flavors.

The Rubis vesion :

Pineau des Chaentes Moulin de Merienne Rubis.

Amber reddish towards brownish color

Port nose, creamy toffee and caramel with little complexity.

Not my cup of tea. Too simillar to port flavors yet doen not contain the complexity of a good port.

Both versions had been aged 5 years in oak.

Craig,

Thank you for an excellent management of this forum and happy new year to all.

January 7, 2004

Thank tou for the great TNs,

A point well taken on the Roero Arneis matching with the salad. A pinot bianco such as the Dirada woul have probably been a better match, yet I am not sure I would have missed the Corregia experience.

I was excited to read about the 1995 Brancaia. It seems I had tried it when I was not quite ready for the new style invading Tuscany.

The fact that wizard -winemaker Dr. Carlo Ferrini, an advisor to La Brancaia since 1990, supports them is a credit by itself.

I will try the wines again soon.

Thanks for sharing.

January 6, 2004

Thanks for the TN's,

I only tried the Classic Clare Shiraz. and I would not recommend opening anything younger than the 1997.

Too massive for most foods.

January 5, 2004

I would suggest Sartori and Castellani for the products you need.

Both companies had been delivering consistantly good quality at moderate prices.

January 3, 2004

Try these links:

SELECTED ESTATES OF EUROPE Ltd

620 CONCORD AVENUE - MAMARONECK, NY 10543

Selectedestates@Aol.com - www.selectedestates.com

· ADMIRALTY BEVERAGE Co.

COLUMBIA DISTR. COMPANY - 6840 NORTH CUTTER CIRCLE - PORTLAND, OR 97217

hr@columbia-dist.com - www.columbia-dist.com

· DIONYSOS IMPORT INC.

8535-A & B TERMINAL ROAD LORTON, VA 22079

dionysos@hotmail.com

As a private wine shop you have the flexibility which the big boys don't. This is your biggest advantage as well as their biggest weakness.

Always play with a smile....I am pretty sure there will be many who would love to back you up if they regard you as an important showcase.

It's a huge wine world out there.....

January 3, 2004

I would recommend two good value for money:

Capitel San Rocco by Tedeschi. Try to get the 1999 / 2000

Valpolicella Superiore Metodo Ripasso Sagramoso 2000 by Pasqua.

If the Sagramoso would write the Metodo Ripasso any smaller, they would have to supply magnifying glass with the wine.

I reallylike what Tedeschi had been doing on their 1999 and 2000 vintage. Their Valpolicella 2000 is beautiful.

January 2, 2004

I will join Carema in recommending this wine.

The biggest advantage is that you don't need 5 years for it to open up like the Barbaresco [ Currently the 1997 is quite ready for drinking ] but as suggested the wine does need about 10 to 20 minutes in the glass to start opening up.

The 2000 might even be a friendlier version but with a bit of patience you are bound to enjoy the 2001 as well.

Langhe Nebiolo Produtori del Barbarecso 2001

A good value for the money Nabiolo, dry, earthy and tasty.

January 2, 2004

Reminds me of Eddie Murphie's Raw: " Brut, by Faberge'"

January 2, 2004

I would vote Portugal while concentating on the dry whites and reds.

Alentejo, Bairrada, and Dao wine regions mostly.

Also Greek wines mostly from the northern part and some from the islands.

I don't think a wine professional can underrate German wine production in general.

Riesling, Silvaner and their offsprong Muller-Thurgeau all produce very interesting wines and Germany is gifted with many excellent winemakers.

Quoting from a sign above the office of an Australian winemaker: "No wood no good" simply does not apply in Germany, Greece nor portugal.

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